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SAILING DIRECTIONS
FOR
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH
AMERICA.
FaceSM
SAN JUAH BXL SUE.
Scale of 1000 Vsu-as
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2188 Yarns equal 1
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London, J.Immv,2O2 Mtwries 1863.
SAILING DIRECTIONS
FOR
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH
AMERICA.
EMBRACING
THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA, CALIFORNIA,
OREGON, FUCA STRAIT, PUGET SOUND, VANCOUVER ISLAND,
AND THE ISLANDS AND ROCKS
OFF THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA AND CALIFORNIA.
WITH AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING VARIOUS REMARKS ON THE WINDS, TIDES, CURRENTS, &c.
CAREFULLY COMPILED
FROM THE MOST RECENT SURVEYS MADE BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH,
UNITED STATES, SPANISH, AND FRENCH GOVERNMENTS.
LONDON:
JAMES IMRAY, 102, MINORIES.
Z,
X
ERRATA.
Page Line from top. Line from bottom. For Read
6 10 delete " after life.
7 10 insert " after point.
29 24 Gulf of Fonesca Gulf of Fonseca.
jog 4 River Toutonnis River Toutounis.
163 17 & 18 so much more so so much so.
Bancroft
PREFACE
THE rapid development of the resources of California and Oregon, and
the increase of commerce with the countries on the sea-board of Central
America, have had the effect of raising into importance many ports
which, but a few years since, afforded only an occasional shelter to
whalers. Hitherto, there has been but little call for a work of this
nature, but as the countries of Western America are daily becoming of more
commercial value, and the ports are visited less as harbours of occasional
shelter than as places of trade, a work affording some information to the
seaman, however scanty, of the ports he is about to visit, has become
necessary. In the compilation of this work considerable difficulty has
been experienced, from the want of information that could be considered
authentic and trustworthy, no complete survey having yet been made of
the West Coast of North America, although detached portions of it have
been from time to time examined by the various expeditions sent out
for that purpose by the governments of Great Britain, the United States,
France, and Spain. From the works resulting from these examinations we
have obtained much information, although it cannot in every case be
considered so satisfactory as we might wish, still, through their means, we
have, to some extent, become acquainted with many parts of which we
were previously in entire ignorance ; we have also embodied much
private information with the object of making the work as complete and
serviceable as possible. The information thus brought together, it will
be seen, cannot be connected so well as might be desired, seeing that
IV PREFACE.
each observer had either a specific portion of coast to examine, or only
took a general survey of it without entering into details. All the infor-
mation, however, which might be useful to the mariner has been collec-
ted together, and it only remains for us to add that we shall avail our-
selves, in future editions, of any hydrographical information that may
tend to the improvement of this work, and shall always thankfully
receive communications from correspondents which may contribute to its
future usefulness.
Several of the ports of Central America have been examined by Sir
Edward Belcher, from whose work we have obtained many remarks ;
and a survey of the coasts of California and Oregon is now in progress, by
order of the United States Government, the completion of which will
tend still further to improve our knowledge of these countries. Fuca
Strait, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Sound, have been so well examined by
Vancouver, Commander Wilkes, Captain Kellett, and others, that we
believe but little remains to add to our acquaintance with these extensive
inland waters. It is also right to mention that the pages of the Nautical
Magazine have materially assisted us in the completion of the work.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA, &c. . ... 1
General Remarks, 1 ; Gulf of Panama, 8 ; Gulf of San Miguel, Bay of
Panama, 9 ; Quibo or Coiba Island, 12 ; Hicarons, 13 ; Bahia Honda,
Pueblo Nuevo, 15 ; Contreras Islands, Secas Islands, &c., 16 ; Gulf of
Dulce, Gulf of Nicoya, Port Herradura, 17 ; Calderas Bluff, Arenas
Point, Cape Blanco, 18 ; Nigretas Islands, 19 j Gulf of Papagayo, Port
Culebra, 21 ; Tomas and Salinas Bays, 23 ; Port San Juan, 24 ; Realejo,
25 ; Gulf of Fonseca or Conchagua, 29 ; Conchagua or San Carlos de la
Union, Port Libertad, 31 ; Sonsonate Road, 32 ; Port Istapa or Ystapa,
Gulf of Techuantepec, 34 ; Santa Cruz, Island Tangolatangola, 35 ; Bay
of Bamba, 37 ; Bay of Rosario, 39 ; Acapulco, 41 ; Sihuatanejo or
Chequetan, 44 ; Point and River Tejupan, Manzanilla Port, Cape
Corrientes, 46 ; Las Tres Marias, Prince George's Island, 48 ; San Bias,
50 ; Town of Tepic, 52 ; General Remarks on the Coast, 53 ; Mazatlan,
59 ; Guaymas, 62.
COAST OF CALIFORNIA ... . .65
General Remarks, 65 ; Bay of La Paz, Mission of Loretto, 68 ; La Bahia
Escondida, 69 ; Moleje Bay, 70 ; Rio Colorado, 72 ; Cape St. Lucas, 74 ;
Magdalena Bay, 75; San Bartholomew, 79; Cedros Island, Playa
Maria Bay, San Quentin, 80 ; San Diego, 81 ; San Juan, 84 j Santa
Barbara, 85 ; Bay of San Pedro, 87 ; Point Conception, 88 ; Bays of St.
Luis Obispo and Esteros, 89 ; Carmel Bay, Monterey Bay, 91 ; Direc-
tions for Monterey Bay, 93 ; San Francisco, 97 ; Bay of San Pablo, 100 ;
Sausalito or Whaler's Harbour, Bay of Sooson, 101 ; Capt. Beechey's direc-
tions for Harbour of San Francisco, 102 ; Remarks by Capt. John Hall on
Harbour of San Francisco, 107 ; Richardson's Remarks on Harbour of San
Francisco, 108 ; Buoys in the Bay of San Francisco, 109 ; Point de los
Reyes, 110; Farallones, 111 ; Bodega Bay, 112; Cape Mendocino, 115 ;
Humboldt Bay, 116; Trinidad Bay, 117; Port St. George, 120.
COAST OF OREGON . . . . . . . .122
General Remarks, 122; River Toutounis or Rogue's River, Cape Orford
or Blanco, Cape Gregory or Arago, 123; Cape Perpetua, 124; Cape
Lookout, Columbia River, 124 ; Cape Disappointment, 126 ; Point
Adams, 127 ; Astoria, Fort Vancouver, 128 ; Directions for Columbia
River, 131; Shoalwater Bay, &c., 136; Gray's Harbour, 137; Cape
Grenville, 139 ; Cape Classet, Tatooche Islets, 140.
IV CONTENTS.
PAGB.
FUCA STRAIT AND PUOKT SOUND ...... M*J
Fuca Strait, 142; Cape Classet, Neeali Bay, 144; Callam Bay, 146; Cres-
cent Bay, 147; Point Angelos, 148; Port Angelos, 149; Durigeness Bay,
151 ; Budd's Harbour, Port Discovery, 154 ; Port San Juan, 157 ; Sooke
Inlet, Pedder Bay, Royal Bay, 158 ; Esquimalt Harbour, Victoria Har-
bour, 159; Sailing Directions, 160; Admiralty Inlet, Port Townsend,
163; Port Orchard, 165; Puget Sound, 166; Nisqually, 167; Case Inlet,
Mounts Rainier and St. Helen's, Hood's Canal, 169 ; Whidbey Island,
171 ; Bonilla Island, Fidalgo Island, 172 ; Possession Sound, Camano
Island, PennCove, 173; Haro and Rosario Straits, 175; Bellingliam arid
PadillaBays, Birch Bay, 176.
VANCOUVER ISLAND ... ... 178
Geneneral Remarks, 178 ; Nitinat Sound, Clayoquot Sound, 180 ; Nootka
Sound, 181; Friendly Cove, 182; Woody Point, Cape Scott, 184; Beaver
Harbour, 185.
ISLANDS AND ROCKS OFF THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA AND CALI-
FORNIA ... ... . 186
Cocos Island, 186; Chatham Bay, 188; Wafer Bay, 189; Malpelo Island,
Gallego Island, 190 ; Clipperton Rock, 191 ; Revillagigedo Islands, 193;
St. Benedicto Island, Roca Partida, 194 ; Clarion Island, Alijos Rocks,
Guadaloupe Island, 195.
APPENDIX,
Gulf of Tehuantepec .... . 197
Winds in the Pacific ........ 202
West Coast of Mexico . . . . . . . .211
Passages to and from various Ports in the Pacific . . ... 222
Monterey to the Columbia River ...... 226
Bearings and Distances, with the variation of the Compass, from San Francisco
to Monterey, and from San Francisco to the Columbia River . . 231
SAILING DIRECTIONS
FOR THE
WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.
%* THE BEARINGS ARE ALL BY COMPASS, UNLESS WHEN OTHERWISE EX-
PRESSED. THE SOUNDINGS ARE REDUCED TO THE LEVEL OF Low WATER,
SPRING TIDES.
IT HAS RECENTLY BEEN ORDERED BY THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OP THE
ADMIRALTY, THAT THE WORD " PORT" is TO BE USED INSTEAD OF THE
WORD "LARBOARD," IN ALL H. M. VESSELS, IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE
SIMILARITY EXISTING BETWEEN THE WORDS LARBOARD AND STARBOARD.
THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA, &c.
BEFORE giving a nautical description of the Bays and Harbours of
Central America, a few remarks on the geography and natural features
of the country, will not be considered out of place.
CENTRAL AMERICA comprehends all the territory lying between
Mexico on the north, and the Isthmus of Darien, or Panama, on the
south. Its entire length is 1,000 miles, and its breadth varies from
upwards of 100 miles to 300 ; giving an area of 200,000 square miles,
or more than twice the extent of Great Britain. Situated in the torrid
zone, between 8° and 18° N. latitude, and 80° and 90° W. longitude,
it at once separates the Atlantic from the Pacific Ocean, and unites
the continents of North and. South America ; a position as important
commercially, as it is geographically remarkable and unique.
It includes the fine independent states of Guatemala, Salvador,
Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica ; and also British Honduras, and
the Mosquito Shore. It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the
west and south by the Pacific ; and on the east by the Caribbean Sea,
and the Bay of Honduras.
2 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present
time, with the ' Intendencias,' as they existed under Spanish Colonial
rule. Their boundaries are pretty clearly defined, and vary but little.
They are subdivided into Provinces, Departments, and Districts; the
latter applying to the less peopled, though often extensive tracts,
covered with almost impenetrable forests.
The state of Guatemala is by far the most extensive of the five. It
includes a considerable and populous highland district to the north,
named ' Los Altos de Quesaltenango ;' and to the eastward, vast
territories, such as those of Vera Paz and El Peten, which are but
thinly inhabited. Altogether it occupies full one-third of the whole
country. It has also the largest population, and far surpasses the other
states in importance. Its growing trade is even now considerable. It
is principally carried on with the English. The chief export, which is
cochineal, amounted in 1846 to 9,037 " surrones," or bales of 150 Ibs.
each, valued at £211,804 13s. 9d.
The state of Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate
is hot, but more healthy than that of the eastern shores — perhaps because
the land is better cleared and cultivated. The chief product of this
state is indigo, which used to be extensively cultivated and at one
time rivalled, in the number of seroons exported, the cochineal of
Guatemala. But so much has it diminished, that in 1846 the number
of bales exported did not exceed 1,500, in value about £10,000. The
city of San Salvador, its capital, is only a few miles distant from the
Pacific Ocean. Its commerce still surpasses that of most towns in
Central America. And its political influence, taking as it does the lead
in all liberal movements, is considerable. During a certain period it
was the seat of the Federal Government, and, like Washington, it had
at that time a certain territory around the city, distinguished as the
Federal District.
The state of Honduras takes its name from the Bay of Honduras,
signifying depths, which forms its northern boundary. The first navi-
gators so denominated it, because they with difficulty obtained any
soundings in it. The surface of the ground is in this state even more
generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in com-
parison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still com-
prises vast districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by wild Indians.
The climate, like that of the other states, is varied, being generally
temperate in the interior, which is notable for its mines, and hot near
the coasts, which abound with rivers, from the banks of which much
mahogany and sarsaparilla are taken. Comayagua, the capital, is still
a city of some importance, though said to have been much more so
formerly. This state possesses two sea-port towns, Truxillo and Omoa,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 3
which were active as military and commercial depots of Spain, but they
are now fallen into comparative decay.
The state of Nicaragua is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubri-
ous ; but, notwithstanding it possesses several advantages over Hon-
duras, it is but little more populous. This may partly be accounted
for by the absence of any leading branch of industry, or any considerable
activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent civil wars. In
a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so. The very
roads, in some parts, sound hollow under the hoofs of the mules or horses.
Leon, the capital, and Granada are large cities, and once enjoyed great
wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central
America, they have suffered much from crime and consequent internal
disorganization, as well as from civil wars, political commotions, and
misrule. These cities, from the highest rank in repute and influence,
are now reduced to little better than heaps of ruins, scantily inhabited,
and, where best, affording abundant evidence of both earlier and more
recent devastations. Leon, on the Lake of Managua, often called the
Lake of Leon, is said to have contained at one time 32,000 people. It
is now reduced to less than half that number. Granada may still have
about 13,000 inhabitants, It is beautifully situated on the borders of
the Lake of Nicaragua. The town of Nicaragua, about 36 miles south-
east of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name
to the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated
on its banks, not far from the populous island of Ometepe, which is in
the lake, and contains an active volcano. Great interest at present
attaches to this state and its waters, in connection with the long formed
and often talked-of project of connecting the two oceans at this point,
which is now about to be put to the test of experiment, if not actually
to be realized.
The Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest
degree of tranquillity and political prosperity, is Costa Rica. Its isolated
position on the narrower part of the Isthmus, making communication
with the other states difficult, has preserved it in a great measure from
participating in the wars that have desolated the rest of the country : a
circumstance which, conjointly with a great accession of commercial
vigour, arising out of the successful cultivation of coffee, has given it of
late an impulse unknown to the sister states. More than 70,000
quintals (cwt.) of coffee, worth 7i dollars the quintal in the country,
(making a total of £105,000), is now annually exported. While other
large cities are decaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into im-
portance within a very few years. It already numbers upwards of
20,000 inhabitants. Cartago, the former capital, and two other towns
of some magnitude (Heridia and Alajuela), occupy, with the modern
4 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the Isthmus.
These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean,
include almost the entire population of this compact and thriving
state.
In lat. 14° 46' N. and long. 91° 46' W. is Guatemala la Nueva, or the
the new city, so named because the inhabitants abandoned the old city
on account of earthquakes, which is the present capital, and may ' on
many accounts be considered as the principal town in Central America.
It is situated on one of the elevated plateaux of the main Cordillera,
known as * Los Llanos de las Vacas,' or the valley of ' Harmita.'
This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which
stand prominent the two volcanoes of the Antigua, ' De Angua,' and
' De Fuego,' and a third called ' El Yolcan de Pacaya,' which is
scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 5,000 feet
above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The
climate, though considered inferior to that of La Antigua, is mild and
salubrious. The thermometer rarely rises above 70°, and still more
rarely descends below 64°. The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly
Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and pure Creole-Spaniards, the
unmixed descendants of. Spanish colonists, is estimated at 36,000 or
40,000 ; and in importance, wealth, and beauty, it is second, in Spanish
America, only to the city of Mexico.
The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose
surplus waters descend to the Atlantic by the Rio San Juan del Norte.
It is an inland sea, larger than the island of Jamaica, being 180 miles
long from east to west, and nearly 100 broad from north to south, and
1 50 Spanish leagues in circumference. In many places the water is
10 to 15 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows.
It contains a small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and
populous island, named Ometepe, there is a volcano. This lake is also
connected with that called Managua, itself no inconsiderable body of
water. The shores of these magnificent waters, which are likely to
afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, and
as salubrious as they are beautiful. It is from the Lake of Nicaragua
that the canal is proposed to be cut, connecting the lake with the port
of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific.
Not far from the western or Pacific coast, the country is traversed
from north-west to south-east by a continuous cordillera or unbroken
chain of mountains, unbroken at least as far as the Lake of Nicaragua,
which are covered with diversified vegetation. This forms a kind of
connecting chain between the Rocky Mountains of the north, and the
Andes of the South American continent. Some of the loftiest summits
are 17,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the 'Sierra
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. &
Madre,' the main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and some-
times extend to the sea-shore.
At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of
the mountains, are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many
natural terraces, some of them of great extent, and all delightfully
temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regions especially seem to
invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand. They
constitute a distinguishing feature of this and some neighbouring
countries. But no one of those countries, and probably no part of the
earth, presents a greater diversity of level on a surface of equal extent
than does Central America ; consequently, no country possesses such
variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds of
productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabi-
tant of a tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual
snows.
Most of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The
rocks are of granite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formations and
ejections predominate. Not less than thirty volcanic vents are said to
be still in activity. The traces of remote, as well as recent earthquakes
are clearly discernible in the fissures and ravines that everywhere
abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, beds of lava, scoriae, vitrified,
charred, and pumice stones, together with hot and sulphureous springs,
all mark it as the most volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earth-
quakes, generally slight, are periodically felt at the opening and closing
of the wet season.
The productions of Central America are numerous. Abundant
materials for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee,
sugar-cane, arrow-root, ginger, tobacco, and even silk-worms, though
but lately imported; but especially in * anil ' (indigo), and 'grana'
(cochineal), which, because most lucrative, absorb almost all the attention
of the planter. Other marketable productions are not wanting; but
both known and unknown sources of wealth decay in the forests, or lie
hidden beneath the soil. But, besides these, the more temperate regions
yield all, or nearly all, the productions which are raised in Europe.
Wheat and barley are cultivated sometimes by the side of the sugar-
cane, on the elevated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns are
supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ;
so that, at all seasons, the green pea, the cauliflower, and cos-lettuce, are
sold along with the Avocato-pear, sweet potato, olive, capsicum, or
chillies, and many other productions of opposite climates, less delicate,
perhaps, but more common and useful. Of edible fruits, those most
common are the banana, pine-apple, orange, sweet lemon, lime, shaddock,
forbidden fruit, water-melon, musk-melon, sapote, mango, guava, fig,
6
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
tamarind, pomegranate, granadilla (fruit of the passion flower), sea-
grape, papia, mammae, star and custard-apples, and cocoa, cashew, and
ground nuts. There are said to be in all " more than forty genera,"
including, probably, those introduced from Europe, such as the apple,
pear, quince, cherry, &c., which, though they are found to thrive, are
little appreciated, and none of any sort can be said to be cultivated with
care. The same remark applies, though with frequent exceptions, to
garden flowers, which are still more varied.
It has been well observed by Mr. Frederick Crowe, that " The
precious metals of Central America, together with quicksilver, copper,
lead, iron, talc, litharge, and most other minerals that are in use, only
await the labour and ingenuity of man to extract them from the bowels
of the earth, and convert them into objects of convenience and beauty ;
and seams of coal, ochre, gypsum, sal-ammoniac, and wells of naptha,
are also ready to yield their valuable stores. Jasper, opal, and other
precious stones are also found ; and pearl fisheries have long existed
upon the coasts. In fine, there is no lack of any thing that nature can
bestow to sustain, to satisfy, and to delight. So abundant are the
necessaries of life that none need want : so profuse are the bounties of
nature that they are suffered to decay through neglect. The peach-tree
and the rose run wild on the borders of the orange grove, whose fruits
and flowers are alike simultaneous and perennial ; and the pine-apple,
the mango, and the water-melon are preferred to the almond, the olive,
and the grape. Such is the nature of the soil, that the exuberance of
that wealth which rots upon its surface in the less populous parts of
Central America, would amply clothe and satisfy with bread thousands
of the sons of want who fill our streets and unions, dispelling that
squalid wretchedness which penury and destitution have produced, and
mitigating some of the woes which embitter the lot of so many of our
fellow-countrymen. It may be that the time is not far distant when
many such will seek these fruitful shores, and under wise direction,
not only benefit themselves, but, while redeeming fertile valleys and
plains from desolation, greatly bless the timid natives with higher arts
of life."
Lying between the parallels of 10° to 18°, and almost insular as to
any influence of the continent on its temperature, the climate of the
coasts and lowlands is hot and humid. That of the interior varies with
the altitude, and is generally mild, equable, and salubrious. The two
seasons, aptly designated the " wet " and the " dry," are well defined.
They may be said equally to divide the year, though they vary consider-
ably in different districts. The rains, everywhere copious, are more
continual in some parts, and the drought is more severe in others, but
the dry season is nowhere uninterrupted by refreshing showers, and the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 7
wet is everywhere relieved by an interval of dry weather, which percep-
tibly separates " the former " from " the latter rain."
In the highlands of the interior, the seasons are singularly regular.
The dry weather commences about the close of October, and terminates
on the 12th or 13th of May, rarely varying even a few hours. It is
most frequently on the 12th that " the windows of heaven are opened."
The sky is then suddenly obscured with thick clouds, which burst simul-
taneously, often accompanied with thunder, and sometimes with hail.
This is confined to the afternoon, and returns on the following days, or
perhaps for successive weeks, at the same hour, or a little later. During
the whole of the wet season, which is by far the most agreeable, the
forenoon is almost invariably cloudless, and the atmosphere clear, elastic,
and balmy. The rains are often confined to the evening and night, or to
the night hours only. During the dry season, the mornings and evenings
are often so cool and bracing as to predispose to active exercise, though
fires are never resorted to. Through the day the sky is seldom obscured,
and light clouds only are to be seen sweeping rapidly along the plains
during the short twilight that ushers in the equinoctial day, thence they
rise and hang in clusters round the tops of the mountains till the sun has
gathered strength to dispel them : in the evening they return to attend
its setting, and add inimitable beauty to the gorgeous scene. At all
seasons the entire disc of the moon is distinctly visible through all its
phases, but now it shines with such uninterrupted clearness, as entirely
to supersede, when above the horizon, the necessity of artificially lighting
the streets ; and even in the absence of the ruler of the night, the bril-
liancy of the stars dispels all gloom. In some districts on the eastern
coasts, through local influences, it rains more or less all the year ; which,
however, adapts them for the growth of certain vegetable productions ;
while the districts where the dry weather lasts the longest are alone suit-
able for the cultivation of others. On the more elevated plains, such as
those of Quesaltenango, in the department of Los Altos, the heat is never
so great as during the summer months in England ; and though snow is
said sometimes to fall in December and January, it immediately dissolves,
and the thermometer never descends so low as the freezing point.
NAUTICAL REMARKS. — Ships bound from Cape Horn to the ports in
Central America, steer to the northward, generally hauling towards the
land, when they have reached the parallel of the Islands of Juan Fer-
nandez and Masafuera ; they then steer according to the direction of the
coast, with the prevailing winds from the S. to S.E., and without
following too strictly any given rules as to distance from the land, custom,
however, recommends to keep the land just in sight as the breeze is gene-
rally brisker, and steadier than at a greater distance off. Nevertheless,
Captain Marie, of Bordeaux, states that he has sailed along the coast at
8 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
a distance of from 15 to 25 leagues, running at a rate of five to six miles
an hour, and that even at 60 leagues from the land, he had met with
steadier winds from the S.S.E. than close in-shore, which were less sub-
ject to calms, being not so much under the influence of the land and sea
breezes.
In the winter season, say from May to October, it is better to keep
at the greater distance from the land, because in that season, particularly
near the coasts of Chili and Peru, comprised between the parallels of Val-
paraiso and Lima, there are often light northerly breezes, accompanied
with hazy weather and a heavy swell. As you approach the equator the
fog and swell of the sea gradually subsides, and is succeeded by light sea
breezes and clear weather.
If bound to Acapulco or the ports on that part of the coast, and being,
unprovided with good instruments, it is best not to make for the port to
which you may be bound, because you might be carried to the westward,
and thus be uncertain of your true position, but to run for the Island of
Cocos, which, according to the observations of Captain Sir E. Belcher,
R.N., is in lat. 5° S3' N. and long. 86° 58' 22" W., in order to obtain
your true position, and start from a well ascertained point of de-
parture.
If bound to the Gulf of Nicoya, it is advisable to steer for Cape Blanco,
the western side of the entrance, taking care to keep to the eastward of
it. If bound to Realejo, or to the ports to the westward of that river, a
course should be shaped for the volcano of Yiego, because it is the most
conspicuous object on the coast, and is to windward of every port situated
to the westward of the Gulf of Fonseca. This volcano is the most re-
markable mountain in Central America ; its form is that of an erect
cone, hilly towards its summit, having its upper base, or rather its crater,
inclined, being less elevated towards the east than towards the west.
Yiego may generally be known by several hillocks about it, but which
are of less altitude.
Having premised these few introductory remarks we will begin the
description of the coast, commencing with the Gulf of Panama.
GULF OF PANAMA. — The Gulf of Panama is a spacious bay, about
130 miles wide at the entrance, and extending about the same distance to
the northward, the coasts trending in a semicircular direction. The western
point of the gulf is called Point Mala, and the eastern, Point Garachine.
Its shores form two bays, the eastern of which, called the Bay of San
Miguel, is to the northward of Point Garachine, and the western, the
Bay of Parita, is to the northward of Point Mala. In the north-eastern
part of the gulf is a cluster of islets, named the Columbia Islands, for-
merly called the Pearl Islands, from the pearls which are found there,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 9
the largest of which is the Isla del Rey ; there are also some islands off
the city of Panama, which afford some protection to the harbour. The
soundings over the gulf are generally pretty deep, shoaling gradually as
you advance, from 50 and 80 fathoms at the entrance.
GULF OF SAN MIGUEL.— The southern point of the Gulf of San
Miguel, called Point Garachine, is high and barren, and has a rock above
water off it, called El Caynelo, within which a good passage is said to
exist. Within the point is a cluster of houses called the Village, and
about three miles beyond it is the River Sambu. The land to the east-
ward of the point becomes low and swampy, and bends round to the
north-eastward, forming the Gulf of San Miguel, the water in which
shoals gradually as you approach the shore.
The Gulf of San Miguel is about 1 1 miles wide at the entrance, but
becomes contracted as you advance within it by the Points of Patino and
Lorenzo, which are only four miles apart ; here, on the port side, will be
seen the Island Iguana, to the northward of which the gulf opens, and
receives the Rivers Congo, Sucio, Estero, and Cupunati. A long neck
of land here runs out to the southward, beyond which the channel be-
comes narrower, and has several rocks and islands within it; to the
northward is a large island, which divides it into two passages ; that to
the northward has the deeper water, but that to the southward, or Boca
Chica, is narrower, and free from dangers. Having passed these straits
the channel runs in a S.E. & Easterly direction, towards the River Tuyra,
where, in mid-channel, there is a narrow and long sandy island, having a
passage on each side ; that to the south-westward has the deeper water,
and is the broadest ; the River Tuyra then winds south-eastward to the
little town of Santa Maria, up to which it is navigable, dividing near
this town into two branches, one of which continues to the southward,
taking its rise near the Cordilerras, and receiving numerous petty streams
in its way, some of which serve to support a communication with the
Gulf of Darien. The other branch extends N.W. by N., so far as the
mountains which run along the northern part of the province of Darien ;
this is called the River Chuqunaque, and is navigable by canoes. There
is also another branch, dividing from the north-eastern part of the gulf,
called the River Savanas, which runs up the country about N.N.W., 12
or 13 miles to Fort del Principe. The country about these rivers is
generally low, woody, uncultivated, and unhealthy.
BAY OF PANAMA. — From the northern point of the Gulf of St.
Miguel, or Point Brava, which is moderately high, the land becomes low
and sandy all the way to Panama, with a woody shore, in which are se-
veral small streams ; some rocky islands lie off it, but the usual passage
is to the westward and southward of them all. The passage between the
shore and the Archipelago de las Perlas is 20 miles wide, with from 15
10 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
to 22 fathoms water, mid-channel. The first islet met with is the Far-
rallon Ingles, bearing from Point Brava about N. by W. J W., distant
nearly three leagues ; it is a barren rock, lying a mile off the shore.
Eight and a half miles N.W. by "W. from the Farrallon is the Pajaros,
two low rocky islets, 2^ miles from shore ; and, in almost the same
direction, 7i miles further, is Manjue, or Tiger Island, which is con-
nected to some small islets near the land by a ridge of sand. Within
these islands, and close to the land, are some small islands called the
Majaquey, between which and the shore are two fathoms water, and a
passage for boats, &c. W. by N. from Tiger Island, 5| miles, and S.W.
from Majaquey, distant two leagues, lies El Pelado, a small island, near
which is 12 fathoms water ; the passage between El Pelado and Tiger
Island, and also between Tiger Island and Majaquey, is good, and free
from danger, with a bottom of mud, and the depth from 12 to 4 fathoms,
decreasing toward the latter island. Opposite to this part, the coast is
somewhat elevated inland, and the Sierras de Manjue become conspi-
cuous ; from hence to the westward, a broad sand bank runs along the
coast, the water being shallow, all the way, to the Island Chepillo.
This island is low, and lies directly before the entrance of the River
Chepo, which is a deep and rapid river, about a mile broad, taking its
rise in the lofty mountains, about five leagues distant from the Gulf of
St. Bias ; by means of this river, a communication is carried on between
the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The town of Chepo is four miles up
the river ; but the mouth of the river is, at present, choaked up with
sands, and not navigable for ships. W. by N., eight leagues from the
Island Chepillo, is the city of Panama.
PANAMA.
Panama is a large and somewhat irregularly built town, having its
principal streets extending, from sea to sea, across the peninsula on
which it is built. It is represented to be now in a very ruinous con-
dition. The buildings, of stone, are generally substantial, and the larger
houses have courts or patios. It has a beautiful cathedral, five or six
convents, and a college. The harbour is protected by a number of
islands, a short distance from the mainland, and it is said that there is
anchorage under all of them. The commerce consists in the exportation
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 11
of the produce of the country to Lima and Guayaquil, and there is also
intercourse with Jamaica, gold and silver being frequently sent by way
of Panama to England. By recent observations, the north-east portion of
the town is considered to be in lat. 8° 56' 56" N. and long. 79° 3 V 1 2" W.
It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 23m.,
and the greatest rise of tide is 22 feet.
Ledges of rocks extend some distance all round the peninsula on which
the town is built, outside of which shoal water of from 3 to 15 feet ex-
tends about a mile, which is succeeded by some rocky patches, called the
Sulphur and Danaide Rocks, lying from 1^ to 2 % miles from the town.
The rocks furthest from the town are the Danaide Patches of 2% fathoms,
having 3^ to 5 fathoms all round them, which may be cleared on the
south side by bringing the south steeple of the cathedral half-way between
the east and south-east bastions. To the N.W. of the Danaide Patches,
and between them and the town, are the Sulphur Rocks of 3 to 9 feet,
which may be just cleared on the south side by bringing the flagstaff on
Mount Ancon in one with the south steeple of the cathedral, a mark
that appears also to clear the Danaide Rocks to the northward in four
fathoms. About two miles to the southward of the town are five islands,
called Ilenao, Culebra, Perico, Flamenco, and San Jose, about 1J miles
from the shore ; between them and the shore there is no passage, the
water being shoal. Beyond these, at the distance of 1^ miles, is the
small island Changarmi, having a reef all round it, with a rock above
water at its north-west extremity, called the Penamarca : this island is
about a mile from the shore. To the south-westward of this, at the dis-
tance of two miles, are the small islands Tortola and Tortolita.
At about eight miles to the southward of the town of Panama, are the
islands, Tobago, Urava, and Taboguilla, the soundings about which are 8
to 15 fathoms. Of these islands, the largest, Taboga, has anchorage on
the north-east side in 8 to 10 fathoms, just off the village, where water
and provisions can be obtained. The island Urava is immediately off the
south end of Taboga, being separated from it by a very narrow channel ;
it has, off its south end, a small island or rock called Terapa. The island
Taboguilla is about 1^ miles to the north-eastward of Taboga, and about
half its size ; off its south-west end is a cluster of rocky islets, and there
are two or three rocks above water, called the Farrallons, off its south
extremity, having between them and the island 10 to 11 fathoms. The
channel between Taboga and Taboguilla has a depth of water of 13 to 20
fathoms, and is all clear excepting at its southern entrance, where, nearly
in mid-channel, there is a sunken rock, with 8 to 14 fathoms close- to
all round, lying with the Farrallons, bearing about N. by E. i E., and
the north end of Urava nearly W. by S. \ S.
To the southward of the Taboga Islets are the islands Chama, Valla-
12 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
dolid, Otoque, and Bana, which last is the furthest from the Taboga
group, being distant from them nearly 16 miles. Commander Sir E.
Belcher, R.N., recommends vessels, in approaching the town of Panama,
and after making Point Mala, to run up between these islands and the
main, on the western side of the gulf, as, by doing so, considerable time
will be saved.
QUIBO, OR COIBA ISLAND has lately been surveyed by Lieut.
John \Vood, R.N., from which it appears that it is about 19 miles long, and
IS miles broad in its widest part ; and that its south point, Negada, is in lat.
7° 13' 15" N. and long. 81° 36' 10" W. ; variation of the compass, 7° E.
It is luxuriantly wooded, and would be fruitful in every tropical pro-
duction but for the rains, which continue from April to November, and
render its climate unhealthy. Calms and variable winds prevail, espe-
cially in the rainy season ; it is therefore not so well adapted as a place
of general rendezvous, although more or less importance will be attached
to it whenever a transit by either of the adjoining provinces shall be
effected from the Atlantic.
On the eastern side of Quibo Island is Damas Bay, which is five or
six miles in extent, and affords a good depth of water and excellent
shelter from the eastward. The soundings are from 30 to 15 fathoms,
shoaling as you approach the shore ; and water may be obtained in the
northern part of the bay. Off the southern shore rocky shoals extend
nearly a mile out, so that care must be exercised to avoid them. In the
middle of the bay the land is low, and here there is a small stream, named
the River San Juan, at the entrance to which are some sandy flats.
Damas Bay was stated, by Captain Colnett, to be the most commo-
dious place for cruizers he had met with in these seas, as it abounded
with wood and water ; also trees of the cedar kind, large enough to make
masts for first-rate ships, and of excellent quality ; his place of anchorage
was in 19 fathoms, the north point of the bay being in a line with the
north point of Cebaco Island, bearing N.N.E., the watering-place
N.W. J N., and the south point of Quibo S.E. by S. ;* but vessels may
lay near enough to the shore to be able to haul off their water ; the time
of anchoring must however be considered, for sandy flats run a long way
off, and may deceive you in the distance. It is high water in the bay
at half after three o'clock ; the flood comes from the northward, flowing
seven hours and ebbing five, the perpendicular rise of the tide being two
fathoms. The anchorages throughout the bay are good ; and five or six
miles off you will find 33 and 35 fathoms, good holding muddy ground.
Few vegetables or fruits are to be obtained here, but shell- fish, as crabs,
cockles, periwinkles, and oysters, may be had in plenty ; there are also
* These bearings do not agree according to the new survey of Lieut. Wood.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 13
other fish to be caught, but alligators, sharks, and sea-snakes swarm on
the adjacent shores, and seem to harass, destroy, and lessen the quan-
tity ; deer and other animals are said to inhabit the island, and birds and
monkeys are numerous, but they are very shy, and difficult to get at ;
which Captain Colnett considers to be owing to the state of agitation
they live in, from the wolves, tigers, hawks, and vultures that prey upon
them. Turtles also are in great abundance, yet hard to catch. Whales
also frequent these shores, but not in any great numbers ; some of these
are of the spermaceti species.
HICARONS. — Southward from Quibo Island are the Hicarons, two
small islands, the southernmost lying in lat. 7° 6' N. and in long. 81° 48'
W. ; this is about one mile long, and the northern island 3| miles ; they
lie north and south of each other, being separated by a narrow passage.
The least island is entirely covered with cocoa-trees ; and the largest
island bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but very few trees
there are of the cocoa kind. The most extensive look-out, says Captain
Colnett, is from the top of Hicaron, for it commands Quibo and the whole
of the coast and bay to the northward.
The channel between Hicaron and Quibo is about four miles wide,
and has an irregular depth of 6 to 20 fathoms. It is quite clear; but as
there are some dangers near the south-east point of Quibo, it will be
more prudent to pass to the southward of the islands than to attempt the
passage within them, The principal danger to be avoided is the Hill
Rock, a small patch of six feet water, lying two miles S. J E. from
Barca Island, a small islet lying close to the shore of Quibo, and 5| miles
E. | N. from David Point, the eastern point of Hicaron Island. Close
to this rock there are 10 to 15 fathoms, so that it is very dangerous.
Off the N.E. point of Quibo Island there are several islands and
rocks. The largest island, named Rancheria, is 1 J miles in length, and
lies about 1 j mile from the shore ; within it are 7 and 8 fathoms, but,
as there are several dangers, it will not be prudent to run through. To
the north-eastward of this, about 4J miles, and separated from it by
soundings of 40 to 60 fathoms, are two smaller islands, named Afuera
and Afuerita, which appear to be surrounded by rocks.
The western coast of Quibo Island appears, from the survey, to be of
moderate height, and bold to, and without any dangers but what are
close to the shore. At about half way down there is an open bay, named
Hermosa, in which are 14 to SO fathoms.
Rear-Admiral Sir George Seymour has remarked of Quibo Island,
that "it is about the same size as the Isle of Wight. Off the points
ledges of rocks generally extend ; but there is an appearance of an an-
choring-place in the intervening bays on the east side, along which I pro-
ceeded in the ( Sampson ' steam-vessel. The soil on the coast is good,
14 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
but the interior is nearly inaccessible from the steepness of the cliffs and
the tangled vegetation. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited
the shores; but there are no inhabitants (1847) except at the small islet
of Rancheria, between which and the north-east end of Quibo there is
good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Sorget, is resident on
Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view,
seems more favourable for an establishment than any we saw on the
larger island."
In the account of Lord An son's voyage, by Richard Walter, published
in 1776, there is a description of Quibo Island, in the following terms.
It should be premised that the anchoring place was in Damas Bay.
" The island of Quibo is extremely convenient for wooding and
watering, since the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a large
rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea : so
that we were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and
water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, ex-
cepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the
whole surface of the country, which preserves its verdure the year round.
Amongst the other wood, we found there abundance of cassia, and a
few lime-trees. It appeared singular to us, that, considering the climate
and the shelter, we should see no other birds than parrots, paroquets, and,
mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were prodigious nights. Next to
these birds, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and
guanos, and these we frequently killed for food ; for, notwithstanding
there were many herds of deer upon the place, yet the difficulty of pene-
trating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so that, though we
saw them often, we killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners
assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once dis-
cover the print of a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigers them-
selves we never saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us, that there was
frequently found in the woods a most mischievous serpent, called the
flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from the boughs of trees, on
either man or beast that came within its reach ; and whose sting they
believed to be inevitable death. Besides these dangerous land animals,
the sea hereabouts is infested with great numbers of alligators, of an
extraordinary size : and we often observed a large kind of flat-fish,
jumping a considerable height out of the water, which we supposed to
be the fish that is said frequently to destroy the pearl-divers, by clasp-
ing them in its fins as they rise from the bottom ; and we were told that
the divers, for their security, are now always armed with a sharp knife,
which, when they are entangled, they stick into the belly of the fish,
and thereby disengage themselves from its embraces.
" Whilst the ship continued here at anchor, the Commodore, attended
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 15
by some of his officers, went in a boat to examine a bay which lay to
the northward ; and they afterwards ranged all along the eastern side of
the island. And in the places where they put on shore, in the course
of this expedition, they generally found the soil to be extremely rich,
and met with great plenty of excellent water. In particular, near the
north-east point of the island, they discovered a natural cascade, which
surpassed, as they conceived, everything of this kind which human art
or industry hath hitherto produced. It was a river of transparent water,
about forty yards wide, which rolled down a declivity of near a hundred
and fifty in length. The channel it fell in was very irregular, for it
was entirely composed of rock, both its sides and bottom being made up
of large detached blocks ; and, by these, the course of the water was
frequently interrupted : for in some parts it ran sloping with a rapid
but uniform motion, while in others it tumbled over the ledges of rocks
with a perpendicular descent. All the neighbourhood of this stream
was a fine wood, and even the huge masses of rock which overhung the
water, and which, by their various projections, formed the inequalities
of the channel, were covered with lofty forest trees."
To the eastward of Quibo Island, in the Bay of Montijo, are the
islands Ceba9O, Governadora, and others, of which we possess no
account.
BAHIA HONDA, on the main, immediately to the north-eastward
of Quibo Island, has lately been surveyed by Sir E. Belcher, R.N. It
is a small bay, extending about three miles into the land, and widening
when inside. In the north part of the bay is a little island named Talon,
to the eastward of which are six and eight fathoms. Midway in the en-
trance are 22 and 23 fathoms. The island, Sentinella, on the south side
of the entrance, is estimated to be in lat. 7° 43' 32" N. and long. 81° 29' I"
W. The variation of the compass, in 1839, was 6° IT E.
PUEBLO NUEVO.— This port lies at the back of Quibo Island, on
the main. At about 4J miles to the westward of the entrance, is a
small island, a quarter of a mile in extent, called Magnetic Island, on
which the observations were made in the course of Commander Sir E.
Belcher's survey of this neighbourhood, by which survey the position of
a small rock close to the south side of the island was determined to be
lat. 8° 4' 39" N. and long. 81° 45' 30" W. It is high water on the days
of full and change, at 3h. 10m., the rise of tide being 12 feet.
Commander Sir E. Belcher says, " The port consists of the outlet of
a large river, which takes its name from a small village of huts, situated
on the River Santiago, at some distance from the entrance. It is formed
by a neck or island about three miles in length, which affords good
anchorage for vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge
themselves into the main basin at the western end of this island, where
16 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the apparent great entrance is situated ; but so studded with rocks and
shoals, as to be unnavigable for anything larger than boats. It is in
fact, an extensive archipelago, as most of the regions towards the
,Chirique territory will be found to be on future examination.
" Water cannot be procured in any quantity, although it may pro-
>bably be procured by digging wells. The principal article of trade was
sarsaparilla, that of this neighbourhood being esteemed of superior
quality. The stream runs fresh at some miles up, but we did not either
meet it, or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cane, of good quality,
was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of the articles of trade, can be
procured at the season."
The entrance of the river is about three-quarters of a mile wide, but
the channel way is very much contracted by a sandy spit, called the
Belitre Bank, which runs oif from the north side of the river, and mostly
dries. The north side of the river is low and swampy, but the south
side, Cape Cayado, is high, making in hills of 300 and 400 feet eleva-
tion. When running in, steer close round Cape Cayado, in 7, 8, and
10 fathoms ; and keep the lead going, taking precaution to avoid the
Belitre Bank ; which is the more necessary as it is steep to, and gives
but little, if any warning by the lead. A spit of 2£ fathoms runs off
about a cable's length on the west side of Cape Cayado, and on the
south side of the cape are some rocks close to the shore, called the
Nueces Rocks, which are above water.
About 1J miles N.W. of Cape Cayado is the small island of Silla,
from which a spit of three to nine feet runs to the northward towards
the main. On the west side of this island the soundings increase from
eight to ten fathoms. Var. 7° 37' E. in 1839.
From hence the .coast trends round to the south-westward to the
Contreras Islands, and then runs to the westward about 60 miles to
Burica Point, from whence it runs to the north-westward to the Gulf
of Dulce. Off this coast are the following islands and rocks, of which
the principal information we have, has been furnished by Captain James
Colnett, R.N. in 1798.
The first islands met with, after passing the Contreras, are the Secas,
about two miles from the shore, and 36 miles eastward of Point Burica.
Outside of these, at about seven leagues S.E. by E. | E. from Point
Burica, is .a cluster of barren rocks, called the Ladrones, and S.E. 10
leagues from these, is the Island Montuosa, which is about six miles in
circumference, and rises to a considerable height, having its summit
covered with cocoa and other trees. Off the east and west ends of the
island, rocks and breakers extend out three or four miles ; and on the
south side of the island the bottom is rocky, so also is the shore near
the sea ; still, there is a sandy beach behind some small creeks which
THE WEST COAST OF JJORTH AMERICA. 17
run between the rocks, where the landing for boats is safe. Captain
Colnett found here plenty of parrots, doves, and guanas, and states that
it is probable that refreshments might be had by searching for them ;
and that this is a place which might be serviceable to whalers and others,
whose sick could be landed here ; the milk of the cocoa-nut might also
occasionally supply the place of water.
GULF OF DULCE.— On the eastern side of the Gulf of Dulce is
Point Burica, a narrow headland, the extremity of which is in lat. 8° N.
and long. 82° 59' W. From hence the coast runs to the north-westward
about 30 miles, and then turns round towards the south-west about
seven miles, forming a large bay called the Gulf of Dulce, in which are
said to be several places of excellent anchorage and good water.
From hence the coast runs towards the north-west 70 miles, and has
the small islands Cano and Queypo lying off it near the shore. It then
turns round to the northward to the Gulf of Nicoya, which is an excellent
place for shipping, having many good anchorages within it, but is said to
be unhealthy.
Commander Sir E. Belcher mentions that " on the 28th of March
they passed the Island of Cano, and on the 29th, between it and the
main, found themselves at daylight off the mouth of a large inlet, which
they had not time to examine, the current at the same time setting
strongly to the eastward, with very hazy weather."
GULF OF NICOYA, occasionally called Punta Arenas, is an inlet
extending about 50 miles into the coast. It is about 25 miles wide at
the mouth, between Cape Blanco and Port Herradura, but soon begins
to narrow, gradually decreasing in breadth to the head of the gulf.
There are a few islands in it, among which good shelter may be oc-
casionally obtained, using precaution to avoid the shoal spots.
On the eastern side of the gulf, in lat. 9° 38' 30", and long. 84° 36'
7" W. is Port Herradura, a small bay, sheltered from south-easterly winds
by the small Island of Cano, which lies on the south side of the bay, but
open to all winds that blow from the westward ; there is no channel be-
tween this island and the shore, the space being occupied by a rocky ledge.
The north point of the bay, Point Herradura, is high and rocky, and sur-
rounded by a rocky ledge, which partly shows above water. Vessels in
running in will find 24 to 18 fathoms at the entrance, but will soon
deepen their water to 10 and 8 fathoms, when they will be about half a
mile from the head of the bay, and may anchor. Excellent water may
be obtained in a small lake at the head of the bay, by rolling the casks
into the basin, where twenty can be filled at once. Vessels may ride
close to the shore by veering the whole cable with a warp to the
beach.
From Herradura Point the coast runs to the northward, about 2£ miles,
c
18 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
to Point Sucia, off which a rocky ledge extends to the westward one
mile, and partly shows at low tide. Close-to, on the outside of this
ledge, there is deep water of 18 to 25 fathoms. From hence the coast
turns round to N.W. 4 N. 4J miles, and then runs N.E., 10 miles, to
Calderas Bluff, a high rocky point, to the eastward of which is Port
Calderas, which is the principal port in the gulf, having a custom-house.
Calderas is generally considered to be unhealthy to all new residents,
and the higher authorities usually manage to excuse residence. Here
wood, water, and provisions may be obtained.
From Calderas Bluff the coast runs round to the north-eastward, eight
miles, to Arenas Point, off which a bank of 3^ and 44 fathoms extends
2% miles to the southward, having a small spot of two fathoms on it,
lying with the extremity of the point bearing N. J W., li mile, and
the Pan de Azucar W.S.W. J S., 3f miles. This bank is very steep on
the western side, deepening suddenly from 7 to 22 fathoms.
Arenas Point has a shelf of mud extending about a, mile to the west-
ward of it, which is awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a
small stream, which has its outlet immediately to the northward of it.
On the north side of this river there is another shelf of mud, which also
becomes dry at low water. From hence the gulf runs to the N.W. by
W., about 25 miles, and shoals gradually as you approach the head of the
gulf. Near the end of the gulf is a large island called Chira.
West side of the Gulf. — Cape Blanco, on the west side of the gulf, is
of moderate height, well wooded, even to the beach, and has a small
island lying about a mile off it, with a clear channel of 4J and 9 fathoms
between. This island is of a whitish colour, without verdure, and, at a
distance, appears to be part of the main land. It is surrounded by a
rocky ledge, which dries at low water, and has deep water of 10 to 30
fathoms immediately to the southward of it. Captain Belcher makes the
following remarks, on passing round the cape : —
" On the morning of the 30th of March, 1837, we passed the Gulf of
Nicoya, and close to the island named Cape Blanco, at its western point.
Here we found ourselves obstructed by a point, off which the breakers
and rocky ledges above water extended some distance to seaward. The
soundings were regular from 25 to 11 and 8& fathoms, hard sand, in
which latter depth we tacked successively within 1J mile of the shore
surf, and an outer roller about half a mile from us on the last tack. The
weather, during the whole day, was thick and hazy over the land, fol-
lowed, at nightfall, by thunder and rain.
These symptoms of the approach of the bad season, rendered me
doubly anxious to get to the northward, as our crew were not, at this
time, in the best condition, and the moist season we experienced was
very oppressive.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 19
At daylight, the weather very hazy, and Cape Blanco still in sight ;
a short distance to the westward we observed a sandy sloping bluff, off
which a shelf, apparently composed of sand, with conical studded rocks,
extended a considerable distance to seaward. On a sandy islet near
the Bluff, two very remarkable ears jutting up, off which we tacked in
13| fathoms, sand."
From Cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf runs 1 1 miles to the
N.E. by N. \ N., and is pretty clear, excepting that a ledge of rocks,
partly above and partly under water, runs one mile off the shore, at
about #4 miles from the cape, having deep water of 17 fathoms close-to
outside. At the end of this distance, 1 1 miles, the coast bends a little
inwards, forming a small bay, called Ballena Bay, in which are soundings
of 18 and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually as you approach the head of the
bay, which is low land covered with mangroves. The north side of Bal-
lena Bay, called Ballena Head, is of moderate height, and steep-to,
having 14 fathoms a short distance off it. From hence, the coast runs
N.E. J N., about eight miles to the Nigretas Islands, having about
midway two islands, separated from the shore by a narrow channel
navigable by boats, called Jasper and Alcatraz. The Nigretas are two
islands pretty close to each other, which run off 2f miles from the coast,
having off the eastern one a ledge of rocks extending a quarter of a mile
to the eastward, near the extremity of which is a large rock called the
Sail Rock.
From the Nigretas Islands the coast runs to the N.N.W., 6i miles,
and has several islands off it, lying more or less near the shore ; of these,
the largest, about two miles westward of Nigretas Islands, is called
Cedro Island. At the end of this distance are the Islands Aves, Pan de
Azucar, and San Lucas, surrounded by shoals to a short distance, but
separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 11 fathoms. The Pan
de Azucar, by the observations of Commander Sir E. Belcher, has been
determined to be in lat. 9° 55' 48" N. and long. 84° 50' 2" W. High
water on the days of full and change at 3h. 9m., the rise of tide being
10 feet.
The channel up the gulf, to the northward of the San Lucas Islands,
between them and the bank off Point Arenas, is 1| mile wide, with a
depth of 18 to 27 fathoms, muddy bottom. Hence up the gulf, and
failing a pilot, the eye and steady use of the lead will be the best
guides.
Directions. — The following, which are the only instructions we have
for the gulf, were written in 1843, and are added, as they may prove
useful : —
" The entrance of the gulf is safe ; the tides, however, at times run
strongly, especially at the full and change of the moon. There is ebb
2U , SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
and flood, but the former is of longer continuance and much stronger
than the latter.
To run in, keep to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Blanco,
which is the westerly part of the gulf; and should you round the cape at
the distance of from one to three miles, the course will be about N.E. ; or,
if you should be about half-way between the cape and Point Herradura,
the eastern side of the gulf, it will be a little more northerly.
Having sighted the Nigretas, named also the Boqueron Islands, which
will show themselves on the port-bow, you will see a rocky point a
little to the eastward of the Nigretas, having the appearance of a vessel,
and hence called the Ship Rock, to which you must give a good berth,
leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard coast, so
that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you might anchor
in shallow water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the
Ship Rock, or Nigretas, it would be difficult to find anchorage, at least
in not less than 20 to 30 fathoms ; and if unable to anchor, the ebb tide,
which is very strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel back
again past Cape Blanco. Steer along the starboard coast, so as to pass
the extreme points at a distance of from two to three miles, and you will
soon perceive the custom-house of Punta Arenas, towards which you
will shape your course, and as soon as the village is seen, bring the
custom-house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W.,
when you will have from 13 to 8 fathoms, and will see in the distance
the point named Punta Arenas. Further out there is a heavy breaking
of the sea, occasioned by some sand-banks, which run out a great distance,
and partly dry at low water. To the westward of the banks are the
islands of San Lucas ; to the eastward of which, between them and the
banks, there is good anchorage.
Merchant-vessels prefer lying closer to the harbour, on account of
their proximity to the landing-place and stores. The course indicated
above will lead ships into this anchorage. The leading mark is the
custom-house on with the flag-staff of the port. You will have about
eight fathoms water, muddy bottom, at from a half to three cables'
length from the shore.
The banks above alluded to have a tendency both to augment and
change their position, and the safest course is to keep the custom-house
a little open to the eastward of the flag-staff, keeping the lead constantly
going ; and should the water shoalen, to haul immediately to starboard.
If desirous to come to anchor on heaving the ship to, at some two or
three miles from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be
done, until one comes off and carries you to the place desired.
The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof; but
it should be carefully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 21
sea was making upon this spot, the said custom-house may by this time
have been destroyed, and another rebuilt elsewhere." *
It has been recommended that ships from the southward should make
Cape Blanco, for the purpose of obtaining a fresh departure for their
intended port. Such is the course recommended by the writer of the
foregoing directions, who considers that it is a better plan than to make
a direct course for the volcano of Viego ; as in winter the winds are
light and variable, and attended with frequent calms, and it is frequently
the case that the high lands are obscured by mists or haze, which
renders the navigation difficult, even to those well acquainted with the
coast.
From Cape Blanco the coast runs N.W. J W., 50 miles, to Point Velas,
so called from being frequently mistaken for a sail, off which are some
rocks ; and about eight miles before you come to which is a small place
called Morro Hermoso. It is recommended to give the land a good
berth, in order to avoid what dangers there may be ; for it has not yet
been closely examined. It is represented to be, in general, high land
covered with trees, with occasionally some sandy plains and small deep
bays. From Point Vejas the coast runs seven miles to the northward, to
Point Gorda, to the north- eastward of which is Port Culebra.
GULF OF PAPAGAYO is the bend of the coast in which are
situated the ports of Culebra and Salinas,
PORT CULEBRA is an inlet running about four miles into the coast, in
a north-easterly direction. At its entrance it is about a mile wide, with
soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, which depth decreases gradually towards
the head of the bay, where there are nine to six fathoms. On the south
side of the entrance are some islets, or rocks, at a short distance from the
shore, called the South Yiradores ; and on the north side are also two
similar rocks, called the North Viradores. Captain Sir E. Belcher has
determined the north end of the bay to be in lat. 10° 36' 55" N., and
long. 85° 33X 30" W., variation in 1838, 7° 5' 54" E. After mentioning
various difficulties experienced in finding the port, he describes it in the
following terms : —
" At daylight on Sunday, the 25th of March, 1838, we were close off
the port, but not being able to detect the Viradores, we wore, and
intended running further south ; as Kellet had informed me that, in his
search for me, he had been unable to find it.
* See page 18, in which Calderas is stated to be the chief port, from the informa-
tion of Commander Sir E. Belcher, who says :— " Punta Arenas was formerly the
port of this gulf in the state of Costa Rica ; but interested parties, whose property lay
near to Calderas, on the eastern side of the gulf, managed to have the port or custom-
house officers, &c., shifted thither. It is very unhealthy, almost fatal to all new
residents ; and the highest authorities take care to excuse residence."
2 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
While in the act of wearing, a gleam of sunshine showed an island
in-shore, which induced me to make another attempt, and on reaching to
windward we opened the heads and discovered the Viradores ; but even
then could only ascertain from the mast-head that any recess of bay lay
within. At noon we entered the heads, and at 3h. anchored in eight
fathoms in this splendid port, justly deserving that appellation.
The port is certainly magnificent, and, from information derived
from the natives, I learned that it is connected with Salinas, and thence
on to Nicaragua, Granada, &c. If any railroad is contemplated in this
quarter, it ought to enter at the Bay of Salinas, which would render
these two ports important. When this portion of the country becomes
settled, civilized, and more populous, I little doubt but Culebra will be
better known, and probably the chief port of the state of Nicaragua.
Water, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be
obtained a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high
water. If wells were dug, doubtless it would be found at the N. W. side,
as the surrounding country is mountainous. Another symptom in favour
of this is the thickly -wooded sides and summits, as well as bright green
spots of vegetation throughout the bay.
Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar were observed
near the beach, but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil,
probably all the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been taken."
From Port Culebra the coast runs to the N.N.W., about 20 miles, to
Cape St. Helena, round to the northward of which are Tomas and
Salinas Bays. On the south side of this remarkable cape is a cluster of
islands, called the Murciellagos, or Bat Islands. Captain Sir E. Belcher
makes the following remarks on these islands : —
" On rounding the point in view corresponding to Point Catalina of
Bauza, we discovered a cluster of eight islands. These I determined to
examine, as they did not appear on the chart. They almost formed two
distinct harbours ; the smaller islands forming a crescent by the south,
one large island protecting the east, and another of similar size forming
the line of separation. Passing into the bay, we anchored in the inner
or eastern harbour ; and, having fixed the positions, surveyed it, and
completed water at a very convenient position, where we anchored in 32
fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore.
We quitted for Salinas, after having satisfied ourselves that Culebra
was not near us. The name of this remarkable cape, which we had
mistaken for Catalina, is St. Helena, and the cluster of islands is termed
Murciellagos, or Bat Islands.
The springs are numerous, and there are tolerable rivulets; but
only that which we watered at (between the centre point and the main)
is safe to approach, by reason of the constant surf. We found the gulf
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 23
squalls, even in this sheltered position, come down the gullies with great
force, and impede our work as well as endanger our boats. In forty-eight
hours, however, it was finished. The geological structure of the cape and
islands is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine."
TOMAS AND SALINAS BAYS, to the northward of St. Helena Point,
are separated from each other by a small headland, called Point Descarte.
They are quite open to all winds blowing from the westward. In the
south part of Tomas Bay, at about a mile from the shore, are some rocks
above water, named the Vagares ; and at the head of the bay is a small
island, called Juanilla, inside of which are seven and eight fathoms. The
north shore of the bay has also an islet lying off it, named Despensa.
The water in this bay is very deep, there being 30 fathoms at two miles
from its head ; from whence it deepens gradually to eight and seven
fathoms within Juanilla Island.
Salinas or Bolanos Bay is about the same size as Tomas Bay, nearly
four miles ; but has not such deep soundings, the depth averaging six to
ten fathoms, sand and mud. In the south part of the bay are some
rocks, above and under water, at a short distance from the shore ; and in
the centre of the bay is a small island, called Salinas, the position of
which has been determined to be in lat. 11° 2' 50" N., and long.
85° 39' 9" W. The north side of the bay is high land, but the south
side is low and flat.
The prevailing winds in this gulf, named Papagayos, blow with con-
siderable violence out of the gulf, and frequently cause the loss of spars
and rigging. They commence about the meridian of Leon, long.
86° 50' W., and when you are coming from the westward, are first felt
off Cape Desolada, about six miles to the eastward of Realejo, and
suddenly give way to calms after passing to the westward. They
decrease about sunset, and attain their greatest force about nine or ten
in the morning.
Captain Sir E. Belcher says of this wind or breeze, that its limits
may be considered to be included in a line drawn from Cape Desolada
to Point Velas ; and it is rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength
seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer a curve at a
distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land.
Captain Marie says of the coast to the eastward of the gulf, that in
this part of the coast, and as far as the entrance of the Gulf of Papagayo,
the winds are very light, with frequent calms ; the tides setting strong
from the N.W. Custom recommends steering along the coast in the gulf,
by so doing it is thought that the squalls are less severe, the winds
lore steady, and the sea much smoother. He has frequently crossed
lis gulf, sometimes close in shore, and at other times been forced, by
rong winds from N.N.E. to N.N.W., to keep in the offing. In the
24 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
summer time he has navigated in this locality both near to, and at a
distance from the coast, and in both cases met with strong winds, ac-
companied with sudden and heavy squalls, which are almost immediately
followed by calms ; great care is therefore necessary. He has always
taken the precaution to keep from one to three reefs in the topsails,
taking care promptly to shorten sails when the squalls came on, and then
keeping as close to the wind as possible, with a good full sail, so as easily
to make Point Salade ; and thus cross the gulf with this sort of weather
in about 12 or 15 hours. The winds generally enable ships to make
a N.W. course, but in order to keep in with the coast, it is desirable, as
the squalls subside, to steer, if possible, a little to windward of that
point.
PORT SAN JUAN. — From Salinas Bay the coast runs towards the
north-west, about 1.5 miles, to a place named Port San Juan,* which was
selected by Mr. Baily, who was employed by the government of Central
America to make a survey of this part of the country, as the point where
the railway or canal from the Lake of Nicaragua, projected at that time,
1838, should communicate with the Pacific. It is in lat. 1 1° 15' 37" N.,
and long. 85° 52' 56" W., and is but a small place, although sufficiently
commodious within. High land surrounds it on every side, excepting
towards the S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open
to the ocean. At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each side
the land juts out towards the sea, forming promontories of 400 to 500
feet high. The port is about 1,100 yards in extent; and the entrance
from the sea is clear, with a depth of water of nine, eight, seven, and six,
fathoms, decreasing gradually to three fathoms at the distance of 300
yards from the beach. In every part there is good anchorage, generally
on a muddy bottom ; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 feet.
The prevailing winds on this part of the coast are North and N.E.,
which blow occasionally with considerable violence ; and when such is the
case, vessels may sometimes experience some difficulty in making the
port. Fresh water can be obtained at a short distance from the beach.
Fish is abundant, but nothing else, except firewood, is to be had ; the
neighbouring lands at present being in a state of nature, without inhabi-
tants or habitations ; nor is there either village or town nearer than that
of Nicaragua, at a distance of seven or eight leagues. There are a few
cattle about.
At the distance of less than a mile from the port of San Juan, there is
another port named Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same size and
figure ; and, as the land between them is low and nearly level, they might
be united by a cut, were it thought necessary. As these places are so
* Also called San Juan del Sur, and Concordia,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 25
nearly adjacent, they could, probably, both be usefully occupied, one as
an entrance to, the other as an exit from, the canal.
Captain Sir E. Belcher had great difficulty in finding Port San Juan,
and remarks — " as we could not fetch Salinas, I beat up to a position
where we observed a flag displayed, rockets fired, and a number of men
and women in holiday garb collected ; and, it being Sunday, we anchored
for the day. The surf was too heavy to attempt landing, therefore we
could neither fix our position satisfactorily, nor obtain information about
San Juan, although I strongly suspected this to be the spot. On Monday
we ran up to Salinas Bay, and then commenced the coast survey to
Realejo, under very easy sail, anchoring for observations near noon as
well as at night. Every nook was narrowly examined, but without
success ; therefore I am satisfied that Sunday's position, before noticed,
was the port in question."
From Salinas Bay the coast runs towards the north-west, a distance of
about 100 miles, to Cape Desolada, a term answering its description, as
only one or two stunted shrubs are on its summit ; it is in general pretty
clear and bold-to, and has 10 to 12 fathoms a short distance off. About
10 miles to the westward of Cape Desolada is Cardon Island, at the
entrance to the port of Realejo. It is said that at about seven miles
before reaching the port there is a reef running off the land, having two
rocks above water, the one eight and the other five feet high, which are
distant from the beach rather more than three-quarters of a mile. In
passing it, give the rocks above water a berth of two miles. The ground
between the rocks and one and a half mile seaward of them, and probably
more, is very uneven. In the year 1835, H.M.S. Conway struck on
a part of this reef, at § of a mile S.S. W. J W. from the north-west, or
highest of the rocks.* — Nautical Mag. 1836, p. 70.
REALEJO. — The village of Realejo is about nine miles from the sea,
and in 1837 had a population of about 1,000. Its prosperity has for
some years past been declining, more from want of capital, and the little
security afforded by a weak government, than from any want or field
for speculation. The principal employment of the males is on the water,
loading or unloading vessels. There is a custom-house, a collector,
comptroller, and other officers necessary for the management of the port.
Water and provisions can be obtained. The branch of the river on
which the village is situated, the Donna Paula, takes a course towards
Leon, and is navigable to within three leagues of that city. It has been
* It should be observed that, according to Captain Sir E. Belcher's chart of
Realejo Harbour, there is a reef, named the Conway Reef, lying three-quarters of a
mile from the beach, with Castanon Bluff, south side of the Barra Falsa Channel of
the harbour, bearing N.W. f W., nearly three miles. Probably it is the same
reef.
26 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
suggested to carry a railway from Leon to the Lake of Managua, which
might be effected ; but neither the population or consideration of the
returns at present warrant such a step, unless as the sole act of the
government.
Off the mouth of the river is the island of Cardon, which divides the
entrance into two channels, the Cardon Channel on the north, and the
Barra Falsa on the south. It is about three-quarters of a mile long, and
a cable's length broad, at the south end ; thence widening a little towards
its other extremity, and is surrounded, to a short distance off, by a sandy
flat of one and two fathoms water. The island is of moderate height,
appearing of a brownish red colour towards its north- west part, Cape
Ponente, which has some trees on it. On each side of the entrance, the
shore, for some distance, is low and woody.
The Barra Falsa Channel, the south channel into the river, lies between
Cape Austro, the south end of Cardon Island, and Castanon Bluff, the,
western part of three islands running off the main, but which are con-
nected together at low water by dry sand. The distance between the
two capes is about a quarter of a mile, but the channel-way is not more
than a cable's length wide, being confined by the shoals on either side.
In approaching this channel, you should open the western point of
Cardon Island to the southward of Castanon Head, as it will clear the
Con way Reef in six and seven fathoms ; and, in running in, bring the
Vigia, a conspicuous building, about 4<J miles up the country, to bear
about N.N.E., appearing between the two points, and it will lead in, in
about five and four fathoms. Both flood and ebb press upon the Castanon
Shoals, and without a knowledge of the tides, this channel will be unsafe
for a large vessel, unless with a strong leading wind.
Cape Austro. The Vigia. Castanon Bluff.
SOUTH CHANNEL OF PORT REALEJO.
The Cardon Channel is the safest for strangers. It lies close round
the north end of Cardon Island, between it and the Sawyer Shoals,
extending off the south-west end of Aserradores Island, which have not
more than 3 to 15 feet on them. To sail in, run towards the entrance
with the south end of Aserradores Island and Cardon Head touching
each other ; and when up with Cardon Head, haul close round it, as the
current sets direct on the Sawyer Shoals. A heavy swell breaks on
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 27
Ponente Point. You may go close to Cardon Head, off which, at a
short distance, are 11 fathoms.
If bound to this port from the southward, and having passed about 20
miles to the eastward of Cocos Island, you should steer so as to make the
land to the eastward of the port, near Cape Desolada, during the period
between November and May, as the winds prevail from the north-east,
and blow, occasionally, with considerable violence out of the Gulf of
Papagayo, causing a current to set along the shore to the N.W. From
Cape Desolada you run along the coast in about 10 fathoms water.
A good mark to make Realejo is the mountains Viejo and Monotombo ;
the former of which is visible 60 miles, and bears about N.E. by E. from
the anchorage. In our chart of the coast we have given a view of it.
VIEJO VOLCANO, bearjng N. 70° E. 25 miles. h
M. Marie recommends that, in the winter time, and wanting a pilot,
you should anchor in eight or nine fathoms, muddy bottom, on the west
side of Cardon Island, with the island bearing E. ; and in the summer
time, the north-west point of the island bearing S.E. \ E. ; in both cases,
at about a mile off the island.
It is imprudent to attempt to run in without a pilot. When inside,
the usual anchorage for merchant-vessels is eight or nine miles below the
village, at a place named the Four Rivers. Here there is less annoyance
from the musquitoes than if higher up. Good water can always be
obtained by going to one of the small rivers a few miles above the
anchorage. In winter this place is considered to be unhealthy, on account
of the fevers, which are frequent and very dangerous.
The north end of Cardon Island was found, by Commander Sir E.
Belcher, to be in lat. 12° 2T 55" N. and long. 87° 7' 47" W. The time
of high water is 3h. 6m. on the days of full and change ; and the rise
at spring tides of 11 feet. Upon this port he makes the following
remarks : —
" Cardon Island is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much
iron, that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic
needle to vibrate 21° from zero. I do not believe, however, that the
needle was much, if at all, affected on the summit of the island, where our
28 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
observations were conducted. Our position was on its new cliffy angle.
The boats having examined and found the anchorage safe, the Sulphur
was brought in and anchored within the Island of Aserradores, in per-
fectly still water, four fathoms, mud.
On the Island of Aserradores our tide-guage was established, being
free from undulation, although directly open to seaward through Barra
Falsa ; and we were fortunate enough to find a good well of fresh water
close to the beach.
Trusting to the accounts I had read of the magnificence of this port,
I had fully intended placing the ship near the town. The visit of the
Captain of the port soon undeceived me. He assured me that at low
water not more than three feet would be found near the town, and so
narrow, that there was barely room for the oars of my gig, and then only
by careful steerage. Indeed, I found, that although the ship might be
warped two miles higher up, she would there be entirely shut from any
breeze, her yards probably locked in the trees, and swarming with
musquitoes.
This port, if a settlement were established on the Islands of Aser-
radores, Cardon, or Castanon, would probably be more frequented ; but
the distance from the position where vessels usually anchor (within
Cardon) to Realejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for
supplies. Rum is also too cheap, and too great a temptation for the
seamen. Supplies of poultry, fruit, bullocks, grain, &c., are, however,
very reasonable, and of very superior quality ; turkeys are said to attain
an incredible weight ; they still, however, justly maintain a very high
reputation.
The present village of Realejo (for the name of town cannot be
applied to such a collection of hovels) contains one main street, about
200 yards in length, with three or four cross openings, leading to the
isolated cottages in the back lanes. With the exception of the houses
occupied by the commandant, vice-consul, administrator of customs, and
a few others, there is not a decent house in the place. The ruins of a
well-constructed church attest its former respectability. The inhabitants
generally have a very unhealthy appearance."
From Cardon Island the trend of the coast is about N.W. along Aser-
radores Island, which is low and well wooded, and has a sandy beach.
A near approach to this coast is not recommended, as, if the wind should
subside, the current and swell would soon drift you ashore. During
winter, when the wind sometimes blows from S. to S.W. with rainy
weather, there is also danger in remaining at anchor off this shore, as the
sea runs very high.
At a short distance to the N.W. of Aserradores Island there is a small
round island, covered with trees, and with a beach of a whitish colour,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 29
called Manzana, between which and Aserradores there is a channel
nearly dry at low water, at which time it appears to consist of a single
bed (plateau) of rocks. It is dangerous to attempt this passage, even in a
boat, unless in very fine weather and nearly high water. Between
Manzana and the main there is another passage, but even more dangerous
than that alluded to ; for, although the sea breaks less, and consequently
does not so readily discover to you the rocks and sandy shoals, there is
actually much less water upon them than is found in the previously men-
tioned channel.
It has occasionally happened that vessels bound to Realejo, and unac-
quainted with the bearings necessary to make the entrance of that port,
have mistaken Manzana for Cardon, and Aserradores for Castanon, and
the passage mentioned for the entrance to Realejo ; so that great caution
is necessary when sailing along this coast not to be deceived in the
appearance of the land. In fact, good charts and sailing directions are
much wanted for this part of the coast.
To the N.W. of Manzana are some rocks extending out some miles,
and upon which the sea breaks violently. They extend along the coast
as far as the parallel of the Mesa de Rodlan, a small mountain close to the
beach, with a flat top. These reefs border the coast, are separated by
channels, and have between them and the shore smooth water. From
hence to Point Conseguina, at the entrance to the Gulf of Eonseca, the
coast has a north-westerly direction.
GULF OF FONESCA, OR CONCHAGUA.— The Gulf of Fonsecais a
large inlet or bay extending about 30 miles into the coast. The point on
the eastern side, called Conseguina, is high, and has a reef extending off
it nearly half a mile ; from hence the coast runs six miles towards the
N. by E., and is high and cliffy, having, about half-way, some rocks
extending a short distance from the land. Hence the coast bends round to
the eastward for about a mile, and then runs 5£ miles in a N. £ E. direc-
tion to Moneypenny Point, which is low and swampy. On the eastern
side of Moneypenny Point is a small river or lagoon.
From Moneypenny Point the coast takes a turn to the south-eastward,
for 14 miles, to the mouth of the River Real, and is low all the way, but
rises inland to high mountain land. The River Real is said to be
navigable 60 miles from its mouth, and Sir E. Belcher was enabled to get
his vessel, the Starling, up a distance of 30 miles, and could easily have
gone further, had the wind permitted, but the prevailing strong winds
rendered the toil of towing too heavy.*
* Captain Sir E. Belcher makes the following remarks on this stream ; he says,
"I am satisfied that the stream could have been followed many miles higher; and
have not the slightest doubt that it is fed very near to the Lake of Managua. I saw
the mountains beyond the lake on its eastern side, and no land higher than the inter-
30 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
About eight miles within Conseguina Point is the volcano of that
name, notorious for its frequent emissions of dust, ashes, and water. Its
summit is about 3,800 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen at
the distance of nearly 70 miles in clear weather. The verge of the crater
is half a mile in diameter. The interior walls fall perpendicularly to a
depth of about 200 feet, when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish,
with a small transparent lake in the centre. The last grand eruption of
this volcano occurred on the 20th of January, ] 835, and was attended
with the most disastrous effects.
CONSEGUINA VOLCANO.
From the River Real the coast bends round to the N.N.W., about 30
miles, to the head of the gulf, and has soundings of 1J to 3J fathoms, at
four miles from the shore, with some dry patches at 6 miles, E. by N.,
from Moneypenny Point.
The western side of the gulf, Point Amapala or Candadillo, is of
moderate height, and bordered by a reef of rocks and sand extending
about a mile into the sea, and causing heavy breakers ; thus enabling it
to be easily avoided. Outside the point, at a short distance, are six to
eight fathoms.
From Point Amapala the shore bends in to the north-westward to the
outlet of a small river, and then turns to the north-eastward, nine miles,
to Chicarene Point, round the north side of which is Port la Union,
extending eight or nine miles inland. The upper and north shores of
the port are low, and have extensive oyster beds running off them, by
which the dimensions of the port are very much contracted. Off the
entrance of the port are several islands. The channel- way to Conchagua,
or San Carlos de la Union, is between these islands and Chicarene or
Chiriguin Point, and is less than half a mile wide, with a depth of 12 to
14 fathoms in it.
vening trees occurred. This, therefore, would be the most advantageous line for a
canal, which, by entire lake-navigation, might be connected with the interior of the
states of San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and extended to the Atlantic. Thirty
navigable miles, for vessels drawing 10 feet, we can vouch for ; and the natives and
residents assert 60 more ; but steamers will be absolutely necessary to tow against the
prevailing breezes."
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 31
Conchagua, or San Carlos de la Union, is but a small place, although
the principal port of San Miguel, 40 miles to the westward, in the interior.
The port is entirely land-locked, in fact, a complete basin, and has a depth
of four to five fathoms on the south side, over against the town ; but on the
north side are extensive flats, which dry when the tide is down. The land-
ing is at all times difficult, and at low water nearly impossible, and during
strong northerly winds the communication is frequently cut off for days.
It is not considered to be safe to lay-to close to the town ; for, in summer,
it blows hard from the northward, and if your anchor came home, you
might be ashore before you could let go a second. The holding-ground
is not considered to be very good.
At the head of the gulf are the Tiger and Conchagua Islands, of which
the southernmost of the group is called Manguera. They are all more
or less situated on a three-fathom flat.
On the eastern side of the gulf, and just within the entrance, is a
dangerous reef of rocks, some above and some below the water, named
the Farallones. They lie with Moneypenny Point bearing East, distant
five and a half miles, and have eight to ten fathoms close-to all
round.
From the Gulf of Fonseca the coast runs to the north-westward, about
50 miles, to the parallel of Vincente volcano, and is said to be dangerous
all the way. In this space several rivers fall into the sea, the principal
of which are the Rio Grande de San Miguel and the Lempa ; having, at
their entrance, numerous sand-banks, but imperfectly known. Outside
these sand-banks there are 10 and 12 fathoms, sandy bottom. There are
said to be very heavy rollers in this part, the sea breaking furiously even
at the distance of six and seven miles from the land.
In reference to these shoals, opinions differ as to their position ; some
navigators stating that they have safely sailed along the coast at the
distance of two or three miles ; whilst Others assert, that in sailing at the
distance of nine miles from the land, they were close upon the southern
edge of the reef. It is, therefore, most prudent not to keep too close
in-shore, until San Vincente is brought to bear about N.N.E., when you
may haul up in sight of the breakers of the coast, where there is no
danger.
About half-way between the Gulf of Fonseca and San Vincente
volcano, is the Port Triunfo de los Libres, or Giquilisco, which is but a
small place, having at its entrance two or three small islands, and much
obstructed by sand-banks, upon which the sea breaks heavily. Its
position has been determined to be nearly as follows : — lat. 13° 22' N.,
and long. 88° 12' W.
PORT LIBERT AD.— "Whilst in sight of San Vincente, you will see
the volcano of San Salvador, the summit of which is flat, and not unlike a
32 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
tortoise, and appears from the eastward to end in a peak. From the
meridian of San Miguel the coast is low, sandy, and covered with trees,
but becomes rocky near Port Libertad. All this part of the coast to
Point Remedies, in long. 89° 42' 55", is named Costa del Bahama, from
its yielding, in great profusion, the article termed Balm of Peru.
A good mark to make Libertad is the mountain San Salvador, bearing
N. by E. or N. It is but a small village of about twelve huts, (1837)
and a family of about six in each. There is also a government building,
employed for the stowage of the tackle used in landing cargoes ; and
having at one end a cabin for the commandant, serving as parlour,
bedroom, kitchen, &c. Captain Sir E. Belcher has made the following
observations on the port : —
" One would naturally expect from the title, * Port of Libertad/
something pretending to a bay, or a deep indentation ; but a straight
sandy beach between two slightly projecting ledges of rock, about one
mile asunder, forms the playa of Libertad ; it is law and interest only
that have made it a port.
At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of
large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises, they
are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving stony bottom
left, on which our boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally
violent for three or four days at full and change, which corresponded
with our visits.
The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in four
or five fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are
the most dangerous, are caused by the offset, or efflux.
The sand beach is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried
superstratum, about one inch in thickness, caking in flakes free from
admixture.
The anchorage is uneasy, and, I should think, unsafe, and should be
avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to
snap chain-cables, unless with a long range.
Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but, compared with those
of San Salvador or Realejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only
be embarked in one of their bongos."
SONSONATE ROAD.— From Port Libertad the coast runs about
30 miles to the westward, to Point Remedies, round to the northward of
which is Sonsonate or Acajutla Road, where ships can lie in nine to
eleven fathoms, bottom of sand, mud, and gravel, partly sheltered from
winds off the land, but exposed to all that blow from the southward and
westward. Point Remedies is of moderate height, and can be seen at a
considerable distance, and has a reef of rocks off it, some above and some
under water, extending about three miles out to sea. This reef affords
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 33
great protection to the anchorage, as it breaks the force of the swell ; it
is steep-to on all sides, and must be carefully avoided. A good mark
for Sonsonate Road is the volcano of Isalco, about 18 miles to the north-
eastward, which cannot be mistaken as it almost constantly smokes. Here
it is high water on the days of full and change at 2h. 25m. P.M., with a
rise of tide of nine feet.
M. Marie says of this port : — " If you bring Isalco to bear N.E. J N.,
and steer in that direction, you will make this port. The custom-house,
magazines, and the huts of the village are situated on a height that over-
looks the plain, but are not distinctly visible, being surrounded by trees ;
yet, at the distance of four miles, the harbour flag-staff and a shed with a
tiled roofing on the sea-beach, can be distinctly seen. The port is also
recognised by being situated at the termination of a range of rocks, and
where the beach is sandy. The following are good marks for anchoring
in summer, in eight fathoms, mud : —
Point Remedies S.E.
The flag-staff on with the inner angle of the custom-house store.
Mount Isalco N.E. \ N.
and in winter, in 12 to 14 fathoms, mud : —
Mount Isalco N.E. | N.
Point Remedies S.E. £ E.
The flag-staff in one with the west wall of the custom-house store.
Landing in this place is difficult, and it is even imprudent to attempt
to pass the breakers in a small boat. You ought to have a good whale
boat ; and, in order to prevent accidents, it should be manned by a
competent crew ; and not attempt a landing when the sea is rough.
Merchant-vessels load and discharge their cargoes by means of
bongos, or large craft, in the shape of whale boats, which get on and off
the beach in the following manner : — They let go a heavy kedge at about
150 fathoms from the beach, with a good warp attached to a well-
secured tackle on shore, which ought to be kept well taut, and in a
line perpendicular with the direction of the surf. To this a large buoy
is attached, at about 20 fathoms from the anchor, for which you steer on
leaving the ship. On reaching the buoy, take care to get hold of the
warp, and lay it over the stem and stern of the boat ; by means of which
you will haul the boat or shallop close to the breakers, and watch a
smooth, availing yourself of it to haul the boat quickly on the beach,
where, if kept end on, you may load or discharge in safety.
There is a place at Acajutla, called Muelle, where landing, at high
water, is comparatively easy. You keep you boat on her oars, until a
smooth and favourable moment offers for landing. It is a good mile to
the village, and is rather fatiguing in summer."
D
34 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
From Sonsonate Road the coast runs to the north-westward, about 55
miles, to Port Istapa, or Ystapa, which is an open roadstead similar to
Sonsonate. In clear weather the mountains of Guatemala are visible at
a considerable distance, and help much in making the land. When
leaving Sonsonate, keep along the coast at a moderate distance, until you
bring the volcano " Single-Peak " of Guatemala to bear N. by W. J W.,
in which direction Istapa bears from the anchorage. The anchorage is
abreast the magazine, in eight to ten fathoms water in summer, but in
12 to 13 fathoms in winter. It is high water on the days of full and
change at 2h., with a rise of tide of 10 feet.
The entrance of the river is about three miles westward from the
anchorage ; and, in consequence of the difficulty arid danger met with
in passing the bar, the landing of goods is effected on the open beach,
near the lagoon, which forms the old entrance. It used to be customary
to hoist a flag, coloured blue, white, and blue, horizontally, when a vessel
made her appearance, and to fire a gun ; perhaps the custom may be still
observed. The position of the port is lat. 13° 56' 30" N., and long.
90° 37' 30" W. Variation of the compass 8° 407 W. At 1 J mile from
the coast the depth of water is 15 fathoms.
GUATEMALA VOLCANOES, Point A, distant 70 miles, and B, SO miles.
From hence the coast trends round to the north-westward to the Gulf
of Tehuan tepee, and is but little known. There are many rivers which
have their outlet to the Pacific in this quarter, and there may be a few
secure harbours, but of these we have no description, except the follow-
ing by Captain P. Masters, of Liverpool, which is taken from the
Nautical Magazine, 1839, p. 805. It will be observed that Captain
Masters is sailing from west to east.*
" On entering the Gulf of Tehuantepec, near the shore, we found the
current setting to the W.S.W., 1J mile per hour. As the wind was
easterly and light, we made a stretch to the southward, and in lat. 15° N.
and long. 95° 30' W., I had the boat lowered and tried the current, and
* It is right to mention, that these observations do not agree with the charts, a
proof of their incorrectness. The whole coast is now under examination.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 35
found it setting S.S.E., one mile per hour. There had been a fresh
breeze from the eastward the day previously. The following afternoon
we were close in-shore, and found, as we approached the land, that the
current had gradually altered, and was setting to the W.S.W. We came
to an anchor the same evening in the Bay of Bamba, which is to the
south-west of Morro de Zipegua, the current setting to the W.S.W.,
nearly two miles per hour. After a fresh S.W. or southerly sea breeze,
the current close in-shore has run to the S.E., but this is not general, and
does not last a long time.
Whilst we were getting to the eastward in the Gulf of Tehuantepec,
we experienced a slight norther ; as we stretched off-shore it hauled into
the N.E. ; a disagreeable short sea arose, the wind blowing in gusts, and
the weather hazy.
Santa Cruz, port of Aguatulco, in lat. 15° 51' N. and long. 96° 17'
W.,* is very difficult to make. It is situated in a small bay, about half
a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in to the northward upwards of 1 1
mile. At the bottom of the bay is a sandy beach, and on its eastern side
are two huts which cannot be seen unless close in-shore. About three-
quarters of a mile, E.S.E., from the eastern point of the bay is the Piedra
Blanca, a reef of rocks extending east and west about a quarter of a mile.
The western part of the reef is about 40 feet high, and for about one-third
of its length it is of the same elevation, but the remaining two-thirds
to the eastward is low, and in places level with the water. When
abreast of it, and off shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the
coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irregularly-shaped
reef of rocks.
The anchorage in Santa Cruz is said to be good. It is well sheltered
from all winds except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest
winds blow from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may be
considered a very safe port. It is the only place that can be considered
a harbour, to the eastward of Acapulco ; and even in the rainy season, I
was informed, a vessel might lay there in perfect security. The depth
of water in the bay is from seven to nine fathoms, with a clear bottom.
About three miles E.N.E. from Santa Cruz, is the island Tango-
latangola, separated from the main by a channel a quarter of a mile wide.
This makes from the westward as a part of the main land ; the outer part
of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish stone, the strata of which
are horizontal, and have the same geological appearance as the land on the
main nearest it towards the N.E., and of the same height, namely, about
150 feet. Within the island, and round the western side, is the entrance
* In the Admiralty Chart is a plan of the Port of Guatulco, which we presume is
the same, but its position is lat. 15° 44' 25" N. and long. 96° S' W., according to the
observations of Commander Sir E. Belcher, R.N.
36 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
of the Bay of Tangolatangola ; it runs in about N.E., 2 miles. At the
bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach. The anchorage is said to be
very good in it, but not equal to Santa Cruz. Its entrance is nearly a
mile across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom.
To the westward, half-a-mile from the head, which forms the western
part of the bay or harbour of Santa Cruz, is a bluff point or head, under
which is a good leading-mark for knowing the harbour. There is a cave
in one of the rocks, level with the water, and close in-shore, and every
swell that heaves in throws a quantity of water into it, and as the cave
has a small aperture in the upper part of it, the water flies up resembling
the spout of a large whale. It has often been taken for one by strangers,
and deceived us by its appearance. In the night time, or foggy weather,
when it is calm, or blowing a light breeze, the sound can be heard at
some distance, like a whale blowing. This place is called the Bufadero.
When about five miles off the shore from the Bufadero, the western
extreme point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so higli
as the land adjoining. When about two leagues off-shore from the
Bufadero, another cape, farther to the westward, can be seen. Its ex-
treme point is rather low, but rises gradually inland to a moderate
elevation.
To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when
abreast of, might be taken for islands. The first is about three miles
from the port ; the other is two miles further to the westward, and has a
white sandy beach on its western side. On the eastern side of the eastern
head there is also a small sandy beach, from which to the Bufadero the
coast is rocky. The land which crowns this part of the coast is covered
with stunted trees and brushwood* About four or five leagues N. 8° 30'
W. is the Cerro Zadan, having a bell-shaped top, and a ridge on the
north-east side connecting it with the higher range of the Cordilleras.
The Cerro Zadan is elevated above the sea rather more than 6,000 feet.
The mountains further inland, a few leagues, cannot be much short of
10,000 feet high, as they can be seen over the Cerro Zadan.
The Port of Aguatulco is so bad to make, that vessels have been
upwards of a fortnight in searching for it ; and it was by the greatest
chance possible that we had not passed it, although we were not 1J mile
from the shore. The two huts, which were on the beach, can scarcely be
distinguished from the trees near which they are built.
From Morro de Ystapa the coast runs about E.N.E. to Punta de
Zipegua, in lat. 16° 1' N. and long. 95° 28' 30" W. ; variation of the
compass 85° E. Between these points are several bluff headlands,
which do not project far out from the general line of the coast, and afford
no shelter. Punta de Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called
the Bay of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the west-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 37
ward, it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 400 feet high.
It projects out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, and forms a
kind of double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked
hill, with the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone, and quite bare of
vegetation. Further inland, between one and two miles, the ground
rises higher, in small hummocks, a few of which are quite bare, and
others have a small quantity of stunted trees and bushes scattered over
them.
The head, forming the western side of the Bay of Bamba, is not so
high, nor does it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It
is also covered with bushes. The eastern side of Punta de Zipegua is
covered with bushes and trees, the sand only showing through the soil in
very few places. When abreast of it, and off the shore from two to
eight miles, the current was running to windward W.S.W., from two and
a half to three miles an hour. About N.E.from Punta de Zipegua, four
or five miles, is a high reef of rocks called Piedra de Zipegua, or Macha-
guista, in the chart Island of Eschevan. Its greatest elevation is from
60 to 70 feet ; and its length is about one-third of a mile in an E.S.E.,
and W.N.W. direction. It is said that there are no dangers near it but
what can be seen. Between it and the main, from which it is about four
miles distant, in a N. W. direction, is good anchorage ; the best anchorage
is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef; they
are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of coast,
from Punta de Zipegua towards Tehuantepec, runs about N.E. by N.,
easterly.
As I had now passed to the northward and eastward of the position
where, by my instructions, I was led to believe our cargo was, we hauled
to the wind, with a fresh breeze from the southward, and made a tack or
two to fetch the Bay of Bamba. At 4h. P.M. we came to anchor abreast
the western part of the beach, in nine fathoms, sandy bottom, off-shore
one and a half mile. As soon as we anchored, I went on shore to ascertain
where the wood was cut for our cargo, and, with difficulty, got to speak
with an Indian, who was greatly alarmed at seeing such a large canoe (as
he called the brig), and thought we were come to plunder the coast. His
companion ran off to the woods, and he appeared likely to follow ; but,
when I got within speaking distance, regained his confidence, and replied
in answer to my enquiry — ' What made them afraid ? My companion,
who is gone, is afraid ; lam a valiant fellow !' He certainly appeared to have
the valour of a goose ; his heart was beating against his sides, as if they
would burst. We had not been many minutes together when he wanted
to go aboard, and engage himself as my servant, that he might see the
world ; but then, said he, ' I am in debt to my master, so I can't go.' It
is a common practice with the landholders of Mexico to get their work-
38 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
men in debt, particularly if he is a good man ; which secures their services
equally, or probably more than if they were slaves, as they are com-
pelled, if they have no cash , to work it out.
Shortly after I landed, the proprietor came down on horseback, and
stated that he believed there was some Brazil wood at a place called
Rosario, (in my instructions it was called St. Francis de Aguatulco), and
that Rosario was several leagues nearer Aguatulco. He said that ours
was the only vessel larger than a canoe, that had been on this part of the
coast for a great number of years. No vessel had ever loaded hereabouts.
The beach, or Playa de Bamba, is about five miles long, and must be very
bad to land on, with a fresh sea breeze. There was more surf on it when
we landed than was quite agreeable ; and the boat was half-filled, although
the wind was blowing along the coast. We remained at anchor until the
morning, and got under weigh with the land breeze, keeping at about half-
a-mile from the shore, excepting when abreast of the headlands. In the
evening we came again to an anchor, in nine fathoms, sandy bottom,
opposite a small sandy beach, one and a half mile from the shore ; having
seen nothing during the day like wood piled up, or anything in the shape
of a signal. In the morning we again got under weigh, and stood to the
westward ; and at lOh. A.M. were off the Port of Aguatulco. I sent the
boat on shore to enquire for the place where our cargo was lying ; an
Indian got into the boat, as they were shoving off, with the intention of
seeing the vessel ; from him I learned that we had passed it, and, as he
knew the place, I kept him on board, and made all sail, with the wind
S.W., for the place, and at 6h. P.M. came to an anchor in the Bay of
Rosario. The consignees came on board before we were at anchor, and,
by their talk, I expected to get loaded in a week; instead of which we lay
there three weeks before the canoes arrived, or before they were prepared
for shipping the wood off.
The Town of Aguatulco is eight leagues from the port, and this is the
only port in the state of Oajaca, where goods can be imported. Its com-
merce can be easily imagined, when the person who is administrador of
the customs, is also captain of the port, Sec. ; indeed he is the only
individual, both in the marine and custom-house departments, with the
exception of an old man, who lives at the port, and sends him informa-
tion when there is any arrival. Mexican vessels can load on the coast,
by having an order from any custom-house in the Republic, where they
may have touched at ; but foreign vessels are compelled to touch at Santa
Crux to pass the custom-house visit.
From the Island Tangolatangola to the Bay of Rosario there are
several small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general
line of coast, with the exception of Morro de las Salinas de Rosario.
]\Jost of them have a steep cliff facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. S9
between them, at the back of which are scattered a few small trees and
bushes ; the land rising in very irregular-shaped hills towards the Cordil-
leras. Abreast of the beaches, between the heads, I found the anchorage
quite clear ; and when in nine to twelve fathoms water, the distance off-
shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom.
The west side of the Bay of Rosario is formed by the Morro de las
Salinas de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° 5(X 25" N. and long. 96° 2' W. It
projects about a mile beyond the line of coast. On its western side is a
beach four or five miles in length to the next head. When abreast of
Morro de las Salinas, it appears like an island with two large rocks
abreast of its eastern and western part, but the whole is connected with
the main. What appears to be the eastern rock, is a broken rocky head,
about 160 feet high. The western is about half that elevation. Both
these heads terminate with a broken cliff; the tops of them are bare and
of a greyish colour, but the lower part is quite black, caused by the sea
breaking against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay, which
is at the foot of the Morro, and rises gradually from the beach to the top
of the hill, which is about 180 to 200 feet high, and presents a very barren
appearance, having but a few straggling bushes on it. The beach of
Rosario is 10 miles long, from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguna
Grande, which is its eastern extremity. About half the distance between
the Morros, is a rock on the beach, about 40 feet high, and nearly the
same diameter at spring tides. The water flows round it.
During the time of our lying in the Bay of Rosario, which was from
the 12th of February to the 1st of April, we had three smart northers,
which came on at the full and change of the moon. At this time the surf
runs very heavy on the beach. Our boat was capsized several times
while we lay here, in landing and coming off. At times the sea broke very
heavily in all parts of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on
shore, a few days after arriving here, during the first norther, which came
on suddenly, with a parching hot wind. A cross confused sea hove in
from the south and north-east. The wind must have blown strongly
out in the gulf, from the same direction ; and, though it blew heavily for
three days, with the wind at times to the westward of North, the sea kept
up until some time after the norther had ceased blowing. This is not
generally the case, for a strong norther (and particularly if it veers round
to N.N.W.,) beats the sea down ; at which time the landing is attended
with little or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two
northers. I was informed (and, judging from appearances, I think
correctly,) that very often when the wind is in N. or N.N.W., close
in-shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to land on
the coast. I remarked, whilst lying here, at the full and change of the
moon, and when no norther was blowing, that, although the surf ran so
40 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
high that no boat could land, the vessel lay without any motion. We
were moored at less than 300 fathoms from the shore. The surf appeared
not to be caused by a swell rolling in and agitating the sea at the surface,
but to rise from below, and without any apparent cause, as we had light
winds and fine weather the most of the time we lay here. On another
occasion, I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In
attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It
was then, and had been for a week previous, nearly a calm. The heavy
ground-swell invariably hove in from the S.S.W. We fortunately escaped
from this beach without losing a.ny of our people, which was more than I
expected, having had three laid up at different times, who were saved
from being drowned by a mere chance.
In addition to what has been said about this part of the coast, it can
be known by the low land at the back of the beach of Rosario, which
runs in from one to two and a half leagues before there is much rise in it,
and is thickly covered with trees. From north to north-west of Morro
de las Salinas, nearly two leagues from shore, the rising ground is formed
by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, at the place
where we loaded, the following bearings were taken, lying in 9§ fathoms,
sandy bottom. There are two large patches of a whitish appearance,
the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is the lowest, and
bore N. 59J0 W. The appearance cannot be seen, unless from a little to
westward of Morro de las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a
waterfall, and rises from the other patch in a N.W. direction, at about
an angle of 45°. It issues from a small valley in the Cerro del Chonga.
The highest point of this range has but a small elevation above it, and is
covered with trees. The waterfall inclines towards the south, and can be
seen for several hundred feet descending, before it is lost sight of amidst
the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore N. 89° W. ; the extreme
bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 36° W., three and a half miles ; the
eastern point well within the bearings, and Punta de la Laguna Grande,
N. 71° E., six to seven miles ; the rock on the beach, mentioned as
being 40 feet high, N. 65° E. ; and the galena or shed, under which the
cargo was piled, N. 26° W., half-a-mile.
At the western part of the bay are four palm-trees, close to the
beach. The distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half-a-mile,
and between these trees and the Morro is a larger cluster of palms.
Between these two clusters is, at all times, the best place to land ; as a
boat can beach here with comparative safety ; when, at every other part
of the bay, the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place
quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving in about every 10 or
15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to a boat, provided she is kept
end on.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 41
At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway
leads to cross the Morro de las Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the cliff of
a rock is a small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and
cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of
water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing
about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30
gallons ; and, after having landed all our water-casks, we had to re-ship
them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena, abreast
of the ship. We filled our water at a well about a mile from the beach,
but the supply was very limited, it being the only well that had water
in it up to the day of our sailing. We did not complete our stock.
A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here,
either with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ;
and, as water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one and
cutting the other, should be commenced immediately on arrival, by some
of the crew. It is useless to employ Indians to work1 for the ship (that
is, on shore), as the greatest part of them will neither be led or driven. On
board they answer better (that is, a few of them), to haul the wood about
in the hold. I found the promises of Indians, and, as they call themselves,
' Gente decente y civilazado,' on a par.
Near the Morro de la Laguna is a large lake, from which the headland
takes its name. A few miles farther, to the eastward, is the Morro de
Santiago de Ystapa (in the chart it is called Morro de Ayuta), near
which is the entrance of the small river Ayuta, the stream that runs by
Huamilulu and Ystapa. There is a bar across the entrance. The canoes
land on the beach in preference to going over it, as it is attended with
danger."
ACAPULCO is considered to be the finest harbour in Central America ;
and, for its size, one of the most complete in the world. It affords shel-
tered and land-locked anchorage of 16 fathoms, and under, in a surface of
one mile square ; which, allowing for moorings, would, at half-a-cable
range, or one cable asunder, accommodate 100 sail of vessels, even of the
line. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds
well.
All round the harbour, on every side, are high mountains, which, on
the north and east sides, range from 2,000 to 2,700 feet in height, and on
the west side from 300 to 500 feet. They afford considerable shelter to
the harbour, and may be seen at a great distance off at sea.
On the eastern side of the entrance of the port, just round Point
Diamond, off which a reef extends a short distance, the land bends
inwards about one and a half mile, and forms a small and secure harbour,
but open to all winds coming from the westward, called Port Marquis ;
in which are 13 to 19 fathoms, mud, sand, and rock. At the entrance of
V& SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the bay, on the north side, and at a short distance from the shore, is a
small island or rock, and at the head of the bay is a rock, having from
six to ten fathoms close to it ; these can be easily avoided.
On the western side of the Harbour of Acapulco, and without the
entrance, is an island about three-quarters of a mile long, called Griffin
Island, having, off its eastern and western extremities, reefs extending
to a short distance, and which, in parts, are above the water ; in other
respects the island is clear. About a quarter of a mile from the island,
there is a small islet or rock, called Le Morro, above the water, and
having outside it a depth of 20 fathoms. The passage between Griffin
Island and the shore is about -two cables' length wide, in its narrowest
part, and has a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms. It is called the Little Channel ;
while the channel between the east and west points of the harbour is
named the Great Channel.
The Town of Acapulco is on the west side of the port, and has long
been in a state of decline, owing to the bad custom-house regulations,
which cripple the energies of its merchants. Its market is but indif-
ferently supplied ; but fowls, and excellent fruit and vegetables, are
readily obtained. Its position, from observations taken at the fort by
Captain Beechey, is lat. 16° 50' 32" N. and long. 99° 50' 44" W.
In the north part of the bay are some rocks, called the San Lorenzo
Rocks, at a short distance from the shore, having between them and the
town the watering-place, where good water can always be obtained.
About half-a-mile to the eastward of the San Lorenzo Rocks is another,
called the Obispo, of a white colour, and about 60 feet high. Outside
these rocks are seven to ten fathoms.
In approaching the harbour, there are some hills to the north-westward,
named the Paps of Coyuca, which are considered to be good marks for it.
Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., has observed : — " I cannot persuade myself
that these Paps are useful for making the harbour, although in the offing
they may be if not obscured.
Acapulco may be approached from the southward or westward, by
keeping the western cone open of the land, which will lead up to the
Boca Chica entrance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee,
that no further marks are necessary. There is not any hidden danger
in the entrance to Acapulco. Keep a moderate distance from either
shore ; five fathoms will be found alongside all the rocks, and 25 to 30
in mid-channel. Round Point Griffin sharply, rather than stand over to
San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that shore. If
working, tack when the rocks on the south point of Town Bay show in
the gap.
The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; that outside is pre-
ferable, but in either case let the outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W.,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 43
so that a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea
breezes, and prevent a foul anchor.
It would naturally be inferred that, as the harbour is surrounded on
every side by high mountains, the breeze would scarcely be felt and the
heat be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits ; at our ob-
servatory, and at the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant breeze.
In all harbours there may be objectionable berths, but in that of
Acapulco, if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated
the ' West Gap,' or neck of the peninsula, open of the south point of the
town-bay, both land and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength,
and free from causes which would heat them before entering the port,
the neck being but a few feet above the sea-level.
Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort
and Obispo Rock ; but the two best streams are between the fort and
San Lorenzo."
The following remarks from the French chart of the harbour, the
proceeds of the survey made in 1838, by M. de Petit-Thouars, Com-
mander of the ' La Venus/ will be of interest : —
" The currents are not felt in the road, but, without they run to the
S.E. with a strength varying from a-half to two miles. This current is
more rapid during the ebb.
In the fine season, that is to say, from December to May, the land
and sea breezes are regular enough. They are feeble during the night,
coming from N. to N.E. and E. ; and from S.W. to W.S.W. and to
N.W. in the day. In the other months of the year this coast is danger-
ous, and but little frequented.
The usual anchorage is to the south of the fort, and before the town,
in 11 to 13 fathoms, muddy bottom; it is perfectly safe, In case of
necessity, anchorage can also be obtained in the Great Channel.
When a ship is in sight at night, a light is shown near the signal-
staff. The navigation is attended with so little danger, that there is no
pilot."
From hence the coast trends a little inwards, about 80 miles, to the
W. by N. | N., to Point Tequepa, on the eastern side of which is the
River Coyuquilla. We have no information of this part of the coast
until we get to Morro Petatlan, 20 miles further to the north-westward,
off which there are some rocks named the White Friars, from their sup-
posed resemblance to a cross. They have been described by Lord
Anson, in the following manner : —
" The hill of Petatlan may be at first mistaken for an island, although
it is in reality a peninsula, joined to the continent by a low and narrow
isthmus, covered with shrubs and small trees. The bay of Sihuatanejo
extends from this hill a great distance to the westward, and has, at its
44 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
entrance, just off the hill of Petatlan, an assemblage of rocks, white
with the dung of boobies and other tropical birds. Four of these rocks
are high and large, and, together with several smaller ones, are, by the
aid of a little imagination, made to resemble the form of a cross, and
hence are called the White Friars."
SIHUATANEJO, OR CHEQUETAN, is about seven miles to the west-
ward of Petatlan. It is a small but excellent harbour, of about a mile
in extent, and open to all winds coming from the south-west. At its
entrance are 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the head of the
bay, where there are two and a-half to one and a quarter fathoms. It
has been lately surveyed by Captain Kellett, R.N., who places it in lat.
17° 38' 3" N., and long. 101° SO' 52" W. Lord Anson has described it
in the following terms : —
" It is about 30 leagues to the westward of Acapulco, and may easily
be found by keeping well in with the land, especially if sailing down
the coast from Acapulco. There is a beach of sand extending 18 leagues
from Acapulco to the westward, against which the sea breaks so
violently that we found it impossible to land with our boats ; but yet
the ground is so clean, that, during the fair season, ships may anchor in
great safety, at the distance of a mile or two from the shore. The land
adjacent to this beach is generally low, full of villages, and planted with
a great number of trees. On the tops of some small eminences there are
several look-out towers, so that, altogether, the face of the country pre-
sents a very agreeable aspect ; for the cultivated part, which is the part
here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, where it
seems to be bounded by a chain of mountains, which extends a consider-
ble distance on either side of Acapulco.
The beach described above is the surest guide to those seeking
Sihuatanejo ; for five miles to the westward of the extremity of the
beach there is a hummock, which at first makes like an island, and is in
shape not much unlike the hill of Petatlan, though much smaller. Three
miles to the westward of this hummock, is a white rock near the shore,
which cannot easily be passed by unobserved. It is about two cables'
length from the shore, and lies in a large bay about nine leagues over,
the west point of which is the hill of Petatlan.
The harbour of Sihuatanejo is easily distinguished by a large rock,
one and a-half mile, S. \ W., from the middle of the entrance. I may
add that this coast is no ways to be dreaded between the middle of
October and the beginning of May, nor is there any danger from the
winds. In the remaining part of the year, there are frequent and
violent tornadoes, heavy rains, and severe gales, in all directions of the
compass.
These are the marks by which the harbour may be known by those
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 45
who keep well in with the land ; but there is no mark for those who
keep at a considerable distance at sea, who must, consequently, make it
by the latitude ; for there are so many ranges of mountains rising one
upon another inland, that no drawings of the appearance of the coast
can be at all depended on, every little change of distance or position
bringing new mountains into view, and producing an infinity of different
prospects, which render all attempts at delineating the appearance of
the land impossible.
The entrance of the harbour is but half-a-mile broad; the points
which form it, and which are faced with rocks almost perpendicular,
bearing from each other S.E. and N.W. The harbour is surrounded on
every side, excepting to the westward, with high mountains covered with
trees. The passage in is very safe, on either side of the rock that lies
off the entrance, though we, both in going in and out, left it to the
eastward. The ground without the harbour is gravel mixed with stones,
but within is soft mud. It is necessary, when coming to an anchor, to
make a good allowance for a great swell, which frequently causes a great
send of the sea ; as, likewise, for the ebbing and flowing of the tide,
which we observed to be about five feet, and to set nearly east and
west.
The watering-place is at the head of the bay. During our stay it had
the appearance of a large standing lake, without any visible outlet into
the sea, from which it is separated by the strand. The origin of this
lake is a spring, which bubbles out of the ground nearly half-a-mile
inland. We found the water a little brackish, but more considerably
so towards the sea-side ; for the nearer we advanced towards the spring-
head, the softer and fresher it proved. This laid us under the necessity
of filling our casks from the farthest part of the lake, and occasioned us
some trouble ; and would have proved still more difficult, had it not
been for our particular management, which, on account of its convenience,
deserves to be recommended to all watering at this place. Our method
consisted in making use of canoes drawing but little water ; for, on
loading them with a number of small casks, they easily got up the lake
to the spring-head, and the small casks being there filled, were in the
same manner transported back to the beach, where were some of the
hands to put them into casks of a larger size.
Though this lake, during our visit, appeared to have no outlet to the
sea, yet there is reason to suppose that in the rainy reason it overflows
the strand and communicates with the sea, for Dampier speaks of it as a
large river. Indeed it is necessary that a vast body of water should be
amassed before it can rise high enough to overflow the strand, since the
neighbouring lands are so low that a great part of them must be covered
with water before it can run out over the beach."
46
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Inlat. 18° 15' N. and long. 103° 30' W. is Point and River Tejupan,
at the back of which the land rises to a great height, and forms two
peaks called the Paps. From hence the coast runs to the north-
westward nearly 80 miles to Manzanilla Bay, which is small but safe,
and affords good anchorage, well protected against the southerly winds
prevalent during the rainy season. In the summer-time it is rendered
very unhealthy by a large lake of stagnant water in its immediate neigh-
bourhood. This, together with myriads of musquitoes and sand-flies,
renders it scarcely habitable. There are no houses, men and families
living exposed under the trees.
Manzanilla Port is the main sea communication with the city of
Colima, 30 leagues inland, and which is said to contain about 30,000
inhabitants. It has been opened to foreign commerce for several years,
but has not been able to make much progress.
Inland, at the back of Manzanilla, is a very lofty mountain, called the
volcano of Colima, which is 12,003 feet high, and can be seen a great
distance at sea. Its position, determined by Captain Beechey, R.N., is
lat. 1S° 24' 42" N. and long. 103° 33' 1" W. The following rough sketch
of the volcano will give some idea of its form and appearance.
COLIMA VOiGANO, bearing N. 57° E., distant 35 leagues.
From Port Manzanilla the coast continues in the same direction, 40
miles, to Point Farallones, from whence it runs to the N.W. by N., 75
miles, to Cape Corrientes, in lat. about 20° 26' N. and long. 105° 39' 13"
W., which rises high in the interior.
CAPE CORRIENTES, bearing S. 31° E., 10 leagues.
From Cape Corrientes the coast runs N.E. by E. J E., a distance of
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 47
28 miles ; thereafter it runs northerly a distance of eight miles ; and
next to the west, a distance of 16 miles, to Punta Mita. Between Cape
Corrientes and Punta Mita, bearing about N. by E. § E. and S. by W.
§ W. from each other, is formed a deep bay, named Valle de Banderas
Bay. Off Punta Mita there are numerous rocky heads, to the eastward of
which, in the northern part of the bay, anchorage may be got, in from
six to eight fathoms. In the eastern part of the bay is the mouth of the
River Piginto ; and in the western portion, at the distance of four miles,
S.S.W., from Punta Mita, are two small islets, called the Marieta Islands,
surrounded by numerous rocky heads ; and to the westward of these, at
the distance of six miles, is a small island, rocky on the western side.
All this coast is but little known.
Care should be taken in the night-time to keep clear of a small cluster
of low rocks, which lie 22 miles to the N.N.W. of Cape Corrientes. Of
these Captain B. Hall says : — " We made them in lat. 20° 43' N., and
long. 105° 51' 4" W. Vancouver places them in lat. 20° 45' N., long.
105° 46' 55" W. ; an agreement sufficiently near." Vancouver describes
them as follows : — " Much to our surprise, in the afternoon we ap-
proached a small black rugged rock, or, more properly speaking, a
closely connected cluster of small rocks, which, though deserving of
attention, from their situation, and the safety of the navigation between
Cape Corrientes, St. Bias, and the Marias, yet they are not inserted in
either of the Spanish charts, nor do they appear to have been noticed by
any former visitor, with whose observations I have become acquainted.
The space they occupy does not appear to exceed the dimensions of a
large ship's hull, nor are they much higher. They are at a great dis-
tance from any land, and, so far as we could perceive in passing them,
at the distance of about half-a-league, the water near them appeared to
be deep in every direction. We could not gain soundings close round
them with the hand-line, nor did this small rocky group seem to be
supported by any bed of rock or shallow bank. The shores of the main
land, to the eastward of them, at the distance of about eight leagues,
appeared to be broken, and about ten miles within them are two
small islets. These rocks, according to our observations, lie from the
southernmost of the Marias, S. 36° E., at the distance of 12 or 13
leagues."
From Punta Mita the coast appears to run westerly, a distance of six
miles, and thereafter 34 miles, N. \ E., to the mouth of the Rio Custodies,
in which latter space lies Taltemba Bay, containing numerous rocky heads
in its northern part, and round the N.W. point to about the mouth of the
River Chila, eleven miles distant from the mouth of the Rio Custodies.
The land to the northward of this latter river runs out westerly, about
a mile, to a point, from which to Santa Cruz Point, the southern point
48
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
of the roadstead of San Bias, the bearing and distance are NN.E. \ E.
seven miles.
LAS TRES MARIAS.— These islands lie before the port of San
Bias, and are four in number, if the Isle San Juanito (low and tabling)
is included, which is not more than six miles distant from the northern-
most. There are many small rocks around them, whose heads just rise
above the water. These islands lie between 21° 16' and 21° 46' N.
LAS TRES MARIAS,
The Western Point of the Northern Island, bearing N. 50° E., three leagues.
The northernmost is the largest of the group, and is thirteen miles
long, and nine miles broad. It lies in a S.E. by E. and N.W. by W.
direction ; which is also nearly the line in which these islands lie from
each other. It is but moderately elevated, yet, notwithstanding, it may be
discerned at the distance of near 18 leagues. Its highest part is towards
the south, from whence it gradually descends and terminates in a long
low point at its north-west extremity. A small low detached islet, and
a remarkable steep, white, cliffy rock, lie off this point of the island,
whose shores are also composed, but particularly so on its south-west side,
of steep, white, rocky cliffs. Its south-eastern extremity, which likewise
descends gradually from the summit of the island, terminates also in a
low projecting point, with some rocks lying off from it. On either side
is a small bay ; that on the eastern side is bounded by a beach, alternately
composed of rocks and sand, and very probably good anchorage may be
obtained in it, if the bottom should be good, as it is protected against the
general prevailing winds. Between this island and Prince George's
Island, the next to the southward, is a passage about six miles wide,
with soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom, and appears to be
free from danger or interruption.
Prince George's Island is about 24 miles in circuit, and is bounded on
its south-west side by detached rocks, lying at a small distance from its
shores. The shores, in general, but more so on its northern and eastern
sides, descend gradually from the centre of the island (whose summit is
nearly as high as that of the northernmost island), and terminate at the
water-side in a fine sandy beach. This island is more verdant than the
other, as its vegetable productions extend from the more elevated parts
THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 49
to the wash of the sea, and grow with some luxuriance, although its soil
is principally of a sandy nature. The chief valuable production is
lignum vitae ; besides which is an almost impenetrable thicket of small
trees and bushes of a thorny nature, together with the prickly pear,
and some plants of the orange and lemon tribe ; the whole growing as
close to the water-side as the wash of the surf would permit. A variety
of fish, common to the tropical regions, abound about the shores.
The south-easternmost island is about nine miles round.
In navigating round these islands, some detached islets and rocks are
visible about the shores, but all are sufficiently conspicuous to be
avoided ; and there is every reason to believe, from the regularity of the
soundings, that secure anchorage may be obtained against the prevailing
winds, at a commodious distance from the shore.
Of these islands, Captain Beechey says : —
" The Tres Marias, situated 1° 15' west of San Bias, consist of three
large islands, steep and rocky to the westward, and sloping to the east-
ward, with long sandy spits. Off the S.E. extremity of Prince George's
Island (the centre of the group), we found that the soundings decreased
rapidly from 75 fathoms to 17 ; and that, after that depth they were
more regular. Two miles from the shore we found 10 and 12 fathoms,
bad holding-ground. There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel
to anchor at these islands. Upon Prince George's Island there is said
to be water of a bad description ; but the landing is in general very
hazardous.
There are passages between each of these islands. The northern
channel requires no particular directions ; that to the southward of
Prince George's Island is the widest and best ; but care must be taken
of a reef lying one-third of a mile of its S.W. point, and of a shoal
extending one and a half mile off its south-eastern extremity. I did not
stand close to the south Maria, but could perceive that there were
breakers extending full three-quarters of a mile off its S.E. extremity ;
and I was informed at San Bias, that some reefs also extended from two
to four miles off its south-western point. There is an islet off the north-
west part of this island, apparently bold on all sides : but I cannot say
how closely it may be approached."
If the Tres Marias Islands be passed to the south-eastward, at the
distance of eight or ten leagues, and a N.N.E. course steered, Piedro de
Mer, off San Bias, will be readily got sight of. The Piedro de Mer is a
white rock, about 130 feet high, and 140 yards in length, with 12
fathoms all round it ; and bears from Mount San Juan, to the eastward of
San Bias, N. 77° W., 30 miles. This rock is situated in lat. 21° 34' 45" N.
and long. 105° 2S' 13" W., and, from its height, forms an excellent
land-mark.
50 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Having made Piedro de Mer, pass closely to the southward of it, and,
unless the weather is thick, you will see a similarly-shaped rock, named
Piedro de Tierra, for which you should steer, taking care not to go to
the northward of a line of bearing between the two, as there is a shoal
which stretches to the southward from the main land. This course will
be S. 79° E. true, and the distance between the two rocks is very nearly
10 miles..
SAN BLAS. — To bring up in the road of San Bias, round the Piedro
de Tierra, at a cable's length distance, and anchor in five fathoms, with
the low, rocky point of the harbour bearing N. £ E., and the two
Piedros in one. This road is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W.
to N.N.W., and ships should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in
the months in which the northerly winds are settled. Should the wind
veer to the westward, and a gale from that quarter be apprehended, no
time should be lost in slipping and endeavouring to get an offing, as a
vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and the holding-ground is very bad.
In case of necessity, a vessel may cast to the westward, and stand between
the Piedro de Tierra and the Fort Bluff, in order to make a tack to the
westward of the rock ; after which, it will not be necessary again to
stand to the northward of a line connecting the two Piedros.
The road of San Bias should not be frequented between the months of
May and December, as, during that period, the coast is visited by storms
from the southward and westward, attended by heavy rains, and thunder
and lightning. It is, besides, the sickly season, and the inhabitants
having all migrated to Tepic, no business whatever is transacted at the
port.
It is high water at San Bias at 9h. 41m., full and change ; rise between
six and seven feet, spring tide.
Captain Masters says : — " In the rainy season, when the wind blows
strongly from the southward, a heavy swell sets in at San Bias ; and, as
there is nothing to protect the anchorage, it must be felt very severely ;
but I never heard of any damage having been done to the shipping in
consequence.
There are some advantage in a vessel lying outside in the roads during
the rainy season, for there the crews have purer air to breathe ; and,
probably, it might be more healthy than that of the port, besides
being partially clear of mosquitoes, and other tormentors of the same
cast, which are very numerous.
There are 13 feet water on the bar of San Bias, in the shallowest part
of the entrance, and very seldom less even in the neaps. By giving the
point which forms the harbour a berth of 15 or 20 fathoms, you will
avoid a large stone, which is awash at low water, and is about eight
fathoms from the dry part of the rocks or breakwater. As soon as you
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 51
are so far in, that the innermost or eastern part of the breakwater is in a
line with the other part of it inside, which runs to the N.N.E., it may be
approached to within 10 or 15 fathoms, and by keeping well off from
the low sandy point, which is on the starboard hand as you warp up the
harbour, you will have the deepest water. But, as the sea sometimes in
the rainy season (although but seldom) breaks over the breakwater
which forms the harbour, it would be best to moor close under the high
part of the land on which the old ruin of a fort stand, with the ship's
head up the river, and a bower laid off to the eastward, and an anchor
from the starboard quarter, making fast on the port side to the shore,
either by taking an anchor out or making fast to the rocks. It would
be next to impossible that any accident could happen to the ship."
The following notes, made on a passage to the port of San Bias, are
by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N. : —
" Supposing a vessel, bound to the western coast of Mexico, safely
round Cape Horn, and running before the southerly gale which almost
constantly blows along the shores of South America, she ought to shape
a course so as to cross the equator in about 98° or 99° W. long., so that
when she gets the N.E. trade she will be at least 6° or 7° to the east-
ward of her port, — San Bias or Mazatlan ; and have at the same time a
sufficient offing from the Galapagos Islands to avoid their currents and
variable winds.
We crossed in 105° W. long., having been recommended to do so by
some old merchants at Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a
remarkably fast-sailing ship, a lamentably long time making the distance.
Several days' log of the ship show as follow : —
March 24th San Bias 672 miles distant
„ 25th „ 646
„ 26th „ 657
Our track led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port, when
we got the trade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were con-
stantly increasing our distance, until in the latitude of San Bias, when
an in shore tack, of course, shortened it. But, by the course I have
recommended, the first of the N.E. trade will drive the vessel into the
meridian of her port, and she will thus daily decrease her distance.
Care must be taken in standing in for the land not to go to leeward
of San Bias, as there is a strong southerly current along the coast,
especially off Cape Corrientes. If possible keep San Bias on an E.N.E.
bearing. The Tres Marias Islands, off the port of San Bias, are con-
venient points for making ; and here a master could leave his vessel in
perfect safety to water, while he communicated with his consignees, or
got his overland letters from his owners at home. There is a safe mid-
52 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
channel course between the middle, and southern islands : we brought a
saddle-shaped hill on the main, a little south of San Bias, one point
open of the south island, and steered by compass N.E. by E.
The Two Piedro Brancos, that of de Mer and de Tierra, are excel-
lent marks for the roadstead, which, by Beechey, is in lat. 21° 32'
20" N., long. 105° 15' 15" "W. A good anchorage for vessels awaiting
orders (for which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except
by English men-of-war, and Yankee clippers for smuggling purposes),
will be found with Piedro Branco de Mer, N. 70° W. ; de Tierra, N.
43° W. ; and village in the Estero, N. 26° W.
Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Bias has very
much changed. Its population of 20,000 have dwindled to 3,000
residents, and their unwholesome appearance, fully accounts for the
decrease of residents ; and nearly all its trade has been transferred to its
rival — Mazatlan.
The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned
by an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries,
and a cargo or two of cotton ; which petty trade is carried on during the
six healthy months in the year. A great deal of smuggling is carried
on from the neighbourhood of this port, the extensive bay, to the south-
ward, affording great facilities to the men-of-war's boats in that
employment.
The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, almost per-
pendicular to seaward, and its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-
house ; but this being about three-quarters of a mile distant from the
beach, a large assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place,
in the Estero del Arsenal, for the convenience of supplying the shipping ;
the occupants being, for the most part, grog-venders, fishermen, and an
agent to the harbour-master.
In the Estero del Arsenal, small craft, of less than 10 feet draught,
will find convenient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The
watering-place is, at least, three miles distant from the above anchorage ;
and to assist the boats in this heavy work, it would always be advisable
to shift the vessel into such a position that they might make a fair wind
off and on whilst the daily sea-breeze blows.
The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay,
south of San Bias ; the beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled three
or four hundred yards through the jungle to a stream of water. This
stream, during the spring tides, is liable to be found brackish ; but even
then we succeeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask
with the bung in such a position that only the fresh water (which, of
course, would be on the surface), could enter.
By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 53
could go under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily 32 tons
of water.
Many useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for
the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vitse. Fresh beef we
found good in quality. Game moderately plentiful ; oysters good and
plentiful ; vegetables scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed
up by the word execrable.
On the 1st of November, the dry season commences; the temperature
rises steadily, arid the land yields all its moisture, until, by the month of
May, the heat of the atmosphere resembles that of an oven, and the air
swarms with musquitoes and sandflies. The sky cloudless, the land and
sea-breeze regular, but not refreshing.
Early in June, heavy banks of dark, lowering clouds, charged with
electricity, collect on the high lands in the interior, lowering masses of
clouds hang to seaward. The change is fast approaching, and before the
16th of June the rains commence and deluge the land, accompanied by
heavy squalls and a tumbling swell from seaward. All vessels now leave
the coast unless able to take shelter in the Estero ; though of late, men-
of-war, in eager search for freight, have held on, and found that the gales
do not, in the winter, ' blow home.' At this season all the inhabitants,
whose means afford it, quit the coast for the interior.
For the first month, or six weeks, the parched land absorbs the rain ;
but, by the middle of August, it becomes moist and swamp ; the haunts
of alligators and aquatic birds. In September the action of the sun on
water-soddened land, generates fever of the most violent nature, and it
behoves those who arrive early in the dry season to be careful of exposure
to the malaria."
General Remarks on the Coast. — Captain Basil Hall, R.N., makes
the following observations on the winds and weather, and navigation of
the south-west coast of Mexico : —
" On the south-west coast of Mexico, the fair season, or what is called
the summer, though the latitude be north, is from December to May
inclusive. During this interval alone it is advisable to navigate the
coast; for, in the winter, from June to November inclusive, every part
of it is liable to hard gales, tornadoes, or heavy squalls, to calms, to
constant deluges of rain, and the most dangerous lightning ; added to
which, almost all parts of the coast are, at this time, so unhealthy as to
be abandoned by the inhabitants. At the eastern end of this range of
coast, about Panama, the winter sets in earlier than at San Bias, which
lies at the western end. Rains and sickness are looked for early in
March at Panama ; but at San Bias rain seldom falls before the 15th of
June; sometimes, however, it begins on the 1st of June, as we ex-
perienced. Of the intermediate coast I have no exact information,
54 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
except that December, January, and February are fine months every-
where; and that, with respect to the range between Acapulco and
Panama, the months of March, April, and half of May, are also fine ; at
other times the coast navigation may be generally described as dangerous,
and on every account to be avoided.
From December to May inclusive, the prevalent winds between
Panama and Cape Blanco de Nicoya are N.W. and northerly. From
thence to Realejo and Sonsonate, N.E. and easterly. At this season,
off the Gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec there blow hard gales, the
first being generally N.E., and the latter N. These, if not too strong,
as they sometimes are, greatly accelerate the passages to the westward ;
they last for several days together, with a clear sky overhead, and a
dense red haze near the horizon. We experienced both in the Conway
in February, 1822. The first, which was off Papagayo on the 12th,
carried us 230 miles to the W.N.W. ; but the gale we met in crossing
the Gulf of Tehuantepec on the 24th, 25th, and 26th, was so hard that
we could show no sail, and were drifted off to the S.S.W. more that 100
miles. A ship ought to be well prepared on these occasions, for the
gale is not only severe, but the sea, which rises quickly, is uncommonly
high and short, so as to strain a ship exceedingly.
From Acapulco to San Bias, what are called land and sea breezes
blow ; but, as far as my experience goes, during the whole of March,
they scarcely deserve that name. They are described as blowing from
N.W. and W. during the day, and from N.E. at night ; whence it might
be inferred, that a shift of wind, amounting to eight points, takes place
between the day and night breezes. But, during the whole distance
between Acapulco and San Bias, together with about 100 miles east of
Acapulco, which we worked along, hank for hank, we never found, or
very rarely, that a greater shift could be reckoned on than four points.
With this, however, and the greatest diligence, a daily progress of from
30 to 50 miles may be made.
Such being the general state of the winds on this coast, it is necessary
to attend to the following directions for making a passage from the
eastward : —
On leaving Panama for Realejo or Sonsonate, come out direct to the
north-westward of the Isla del Rey ; keep from 20 to 30 leagues off the
shore as far as Cape Blanco de Nicoya ; and on this passage advantage
must be taken of every shift of wind to get to the north-westward.
From Cape Blanco hug the shore, in order to take advantage of the
north-easterly winds which prevail close-in, If a papagayo (as the
strong breeze out of that gulf is called) be met with, the passage to
Sonsonate becomes very short.
From Sonsonate to Acapulco, keep at the distance of 20, or, at most,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 55
30 leagues from the coast. We met with very strong currents running
to the eastward at this part of the passage ; but whether by keeping
farther in, or farther out, we should have avoided them, I am unable to
say. The above direction is that usually held to be the best by the old
coasters.
If, when off the Gulf of Tehuantepec, any of the hard breezes, which
go by that name, should come off, it is advisable, if sail can be carried,
to ease the sheets off, and run well to the westward, without seeking to
make northing ; westing being, at all stages of that passage, by far the
most difficult to accomplish. On approaching Acapulco, the shore
should be got hold of, and the land and sea breezes turned to account.
This passage in summer is to be made by taking advantage of the
difference in direction between the winds in the night and the winds in
the day. During some months, the land winds, it is said, come more off
the land than at others, and that the sea breezes blow more directly on
shore ; but in March we seldom found a greater difference than four
points ; and, to profit essentially by this small change, constant vigilance
and activity are indispensable. The sea breeze sets in, with very little
variation as to time, about noon, or a little before, and blows with more
or less strength, till the evening. It was usually freshest at two o'clock ;
gradually fell after four ; and died away as the sun went down. The
land breeze was by no means so regular as to its periods or its force.
Sometimes it came off in the first watch, but rarely before midnight,
and often not till the morning, and was then generally light and uncer-
tain. The principal point to be attended to in this navigatien is, to have
the ship so placed at the setting in of the sea breeze, that she shall be
able to make use of the whole of it on the port tack, before closing
too much with the land. If this be accomplished, which a little ex-
perience of the periods renders easy, the ship will be near the shore just
as the sea breeze has ended, and there she will remain in the best situa-
tion to profit by the land wind when it comes ; for it not only comes off
earlier to a ship near the coast, but is stronger, and may always be taken
advantage of to carry the ship off to the sea breeze station before noon
of the next day.
These are the best directions for navigating on this coast which I have
been able to procure : they are drawn from various sources, and, when-
ever it was possible, modified by personal experience. I am chiefly
indebted to Don Manuel Luzurragui, master attendant of Guayaquil,
for the information they contain. In his opinion, were it required to
make a passage from Panama to San Bias, without touching at any
intermediate port, the best way would be to stretch well out, pass to the
southward of Cocos Island, and then run with the southerly winds as
far west as 96° before hauling up for San Bias, so as to make a fair wind
5G SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
of the westerly breezes which belong to the coast. An experienced old
pilot, however, whom I met at Panama, disapproved of this, and said,
the best distance was 15 or 20 leagues all the way. In the winter
months these passages are very unpleasant, and it is indispensable that
the whole navigation be much further off shore, excepting only between
Acapulco and San Bias, when a distance of 10 to 12 leagues will be
sufficient.
The return passages from the west are always much easier. In the
period called here the summer, from December to May, a distance of
30 to 50 leagues ensures a fair wind all the way. In winter, it is
advisable to keep still further off, say 100 leagues, to avoid the calms,
and the incessant rains, squalls, and lightnings, which everywhere prevail
on the coast at this season. Don Manuel Luzurragui advises, during
winter, that all ports on this coast should be made to the southward
and eastward, as the currents in this time of the year set from that
quarter.
If it were required to return direct from San Bias to Lima, a course
must be shaped so as to pass between the Island of Cocos and the
Galapagos, and to the south-eastward, till the land be made a little to
the southward of the equator, between Cape Lorenzo and Cape St.
Helena. From thence work along-shore as far as Point Aguja, in
lat. 6° S., after which work due S., on the meridian of that point, as far
11|°S., and then stretch in-shore. If the outer passage were to be
attempted from San Bias, it would be necessary to run to 25° or 30° S.
across the trade, which would be a needless waste of distance and
time.
Such general observations as the foregoing, on a navigation still im-
perfectly known, are perhaps better calculated to be useful to a stranger
than detailed accounts of passages made at particular seasons. For,
although the success of a passage will principally depend on the navi-
gator's own vigilance in watching for exceptions to the common rules,
and on his skill and activity in profiting by them, yet he must always be
materially aided by a knowledge of the prevalent winds and weather.
As many persons, however, attach a certain degree of value to actual
observations made on coasts little frequented, although the period in
which they may have been made be limited ; I have given in the two
following notices, a brief abstract of the Conway's passages from Panama
to Acapulco, and from Acapulco to iSan Bias. The original notes from
whence they are taken are too minute to interest any person not actually
proceeding to that quarter of the world.
Panama to Acapulco. — 5th of February to 1th of March, 1822 (30
days). — We sailed from Panama on the 4th of February, and anchored
on that afternoon at the Island of Taboga, where we filled up our water.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 57
Next evening, the 5th, we ran out of the bay with a fresh N.N.W. wind,
and, at half-past two in the morning of the 6th, rounded Point Mala,
and hauled to the westward. As the day advanced, the breeze slackened,
and drew to the southward. In 24 hours, however, we had run 140
miles, and were entirely clear of the bight of Panama. It cost us nearly
six days more before we came abreast of Cape Blanco de Nicoya ; at
first we had light winds from S.S.W., then a moderate breeze from
N.N.W., which backed round to the eastward, and was followed by a
calm : during each day we had the wind from almost every point of the
compass, but light and uncertain. Between the llth and 12th, we
passed Cape Blanco de Nicoya, with afresh breeze from S.S.E. and then
S.S.W., which shifted suddenly to the northward, afterwards to the
N.N.E., where it blew fresh for upwards of 24 hours, and enabled us to
run more than 230 miles to the W.N.W. in one day. This breeze,
which is known by the name of papagayo, failed us after passing the
gulf of the same name, and we then came within the influence of adverse
currents. On reaching the longitude of 92° W., on the 16th, we were
set S. 16°. W., 77 miles ; on the 17th, N. 16 miles ; on the 18th, E. 51
miles; on the 19th, S. 78°. E., 63 miles; on the 20th, S. 62°. E., 45
miles; on the 21st, S. 87°. E., 17J miles ; all of which we experienced
between 91° and 93° W., at the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the
shore ; meanwhile we had N.N.E. and northerly winds, and calms.
After these currents slackened, we made westing as far as 93 1°, by
help of N.N.E. and easterly winds. On the 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, we
were struggling against north-westerly winds off Guatemala, between
14° and 15J° north latitude. This brought us up to the top of the bay
of Tehuantepec at sunset of the 24th ; we then tacked and stood to the
westward. The weather at this time looked threatening ; the sky was
clear overhead, but all round the horizon there hung a fiery and por-
tentous haze, and the sun set in great splendour ; presently the breeze
freshened, and came to north by west, and before midnight it blew a
hard gale of wind from north. This lasted, with little intermission, till
six in the morning of the 26th, or about 30 hours. There was, during
all the time, an uncommonly high short sea, which made the ship ex-
tremely uneasy. The barometer fell from 29*94 to 29*81, between noon
and four o'clock, P.M., but rose again as the gale freshened ; the
sympiesometer fell twelve-hundredths. This gale drove us to the S.W.
by S., about 140 miles. A fine fresh breeze succeeded from N.N.E.,
which carried us 120 miles towards Acapulco, and left us in longitude
97|° W. and latitude 15° N., on the 27th. This was the last fair wind
we had on the coast, all the rest of our passage, as far as San Bias, being
made by dead beating. The distance from Acapulco was now less than
180 miles, but it cost us eight days' hard work to reach it, principally
58 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
owing to a steady drain of lee-current running E. by S., at the following
daily rates, viz., 13, 16, 27, 37, 25, 10, 9, 7, and 9 miles. The winds
were, meanwhile, from N.W. to N.N.W., with an occasional spurt from
S.E. and S., and several calms. We had not yet learned the most
effectual method of taking advantage of the small variation between the
day and night winds.
Acapulco to San Bias.— 12th to 28th of March, 1822 (16 days). —
This passage was considered good for the month of March, but in the
latter days of December, and first of January, an English merchant made
it in 10 days, having a fair wind offshore nearly all the day. A mer-
chant brig, which passed Acapulco on the 6th of February, at the
distance of 150 miles, was a fortnight in reaching Cape Corrientes, and
nearly three weeks afterwards getting from thence to San Bias, a distance
of only 70 miles. There is, however, reason to believe that the vessel
was badly handled.
It would be useless to give any more detailed account of this passage
than there will be seen in the preceding remarks. We generally got the
sea breeze about noon, with which we laid up for a short time W.N.W.,
and then broke off to N. W., and so to the northward, towards the end
of the breeze, as we approached the coast. We generally stood in within
a couple of miles, and sometimes nearer, and sounded in from 15 to 25
fathoms. If the breeze continued after sunset, we made short tacks, in
order to preserve our vicinity to the land, to be ready for the night wind;
With this we generally lay off S.W., sometimes W.S.W. and W., but
only for a short time. After passing latitude 18°, the coast trended
more to the northward, and a much larger leg was made on the port
tack, before we were obliged to go about. As we approached Cape
Corrientes, in latitude 20°, the land winds became more northerly, and
the sea breezes more westerly ; so that, as the coast also trended off the
northward, a more rapid advance was made.
On passing Cape Corrientes, the Tres Marias Islands came in sight ;
and, if they be passed to the south-eastward, at the distance of eight or
ten leagues, and a N.N.E. course steered, Piedro Branco de Mer, off San
Bias, will be readily got sight of. This is a round, bold, white rock, in
lat. 21° 34f N. and long. 105° 32f W., and being 130 feet high, forms
an excellent land-mark. It lies exactly 11| of a mile nearly due west
from the harbour of San Bias, which is pointed out by another white
rock, bearing S. 83° E. from the former. Close round this last rock,
called Piedro de Tierra, on the eastern side, lies the anchorage. The
coast between Cape Corrientes and San Bias is full of deep and danger-
ous rocky bights. It is little known, and ought not to be approached.
Care should also be taken, in the night-time, to keep clear of a small
cluster of low rocks, which lie 22 miles to the N.N.W. of Cape Cor-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 59
rientes. We made them in lat. 20° 43' N. and long. 105° 51' 4" W.
Vancouver places them in lat. 20° 45' N., long. 105° 46' 55" W. ; an
agreement sufficiently near. Our difference of longitude was ascertained
by chronometers next day from San Bias, where the longitude was after-
wards determined by the occultation of a fixed star.
During our stay at San Bias, from the 28th of March to the 1 5th of
June, we had light land-winds every night, and a moderately fresh breeze
from west every day, with the thermometer always above 80°.
Towards the end of the period, the sky, which had been heretofore
clear, became overcast ; the weather lost its former serene character,
becoming dark and unsettled; and, on the 1st of June, the periodical
rains set in with great violence, accompanied by thunder and lightning,
and fresh winds from due south. This was nearly a fortnight earlier
than the average period. The heat and closeness of the weather increased
greatly after the rains set in ; but although our men were much exposed,
no sickness ensued, excepting a few cases of highly inflammatory fever.
The town was almost completely deserted when we came away; the
inhabitants having, as usual, fled to Tepic and other inland towns, to
avoid the discomfort and sickness which accompany the rains.
As soon as the rains subside, in the latter end of October, or beginning
of November, the people return, although that is the period described as
being most unhealthy, when the ground is still moist, and the heat of the
sun not materially abated.
The coast from San Bias runs N.W. J N. a distance of about 120
miles. From San Bias to Mazatlan the coast is low (excepting near the
entrance of Tecapan) and covered with trees, and is clear of all danger.
About a mile from the shore, between Tecapan and Mazatlan, the
soundings vary from 9 to 12 fathoms, fine sand. On the bar of Tecapan
the water is very shallow, and in general breaks. The soundings increase
gradually between San Bias and Mazatlan to 30 fathoms at 20 miles
from the coast.
There is no danger whatever on the coast between Piedro de Mer and
Mazatlan ; the lead is a sure guide. The Island of Isabella in lat. 21°
51' 15"N. andlong. 105°52'3" W., is high and steep, and has no danger
at the distance of a quarter of a mile. It is a small island, about a mile
in length, with two remarkable needle rocks lying near the shore to the
eastward of it.
Beating up along the coast of Sonora, some low hills, of which two or
three are shaped like cones, will be seen upon the sea-shore. The first of
these is about nine leagues south of Mazatlan, and within view of the
island of El Creston, which forms the port of Mazatlan. A current sets to
the southward along this coast, at the rate of 18 or 20 miles a day.
MAZATLAN.— Mazatlan is a port very easily made. It is formed
60 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
by a cluster of islands, to the southward of which is a long line of beach,
with low land thickly covered with trees, running several miles in before
it reaches the foot of the mountains, and continues the same as far to the
southward as the north side of the bar of Tecapan, where the land is
high. Its position is lat. 23° 1 V 40" N., and long. 106 22' 24" W.
The port of Mazatlan at its entrance, is formed by the island of
El Creston on its western, and the island of Vienado on the southern
side. From the sea the former has nearly a regular ascent, the length of
the island lying from east to west, where it terminates in an abrupt
precipice, and is covered with small trees. It has from 8 to 10 fathoms
water to within a few fathoms of it. The island of El Vienado has a
very similar appearance, and is about half the height of El Creston Island,
being partially covered with trees. These islands can be seen several
miles before the land, at the back of the town, makes its appearance. The
outer rock is situated well outside the roadstead, and forms nearly an
equilateral triangle with the islands of El Creston and Vienado ; it is
about eight feet high, and nearly the same breadth, and from seven to
eight fathoms long from north to south ; there are five fathoms water
close to it.*
Within the port is a long sand, which extends out from the bottom of
it, a great part of which is dry at low water, and is shoal for some distance
to the south-east, extending nearly as far as the island El Vienado, with
a boat channel between it and the island. The inner anchorage is to the
westward of this sand. It is said that the bank is increasing, and that
the port has filled very much within a few years past.
North of the island El Creston, and between it and the main land, is
the Island of Gomer, which is low, and is separated from El Creston by a
narrow boat-channel. From about the middle of Gomez a bar extends to
the eastward across the port to the sand-bank already mentioned, on
which there are said to be several patches of shoal water when the water
was low, not having more than six feet on them. Inside the bar the
water deepens, and close up to the town, there are said to be from two and
a half to three fathoms, with a sandy bottom.
When the wind blows strong from the N.W., a short chop of a
sea heaves in between the Island of Gomez and Point Calandare,
although the distance they are apart is short, but by anchoring, as already
mentioned, opposite Creston, most of it is avoided.
In the rainy season it is very unsafe to lay inside, as gales come on
from the southward, which bring in a heavy sea. Vessels of all sizes
* It is right to mention that the above directions of Captain Masters do not
correspond in many important particulars with the recent survey of Captain Beechey,
R.N. The chart ought to be referred to as it will be found an invaluable assistance
to those visiting the port.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 61
anchor in this season in the outer roads between the islands and the outer
roads from which they can be got under weigh, and stand clear of the
coast.
To the northward of the present port of Mazatlan, about five miles, is
the N.W. port of Mazatlan, a fine bay, well sheltered from N.W. winds
by the Pajaros or Bird Islands. It was in the southern part of this bay
that vessels formerly discharged their cargoes, but the present port being
more secure, was established in its stead about thirty years since.
The river is said to extend about 30 miles from the port, and passes
within a few miles of the town of Mazatlan, where the custom-house
formerly was, but was removed to the present port a short time since,
and as all business is transacted at the town of Ragosa (commonly called
Mazatlan), the old town is fast falling to decay.
The watering-place for shipping is a small distance up a creek,
on the east side of the river. Wood for fuel can be had in abundance.
Captain Beechey says: —
" The anchorage at Mazatlan, at the mouth of the Gulf of California, in
the event of a gale from the south-westward, is more unsafe than that at
San Bias, as it is necessary to anchor so close to the shore, that there
is not room to cast and make a tack. Merchant-vessels moor here with
the determination of riding out the weather, and for this purpose go well
into the bay. Very few accidents, however, have occurred, either here
or at San Bias, as it scarcely ever blows from the quarter to which these
roads are open between May and December.
Having approached the coast about the latitude of 23° 11' N., Creston
and some other steep rocky islands will be seen. Creston is the highest
of these, and may be further known by two small islands to the
northward of it, having a white chalky appearance. Steer for Creston,
and pass between it and a small rock to the southward, and when
inside the bluff, luff up, and anchor immediately in about seven and
a half fathoms, the small rock about S. 17° E., and the bluff W. by
S. Both this bluff and the rock may be passed within a quarter of a
cable's length ; the rock has from 12 to 15 fathoms within 30 yards of it
in every direction. It is, however, advisable to keep at a little distance
from the bluff, to escape the eddy winds. After having passed it, be
careful not to shoot much to the northward of the before-mentioned
bearing (W. by S.), as the water shoals suddenly, or to reach
so far to the eastward as to open the west tangent of the peninsula
with the eastern point of a low rocky island S.W. of it, as that
will be near a dangerous rock, nearly in the centre of the anchorage,
with only 1 1 feet water on it at low spring- tides, and with deep water
all round it. I moored a buoy upon it, but should this be washed away,
its situation may be known by the eastern extreme of the before-
62 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
mentioned lo w rocky island, between which and Battery Peak, there
a channel for small vessels, being in one with a wedge-shaped pro-
tuberance on the western hillock of the northern island (about three miles
north of Creston), and the N. W. extremity of the high rocky island to
the eastward of the anchorage being a little open with a rock off the
mouth of the river in the N.E. The south tangent of this island will
also be open a little (4°), with a dark tabled hill on the second range
of mountains in the east. These directions will, I think, be quite
intelligible on the spot.
The winds at Mazatlan generally blow fresh from the N.W. in the
evening ; the sea-breeze springs up about ten in the forenoon, and lasts
until two o'clock in the morning.
It is high water at this place at 9h. 5 a.m., full and change, rise seven
feet spring tide.
GUAYM AS. — From Mazatlan the coast runs to the north-westward to
27° 53' 50'', the latitude of Port Guaymas, forming the eastern side of
the Gulf of California, and is almost entirely unknown. The Port of
Guaymas, in Lower California, was surveyed in 1840 by M. Fisquet, of
the French Navy, a copy of which is on our chart of the coast. It is
a small port about three miles in extent, and has numerous islands in
it, affording good shelter to vessels drawing from 12 to 15 feet water.
It is considered to be one of the best harbours in the gulf. The longitude
is 110° 49' 13" W., and variation 12° 4' E. The rise of tide is three and
a half feet at ordinary tides, but is dependent upon the winds, which,
when blowing strongly from the S.W., raise it to 10 and 11 feet.
This harbour was visited in 1826, by Lieut. Hardy, R.N., who says,
" The harbour is, beyond all question, the best in the Mexican dominions;
it is surrounded by land on all sides, and protected from the winds by
high hills. It is not very extensive, nor is the water above five fathoms
deep abreast of the pier; but there are deeper soundings further off.
It would shelter a large number of vessels. The entrance is defended
by the Island of Pajaros, on which, at the proper season of the year, is
found a prodigious quantity of eggs, deposited by gulls, so that
its surface becomes completely whitened by the vestiges which they
leave behind them.
During the dry season, the hills which surround the harbour present
a sterile appearance, truly unpleasing to the eye, and give but a bad idea
of the prosperity of the town ; while the size of the houses, the number
of its inhabitants, or the want of cattle in its neighbourhood, do not tend
to remove that impression.
The town is but a miserable place, that is, as far as regards the houses,
which are built of mud, having flat roofs, covered with mould, so that,
during a hard rain, the inmates may take a shower-bath without going
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 63
out of doors. The rafters are whole palm-trees ; and there is a large
kind of humble-bee which perforates them with the greatest ease, so that,
by degrees, these great bores, which serve the insect for a nest, so weaken
the rafters, that the lodger may sometimes find a grave without going to
the churchyard, the roof falling for want of due support, which has since
happened to the very house wherein we then resided."
The following notes made on a passage from San Bias to Mazatlan, are
by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N. : — "Leave San Bias with the first of the
land breeze, and after passing Piedro de Mer, endeavour to steer such a
course as to be enabled to make a good in-shore tack with the sea-breeze
on the morrow, taking care not to stand closer to the shore than eight
fathoms in a large vessel, or five fathoms in a smaller one ; or, should the
sea breeze be found to have much northing, stand well off, when a con-
tinued wind instead of the land and sea breezes will be obtained, and the
strong southerly set in-shore be avoided. The Collingwood made the in-
shore passage in April, 1846, and had light airs with frequent calms, being
generally too far off shore at night to benefit by the land breeze ; she
consequently was five days going 120 miles, whilst the Spy did it in two
and a half days by going well to seaward.
The misnamed port of Mazatlan is easily recognised by the two bluff
headlands which form the entrance to the river, the northern and more
conspicuous of the two, Creston, being an island, and affording a little
shelter from the northerly breezes which prevail from January to May.
To the westerly and southern breezes it is perfectly open, and has the
only recommendation of being good holding-ground. The coasters run
up the river off the new town of Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable
importance within a very recent period, notwithstanding the advantages
it labours under from the paucity of supplies, both animal and vegetable;
and from water being both bad and scarce.
Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the valuable mining
district of San Sebastian, and imports directly and indirectly large
cargoes of English goods. The general healthiness of the climate, as
compared with its more ancient neighbour San Bias, has materially
tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being built on
the crest of some heights, clear of mangrove and swamp, had an air of
cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in Spanish America.
Vessels must invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to the
W.S.W., and too close a berth to Creston Island is not advisable, as the
squalls sweep over it with great strength. The Collingwood drove,
though she had 50 fathoms on each cable.
Watering is attended with great risk at all times in this place, especially
at full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar,
formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of the river, and
64 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
a bank joining it from the south shore. Several boats and lives are
annually lost here. In pulling in care should be taken to cross the surf
pretty close to the middle ground ; and when through the first rollers, to
pull over to the south shore, and keep it on board up to the watering-
place. In coming out, no casks ought to be allowed in the head sheets,
every thing depending upon the buoyancy of the boat ; inattention to this
point, caused the loss of two lives, to my own knowledge.
The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a
low alluvial island, formed on a quicksand in the bed of the river ; none
of them are consequently more than ten feet deep. The water is by no
means sweet, being merely sea water, which undergoes a partial purifica-
tion in filtering through the soil.
Supplies of all sort come from the neighbourhood of San Bias ; and
as the bullocks are driven that long distance, and on arrival they are
instantly killed, from the want of grass, the beef is necessarily lean and
bad. Pork, fish, and oysters are however plentiful; vegetables are
scarce. The river abounds in turtle of excellent quality ; wood of
various descriptions, principally hard, was plentiful, and at a short
distance oak and cedar might be obtained.
Old Mazatlan, which lies about 20 miles up the river, was well known
to ancient navigators, as far back as 1587. " Master Thomas Cavendish
in the talle shippe Desire, 120 tons, refreshed his gallant company before
cruising off Cape Lucas, for a Spanish galleon; and Don Sebastian
Vizcaino, in an expedition to convert the Californians to the Catholic
faith, recruited his squadron in the Bahia de Mazatlan."
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 65
THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
CALIFORNIA was formerly subject to Spain, and afterwards to Mexico ; but
in 1848, the northern part of it, called Alta California, was annexed, by
treaty with Mexico, to the territories of the United States of North
America. The country is naturally divided into two parts, the Old
or Lower, and the New or Upper. Old California comprehends the long
peninsula, between the Gulf and the Pacific Ocean, and extends about
700 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 30 to 100, comprising
an area of about 38,000 square miles. A chain of rocky mountains, not
exceeding 5,000 feet in height, runs through it from south to north ; and
the surface of the country consists of groups of bare rocks, broken by
ravines and hills, interspersed with barren sandy tracts, forming altogether
one of the most barren and unattractive regions within the temperate
zone. The climate is excessively dry and hot, and violent hurricanes are
frequent ; timber is very scarce, and the greater part of the country is
incapable of producing a single blade of corn. Some sheltered valleys
only produce maize, and a variety of fruits, as dates, figs, &c., which are
preserved and exported ; wine is also made, and a kind of spirit is dis-
tilled from the must. Cattle are somewhat numerous ; wolves, foxes,
deer, goats, snakes, lizards, and scorpions, are among the wild animals.
The pearl fishery in the gulf has been famed from its first discovery ; at
present, it produces annually pearls to the value of from 500 to 1000
dollars. Pearls, tortoise-shell, hides, dried beef, dried fruits, cheese, and
soap, constitute all the exports, which are mostly sent to Mazatlan and
San Bias in small coasting-vessels. The people are a feeble and indolent
set of Indians, whom the Jesuits have partially converted to Christianity;
but they are little advanced beyond the rudest stage of savage life, and
depend for their subsistence on hunting and fishing, with the spontaneous
produce of the soil.
Upper or New California extends from the Pacific Ocean to the Rocky
mountains; but the only tract inhabited by European settlers is the
narrow strip of land along the coast of the Pacific, which is bounded in-
ward by the maritine range of hills, at the distance of about 40 miles from
the sea. The surface of this region is very diversified, and consists of
F
'66 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
hills and plains of considerable extent ; along the coast there are several
good harbours, of which San Francisco, in lat. 38°, is one of the largest
and best on the west coast of America. The rainy season is in winter,
from November till February. During the rest of the year there is no
rain, but a few showers fall in some places. In summer the heat is very
great. The country offers, nevertheless, a striking contrast to the penin-
sula. There is a profusion of forest trees on the western side of the
mountains along the coast ; and many fine fruits are easily cultivated,
though few are indigenous. Among these is a species of vine, which pro-
duces grapes of considerable size, and so plentiful, that considerable quan-
tities of brandy are distilled from them. Among the wild animals are
reckoned the American lion and tiger, buffaloes, stags, roes, elks, bears,
wolves, jackals, wild cattle, foxes, polecats, otters, beavers, hares, rabbits,
&c. Birds of various kinds are exceedingly abundant. But the great
and most important article of produce is black cattle, the multiplication
of which has been really prodigious. In 70 years the number had
increased from 23 to 210,000 branded cattle, and probably 100,000 un-
branded ; and it is found necessary to slaughter 60,000 annually to keep
down the stock. Sheep have increased with nearly the same rapidity,
but are at present of little importance to the trade of the country.
Between the maritime chain and the rocky mountains is a dry or sandy
plain or desert, 700 miles in length, by 100 in breadth at its south end,
and 200 at the north, which is traversed by the Rivers Colorado and Gila,
and forms the eastern limit of the inhabited, and indeed only habitable
part of the country. The natives were a poor, filthy, pusillanimous set
of Indians, in the most primitive state of barbarism, except those who
have been converted nominally to Christianity, and who have been taught
a few of the simpler arts and practices of civilized life. These resided in
missions, where the men were employed in agriculture, or in the ware-
houses or workshops of the mission, while the women were occupied in
spinning, grinding corn, and other domestic duties. They were in fact
slaves to the monks who possessed the missions ; and the greatest part of
the land, and especially that to the south of Monterey, was in the hands
of the missionaries. Since the annexation to the United States, a most
extraordinary productive gold region has been discovered in the northern
part of Upper California, commencing near the mouth of the Sacramento
River, in 39° N. lat., about 100 miles N.E. of the Bay of San Francisco,
and extending up the main valley northwards, and into several side valleys
eastwards. Almost the whole population has taken to the " diggings,"
and the news of the discovery has attracted crowds of immigrants from
both America and Europe.
The earliest accounts we have met with of the discovery of gold in
California, are preserved in " Burney's Collection of Voyages in the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 67
Pacific." It has been asserted that the discovery was made in the middle
of the last century ; and, Capt. Shelvocke is also stated to have first
found it a century and a quarter ago. Burney has, however, preserved
an account, which we quote here of the discovery of it, by the early
Spaniards, in 1539, just 20 years after Cortez landed at Vera Cruz.
That the existence of the rich district was known, is, therefore, evident,
although its exact locality remained locked in secrecy, limited no doubt,
but not to those who had contemplated the Mexican war, and its intended
results. Burney has preserved the history of the journey of Friar Marcos
de Niza, containing the account to which we allude.
" From Petatlan, Friar Marcos de Niza, with his followers, travelled
along the coast, where people came to him from islands ; and, he saw
some that came from the land where the Marquis Cortez had been. At
the end of a desert of four days journey, he found Indians who had
not knowledge of the Christians, the desert obstructing communication
between them and the countries to the south.
" These people," says the friar, " entertained me exceeding courteously,
gave me great store of victuals, and sought to touch my garments, and
called me Hayota, which, in their language, signified 'a man come from
Heaven.' " — The principal motive of this undertaking, however, was not
one of a pious or spiritual nature. It was to spy out the land, whether it
was good or bad, and to bring of the fruit, that his countrymen might
know if they should go up and possess it.
" These Indians," says the friar, " I advertised by my interpreter, ac-
cording to my instructions, in the knowledge of our Lord God in Heaven,
and of the Emperor. I sought information of other countries, and they
told me that four or five days journey within the country, at the foot of
the mountain, there was a large plain, wherein were many great towns,
and people clad in cotton. I shewed to them metals which I carried with
me, to learn by them what rich metals were in the land. They took the
mineral of gold and told me that thereof were vessels among the people of
that plain ; that they had thin plates of gold, wherewith they scraped
off their sweat ; that the walls of their temples were covered therewith,
and that they used gold in all their household vessels.
" I sent Estevanico another way, and commanded him to go directly
northward, to see if he could learn of any notable thing which we sought
to discover ; and I agreed with him, that if he found knowledge of any
people, and rich country, which were of great importance, he should go
no further ; but should return in person, or send me tokens : to wit, if
it were a mean thing, he should send me a white cross, one handful long;
if it were a great matter, he should send me a great cross, &c."
Estevanico, in his new route, very soon received information concerning
DO , SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the seven cities, and that the nearest was Cevolat which was said to
be distant thirty days' journey.* Towards Cevola, Estevanico directed
his steps, sending messengers to the father ; who, the fourth day after
their separation, received from him " a great cross, as high as a man.'*
At the sight of this token, and on hearing the reports of the messengers,
Friar Marcos set forward, following the steps of his intelligencer. The
friar relates that, in this journey, by a small deviation from a direct route,
he came in sight of the sea coast, in 35° north, which he saw stretched
from thence to the west. Giving him credit for speaking to the best of
his knowledge, it cannot be supposed that he had other means of estima-
ting his latitude than by guess, or that he saw any sea coast beyond the
Gulf of California. — Nautical Magazine, Feb. 1849.
On the western side of the Gulf of California is the bay of La Paz,
having the Espiritu Santu Islands at the entrance, which afford good pro-
tection from the swell of the sea. Here is the harbour of Pichilingue,
in which small vessels only can winter, the water being shallow. In this
harbour, it is said, there are some excellent pearl beds. There is a con-
siderable quantity of land in its neighbourhood, which produces fruit and
vegetables of an excellent quality. Both native and mine gold is brought
from the Real of San Antonio, about four leagues to the W.N.W. ; the
metal, however, is not very abundant, nor is its quality very good. The
inhabitants are chiefly the descendants of foreign seaman who have inter-
married with the native women. For remarks on this bay, see the
remarks by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, in the Appendix.
Between La Paz and the island Del Carmen is San Pedro and other
islets, upon which garnets are said to be found.
To the northward of La Paz is the mission of Loretto, formerly a place
of considerable trade, but now suffered to go to decay. It was once the
capital of Lower California, and was founded in the year 1698, by Don
Juan Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long account of it, and considered its
locality as one of great importance. The anchorage is open to winds
from North, N.W. and S.E., and when these prevail, the heavy sea
renders it by no means safe for a vessel to attempt riding them out.
Carmen Island affords shelter from the eastward, and the mainland from
the westward. The following description of Loretto was written in 1826
by Lieut. Hardy, R.N.
" Loretto stands in a valley of about two or three thousand feet wide,
surrounded by wild and sterile mountains, of which that called "La
* Herrera mentions the same distance. He writes the name Cibola, Deo. 6,
1. 7. c. 7. Ortelius, in his chart, No. 5. America, Sivc Novi Orbis, places
Cevola in 36° north latitude, and about 7° of longitude east, from the mouth of
the river Colorado. Theatrim Orbis Terrarum. Edit. 1584.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 69
Giganta" is the highest and least picturesque.* There are two gardens
in the place in which the vine, peach, fig, quince, and date, are cultivated.
A considerable quantity of wine is annually made, notwithstanding the
fruit is common property to all the inhabitants. Peaches and pears are
dried as well as figs ; the dates are preserved ; and these fruits are after-
terwards exchanged for wheat and Indian corn, brought to the mission in
small schooners from the port of Guaymas.
The situation of Loretto is in a valley of very limited extent, in
which there is space only for the town and two gardens ; and there being
in consequence no possibility of raising either wheat or maize, the inhabi-
tants are obliged to depend upon Sonora, almost for existence. Another
circumstance renders the tenure upon which they exist very precarious. I
remarked that the hills which surrounded the town are chiefly composed
of primitive rock, granite, and hard sand-stone, all intermingled with
scarcely any appearance of soil upon them. They are thus capable of
absorbing but little moisture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily
do not occur more frequently than once in five or six years, the rush
of water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine,
is so great, that instances have been known of some of the houses having
been actually carried away.
To prevent the recurrence of this danger, the former Franciscan friars,
many years ago, erected a stone wall, to break the force of the water,
and give it a new direction towards the sea. In successive years the rains
washed this barrier away ; and another was built, which by the returning
floods was washed down also, and at present there is but a slight trace
of its ever having existed. No attempts have been made to restore it ;
and on some future day it may be expected that the inhabitants will be
seen floating down the gulf! Although the natives are perfectly" sensible
of their perilous situation, the love of their dwellings is so great as to
extinguish all fear for the future, and all desire to change their
residence.
The inhabitants of Loretto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which
shows that there is no friendly mixture in the blood of the Spaniard and
the Indian ; or it may be, that by degrees they are returning to the
colour of the aborigines. They appear to be the same squalid, flabby,
mixed race, which is observed in almost every part of the Mexican coasts.
I did not see a good-looking person among them, always excepting the
commandant and ci-devant deputy !"
At about 14 leagues to the southward of Loretto, between it and La
Paz, is a small bay, named La Bahia Escondida, in which vessels of a
moderate draught of water may anchor in perfect security.
* This mountain is estimated to be 4,560 feet high. It is of volcanic origin, as
is all the rest of the chain which runs through the Californian peninsula. .
70 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
The Placeres de Perla, or Pearl Beds, in the neighbourhood of Loretto,
are the following : — the south-west point of the Isla del Carmen, Puerto
Balandra, Puerto Escondido, Arroyo Hondo, La Isla Coronada, Tierra
Firme, San Bruno, La Piedra Negada, and San Marcus. The four first
are situated to the south, and the latter five to the northward of Loretto,
at which place, says Lieut. Hardy, in 1826, the Virgin and the custom-
house receive their proportion of the pearl fishery, which for the last 30
years has not exceeded, as I am informed, the value of 70 dollars
annually.
From Loretto to Moleje Bay, a distance of about 100 miles, there are
soundings near the land of 20 to 30 fathoms, and the coast offers several
good anchorages. At three leagues to the northward of Loretto is the
little Island of Coronados, under which there is shelter from the N.E.
From hence, following the coast to the northward, there are several small
bays marked on the charts.
MOLEJE BAY. — This bay is of considerable extent, and the water in
it varies considerably in depth. There are numerous islands and small
harbours in it, and it is said that there are many shoals scattered over its
surface, and that in no part is there good holding-ground ; yet, a small
vessel may be lashed alongside some of the islets with perfect safety. In
the bay, there is said to be an excellent pearl-bed, but its existence wants
confirmation.
On the western coast of the bay of Moleje, there is a well of fresh
water, remarkable for the water rising and falling with the tide, which is
here about 18 inches. It was examined by Lieut. Hardy, in 1826, who
ascertained that there was a communication between the mountain and
the well, which is merely a hole of 12 inches (?) diameter, and of the same
depth, situated close to high water mark. It is naturally formed, and is
a great accommodation to travellers, being the only fresh water between
the missions of Loretto and Moleje ; so that it serves as a sort of half- way-
house. Its rise and fall depend on the elevation of the sea, which, when
it ebbs, allows the fresh wrater (which is of excellent quality) to filter
through the porous sand-stone in which the well is formed.
A little to the north-westward of Moleje Bay, is the mission of Moleje,
which can only be discerned from the sea by a small hill on the coast,
named Sombrerito, from its resemblance to a hat. The entrance to the
harbour is very shallow, and will only admit the entrance of very small
vessels. The coast is whitened with surf, and the shallow water extends
about two miles from the shore. Lieut. Hardy says that " being abreast
of Sombrerito, with the wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for
the coast, with our head about a quarter of a point to the southward of
that hill, in order to avoid a reef of rocks that runs off from it for some
distance. When within a hundred and fifty yards of the shore, Som-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 71
brerito then bearing off us N.N.W., and being in-shore of the reef, we
hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within 35 yards of it,
when we dropped our anchor, and ran out warps to the shore on both sides
of us, to prevent the vessel from either drifting or swinging, for which
there is no room.
The water on the bar is so shallow, that we touched twice in going
over it ; but as it was composed of only soft sand, the vessel received no
injury, although it blew fresh from the eastward, with a heavy
swell on the shore. .In the situation where we ultimately moored,
there are three fathoms close by the hill, and it is well sheltered from
wind and sea.
There is a small rivulet here, extending above the mission, which is
at the distance of two leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of
Sombrerito hides all appearance of the ravine ; but from the shore, the
date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as plantations of vines and of maize,
present a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in Lower Cali-
fornia. About the distance of a league from the mouth of the rivulet,
the water is fresh, and I took advantage of it to re-fill our empty
casks."
This mission of Santa Rosalia de Moleje was established in the year
1700 by the Marquis de Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance
from Loretto is about 45 leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap,
which are exported chiefly from the capital ; besides grapes, dates,
figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the principal branches of
its commerce.
About six or eight leagues from Moleje, at some distance from the
shore side, is the mission of La Madalena, established about the same
period as the former ; but by whom is not known. Its productions are
the same as those of the Moleje ; but the quality of the spirits which are
made from the mezcal, growing wild about the mountains in its neighbour-
hood, is said to be the best of any made in Lower California. Its
population is about equal to that of Loretto.
Nearly opposite the mission of Moleje is the Island of San Marcus,
which is small, and is said to have a pearl-fishery in its vicinity. Between
it and the mission is the small Islet of Santa Ines. Opposite San
Marcus, at the distance of two leagues from the coast, is the mission of
San Ignatio, established in the year 1725, which is a wretched place, and
the inhabitants of which are stated by a recent writer to have the ap-
pearance of belonging more to the next world than to this. At about 12
or 14 leagues to the north-westward of this mission there is said to be
an exhausted volcano, on one of the hills named Las Tres Virgines,
which, however, still produces sulphur. These three hills extend as far
as the Gulf of Moleje, where they end in a bluff point named after them.
72 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
The following, by Lieut. Hardy, will give an idea of the difficulty of
sailing out of the harbour of the mission of Moleje : — " Not having been
successful in my search for divers, I determined to proceed to sea. The
wind was still dead upon the shore ; and as it was not possible to attempt
taking the vessel out through the channel, without her being inevitably
driven on to the beach, I sent the boat ahead with a rope, and we suc-
ceeded in towing the Bruja through the midst of the rocks, which were
perfectly distinguishable at intervals by the heave and fall of the waves,
which enabled us to avoid them. Having got fairly outside of them, we
clapped on sail, shaped our course along shore, and in two hours time
went through the passage formed on the left by the low point of Santa
Ines, and on the right by the island named after the same saint, carrying
four and five fathoms' water. Having doubled the point, we came to
anchor on the south-west side of the Island of San Marcus, round which
I had been given to understand pearls had been formerly fished. We
found, however, only a few unproductive shells. On this island there
are numbers of wild goats, and I sent the captain and a part of the crew
to hunt them."
On the Island of San Marcus there is abundance of talc, a soft marble,
and pumice-stone of excellent quality. There are two kinds of the latter,
white and yellow ; but only the former is good. One of the hills is
almost entirely composed of talc. At the northern extremity of the island
there is good fresh water.
The coast of the main land, within Marcus Island, is iron-bound, and
affords no shelter whatever. At about 40 miles from Moleje mission, is a
small bay, named Thomson's Bay, in which you may occasionally anchor,
but it is open to every wind except the south-east.
From Marcus Island the Gulf of California as far as its head, into-
which falls the Rio Colorado, is but little known, being seldom visited*
A little to the northward of Thomson's Bay are some islands named Sal
si Puedes (Get back if you can\ in the vicinity of which the current runs
strongly, sometimes to the south-eastward, and occasionally in the
opposite direction. The larger island is about seven miles in circum-
ference, and very mountainous. The hills are chiefly composed of a red
stone, which has very much the appearance of cinnabar. Near these
islands are some others, named Las Animas and San Lorenzo, by which
a very dangerous passage is formed.
In about lat. 29° the long and narrow island of Del Angele de la
Guardia, forms in conjunction with the coast a channel in which numbers
of whales have been seen, and hence named the Canal de Ballenas.
Opposite to the island, and nine leagues inland, is the mission of San
Francisco de Borja.
RIO COLORADO,— This river falls into the northern extremity of
THE WEST COAST OF KORTH AMERICA. 7£
the Gulf of California, after a course of 640 miles ; but its sources have
not been explored. The depth at its mouth is not more than six feet, and
the breadth scarcely exceeds 200 yards. Sixty miles from the sea it is
joined by the Rio Gila, which rises from the Sierra Mongollon, in the
Rocky Mountains, about 34° 2(X N. lat. The country through which
these rivers flow is a sandy desert, destitute of good water, and subject to
excessive heat.
The coast on the western side of the entrance to the river, for a very
considerable distance before reaching the river, appears to be composed
of a loose sandy soil, easily raised by the wind. It has, in consequence,
been named " Smoky Coast."
The three mouths of the Rio Colorado are formed by two islands, by
the coast of Sonora to the eastward, and by the coast of California to the
westward. The largest of the two islands has been named Montagu
Island, in compliment to Admiral Sir George Montagu, G.C.B. On the
western side of the river there are forests of the thorny shrub named
Mesquite, an inferior species of the Quebrahacha ; and on the banks there
are a profusion of stems and large branches of the willow, poplar, and
acacia, which have been brought down by floods, and are now permanently
lodged in their present situations. On the eastern side of the river there
are also the remains of these trees, but there is no other vegetation
excepting a sort of dwarf reed. From the mast-head nothing on this
side is distinguishable, besides the waters of the Rio Colorado and Rio
Gila, but an interminable plain ; and to the westward rises the Cor-
dillera, which extends from Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of
Lower California. To the northward and eastward there is a long row of
lofty trees which probably grow on the banks of the Rio Gila. The
point of land dividing the Rio Colorado from the Gila is named Arnold's
Point, and the one 'on the opposite side of the same beach is named
Newburgh's Point.
The Rio Colorado is of but little use to navigation, as although the tide
rises 20 to 24 feet, the currents are so strong that it is always attended with
danger to run in ; the rate is said to be at times as much as 10 or 12 miles
an hour, and occasionally much more. The bed of the river is filled
with banks which are left dry at low water. When entering, the Cali-
fornian coast must be kept on board to find the passage, which is narrow,
and at low tide very shallow.
CURRENTS. — It may be remarked that in the Gulf of California, to
the northward of Guaymas, during the prevalence of northerly winds,
which continue from the latter end of October till the month of May,
the currents set with the wind. The southerly winds commence in May,
and are accompanied with southerly currents. To the northward of
Guaymas there are regular tides.
74 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
CAPE ST. LUCAS, in lat. about 22° 52' N., and long. 109° 53' W., is
of very moderate height, although a few leagues to the northward of it
the land rises so high as to be seen at the distance of 20 leagues. When
in this neighbourhood, it is recommended to keep the lead constantly
going, because that the low shore is occasionally hidden by the haze
which frequently prevails even when the weather is clear out at sea. At
the distance of nine leagues from the shore, there is a depth of 70
fathoms.
CAPE ST. LUCAS, bearing S. 67°, E., four leagues.
From Cape St. Lucas the coast runs to the westward about eight
miles to Cape Falso, so named from being frequently mistaken for the
Cape.
Cape St. Lucas is mentioned in the following terms by Captain
Colnett : — " Our cruising ground was between the latitudes 23° and 25°,
and longitudes 112° and 113°, off a remarkable mountain near Cape St.
Lazarus, to which I have given the same name. I make it to be in lat.
25° 15', and long. 11° 20'. To the southward of it is very low land, till
within a very few leagues of Cape St. Lucas, which is the south point of
California, when the land rises to such an eminence, as to be seen at the
distance of 20 leagues, but the cape itself is of very moderate height.
Though the weather was fair and pleasant, it was so hazy while we were
on this low and dangerous coast, as to require a continual employment
of the lead. We frequently got soundings with 70 fathoms of line at
the distance of nine leagues from the shore. I made the cape by the
means of a number of observations of sun, moon, and stars, to be in lat.
22° 45' N., and long. 110° W."
In the Bay of St. Lucas there is good anchorage, and shelter from
westerly winds, but it is exposed to a dangerous and very heavy sea from
the south-west. The soundings are very irregular, and the anchorage,
by reason of its great depth in the centre, is completely on a lee shore.
At the village a small quantity of provisions may be obtained.
Captain Sir E. Belcher has remarked " that they were nearly making
a sad mistake, after shortening sail, by finding after they cast in 10, they
had no bottom with 88 fathoms, just as they were about to let go the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 75
anchor. . This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on the bottom
before letting go an anchor.
This bay was first called Aguada Segura by the Spaniards, and after-
wards altered by Vizcaino to that of San Barnabe, it being the festival of
that saint when this navigator entered it, in 1602. It is the same bay in
which Cavendish landed his prisoners, 190 in number, when he anchored
them with his prize, the Santa Ana, taken from the king of Spain, in
1587. Some Americans and Californians now reside there, who supply
the whalers who annually resort there with water, wood, cattle, ve-
getables, and fruit. The country is mountainous and sterile about the
Cape, and the supplies are brought from the valley of San Jose, about 20
miles to the northward, which is weli cultivated. The water, which is
procured from the wells, is sweet when drawn, and is very bright, but is
impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which pervade the soil. It
consequently soon putrifies on board.
It has been remarked in Captain Rogers's account of his voyage round
the world, in 1710 : — " This port is about a league to the eastward of a
round, sandy, bald headland, which some take to be Cape San Lucas, be-
cause it is the southernmost land. The entrance into the bay may be known
by four high rocks, which appear like the Needles at the Isle of Wight,
as you come from the westward. The two westernmost are in form of
sugar-loaves, and the innermost of them has an arch, through which the
sea makes its way. You must leave the outermost rock about a cable's
length on your port head, and steer into the deepest part of the bay,
being all bold, where you may anchor in from 10 to 25 fathoms depth.
Here you may ride land-locked from all winds, save those between E. by
N. and S.E. by S. Yet it would be but an ordinary road if the wind
should come strong from the sea. The starboard side of the bay is the
best anchoring-ground, where you may ride on a bank that has from 10
to 15 fathoms depth. The rest of this bay is very deep; and near the
rocks on the port side going in there is no ground. This is not a good
recruiting place."
MAGDALEN A BAY, or rather GULF, is an extensive inland sea,
affording shelter ; and probably water can be obtained in the winter season,
considered to be between May and October. It has lately been surveyed
by Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., and by Captain Du Petit Thouars,
in 1837.
The entrance is about 3J miles wide, with rocks lining the shore on
both sides, so that it is recommended to keep as near the middle as pos-
sible, where will be found from 12 to 18 fathoms, rocky bottom, with
shells. When within, there will be found a similar depth on a bottom
of sand and shells. At the head of the bay there are numerous sand-
banks which have not yet been examined. The back land is so very low
76 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
that it cannot be seen from the deck, when at the entrance. Captain
Du Petit Thouars says : — " The high land of Cape St. Lazarus affords
an excellent mark for making the land, as it can be seen at the distance
of 10 or 12 leagues.
The entrance of the bay is three miles wide and very brief. It presents
no difficulty, care only being taken not to go too near the south point, on
account of a detached rock, on which the sea breaks, situated about half
a mile from the point. In tacking, when within the bay, care ought to-
be taken to shun the Bane de la Venus, and you ought to hold
yourself sufficiently far from the low land to the East and N.E.
Anchorage can be obtained in the north-west part of the bay, or in the
south part of it, according to the prevailing winds. The holding-ground
is moderately good.
The bay offers no resources, as there are neither houses, woods, nor water.
Outside the bay, the current runs to the south, with a strength of
about a third of a mile per hour.
The tides are regular, and occasion very strong currents at the entrance
of the bay. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon,
at 7h. 37m. Variation of the compass 8° 15' E."
From the above mentioned survey (Captain Du Petit Thouars) it
would appear that the north extremity of Cape St. Lazarus is in lat»
CAPE ST. LAZARUS, bearing about N.W. by N. distant, 182 miles.
24° 48' 20" N. and long. 112° 16' 28" W. It is very high land, and
makes, from a distance, like an island, the country at the back, and to
the northward and southward of it being very low.
Commander Sir E. Belcher surveyed this bay in 1839, and has made the
following remarks upon it: — " I was fully prepared to have found, as the
name imported, an extensive bay ; but on entering the heads, which are
about two miles asunder, no land could be discerned from the deck, from
north-west to north-east or east; and even after entering, it was quite a
problem in this new sea where to seek for anchorage, our depths at
first, even near the shore, ranged from 17 to 30 fathoms. However, as
the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I determined on beating
to windward, in which it eventually proved I was correct. About 4 P.M.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 77
we reached a very convenient berth in 10 fathoms, with a very sheltered
position for our observatory. Preparations were immediately made for
the examination of this extensive sea, or what I shall in future term the
Gulf of Magdalena.
It is probable that this part of the coast formerly presented three
detached islands ; viz. St. Lazarus range, Magdalena range, and Marga-
rita range, with one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. It
is not improbable that its estuaries meet those from La Paz, forming this
portion of southern California, into an immense archipelago.
The first part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what
held out some prospect of a fresh water river, particularly as frequent
marks of cattle were noticed. In the prosecution of this part of our
survey we noticed that the St. Lazarus range is only connected by a very
narrow belt of sand between the two bays, and that the summits of some
sand-hills were covered, in a most extraordinary manner, by piles of
fragile shells, which resembled those found recent in the gulf. At eleva-
tions of 50 and 60 feet, these minute and fragile shells were found
perfect ; but on the beaches, either seaward or within, not a shell was
visible- This is the more extraordinary, as these sand wastes are con-
stantly in motion, and drowning everything else, and yet these shells are
always exposed ! On digging beneath them to erect marks, no beds of
shells occurred, nothing but plain sand. It was further remarkable that
they appeared to be collected in families, principally area, venus,
vcardium, and murex. When ostrea appeared, they were by them-
selves.
The cliffs throughout the gulf abound in organic remains, and I cannot
but believe that the same cause has produced the above unaccountable
phenomena, which I witnessed throughout a range of at least 30 miles.
Having explored the westernmost estuary., about 17 miles north of our
observatory, until no end appeared to its intricacies, I resolved on at-
tempting a second, which afforded a wider entrance, and offered deeper
water. This was examined about four miles beyond the last, and it still
offered ample scope for employment, the advance boat being at that
moment in four fathoms, and distant heads in view ; but considering that
sufficient had been done to show that no hope offered of reaching fresh
water, and the still unexplored state of the gulf would engross all our
spare time, I determined on adhering to its main outlines, which
eventually offered so many intricacies as almost to baffle our patience.
One circumstance -connected with the examination of the second
.estuary afforded very strong proof that no fresh-water streams were in
the vicinity. It was the fact of finding near our advanced position many
large specimens of the Asteria Medusa, or Euryale, an Asteria seldom
78 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
found but in pure, and generally deep salt water. At least twenty were
taken by the dredge.
By the 9th of November we had reached the eastern end of the first
gulf, when the ship was moved into the second, the channel or strait con-
necting them being not more than a quarter of a mile wide. I had been
very sanguine in my expectations that we should have discovered a safe
channel out by the eastern end of the Island of Margarita; but
until satisfied upon that point I took the Starling and boats to explore.
I found that our boats, and, upon emergency, the Starling, might
have passed out, but it was far too doubtful and intricate for the
ship.
During the time the boats were thus engaged, I overlooked them from
the summit of one of the highest peaks of Margarita, and plainly saw the
outlines of the shoals, and difficulty of the navigation, even for boats. I
had also a fine view of the southern unnamed island, which terminated in
a crescent about ten miles to the S.E., with a passage very similar to
that immediately beneath.
We )jtf|i frequently seen indistinctly the outlines of very high mountains
to the eastward, distant about 50 or 60 miles. But on this day I could
detect abrupt breaks, which indicated water-courses between them, and
could plainly follow out the yellow breaks of cliffs, as far as the eye
could trace inland.
I have not the slightest doubt that these estuaries flow past them, and
probably to the very base of the most distant mountains, even into the
Gulf of California. As I am informed that there are no fresh streams in
the district of La Paz, and that several esteros ran westerly from that
neighbourhood, it is not improbable that they meet. Although the solu-
tion of this question may not be commercially important, it is one highly
interesting in a commercial point of view.
After all the time expended, independent of severe labour, on this im-
mense sheet of water, it will naturally be enquired, what advantages does
the port offer ? The reply is : at the present moment, shelter ; and from
several water-courses nearly dry at the time of our visit, it is evident that
very powerful streams scour the valleys in the winter season, which in
this region is reckoned between May and October.
Fuel can be easily obtained in the esteros (mangrove).
As a port for refit after any disaster, it is also very convenient ; and
for this purpose, either our northern or southern observatory bays may
be selected. The latter would afford better shelter, but the former is
certainly more convenient, and less liable to difficulty of navigation, the
access to it being entirely free from shoals.
In war it would be a most eligible rendezvous, particularly if watching
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 79
the coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the formation
of an establishment, without adequate naval force ; and the nature of the
country itself would not maintain an opposing party.
The Island of Margarita would afford an excellent site for a deposit
for naval stores. Martello towers on the heads of entrance would
completely command it, and, excepting on the inside, no force could
be landed.
Water would doubtless flow into wells, of which we had proof in spots
where the wild beasts had scraped holes ; but from some (no doubt re-
moveable) causes, it was intensely bitter. There is nothing in the
geological constitution of the hills to render it so.
The ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains, vary from
1500 to 2000 feet, and are composed principally of fragments of horn-
blende slate, serpentine, sandstone, and primitive limestone."
From the entrance of Magdalena Bay to Cape Corso, the north end of
the narrow but elevated neck of land separating the bay from the ocean,
the distance is about nine miles, and the coast then falls low, and bends
inwards about four or five miles from the general direction of the land,
and forms with Cape Lazarus the Bay of Santa Maria, which is entirely
open to the westward.
SAN BARTHOLOMEW* is about three miles in extent, with sound-
ings over the surface of eight fathoms, gradually decreasing to four and
three at the head of the bay. The western point is called Kelp Point, and
has some rocks off it : just round it to the northward is the landing-place.
The eastern point of the bay, called Cape Tortola, has a reef of rocks,
mostly above the water, extending from it nearly half-way across the bay,
thus affording good shelter to vessels lying within it ; its outermost rock
is called the Sulphur Rock, and is 30 feet high.
The land round Port Bartholomew is high, and the soundings im-
mediately outside it are deep, there being from 20 to 30 fathoms at two
miles off. Capt. Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says that " the surrounding land
is high and mountainous, composed, as far as we had opportunity of
examining, of every rock occurring in trap formations, but reduced to
fragments, not exceeding four or five pounds weight. Marine shells,
similar to those found on the shores of the bay, were plentifully mixed
up with this general debris, and in the layers between some clay beds,
crystallized gypsum abounded.
The bay is formed by a high range of loose cliffs on the north, and
fine gravelly bay on the east, and a coarse sandy tongue connects a high
peninsula or island at high water in its centre, (forming a third southern
bay). From this peninsula, rocks extend northerly, partly under water,
* Turtle Bay of the whalers.
SO SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
jutting into the heart of the bay, and forming a safe land-locked position,
having five fathoms within.
The place of observation on the northern head of the bay is situated in
lat. 27° 40' N., long. 114° 51' 20" W. Var. 10° 46' E. (1839).
The anchorage we took up was in seven fathoms, sheltered from all
but S.W. winds, but bad holding-ground."
CEDROS ISLAND is represented in the Spanish charts to be about 10
leagues long, and before an extensive bay, that of San Sebastian Vizcaino.
» The south-western point of this bay is named Morro Hermoso, and west
from it there is a smaller island, called Natividad. Captain Vancouver
has remarked : — " To these islands, as the day advanced, we drew somewhat
nearer, but the land was still too far off to admit of our forming any
correct judgment as to the productions of the country, or the shape of its
shores. Those of the Island of Cedros wore an uneven broken appear-
ance, though on a nearer approach they seemed to be all connected. The
southern part, which is the highest, is occupied by the base of a very
remarkable and lofty peaked mountain, which descends in a very peculiar
rugged manner, and by projecting into the sea, forms the south-west end
of the island into a low, craggy, rocky, point ; this as we passed it at the
distance of five or six leagues, seemed, like the other part of the island, to
be destitute of trees, and nearly so of all other vegetable productions.
Natividad appeared to be more moderately elevated. St. Benito Island
is small, with some islets and rocks about it."
PLAYA MARIA BAY would appear from the survey of Captain Kellett,
R.N., to be an open roadstead of six to nine fathoms. On its eastern
side is a high mountain called the Nipple, 1132 feet high, from which
Cedros Island bears between the angles of S. 49° 40' W., and S. 38° W.,
true. The station for observations was on the western side of the bay,
in lat. 28° 55' 37" N. and long. 114° 31' 20" W. Variation of the
compass in 1847, 8° 44' E.
SAN QUENTIN has been lately surveyed by Captain Sir E. Belcher,
from whose plan it would appear that there is an extensive flat of 2£
and 1 J fathoms stretching across the entrance of the port, but leaving a
narrow channel of 4 to 7 and 8 fathoms close to the western side. This
sandy flat has several dry patches on it. Sir E. Belcher has remarked
that "the sandy point on the left side of the entrance is situated in
lat. 30° 2 1' 53" N., long. 115° 56' 33" W. Var. 12° & E. (1839.)
The whole coast is dreary, being either sand-hills or volcanic
mountains, five of which, very remarkably placed, caused one of the
early navigators to term it the Bay of Five Hills. It is the Bay of the
Virgins of former, and Port San Quentin of the later Spanish surveyors.
The island and paps of Las Virgines are situated to seaward, about
two miles from what has been termed Observatory Peak, in our plan."
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 81
SAN DIEGO. — This is one of the most important harbours on the coast
of California, south of San Francisco, as it affords perfect shelter from
all winds, and has a considerable depth of water. That such a
large volume of water should have so small an outlet is somewhat
remarkable, as is also the very singular natural breakwater, Ballast Point.
The Port La Playa is situated on the western shore of the bay, about
If mile from the entrance. The anchorage is in between 9 and 10
fathoms. There is a custom-house and revenue establishment, and also
every convenience for the mail steamers which stop here. An excellent
road leads from La Playa to Old San Diego, which is a small town of a
few adobe houses, and unapproachable by water, even in boats.
New San Diego, now about two years old (1851), is situated on a plain
at the base of the hills on the east side of the bay. It consists of a few
American- built houses, and a large storehouse for the quartermaster's
department. The United States military depot is established there. A
channel runs in a curve from La Playa to New San Diego, and vessels
can carry from six to seven fathoms water. Both New San Diego and
La Playa are dependent upon the river at Old San Diego for their
water. Between the above-named channel and Old San Diego, are
large flats, mostly covered with grass, and partly bare ^at low tide.
The most important subject, however, connected with the bay, is the
effect of the debouchement of the San Diego River, bringing with it,
when high (in the rainy season), great quantities of sand directly into the
channel.
It is believed, and apparently with reason, that unless the course of the
river be changed, the channel will be ultimately filled, which will have
the effect of not only cutting off communication with New Town, but
also of destroying the bay entirely as a harbour — for it appears that
nothing keeps the bay open but the great amount of water flowing in
and out at the narrow entrance ; and, when the channel is closed, the
greater part of the bay is cut off, leaving an insufficient amount to keep
the entrance clear. A bar would doubtless form across the mouth, and
the bay will gradually fill up.
That the river does bring sand into the bay is asserted by the deputy
collector of this place, and others who have the means of knowing ;
and, farther, it is known that vessels at one time could anchor in False
Bay, but the river flowing into it destroyed it, by filling it with sand ;
and it then turned its course into San Diego Bay.
If such be the facts, and there appears to be no reason to doubt
them, the only remedy for the evil is to turn the river into False Bay
again. This is an excellent harbour, and its loss would be severely felt.
The average rise of the tide is stated to be about six feet, but according
S2 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
to the evidence of the pilots, it would appear to vary from nine feet, spring
tides, to three and a half feet, during the greater part of the year.
A shoal has been reported to exist about two-thirds of the distance
from the Playa to the end of Ballast Point, on which are only nine feet
at low tide. The following directions for San Diego are by Lieut.
Alden, U.S. Navy, and bear date Sept. 29th, 1851 :—
" Vessels in sight of the coast, and approaching San Diego from the
north, will observe an opening in the hills, and the appearance of an
inland bay. This is the 'False Port,' and must be avoided. Im-
mediately north of ' False Port ' commences a table land about 450 feet
high, and extending southwardly six or seven miles. The extremity of
this table land is called Point Loma, and forms the entrance to the
harbour of San Diego.
Those bound from the southward will first sight the group of high
rocky islets, called ' Los Coronados.' From thence' to Point Loma, the
course is N. £ E., and the distance 15 nautical miles. On a clear day,
' Los Coronados' will serve as a land-mark and guide for vessels coming
from any direction.
Steer right through the kelp, giving Point Loma a berth of one-half
mile, and in a few minutes you will open Ballast Point, a low beach of
shingle stones, forming a natural breakwater. Then round up gradually
until you bring Ballast Point in range with the easternmost house on
the Playa, and be very careful not to open more of the village, otherwise
you will be too far to the East, and in danger of getting aground on
Zuningo Shoal. The breakers show its position. During the summer,
keep as close to the hills on the port side as your draft of water will
allow, as you will then be able to lay on the wind right up to Ballast
Point. You can carry four fathoms within a ship's length of the point.
Keep on the above range, and when up with Ballast Point, steer direct
for the Playa, and anchor as you please.
Inside of the breakwater, and about 250 yards true north of
its extremity, is a shoal spot, with twelve feet at low tide. The
shoals on the starboard hand are plain in sight, except at very high
water. i
Beyond the Playa, the shoals are easily distinguished. The channel,
however, is buoyed. From the Playa to New Town, four miles distant,
you can carry six fathoms of water. A mile or two beyond New Town,
the bay becomes shoal."
Commander Sir E. Belcher remarks that " this port, for shelter,
deserves all the commendation that previous navigators have bestowed
on it, and, with good ground-tackle, a vessel may be perfectly land-locked.
The holding-ground is stubborn, -but in heavy southerly gales I am in-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 83
formed that anchors ' come home,' owing to the immense volume of kelp
driven into the harbour. It has been stated to me by an old sailor in
this region, that he has seen the whole bank of fucus giganteus (which
comprises a tongue of three miles in length by a quarter broad), forced
by a southerly gale into this port. This, coming across the bows, either
causes the cable to part, or brings the anchor home. No vessel, how-
ever, has suffered from this cause. The chief drawback is the want of
fresh water, which, even at the presidio, three miles from the port, is very
indifferent.
The seine afforded a plentiful supply of excellent fish, and we found
good sport in killing rabbits, hares, &c.
The eastern spit of entrance was found to be in lat. 32° 41' N., long.
117° 11 ' W. The entrance is narrow, being only of a width suitable for
one vessel at a time.
The trade consists entirely of hides and tallow ; but not, as formerly,
from the missions, for they have long been fleeced. It has now become
a complete speculation. It is necessary that one of the parties should
reside on the spot, probably marrying into some influential family (i.e.
in hides and tallow,) to secure a constant supply for the vessels when
they arrive. It is dangerous for them to quit their post, as some more
enterprising character might offer higher prices and carry off their
cargo."
Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., has made the following observations on
Port San Diego : — " This port is of considerable extent, being, in fact,
an arm of the sea. It is 10 miles long, and 4 miles wide, and, from being
land-locked, is perfectly secure from all winds. The entrance is narrow
and easily defended, and has a sufficient depth of water, 20 feet at lowest
tide, for large vessels. The tide rises five feet. The tongue of kelp,
three miles long by a quarter of a mile broad, off the entrance of the
bay, must be avoided by large vessels, but small vessels may pass through
it with a strong breeze ; the bank has three fathoms water on it. During
gales, this kelp is torn up and driven into the bay, where it becomes
troublesome to vessels by the pressure it brings upon them, either
causing them to drag their anchors or part their cables.
There are many drawbacks to this harbour ; the want of water is one
of them, the river which furnishes the mission with water disappearing
in the dry season before reaching the bay, and the surrounding country
may be called a barren waste of sand-hills. The town of San Diego,
consisting of a few adobe houses, is situated on the north side of the bay,
•on a sand flat two miles wide. The mission establishment is seven miles
from the town, up a valley to the north-east ; and here, there is a good
supply of water the year round. This river, in the rainy season, dis-
charges a considerable quantity of water into the bay, bringing with it
G 2
O* SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
much sand, which has already formed a bar across a part of False Bay,
rendering it useless, and well grounded fears may be entertained that it
will eventually destroy this harbour also : this occurrence, however, may
be prevented at slight cost.
The whole country around San Diego is composed of volcanic sand
and mud, mixed with scoria : the land is unfit for cultivation, and covered
with cacti, one of the many evidences of the poorness of the soil ; this
leaves the Port of San Diego little to recommend it but the uniform
climate, good anchorage, and security from all winds."
SAN JUAN is an open roadstead of 12 to 4J fathoms. It has been
mentioned in the following terms by Sir E. Belcher : — " On the
evening of the 13th of October, 1839, we dropped anchor in the bay of
San Juan. Owing to the surf running at the time, and my objects
rendering me, without any assistant, a perfect slave to duty, I was
compelled to stick to a half-tide rock, to effect the security of this
position. The bay, or rather the outer rock, on which I observed, is
situated in lat. 33° 26' 56" N. and long. 1 17° 407 50" W. It has a high
cliffy head to the north-west, but terminates in low sandy beaches to
the southward. This bay was examined and surveyed. The anchorage
is foul under five fathoms, is unprotected, and the landing bad.
The mission is situated in a fruitful-looking sheltered valley, said
to abound in garden luxuries, country wines, and very pretty damsels,
whence the favourite appellation Juanitas. I suppose, therefore, that
they all assume this name. As many call here, apparently, to my view,
at risk of anchor and cable, I was induced to ask the master of a vessel
who called upon me, what brought him here. * It is only visited for
stock, fruit, or vegetables,' was his dry reply."
Captain John Hall has observed, that in coming into this bay from
the north, care must be taken to give the bluff point a wide berth, as
some dangerous rocks lie off it, about a mile or more distant.
Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., says, " This bay is 45 miles north of
San Diego : at its head lies the fertile valley, in which is situated the
town and mission of San Juan. The bay is entirely unprotected, and
is a bad roadstead, the bottom being very foul inside of five fathoms,
and the landing at times impossible, on account of the surf. It can be
safely visited during the fine season, and provisions and water easily ob-
tained, the latter from the mountain streams, which empty into the bay,
and also enable the inhabitants to irrigate their lands, by which mode of
cultivation they are made extremely productive. The shore here becomes
quite bold, making the communication very inconvenient to the north-
ward by land.
From San Juan, the coast trends W.N.W., 37 miles, to San Pedro,
which is but an open bay, with scarcely any more claims to be called a
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 85
harbour than San Juan: it is equally exposed, except from the north-
west winds ; but from being near a part of the country which produced
an abundance of what was formerly the staple of the country, hides, it
was more frequently visited. The town of Nuestra Senora is 18 miles
from the bay, up the valley.
The cliffs along this part of the coast are steep, and composed of
clay and chert, throughout which are interspersed chalky lumps, which
contain organic remains. Water is not to be obtained here, and the
little that is required for* the supply of a few inhabitants has to be
brought from a distance in the interior.
SANTA BARBARA lies 35 miles, E. by S., from Point Conception.
There is scarcely any protection, though somewhat sheltered from the
north-west swell by the Island of Santa Cruz ; vessels, however, anchor
here, notwithstanding the south-east winds blow during the winter
months with great violence. At these times it is necessary for vessels to
put to sea, and this is usually done when indications of these storms are
seen. There is anchorage within the line of kelp in five fathoms water,
but it is only resorted to by navigators who are very desirous of dis-
charging or getting on board their cargoes.
The town is within a few hundred yards of the beach, from which the
valley rises in which the mission of Santa Barbara is situated. The
mission, with its white-washed walls, forms an excellent land-mark for
the anchorage, and all dangers may be avoided by keeping without the
line of kelp, which is found to grow on this coast, in from 5 to 7 fathoms
water.
Santa Barbara has been the residence of the best families in Cali-
fornia: it is larger than Monterey, and contains nearly 1000 inhabitants;
its position seems to be badly chosen, except as to climate, which com-
bines all the good points of the other ports on the coast, being drier
than those towards the north, and cooler than those of the south. The
anchorage is bad holding-ground, being hard sand covered with sea-
weed.
Excellent water, and in plenty, is obtained from the rocky hills four
or five miles distant, which enables cultivation by irrigation to be
carried on, and by this means all kinds of fruit and grains are brought
to perfection, and some of the former made to produce throughout the
year ; flowers common to our gardens also bloom in the winter months.
This fertile valley extends back 17 miles.
San Gabriel and the Pueblo de los Angelos, two of the principal
towns, lie in this part of California, deemed the most agreeable climate
in the country.
These towns have always been the centre of the Spanish population ;
but, under the recent changes, they will lose their importance, yet con-
86 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
tinue, no doubt, to be occupied as heretofore, exclusively by Californians
and their descendants.
It has been remarked by Sir Edward Belcher : — " Off this part of
the coast we experienced a very strong sensation, as if the ship was on
fire, and after a very close investigation, attributed it to a scent from the
shore, it being much more sensible on deck than below ; and the land
breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise from the
naphtha on the surface. Vancouver notices the same smell.
At sunset, we were unable to discover the bay, and could barely dis-
tinguish a long, low, yellow line, spitting to the southward and terminating
abruptly. This eventually proved to be the high yellow cliffs of the
western head, at least fifty feet above the sea.
The customary guide, in approaching the coast, is the f kelp line,*
which generally floats over five to seven fathoms. So long as a vessel
can keep on its verge, there is no danger. This is the general opinion
of those who have navigated this coast during their lives, and our obser-
vation has tended to confirm it. I know, however, that less than two
fathoms have been found within it, barely at its edge. It is the fucus
giganteus, and sufficiently strong to impede the steerage, if it takes the
rudder.
The mission at Santa Barbara is situated on an elevation of about 200
feet, gradually ascending in about three miles from the sea. The town
is within a few hundred yards of the beach, on which the landing is at
all times doubtful. The bay is protected from northerly and westerly
winds, which prevail from November to March, and the swell is, in some
measure, broken by the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San
Miguel, to the westward. In March, the south-westers blow with fury,
which is contrary to the seasons southward of Cape San Lucas. Even
during the fine weather months, vessels are always prepared to slip when
the wind veers to S.E., from which point it blows with great violence,
but soon expends itself.
We were fortunate in landing comfortably, and by four o'clock,
nothing of interest detaining us, we moved on towards San Pedro.
Vessels occasionally anchor here within the five fathoms', or kelp line,
but are always prepared to warp out. This is a kind of inner bar. The
kelp doubtless prevents much surf, and renders it more convenient to
vessels discharging ; but during the heavy gales, the kelp is generally
washed up.
The Canal of Santa Barbara is the strait between the Island of Santa
Cruz and a chain of other islands and the main land. The mission of
San Buenaventura, S.E. from Santa Barbara, about 20 miles, is on the
main, about two miles from the shore.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 87
A short distance to the southward of Buenaventura, the coast spits
out in a low sandy point, off which the water shallows suddenly to seven
fathoms. There is no danger if the lead is kept going.
The Bay of San Pedro, which is situated in lat. 33° 43' N., and long.
118° 14' W., is open to the south-west, but tolerably sheltered from the
north-west. Inside of the small island in the bay is a very snug creek,
but only accessible to small craft, by reason of a rocky bar, having only,
at low water springs, five feet.
The only house near the bay is supplied with water from some
miles inward ; and I am informed, that at times the inhabitants are in
great distress. It is only maintained for the convenience of trading
with the vessels which touch here for the purchase of hides and tallow.
The cliffs of the western sides of the bay which form the beach line,
are very steep, about fifty feet perpendicular, descending from one
elevated range, about five hundred feet above the sea. They are com-
posed of a loose mud, mixed with lumps of a chalky substance,
enclosing organic remains, sometimes running into chert or chalce-
dony."
Captain John Hall has remarked of Santa Barbara that " this
bay is only sheltered from the N.W. winds, being exposed to the south
and S.W. The anchorage is not very good, being hard sand, and over-
grown with sea-weed. We had such a quantity of this on our anchor
when we hove it up, that it entirely impeded the ship's progress until
we got it clear. We found no tide or currents, but there appeared to
be a rise and fall, in-shore, of about two feet. All kinds of provisions
are cheap here, as also fruits, viz : grapes, pears, apples, and plums, in
the season."
Captain Vancouver has remarked of Santa Barbara, " To sail into the
bay requires but few directions, as it is open, and without any kind of
interruption whatever; the soundings on approaching it are regular,
from 1 5 to 3 fathoms ; the former, from half a league to two miles, the
latter within a cable and a half of the shore. Weeds were seen growing
about the roadstead in many places ; but, so far as we examined, which
was only in the vicinity of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate
shallower water, or a bottom of a different nature. The shores of the
roadstead are for the most part low, and terminate in sandy beaches, to
which, however, its western point is rather an exception, being a steep
cliff, moderately elevated ; to which point I gave the name of Point
Felipe, after the commandant of Santa Barbara."
Of the islands in the offing, the only one that has been examined is
the westernmost, St. Nicholas, which appears to be about seven miles
long and three broad. It is high in the middle, and has breakers ex-
88 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
tending off the eastern and western ends. At the distance of two and a
half miles to the northward of it are 40 fathoms water. The western
end of the island is in lat. 33° 22' N. and long. 119° 42' 3" W., according
to the observations of Captain Kellett, R.N., 1847. At the distance of
seven and a half miles, W.N.W., from St. Nicholas Island, is a rock,
called John Begg Rock, which is 30 or 40 feet above the water. Mid-
way between the rock and the island are 40 to 45 fathoms, coral.
The southernmost of the islands is the Coronados, to the south-west-
ward of the port of St. Diego, in lat. 32° 24' 55" N. and long. 1 17° 15' W.
They appear from the survey of Captain Kellett, to be four in number,
and to have from 12 to 15 fathoms immediately to the eastward of
them.
They have been described by Vancouver in the following manner : —
" The Coronados consist of two islets and three rocks, situated in a south
direction, four or five leagues from Point Loma, occupying the space of
five miles, and lying N. 35° W. and S. 35° E. from each other. The
southernmost, which, in point of magnitude, is equal to all the rest col-
lectively taken, is about a mile broad and two miles long, and is a good
mark to point out the port of St. Diego, which, however, is ptherwise
sufficiently conspicuous, not easily to be mistaken."
Of the Island St. Juan, to the northward of the Coronados, in lat.
32° 56' N., and marked on the chart of the coast, it appears that there
is some doubt of its existence, an American vessel being reported to
have lately sailed over it. It has been thought better to retain it on
the chart, as our knowledge of the coast is very imperfect.*
POINT CONCEPTION is about 110 miles, W.N.W., from PointSan
Pedro, and is remarkable by its differing very much" in form from the
headlands to the northward. It appears to stretch out from an extensive
tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end
falling perpendicularly into the sea, which breaks against it with great
violence. Off the point the current sets to the north in the early spring
months. There is generally hereabout a strong smell, resembling as-
phaltum, which, as it is mentioned by Vancouver, is probably of a
* This island is laid down on the authority of Vancouver, who says :— " At the
distance of about eight leagues, somewhere about N. 55° W. and N. 60° W. from
Point Loma, by a very uncertain estimation, is situated an island called St. John's ;
between which and the coast we passed without seeing it, nor did we observe it
whilst we remained at anchor, excepting on one very clear evening, when it was
seen from the Presidio, at a time when I was unprovided with a compass, or any
other means of ascertaining its direction, and was therefore only able to guess at
its situation. It appeared to be low and flat, is but seldom seen from the Presidio
of St. Diego, and was undiscovered until seen by Martinez, a few years before, in one
of his excursions along this coast."
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 89
permanent nature. As this part of the coast is frequently enveloped
in fog, this smell may be a good notification of the vicinity of the
land.
The land from Point Conception trends to the northward, and it is a
singular circumstance that the climate seems to undergo as great a
change as the direction of the coast. To the northward of the cape,
fogs and mists prevail during the early part of the day for three-fourths
of the year.
From Point Conception the coast runs N. 51° W., 10 miles, to Point
Arguello, a steep rocky point rising abruptly in rugged, craggy cliffs,
near which are two or three detached rocks, lying close to the shore.
From hence it runs N. 4° W., 19 miles, to another high, steep, rocky,
cliff, called Point Sal, which projects from the low shore, similar to Point
Arguello. The intermediate land has the same appearance as that to the
northward, the whole is destitute of trees, and nearly so of all vegetable
productions, excepting near a stream about six miles from Point Arguello,
which has the largest flow of water of any river to the southward of the
Columbia River, but the breakers across its entrance will render it of but
little use to navigation.
From Point Sal to Point Esteros, the distance is about 38 miles, the
coast bending inwards, and forming two bays, those of St. Luis Obispo
and Esteros. Vancouver has observed : — " At the north point of this bay,
Esteros, the woodland country ceases to exist,* and the shores acquire
a quick ascent, with a very uneven surface, particularly in the neigh-
bourhood of the bay. Some detached rocks are about its southern point,
which lies about 13 miles from the northern, and is formed by steep
cliffs, falling perpendicularly into the ocean. From the line of the two
outer points, the shores of the bay fell back about five miles, and ap-
peared to be much exposed ; and unless the conical rock is connected
with the shores, they did not seem to form any projecting point, but
were composed of a sandy beach, that stretched from a margin of low
land, extending from the rugged mountains that form the more interior
country, from whence four small streams were seen from the mast-head
to flow into the bay.
This bay was the first indent in the shore to the southward of Car-
melo Bay, and, according to the Spanish charts, is called Los Esteros.
To the southward of it, the whole exterior country had a sterile, dreary,
unpleasant aspect. The south point of Esteros forms the north-west
extreme of a conspicuous promontory, which takes a rounding direction,
about eight miles, when the coast retires again to the eastward, and forms
the northern side of an extensive open bay. This promontory is called
* It should be observed that Vancouver was sailing to the southward, along the coast.
90 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the Mountain del Buchon, and is said to have off it an island, at the
distance of about eight leagues, although we saw nothing of it, probably
in consequence of a thick haze, sometimes approaching to a fog, which
totally prevented our seeing any object further than from two to four
leagues in any direction, insomuch that, we stood into the bay to the
southward of the Mountain del Buchon, without knowing it to be such,
until the south point discovered itself through the haze, at the distance
of about three leagues.
This not being named on the charts, I have called it Point Sal, after
our friend the commandant at San Francisco. As the day was fast
declining, we hauled our wind to preserve our situation during the
night, with so strong a gale from the north-west as obliged us to close-
reef our top-sails. In the morning, the weather being more moderate
and the atmosphere more clear, we steered for Point Sal, and had a good
opportunity of seeing the northern shores of the bay, which, like those
of Esteros, seemed compact, without any projecting points that would
afford shelter or security for shipping.
The interior country consisted of lofty barren mountains, in double
and treble ridges, at some distance from the shore. The intermediate
land descended gradually from their base, interspersed with eminences
and vallies, and terminated on the coast in sandy beaches, or low white
cliffs."
From Point Esteros the distance to Carmel Point, the south side of
Cartnel Bay, is about 80 miles. In lat. 35° 42' N. there is a low pro-
jecting point, off which are two or three rugged detached rocks. To
the eastward of this point, the mountains fall back from the water-side,
and the intermediate country appears to be a plain, or to rise with a
very gentle ascent, for the space of about four leagues along the coast.
This land appeared to Vancouver to be tolerably well wooded, even
close to the shore, and, by the assistance of his glass, some of the trees
appeared to be very large, with spreading branches ; and being for the
greater part distributed in detached clumps, produced a very pleasing
effect. Hence, the country is mountainous, even close to the shore, the
mountains being called Na Sa de Sta. Lucia.
Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., has made the following remarks on this
coast : — " San Luis Obispo is 40 miles to the north of Point Con-
ception : immediately in the rear are the Santa Lucia hills, a part of
the coast range, extending as far north as Punto Pinos, the southern
part of the Bay of Monterey. The plains and neighbouring mountains
are well covered with large timber, and here the olive and other fruits
of this region grow in perfection; on the hills the California cedar
(pale Colorado) is found of large size. A small stream, the Rio San
Felipe, empties into the sea at this point.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. <}J
On the opposite or eastern slope of the ridge is the valley of Salinas,
through which the Rio Buenaventura flows. The hills are rendered
much more fertile by their exposure to the fogs and mists of the coast,
which supply them plentifully with moisture, and this is seen running
in many rills down the hill-sides.
The valley of Salinas is 50 miles in length, and has an average
width of six or seven miles ; the valley descends to the north-west, and
at its lower end is contracted by the hills through which the river
passes, a low and well-wooded bottom being formed on each side ; the
whole of it is well drained, and admirably adapted for stock farms ; it
may be called an open country, covered with grass ; the tops1 of the hills
are covered with oaks, pines, and cedars.
The river having passed through a narrow range of hills, the valley
again opens, and now receives the name of La Soledad, which is 20
miles wide, and extends to the bay of Monterey. The land on either
side rises into undulating hills, and from these into mountains, some
2000 feet high. The valley of La Soledad is considered very fertile,
the plains affording large areas of arable land, while the hills are covered
with grass and groves of oak, and the mountains with trees of higher
growth."
CARMEL BAY is about six miles to the southward of Point Pinos,
the west side of Monterey Bay. Its north side, Fisherman's Point, has
some rocks off it, and there are also some rocks off the south point of the
bay, at about a quarter of a mile from the shore. Vancouver has re-
marked that " Carmel Bay is a small, open, and exposed situation, con-
taining some detached rocks, and as it has a rocky bottom, it is a very
improper place to anchor in. Into this bay flows the River Carmel,
passing the mission of St. Carlos, which is said to abound in a variety
of excellent fish.
From the north point of Carmel Bay, the coast takes a S. by E.
direction, about four leagues, to a small, high, rocky, clump of land, lying
about half a mile from the shore, which is nearly barren ; indeed, the
trees from Point Pinos extend a little way only to the southward of
Carmel Bay, where the mountains rise rather abruptly from the sea, and
the naked shores, excepting one or two sandy beaches, are entirely com-
posed of steep rocky cliffs. To the southward of the detached lump of
land, the coast is nearly straight and compact ; the mountains form one
uninterrupted, though rather uneven, ridge, with chasms and gullies on
their sides ; the whole, to all appearance, utterly destitute of vegeta-
tion."
MONTEREY BAY. — From Fisherman's Point, the north point of
Carmel Bay, the coast trends round to the northward, about five miles, to
Point Pinos, the west side of Monterey Bay. The projecting points
92 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
have rocks off them to a short distance, rendering precaution necessary
when running along the coast.
Monterey Bay is situated between Point Pinos and Point Anno
Nuevo, which bear from each other about N. 72° W. and S. 72° E.,
distant 22 miles, and is formed by the coast falling back, nearly four
leagues, from the line of the two points. The only part of it that is
eligible for anchoring is near its southern portion, about a league south-
eastward from Point Pinos, where the shores form a sort of cove,
which affords clear good riding, and tolerable shelter for a few vessels.
In order to be protected from the sea, it is necessary to lie at no great
distance from the south-west shore, where, either at night or in the
morning, the prevailing wind from the land will permit vessels to leave
the bay, which otherwise would be a tedious task, by the opposition of
the winds along the coast, whose general direction is between the N.W.
and N.N.W. To these points of the compass this anchorage is wholly
exposed, but as the swell of the sea is broken by the land of Point Pinos,
and as these winds, which prevail only in the day-time, seldom blow
stronger than a moderate gale, the anchorage is rendered tolerably safe
and convenient; and notwithstanding these north-westerly winds are
POINT PINOS bearing N. 33° E., distant four miles.
common throughout the greater part of the year, there is seldom an
instance of their being so violent as to affect the safety of vessels
tolerably well found in anchors and cables. The soundings are regular,
from 30 to 4 fathoms, with a bottom consisting of a mixture of sand and
mud ; and the shores are sufficiently steep for all the purposes of naviga-
tion, without shoals or other impediments. Near Point Anno Nuevo
are some small rocks, at a short distance from the coast ; the shores of
Point Pinos are also rocky, and have some detached rocks lying at a
small distance from them, but which do not extend so far off as to be
dangerous. The rocky shores of Point Pinos terminate just to the
southward of the anchoring-place, and are succeeded by a fine sandy
beach, said to extend all round the bay. About four leagues from
Point Pinos is a small stream, called the River Monterey, but, like
Carmel River, it is nothing more than a very shallow brook of fresh
water, although dignified by the name of a river. Near Point Anno
Nuevo is another small stream.
The anchorage under Point Pinos is the only situation in the bay
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 93
where vessels can ride with any degree of safety or convenience. Near
it is the town, situated on low flat ground, but having in its vicinity
many delightful situations, and a soil fertile enough to repay the labour
of the cultivation. The climate of Monterey and the immediate neigh-
bourhood is considered to be very healthy. Since coming into the pos-
session of the Americans, the town has been much visited, as supplies can
be obtained in plenty.
It has been remarked by Captain Beechey, R.N., that " the anchorage
of Monterey is about two miles south-east of Point Pinos, in the south
angle of the great bay extending between Point Anno Nuevo and Point
Pinos. It is necessary to lie close to the shore, both on account of the
depth of water, and in order to receive the protection of Point Pinos,
without which vessels could not remain in the bay. It presents to the
eye a very exposed anchorage, but no accidents have ever occurred to
any vessel properly found in cables and anchors, in which respect it very
much resembles the bay of Valparaiso, nearly in the same parallel in the
southern hemisphere.
The village and presidio of Monterey are situated upon a plain be-
tween the anchorage and a range of hills covered with woods of pine and
oak. At the distance of a league to the southward of the presidio lies
the mission of San Carlos, situated in a valley near the River Carmel ; a
small stream emptying itself into a deep rocky bay. The shores of this
bay, and indeed of the whole of the coast near Point Pinos, are armed
with rocks of granite, upon which the sea breaks furiously ; and, as there
is no anchorage near them on account of the great depth of water, it is
dangerous to approach the coast in light or variable winds. Fortunately
some immense beds of sea-weed* lie off the coast, and are so impene-
trable, that they are said to have saved several vessels which were
driven into them by the swell, during calm and foggy weather.
Directions. — Ships should not enter this bay in light winds in any
other part than that used as an anchorage, as there is generally a heavy
swell from the westward, and deep water close to the shore.
It is impossible to mistake Point Pinos, if the weather be at all
clear, as its aspect is very different to that of any part of the bay to the
northward. It is a long, sloping, rocky, projection, surmounted by pine-
trees, from which its takes its name ; whereas the coast line of the bay
is all sandy beach. There is no danger in approaching Point Pinos,
except that which may ensue from a heavy swell almost always setting
upon the point, and from light winds near the shore, as the water is too
deep for anchorage. With a breeze from the southward, Point Pinos
should be passed as closely as possible ; a quarter of a mile will not be
* Fucus Pyriformis.
94< SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
too near; and that shore should be hugged in order to fetch the
anchorage. In case of having to make a tack, take care of a shoal at
the S.E. angle of the bay, which may be known by a great quantity of
sea- weed upon it : there is no other danger. This shoal has 3^ and
4 fathoms upon its outer edge, and 7 fathoms near it. With a fair
wind steer boldly towards the sandy beach at the head of the bay, and
anchor about one-sixth of a mile off shore in 9 fathoms, the fort upon
the hill near the beach bearing W.S.W., and moor with the best bower
to the E.N.E.
This anchorage, although apparently unsafe, is said to be very
secure, and that the only danger is from violent gusts of wind from the
S.E. The north-westerly winds, though they prevail upon the coast,
and send a heavy swell into the bay, do not blow home upon the shore ;
and when they are at all fresh they occasion a strong off-set in the bay.
This I believe is also the case at Callao and at Valparaiso to which, as
before mentioned, this anchorage bears a great resemblance.
There is no good water to be had at Monterey, and ships in want of
that necessary supply must either proceed to San Francisco, or procure
a permit from the governor, and obtain it at Santa Cruz, or some of the
missions to the southward.
By the mean of many observations on the tides at this place,
it is
High water (full and change) at 9 h. 42 m.
Rise is about 6 ft. 0 in. at spring tide,
And 1 ft. 2 in. at the neaps.
There is very little current at the anchorage."
Captain Hall observes : — " As a harbour, Monterey is extremely
inferior to San Francisco ; however, it is quite protected from the South
and S.W. winds ; and, by anchoring well under the point, a vessel may
also be protected from the N.W., although the N.W. winds send in a
very heavy swell. Fish here, also, is plentiful, as are likewise provisions
generally, including good bread."
On the plan of the harbour, from the survey of M. de Tessan, are the
following remarks, drawn up by M. du Petit Thouars : — " In making
the bay, it will be known by a depression in the coast, while the land
rises to an elevation of more than 3000 feet at the northern and southern
extremities. When in the latitude of Pt. Pinos (36° 39' N.), and near
the shore, great white spots are seen to the westward of the point, which
render it sufficiently marked. To anchor, with a fair wind, you run in
to within two or three cables' length of the rocks seen from this low
point, and follow at the same distance the western coast of the bay,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 95
until Point Pinos is shut in by Point Venus. You are then in 15 or 16
.fathoms water, on a bottom of sand and a little mud, with good holding-
ground : that is the anchorage for large vessels.
Small vessels run in nearer to the bottom of the bay, and anchor
very nearly in a range with the battery, in 9 or 10 fathoms water, on a
bottom of muddy sand, having Pt. Anno Nuevo (the northern extremity
of the bay) shut in by Pt. Venus. * On account of the calms, which fre-
quently oblige vessels to anchor, it is necessary to follow the western
shore of the bay, neither too far off nor too near. During adverse winds,
vessels may safely beat about in the bay of Monterey, as the two coasts
are safe, the only danger being in the bottom of the bay, in the south-
east anchorage. This is a bank of rock, on which are from 4 to 10
fathoms of water ; but it is betrayed by the leaves of the fucus giganteus
(kelp) which float on the surface. Fogs are very frequent, and some-
times render it difficult to make the land; and it often happens that it is
foggy in the offing but clear near the coast. During the rainy season
(from November to March), the wind blows from S.E. to S.W. : S.E.' is
the wind of bad weather. *
During the dry season (March to November), the winds blow gene-
rally from N.W. to North. N.W. is the wind for good weather. The
N. wind causes a heavy swell in the bay, but it is frequently less severe
than in the offing. There is no sensible current in the bay. Without,
the currents are not strong, and appear to run in the North near the
coast, and in the South more in the offing.
The tides are regular. High water, full and change, 9h. 52m. ; rise
3 feet. Variation, 14° 30' E."
The remarks of Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., may also prove inter-
esting ; they are as follow : — " The roadstead of Monterey is at the
south end of the bay, and is considered a safe anchorage, though but
partially protected from the westerly winds by Point Pinos. The points
of the coast which form the bay, and the land a short distance back, are
all elevated ; but the beach is sandy, and has a continual surf beating upon
it, which may be heard for some distance. There are no hidden dangers
in the bay ; those that exist are visible, or have kelp growing on them,
which points out their position, and lie near the shore. The bottom at
the anchorage is sand and stones, but in places, rocky ; to the north the
water deepens, and the soundings are yellowish mud, mixed with sand.
The tides are regular, but not felt at the usual anchorage, the current
flowing inside and around the bay.
The ordinary winds at this place are from the S.W. and W.S.W. in
the morning ; towards ten o'clock it veres to the W. and W.N.W., from
which quarter it freshens till three or four o'clock, afterwards decreasing,
and finally becomes calm, which lasts until midnight, when light airs
96 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
come off from the land, continuing until daylight. In November there
are frequent short gales from the S.E., which blow from off the
high land, rushing down in violent squalls. The most dangerous gales
are from the north and west, on which side the bay is completely open ;
the sea sets in very heavy, and is more to be apprehended than the wind.
Fogs generally prevail in the morning to seaward ; these, however, do
not extend into the bay, and , when the wind from the N. W. sets in, they
are generally dissipated."
To these remarks on Monterey Bay, may be added the following, by
La Perouse, which, although written as long back as 1 786, may still be
valuable : — " In Monterey Bay the sea rolls to the foot of the sandy
downs which border the coast, and produces a noise, which we heard
when more than a league distant. The lands to the north and south of
this bay are elevated, and covered with trees. Vessels intending to stop
here must follow the southern shore, and when they have doubled Point
Pinos, which projects to the north, the presidency appears in view, and
they come to an anchor in 10 fathoms of water, within and rather near to
the Point, which shelters them from the winds of the sea. The Spanish
vessels which make a long stay at Monterey usually approach as near
the shore as the distance only of one or two cables' lengths, and moor in
six fathoms of water, by making fast to an anchor, which they bury in
the sand on the beach. They have then nothing to fear from the south
winds, which are sometimes strong, but not at all dangerous, as they blow
from the coast. We had soundings in every part of the bay, and anchored
at the distance of four leagues from the shore, in 60 fathoms, soft mud ;
but as the sea is heavy, it is not possible to remain in this situation
longer than a few hours, while waiting for day, or the clearing up of the
fog. It is impossible to describe either the number of whales with
which we were surrounded, or their familiarity. They blowed every
half minute within half a pistol-shot from our figures, and occasioned a
most annoying stench. We were unacquainted with this property in the
whale ; but the inhabitants informed us that the water thrown out by
them is impregnated with this offensive smell, which is perceived to a
considerable distance ; and to the fishermen of Greenland or of Nantucket,
this would probably have been no new phenomenon.
Almost incessant fogs envelope the coasts of Monterey Bay, which
renders the approach somewhat difficult. But for this circumstance there
would scarcely be a safer shore. No concealed rock extends further than
a cable's length ; and if the fog be too thick, it is easy to anchor and
wait for its clearing up, when the Spanish settlement is seen in the angle
formed by the southern and eastern shores.
The sea was covered with pelicans. It appears that these birds
never fly to a greater distance than 5 or 6 leagues from the land, and
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 97
navigators who meet with them during a fog, may be certain of being
no further distant from it. We saw them for the first time in Monterey
Bay, and I have since been informed that they are common over the
whole coast of California. The Spaniards call them alkatrce"
SAN FRANCISCO.— From Point Anno Nuevo, the north point of
Monterey Bay, the coast runs to the N.N.W. about 53 miles, and is for
the whole distance uninviting in appearance. Along the coast are the
San Bruno Hills, which gradually decrease in altitude, and become sandy
and barren, without any appearance of cultivation. On the north side
of the bay is Table Hill, 2569 feet high, from whence the coast trends
W.N.W. to Punta de los Reyes.
Since coming into the possession of the Americans, this harbour has
become of great importance, on account of the great quantities of gold
that are found up the country, and now a great trade is carried on with
the Sandwich Islands and China. The principal town in the bay is San
Francisco, situated at Yerba Buena Cove, on the south side of the
entrance, which, although but recently built, boasts of several churches,
an exchange, a theatre, and some hotels of the largest size. Some of the
houses are built of stone, although many are only of wood and sun-burnt
clay ; but these are rapidly giving place to more substantial structures.
The streets are said to be well laid out, but there is no drainage; the
hasty erection of the town precluding such an arrangement. The popu-
lation is represented to amount to over 60,000.
In the north-east part of the Bay of San Pablo, is the city of Benicia,
situated on the north side of the Straits of Karquines, leading to the
Sacramento River. It is a rising place, and said to possess greater com-
mercial advantages than San Francisco, as vessels of the largest size can
lie close to the shore. Sacramento City is a considerable distance to the
north-east of Benicia; it is situated on the Sacramento River at the
junction of the American Fork, and on the first discovery of the gold
collected a large population. The houses were erected on piles, but at
the time of the floods in 1849, were almost entirely washed away, and we
believe have not been rebuilt.
The River Sacramento and country adjoining, have been described in
the following terms by Commander Sir E. Belcher : — " Throughout the
whole extent, from Elk station to the Sacramento mouth, the country is
one immense flat, bounded in the distance N.W. by Sierras Diavolo, "W.
Sierras Bolbones, and E.N.E. to E.S.E. by the Sierras Nievadas, from
whence no doubt this river springs, and rises in proportion to the rains
and thaws. Our case lay between banks, varying from 20 to 30 feet
above the river-level, apparently, from its strata, of differently composed
clay and loose earth, produced by some great alluvial deposit. Sand did
occur at times, but not a rock or pebble varied the sameness of the banks.
H
98 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
These were, for the most part, belted with willow, ash, oak, or plane,
(platanus occidentalis,) which latter, of immense size, overhung the stream,
without apparently a sufficient hold in the soil to support them, so
much had the force of the stream denuded their roots.
Within, and at the verge of the banks, oaks of immense size were
plentiful. These appeared to form a band on each side, about 300 yards
in depth, and within (on the immense park-like extent, which we generally
explored when landing for positions) they were to be seen disposed in
clumps, which served to relieve the eye, wandering over what might
otherwise be described as one level plain or sea of grass. Several of these
oaks were examined, and some of the smaller felled. The two most re-
markable measured respectively 27 feet and 19 feet in circumference, at
3 feet above ground. The latter rose perpendicularly at a (computed)
height of 60 feet before expanding its branches, and was truly a noble
sight.
All the trees and roots on the banks afford unequivocal proofs of the
power of the flood-streams, the mud-line on a tree we measured ex-
hibiting a rise of 10 feet above the present level, and that of recent
date.
At the period of our examination, the river was probably at its lowest,
and much less than I had anticipated in regard to strength, being at times
almost still water ; and yet up to our present position, the Sulphur might
have been warped or towed by a steamer. During the rainy season,
which commences about the middle of November, and terminates about
the end of February, the river is said to overflow its banks, when its im-
petuosity is such that navigation (for the craft of this country I suppose)
is then impossible. The annual rains do not, however, of necessity
inundate these low lands, but in severe seasons, after heavy falls of snow,
they produce an immense sea, leaving only the few scattered emi-
nences, which art or nature have produced, as so many islets or spots
of refuge.
Upon these spots, the tribes who inhabit these low lands, are frequently
compelled to seek shelter, principally, however, on those artificially con-
structed— as all were which we examined. They consist merely of a
rounded pile, raised about 15 feet at the apex above the surrounding
level ; the space from which the earth is removed, forming a ditch to
carry off the superfluous water.
Our pilot termed them Rancherias, (as they also do any place to which
the natives resort,) and assured us that each was the separate property of
a distinct tribe. None exceed one hundred yards in diameter, and con-
fined within such a compass, it is fearful to contemplate the ravages,
which disease must make in an inclement season, or the misery which
the survivors must endure, thus pent up with the dead and dying.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 99
Lately, fever and ague carried off whole tribes ; and the spots they had
thus so carefully reared, were but their own tombs ! On one of these I
had fixed a station, and on digging to insert the spot (?), the parts of a
skeleton, with hair perfect, mixed with ashes, were turned up. It is,
therefore, probable that they burn their dead, to destroy the animal
matter, and prevent contagion. This Rancheria was assigned by our
pilot (an Indian) to the Onee-shan-a-tee tribe ; but as he appeared to
name every tribe below Point Victoria (where they are wallocks) by
the same appellation, I am induced to attach little importance to his
nomenclature, as I have been since informed that they keep to the
left bank.
At a position nearer Point Victoria, where no mound was apparent,
many entire skeletons were scattered about, above ground; which pro-
bably may have resulted from the mortality before alluded to (a few years
since) having cut them off before they could reach their Rancheria. My
first impression was, that some great battle had been fought, and that
their dead had been left. But this is not customary, and they would not
have been left so complete by birds or beasts of prey. As these skeletons
appeared less disturbed, it is probable that at these seasons of inundation,
birds and beasts retire to the mountains or wooded elevations."
On approaching the coast in the neighbourhood of San Francisco, the
country has by no means an inviting aspect. To the north, it rises in a
lofty range, whose highest point is known as the Table Hill, and
forms an iron-bound coast from Punta de los Reyes to the mouth of
the harbour.
To the south, there is an extended sandy beach, behind which rise
the sand-hills of San Bruno, to a moderate height. There are no symp-
toms of cultivation, nor is the land on either side fit for it ; for in the
former direction it is mountainous, in the latter sandy, and in both
barren. The entrance to the harbour is striking : bold and rocky shores
confine the rush of the tide, which, a recent writer observes, bore
us on and through a narrow passage into a large estuary ; in this,
several islands and rocks lie scattered around : some of the islands are
clothed with vegetation to their very tops ; others are barren and covered
with guano, having an immense number of sea-fowls hovering over,
around, and alighting upon them. The distant shores of the bay
extend north and south, far beyond the visible horizon, exhibiting one
of the most spacious, and at the same time, safest ports in the world.
To the east rises a lofty inland range, known by the name of La
Sierra.
Commander Wilkes mentions :— " At the time of our visit, the country
in the interior of the bay altogether presented rather a singular appearance.
100 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
owing, as I afterwards observed, to the withered vegetation and the
ripened wild oats of the country. Instead of a lively green hue, it had
generally a tint of a light straw-colour, showing an extreme want of
moisture. The drought had continued for eleven months ; the cattle
were dying in the fields ; and the first view of California was not calcu-
lated to make a favourable impression either of its beauty or fertility."
The bar of San Francisco Bay, as it has been termed, lies about four
miles outside the entrance. The least depth of water is 4J fathoms, but it
is at times very dangerous on account of the heavy breakers. It can be
avoided by keeping the southern shore aboard, where deeper water is
found. At the time of new and full moon, a swell sets in upon this
coast, and causes heavy and remarkable breakers. These were experi-
enced by Commander Wilkes, in 1841, who says : — " While standing out
from San Francisco, the wind died away, and we were obliged to anchor
in 7 fathoms ; but a few hours after this a heavy swell arose, apparently
without cause, and in a short time we were riding in the midst of breakers,
many of which broke over and swept our decks, rendering our situation
very precarious for several hours. Vessels, at these times, should avoid
leaving the bay of San Francisco without a sufficient breeze to carry them
to sea or beyond the influence of the breakers. If becalmed, vessels may
anchor in 12 fathoms water with perfect safety."
The entrance to the bay is very striking, bold, and rocky ; a mile wide
and three miles in length, with deep water and no obstructions. It then
expands into an extensive bay, in which lie several islands ; that of San
Angelo is the largest and highest, and covered with vegetation to its very
top. The next in size are Yerba Buena and Alcantras. The smaller
ones are covered with guano, over which an immense number of sea-fowl
are seen hovering. The shores of the bay extend north and south beyond
the visible horizon; to the east is the coast range, and beyond rise the
lofty California!! mountains, brilliant with all the beautiful tints that the
atmosphere in this climate gives.
The Bay of San Francisco is 36 miles in length by an average of 6 in
width ; a large portion of its southern, eastern, and northern shores are
bordered by extensive and wide mud-flats, preventing the landing, at low
water, of even a boat ; so much so that the eastern shore may be said to
be inaccessible for a distance of 30 miles ; and this impediment prevents
it from ever becoming useful, except by the construction of extensive
artificial works. On the north it is bounded by the Straits of San Pablo,
which divide it from the bay of that name.
The Bay of San Pablo is nearly circular, about ten miles in diameter,
the larger segment of which is a mud-flat, with but a few feet of water
over it ; this renders its shore on the western side quite inaccessible. On
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 101
the east side is the channel, with a sufficient depth of water for large
vessels, leading to the Straits of Karquines, at the mouth of the Sacra-
mento River.
On the western side of the Bay of San Francisco, from the Straits of
San Pablo, for a distance of 15 miles, the country is broken and moun-
tainous, and the shores rocky and indented by small bays, which are
useless.
These obstructions reduce this extensive bay very much in size, and it
becomes still more so when the safety and convenience of vessels is taken
into consideration ; indeed, with the deep water, cross tides, and exposed
situations, there are but two safe anchorages, viz : — Yerba Buena and
Sausalito.
Yerba Buena lies on the south of the entrance, between the island and
town of the same name, and is but of small extent, with mud-flats, bare
at low water, to the channel ; it is also very much exposed to the pre-
vailing winds, which blow at times with great violence. It is the usual,
but by no means the best anchorage, and has but a scanty supply of water,
not sufficient for the population of the town, or the vessels that frequent
it ; this, added to the rocky point on which the town is situated, will pre-
vent it from ever becoming the seat of trade.
Sausalito or Whaler s Harbour is on the north side of the entrance,
under Table Hill, which protects vessels from the prevailing westerly
winds. This anchorage is the principal resort of whalers. Here they
can obtain wood and water, and refit. The water in the summer is ob-
tained from small springs. The extent of land around this bay is limited
to a few acres, the hills rising precipitately, and the high spurs cutting off
communication with the country adjoining it.
From Yerba Buena the distance to the mouth of the bay of San Pablo
is 10 miles, the course N. by W., passing to the right of San Angelos
Island, and to the left of Molate. The points San Pedro and San
Pablo, which form the mouth of the bay, are two miles asunder.
The channel to the Strait of Karquines is on the east side of the
bay of San Pablo. It has not less than 4| fathoms water, and is a mile
wide.
The Strait of Karquines, through which the river Sacramento dis-
charges its waters, runs nearly east and west for the distance of 8 miles,
and at its narrowest point is half a mile wide, with very deep water from
12 to 17 fathoms. The banks on both sides are high, and composed of
sandstone. The Napa Creek empties into the strait from the north,
about a mile from the bay of San Pablo. It affords fresh water.
Passing through Karquines Strait, the Bay of Sooson is entered. It
extends eleven miles to the north-east, and is two miles wide. Sooson
Creek flows into it on the west, and on the east it receives the waters.
102 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
of the Sacramento and its tributaries. Sooson Bay is not deep, and
the greater part of it to the north-east has only sufficient water to float
boats.
The channels through the delta of the Sacramento are narrow, and
pass into each other, forming islands. These cover an area of 25 square
miles, which is entirely overgrown with Tula (Scirpus lacustris). The
true channel of the river lies through the south branch, its direction being
due east. It has sufficient water for vessels not drawing over 12 feet.
Eleven miles from Sooson Bay, the course of the river changes to the
north for two miles. At this point the left hand channel must be taken,
as it is the one leading to the Sacramento proper, the right one leading to
Marsh's Landing and the San Joachin. In proceeding up the Sacramento,
the river gradually changes its course to the north, with several con-
siderable bends ; and at the low stage of water is navigable as far as
New Helvetia (Captain Suter's), at the mouth of the American Fork, a
distance of 50 miles above where its deltas discharge into Sooson Bay,
and, by the water communication, eighty miles from Yerba Buena.
Three and a half miles above the American Fork, sand-banks are en-
countered. These intercept the navigation during the dry season, and
are met with as far as the mouth of the Feather River, across which
there is a bar and ford, but it is partly quicksand. Above the Feather
River, the Sacramento changes its character, becoming very tortuous.
During the annual freshlets, these rivers would afford good opportunities
for the transportation of timber from the upper country, where it is found
of large dimensions, and in great abundance.
The branch leading to the mouth of the San Joachin is 10 miles long,
and is navigable for vessels to that place. The San Joachin can only be
ascended in boats, and with these but a few miles in the dry season ; in
the season of the rains, the country for several miles around its mouth
is overflowed, and when not under water, is a large marsh.
Captain Wilkes says : — " The Bay of San Francisco is well adapted
for a naval depot, or a place for whalers to recruit at. There is no place
where a natural site for a town can be found throughout the whole bay ;
and it appears extremely difficult to select one where the locality would
permit of extensive artificial improvements."
The following directions are by Captain Beechey, R.N., a copy of
whose survey of the harbour is on our chart of the coast, and to which we
would refer the reader : —
" The harbour of San Francisco, for the perfect security it affords to
vessels of any burthen, and the supplies of fresh beef and vegetables,
wood, and fresh water, may vie with any port on the north-west coast of
America. It is not, however, without its disadvantages, of which the
difficulty of landing at low water, and the remoteness of the water-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 103
ing-place from the only anchorage which I could recommend, are the
greatest.
Ships bound to San Francisco from the northward and westward,
should endeavour to make Punta de los Reyes, a bold and conspicuous
headland, without any danger lying off it sufficiently far to endanger the
ship. In clear weather, when running for the land before the latitude is
known, or the Punta can be distinguished, its situation may be known by
a Table-Hill terminating the range that passes at the back of Bodega. This
hill in one with the Punta de los Reyes bears E. (mag.} If ships are not
too far off, they will see, at the same time, San Bruno, two hills to the
southward of San Francisco, having the appearance of islands ; and from
the mast-head, if the weather be very clear, the South Farallon will, in
all probability, be seen. Punta de los Reyes, when viewed from the
W. or S.W., has also the appearance of an island, being connected by
low land to the two hills eastward. It is of moderate height, and, as it
stands at the angle formed by the coast-line, cannot be mistaken. Sound-
ings may be had off this coast, in depths varying with the latitude. In
the parallel of the Farallones they extend a greater distance from the
main land, in consequence of these islands lying beyond the general
outline of the coast.
The Farallones are two clusters of rocks, which, in consequence of the
shoals about them, are extremely dangerous to vessels approaching San
Francisco in foggy weather. The southern cluster, of which in clear
weather one of the islands may be seen from the mast-head eight or nine
leagues, is the largest and highest, and lies exactly S. 3° E. true, 18
miles from Punta de los Reyes. The small cluster of rocks lies to the
N. W., and still further in that direction there are breakers ; but I do
not know how far they extend from the rocks above water. In a thick
foggy night, we struck soundings in 25 fathoms, stiff clay, near them ;
and on standing off, carried regular soundings to 32 fathoms, after which
they deepened rapidly.*
Coming from the southward, or when inside the Farallones, the position
of the entrance to San Francisco may be known by the land receding
considerably between the table-hill already mentioned, and San Bruno
* According to Vancouver there is also a cluster of rocks, scarcely above the
surface of the water, at the distance of 12£ miles S. 36° W. from Punta de los Reyes.
There may also be sunken rocks to the south-eastward of the Farallones, as the
following paragraph appeared in the New York Gazette, in August, 1850: — "The
brigantirie Kalama struck upon a sunken rock on the 10th of April, off the harbour
of San Francisco, not laid down in any chart At the time, the south-east Farallon
bore N.W., distant about 12 miles. Hove about, sounded, and cruised about for two
hours, but could find no soundings. The Kalama drew 12 feet water at the time of
leaving San Francisco."
104 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Hill, which, at a distance, appears to terminate the ridge extending from
Santa Cruz to the northward. The land to the northward or southward
of these two hills has nothing remarkable about it to a stranger ; it is,
generally speaking, sufficiently high to be seen 13 to 15 leagues, and
inland is covered with wood.
About 8^ miles from the fort, at the entrance of San Francisco, there
is a bar of sand extending in a S. by E. direction across the mouth of
the harbour. The soundings, on approaching it, gradually decrease to
4£ and 6 fathoms low water, spring tide, depending upon the situation of
the ship ; and as regularly increase on the opposite side to no bottom
with the hand-leads. In crossing the bar, it is well to give the northern
shore a good berth, and bring the small white island, Alcatrasses, in one
with the fort or south bluff, if it can be conveniently done, as they may
then ensure six fathoms ; but if ships get to the northward, so as to bring
the south bluff in one with the Island of Yerba Buena, they will find but
4| ; which is little enough with the heavy sea that sometimes rolls over
the bar; besides, the sea will sometimes break heavily in that depth, and
endanger small vessels : to the northward of this bearing the water is
more shallow. Approaching the entrance, the Island of Alcatrasses may
be opened with the fort ; and the best directions are to keep mid-channel,
or on the weather side. On the south shore the dangers are above water ;
and it is only necessary to avoid being set into the bay, between the fort
and Point Lobos. If necessary, ships may pass inside, or to the south-
ward of the One Mile Rock; but it is advisable to avoid doing so, if
possible. On approaching it, guard against the tide, which sets strong
from the outer point toward it, and in a line for the fort. Off Punta
Bon eta there is a dangerous reef, on which the sea breaks very heavy : it
lies S.W. from the point, and no ship should approach it nearer than to
bring the fort in one with Yerba Buena Island.
In the entrance it is particularly necessary to attend to the sails, in
consequence of the eddy tides and the flaws of wind that come off the
land. The boats should also be ready for lowering down on the instant,
as the entrance is very narrow, and the tides, running strong and in eddies,
are apt to sweep a ship over upon one side or the other, and the water is
in general too deep for anchorage ; besides, the wind may fail when most
required. The strongest tides and the deepest water lie over on the north
shore. Should a ship be swept into the sandy bay west of the fort, she
will find good anchorage on a sandy bottom in 10 and 15 fathoms out
of the tide ; or in the event of meeting the ebb at the entrance, she
might haul in, and there await the change. There is no danger off the
fort at a greater distance than 100 yards.
As soon as a ship passes the fort, she enters a large sheet of water in
which are several islands, two rocks above water, and one under,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 105
exceedingly dangerous to shipping, of which I shall speak hereafter.
One branch of the harbour extends in a S.E. by S. direction, exactly 30
miles, between two ridges of hills, one of which extends along the coast
towards the Bay of Monterey, and the other from San Pablo, close at the
back of San Jose to San Juan Baptista, where it unites with the former.
This arm terminates in several little winding creeks, leading up to the
missions of Santa Clara and San Jose. The other great branch takes a
northerly direction ; passes the Puntas San Pablo and San Pedro, opens
out into a spacious basin, ten miles in width, and then converging to a
second strait, again expands, and is connected with three rivers, one of
which is said to take its rise in the rocky mountains near the source of
the Columbia.
As a general rule in San Francisco, the deepest water will be found
where the tide is the strongest; and out of the current there is always a
difficulty in landing at low water. All the bays, except such as are
swept by the tide, have a muddy flat extending nearly from point to
point, great part of which is dry at low water, and occasions the before-
mentioned difficulty of landing ; and the north-eastern shore, from
Punta San Pablo to the Rio Calaveros, beyond San Jose, is so flat that
light boats only can approach it at high water. In low tides it dries
some hundred yards off shore, and has only one fathom water at an
average distance of 1 J mile. The northern side of the great basin beyond
San Pablo is of the same nature.
After passing the fort a ship may work up for the anchorage without
apprehension, attending to the lead and the tides. The only hidden
danger is a rock, with one fathom on it at low water, spring tides, which
lies between Alcatrasses and Yerba Buena Islands. It has seven fathoms
alongside it : the lead, therefore, gives no warning. The marks when on
it are, the north' end of Yerba Buena Island in one with two trees
(nearly the last of the straggling ones) south of Palos Colorados, a wood
of pines situated on the top of the hill, over San Antonio, too conspicu-
ous to be overlooked ; the left hand or S.E. corner of the Presidio just
open with the first cape to the westward of it; Sausalito Point open |
point with the north end of Alcatrasses ; and the Island of Molate in one
with Punta de San Pedro. When to the eastward of Alcatrasses, and
working to the S.E., or, indeed, to the westward, it is better not to stand
towards this rock nearer than to bring the table-peak in one with the
north end of Alcatrasses Island, or to shut in Sausalito Point with the
south extreme of it. The position of the rock may generally be known
by a ripple ; but this is not always the case.
There are no other directions necessary in working for Yerba Buena
Cove, which I recommend as an anchorage to all vessels intending to
remain at Sau Francisco.
106 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
In the navigation of the harbour much advantage may be derived from
a knowledge of the tides. It must be remembered that there are two
separate extensive branches of water lying nearly at right angles with
each other. The ebbs from these unite in the centre of the bay, and
occasion ripplings and eddies, and other irregularities of the stream,
sometimes dangerous to boats. The anchorage at Yerba Buena Cove is
free from these annoyances, and the passage up to it is nearly so after
passing the Presidio. The ebb begins to make first from the Santa Clara
arm, and runs down the south shore a full hour before the flood has done
about Terba Buena and Angel Island ; and the flood, in its return, makes
also first along the same shore, forcing the ebb over the Yerba Buena
side, where it unites with the ebb from the north arm.
The flood first strikes over the Lime Rock,* and passing the Island of
Alcatrasses, where it diverges, one part goes quietly to Santa Clara, the
other sweeping over the sunken rock, and round the east end of Angel
Island, unites with a rapid stream through the narrow channel formed by
Angel Island and the main, and both rush to the northward through the
Estrecho de San Pablo to restore the equilibrium of the basin beyond,
the small rocks of Pedro Blanco and the Alcatrasses Island lying in the
strength of the stream.
The mean of 80 observations gave
the time of high water (full and
change) at Yerba Buena an-
chorage lOh. 52m.
The tide at the springs rises . . 7ft. 10 in. sometimes 8ft. Sin.
Neap 1ft. 10 in.
Average rate of ebb at spring tide 2k. Of. at neap Ik. Of.
Flood .... Ik. Of. „ Ok. 6f.
Duration of Flood 5h. 25m.
At Sausalito the mean of 17 obser-
vations gave the time of high
water, on the days of full and
change, as 9h. 51m.
Rise (full and change) .... 6ft. Oin.
Neap 2ft. Gin.
Duration of Flood 4h. 43m.
On quitting San Francisco, the direction of the wind in the offing
should be considered. If it blow from the S.W. there would be some
difficulty in getting out of the bay to the southward of Punta de los
Reyes. The residents assert that an easterly wind in the harbour does
not extend far beyond the entrance, and that a ship would, in consequence,
be becalmed on the bar and perhaps exposed to a heavy swell, or she
might be swept back again, and be obliged to anchor in an exposed
* See the plan in the Chart.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 107
situation. Northerly winds appear to be most generally approved, as
they are more steady and of longer duration than any others : they may,
indeed, be said to be the trade-wind on the coast. With them it is
advisable to keep the north shore on board, as the strength of the ebb
takes that side, and as on the opposite shore, near the One Mile Rock,
the tide sets rather upon the land. In case of necessity, a ship can
anchor to the eastward of the One Mile Rock ; but to the S.W. of the
rock the ground is very uneven. The wind generally fails in the entrance
or takes a direction in or out. From the fairway steer S.W. J W., and
you will carry seven fathoms over the bar, half ebb, spring tide. This I
judge to be a good course in and out with a fair wind. I would avoid,
by every endeavour, the chance of falling into the sandy bay to the
southward of Lobos Point, and also closing with the shore to the N.W.
of the Punta Boneta."
Captain Belcher has said : — " About lOh. we got sight of the land and
ran in, the breeze freshening, as it generally does on entering the heads.
This is a very common occurrence at this port, requiring small sail to
beat out, and suddenly losing the tide and breeze together. It is, there-
fore, advisable to keep the fairway marks open until reaching the bar,
before hauling to the southward, by which more wind will be procured
and unpleasant swells escaped.
Considering myself a fair pilot for this port, I would say to those
approaching it, after decreasing the depth from 30 to 1 5 fathoms, mud, if
the wind be light it is advisable, or preferable, to anchor and wait for
daylight, or fog clearing off, but be prepared to weigh and stand off
should the wind freshen ; but do not go beyond 30 fathoms. The breeze
always dispels the fog. Do not desert a safe harbour when an hour or
two will show the road in.
The fort in one with Yerba Buena Island leads over the bar in four
fathoms, and no ship should cross farther north on account of the rolling
swell ; but the best course is to keep Las Alcatrasses touching the
fort."
To this may be added the remarks of Captain John Hall : —
" In entering this port, which is one of the best and most interesting,
from its security and magnitude, in the world, great attention must be
paid to the tides, which, during the full and change of the moon, run
very rapid, and, I should think, in mid-channel at the rate of six miles
per hour. A vessel going in would do well to keep in the middle of the
stream, as on both sides there are very strong eddies, in which you are
apt to lose the command of the helm, and consequently are obliged to
anchor. After getting within the heads, keep Fort Blanco about a point
on the starboard bow. Passing the fort, the anchorage is situated in a
small bay, immediately abreast of the presidio , where a vessel will find
108 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
good holding-ground in five fathoms, about a cable's length from the
beach. Provisions are cheap. The harbour also abounds with fish,
which can be procured with a net in great quantities."
The entrance of the bay has also been surveyed by M. de Tessan, of
the French navy, from whose chart we copy the following : — " The
currents of ebb and flood, being very strong in the channel (6 knots),
occasion, behind the points, very strong rollers, in which it is dangerous
for a vessel to be placed. In consequence the channel is very narrow,
half a mile, and small vessels only can attempt to tack in it.
To enter the channel, it will be necessary to wait until the flood. You
can remain under sail when you anchor, should the breeze be slight, until
the ebb-tide."
The following remarks on entering the harbour of San Francisco will
be found useful to masters of ships bound to that place. They are
derived chiefly from Mr. Richardson, Captain of the port, and also an
experienced pilot for that harbour : —
" Ships coming in from the south Farallones should run in on a N.E.
by E. \ E. course, and bring Point Lobos on the same bearing, in order
to cross the bar in 6J fathoms, and to keep as nearly mid-channel as
possible, there being a bank of four fathoms on the south shore, outside,
which has generally a heavy swell on it. There is a similar bank also on
the north shore, extending at least five miles out.
Between these two banks there is anchorage in 10, 12, and 15 fathoms,
as you draw in. After getting inside, and having passed the fort, you
can anchor any where in as far as the Alcatrasses, there being no hidden
danger.
In going for Sausalito, with a light wind and ebb tide, it will be very
advisable to steer directly for Angel Island, as the tide sets strong against
Sausalito Bay, and tends to heave the ship into deep water.
A ship leaving Sausalito, should avoid being set into Lime Rock Bay,
by standing over towards the fort point, and from the fort point stand
across to the northern shore to keep out of the eddy current in the S.E.
bay, outside the fort.
The ebb makes on each shore at least two hours before it sets out in
the stream, and, therefore, a ship should not leave the anchorage until
the tide had fallen a foot, by the shore. These remarks apply chiefly to
vessels leaving with a foul wind.
If the wind be fair, and of sufficient strength to render the ship per-
fectly under command, she can then start at the last of the flood.
The ebb tide makes from Yerba Buena Bay across towards Lime
Rock, thence into Mile Rock Bay (so that ships going out have not
unfrequently been set between Mile Rock and the main), and from that
bay it runs to the N.W. round Point Lobos.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 109
Outside the fort-point the ebb sets to the N.W. round Point Boneta,
and the flood runs to the S.E.
If the Farallones are not made, and the position of the harbour not
very certain, some difficulty may be experienced in discovering the
entrance, particularly from the northward. It may, however, be known
by a long sandy stripe of land just to the southward of the entrance,
which has much the appearance of a hay field ; and also not far from this
shore is a remarkable rock, having an arch in it.
To the northward of the entrance are three or four rocks close
in-shore, very white on their tops, and at nearly equal distances from
each other."
The bay is now being re-surveyed by order of the United States
Government, and the following buoys have been moored, under the
superintendence of Commander -Cadwallader Ringgold, U.S.N.
Tonquin Point Shoal, making out from North Bay, has been sur-
veyed, and a black spar-buoy moored on the N.W. end, in 15 feet at low
water. Vessels coming in from sea, are directed to pass the buoy on the
starboard bow, at the distance of two cables length.
Blossom Rock. — This rock has a large black buoy, terminating in a
cone of three feet, moored upon it, in 15 feet water. The point of the
rock lies 20 feet north-eastward, from the buoy, and has only six feet
upon it at low water. The tide sweeps over and across this dangerous
rock with irregularity and great velocity. It must, therefore, be ap-
proached with great caution, particularly with light winds.
Southampton Middle Grounds. — This extensive shoal, extending north
and south, lies to the eastward of Angel Island, and has on its south
extremity a black spar-buoy in 15 feet, at low water. On its centre there
is a red spar buoy, arid on its north extremity there is also a black and
white spar-buoy, both of which are in a similar depth. The soundings
on the west side of this shoal, decrease abruptly from five fathoms blue
mud to hard sand, in three fathoms.
Invincible Rock is a dangerous shoal near the Straits of San Pablo,
and situated about 400 yards to the southward of the Two Brothers.
It is marked by a black spar-buoy in 15 feet, at low water.
Kincom Point Rocks. — A ledge of rocks lying off this point, with a
channel inside, has a black spar buoy moored upon it, in six feet at low
water.
Pilots are also stated to have been appointed, Dec. 30th, 1850.
On the 1st of November, 1851, the following notice was issued: —
" On and after this day, a lantern will be hoisted at dark, at the outer
Telegraph Station, showing a blue and yellow light seaward, at an eleva-
tion of 3000 feet ( ? ) above tide water. The position of this station is
110 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
such, that on the centre bar, in six fathoms water, it bears E.N.E. \ E.,
Alcatras and Fort Head being in one."
POINT DE LOS REYES.— From the entrance to San Francisco
the coast trends to the N. 62° W., a distance of nearly 30 miles, to Point
de los Reyes. For a distance of about 12 miles, it consists of abrupt
cliffs, with very unequal surfaces, and has a most dreary and barren
aspect ; it then falls lower, and forms a low, sandy, projecting point. A
few scattered trees grow on the more elevated land, and some patches of
dwarf shrubs in the vallies ; but the rest of the country consists of barren
rocks, or with a very slight covering of vegetation. Off the low pro-
jecting point some breakers extend nearly two miles to the E.S.E. To
the westward of this low projecting point, the coast bends a little inwards,
and forms with Point de los Reyes an open bay, named, by Vancouver,
Port Sir Francis Drake ; because he supposed it to be the place in which
that navigator had anchored. The eastern side of the bay is composed
of white cliffs, as is also the coast between it and Point de los Reyes,
though the latter is lower. In consequence of the exposed state of the
anchorage, being open to the S. and S.E. quarters, it is unsafe to anchor
here when the wind blows from those directions. It is said that you may
occasionally anchor here in May to October.
Vancouver remarked in November, 1792: — "According to the Spaniards,
this is the bay in which Sir Francis Drake anchored ; but however safe
he might then have found it, in this season of the year it promised us
little shelter or security. The wind blowing fresh out of the bay from
N.N.W. I did not think it proper to lose the opportunity of proceeding
with all dispatch to San Francisco ; where there was little doubt of our
obtaining a supply of those refreshments which were now much wanted
by the whole crew." Captain Beechey has also expressed an unfavourable
opinion of this anchorage : — " We passed Point de los Reyes, and awaited
the return of day off some white cliffs, which, from being situated so
near the parallel of lat. 38° N., are, in all probability, those which
induced Sir Francis Drake to bestow upon this country the name of New
Albion. They appear on the eastern side of a bay too exposed to
authorise the conjecture of Vancouver, that it was the same in which Sir
Francis refitted his vessel."
Point de los Reyes, in lat. 38° V 30" N. and long. 123° 2' 30" W., is
a high, bold, and very prominent headland, visible, in clear weather, 50
miles off. It is one of the most conspicuous promontories on the coast,
south of Cape Classet, at Fuca Strait, and cannot easily be mistaken, as
when seen from the north or south, at the distance of five or six leagues,
it appears insular, owing to its projecting into the sea, and the land
behind it being less high than usual near the coast ; but the interior
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. Ill
country preserves a more lofty appearance, although these mountains
extend in a direction further from the shore than those along the coast
to the northward of the point. The point stretches like a peninsula into
the ocean, where its highest part terminates in steep cliffs, moderately
elevated, and nearly perpendicular to the sea, which beats against them
with great violence. Southward of the point the shore is composed of
low white cliffs, and forms Sir Francis Drake's Bay.
THE FARALLONES are a group of detached islets, or rather rocks
off the entrance to San Francisco. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direc-
tion, and form two groups, the north-western and south-eastern ; the
distance from the extremes of which is about 12 miles. They are
apparently of volcanic origin, as most of the rocks have evidently been
once in a state of fusion. It is said that there is no fresh water on them,
and that they are much resorted to by sea fowl. The south-eastern island
is considered a good mark for San Francisco, and it is probable, that
after the lapse of a few years, a lighthouse may be erected on it.
In the whole group of the Farallones, there are seven which appear
above the water. The south-east islet is the largest of the group, and is
distant from the fort, at the entrance of San Francisco, 28 miles in a
S. 68° W. (true) direction. This islet is about 150 or 200 feet high, and
on the south-east side, there is anchorage in 11 fathoms water, hard
(probably rocky) bottom, which is tolerably sheltered from the north-
west wind and sea.
It is said, that the larger of the Farallones has the form of a saddle,
when viewed in certain directions, in consequence of each extremity
rising into a hill. In order to distinguish between the north-west and
south-east groups of these islets, it is only necessary to observe, that the
former group shows three rocks of nearly the same size, lying nearly east
and west of each other, nearly a mile apart, and sending off a reef to the
eastward, about a mile in extent.
About one-third the distance from the south-east Farallones to San
Francisco, there are 41 fathoms, sand and mud ; from whence the sound-
ings gradually diminish until up with the bar, off the entrance to the
harbour. The bottom in the vicinity of the Farallones, appears to be
of a very tenacious quality, as Captain Beechey says, " we stood to the
southward from Point de los Reyes, during the night, and about three
o'clock in the morning, unexpectedly struck soundings upon a clayey
bank, in 35 fathoms, very near the Farallones, a dangerous cluster of
rocks, which, until better known, ought to be avoided. The ship was
put about immediately ; but the next cast was 25 fathoms, in so stiff a
clay, that the line was broken. The weather was very misty, and a long
swell rolled towards the reefs, which, had there been less wind, would
have obliged us to anchor ; but we increased our distance from them,
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR.
and deepened the water. This cluster of rocks is properly divided into
two parts, of which, the south-eastern is the largest and the highest, and
may be seen 9 or 10 leagues in clear weather. The most dangerous part
is apparently towards the north west."
BODEGA BAY is about 40 miles north of San Francisco, and is a
small and inconvenient port, inaccessible, except by vessels of a light
draught of water. The anchorage outside, is rocky and dangerous. Off
Cape Bodega, there is a small rocky islet, having a reef extending off it,
about three quarters of a mile to the south-eastward, close to which are
6 and 9 fathoms. It is high water on the days of full and change, at 1 Ih.
30 m., with a rise of tide of 7 feet.
This port has lately been surveyed by Commander Sir E. Belcher,
R.N., who says of it : — " Bodega is an extensive bay, almost joining (by
a creek) the port of Sir Francis Drake, at its southern end, which is
very shallow. On the northern side of the bay, at a small creek or
estuary (nearly dry at low water springs) stand two Russian buildings ;
one a store-house, the floor of which was filled with grain and a few
marine stores, and the other, the residence of those left in charge,
amounting perhaps to three men, their wives, and children.
The anchorage is within a rocky islet, with a reef and bank extending
about three-quarters of a mile, which is covered thickly by fucus gigan-
teus. The bottom is coarse sand, with some patches of clay, but bad
holding-ground. Here, however, it is customary for the Russians (who
have excellent ground tackle) to ride out the south-west gales, inasmuch
as the heavy swell which immediately tumbles in, or generally preceeds,
prevents any moderate sailing vessel from making any head, and the sea-
room is but scant. I am informed that the Russians have experienced
several losses here, but no lives.
At the houses there is excellent water carefully conducted by spouts,
for the convenience of hose, which allow of filling without removing the
casks ; and although we found the runs small, yet being steady and
continuous, they afforded employment for two boats. I am satisfied, also,
that it is as good, and more expeditiously obtained than at Sausalito,
San Francisco, where it is necessary to fill from wells, and injure the
boats embarking it."
This port has also been visited by Captain John Hall, who says: — " To
sail into this port, when the winds are from the N.W., (and these are
the prevailing winds throughout nearly the whole year, with the excep-
tion of the winter months), a vessel coming from the northward, should
pass between the point and the rock, as a dangerous shoal lies immediately
off the south end of the rock. We anchored with the rock bearing
W. by S., distant three-fourths of a mile. The bottom is good holding-
ground all throughout, being a mixture of clay and sand. In port, a
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 113
vessel is sheltered from all winds but the South and S.W. The watering-
place is situated in the small bay where the Russian storehouse stands,
and the water is good and easy of access."
In November, 1792, the Port of Bodega was visited by Vancouver, who
thus writes : — " Our attention was directed to the appearance of a port
to the eastward, for which we immediately steered. By sun-set, we
were close in with the shore, which extended from N.W. by W. to
S.S.E. | E., so that we were considerably embayed. We were now off
the northern point of an inner bay that seemed divided into two or
three arms, the soundings had been regular from 40 to 28 fathoms, the
bottom a bed of coral rock, sand, and shells. Being anxious not to
leave any opening on the coast unexamined, and as the evening was
serene and pleasant, I was induced to anchor, though on a rocky bottom,
off this point for the night, which bore by compass from us N.E. by E,,
two miles distant, that my design might early in the morning be carried
into execution. Our situation here was by no means pleasant ; during
the night two deep sea lines were cut through by the rocks, and at
four in the morning the buoy was seen drifting past ship, and was
proved to have been severed in the same way. Lest the cable should
share the same fate, no time was lost in weighing the anchor ; fortunately,
however, the cable had not received any injury. A light breeze from
the land permitted us to stand across the bay, which we soon discovered
to be Port Bodega ; its north point is formed of low, steep, cliffs, and
when seen from the south, has the appearance of an island, but is firmly
connected with the main land. To the east the land retires and forms
a small inlet, apparently favourable to anchorage ; it has a flat rock, on
which the water broke, in its entrance, and has not any other visible
danger excepting that of being much exposed to the South and S.E.
winds. Not being able to sail into the bay, we stood towards its south
point, which lies from the north point S. 30° E., at the distance of seven
miles. Within these limits appeared three small openings in the coast,
one already noticed to the eastward of the north point, the other two
immediately within the south point ; across these a connected chain of
breakers seemed to extend, with three high white rocks, which nearly
blockaded the passage. Although very solicitous of gaining more intel-
ligence, this was all the information I was able to procure of this place,
which required to be minutely surveyed by our boats before the vessel
should enter ; the state of the weather was ill-calculated for such
service ; it was very dark and gloomy, and the depression of the mercury
in the barometer indicated an approaching storm. Our soundings, when
under 35 fathoms, were on a rocky bottom."
About 30 miles to the northward of the Port of Bodega, is the Russian
settlement of Ross, which, it is said, is now abandoned. It is situated
i
114 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
on land elevated about 100 feet above the sea, the outline of which is
cliffy, with alternate rocky and gravelly margin, rendering landing, ex-
cepting in very fine weather, nearly impracticable. The anchorage off
is bad, by reason of beds of rock above and below water, and the constant
liability to fogs, rendering it unsafe to break ground, unless with a fair
wind. The hills above it, which command the presidio, are sparingly
clothed with fir-trees. The main government establishment, or fort, as
such enclosures are termed in these countries, consists of a large square,
fenced in with strong planks of 15 feet in height, and furnished with
block-houses or watch-towers at two angles ; one commanding the sea,
and the other the land sides, or covering the east, south, and west
faces.
From Port Bodega to Cape Mendocino, the coast consists of high,
bold cliffs, with but few indentations ; and what dangers there are, lie
close to the shore. The kelp will always indicate foul ground, and it is
recommended to avoid it. After running along the coast a distance of
40 miles, you will reach Punta Barra de Arena, in about lat. 38° 50',
which is described by Vancouver, as " a conspicuous mark on the coast,
the shores to the north of it taking a N. 10° W. direction. Its northern
side is composed of black rugged rocks, on which the sea breaks with
great violence ; to the south of it the coast trends S. 35° E. Its southern
side is composed of low, sandy, or clayey cliffs, remarkably white, though
interspersed with streaks of a dull green colour. The country above it
rises with a gentle ascent, and is chequered with copses of forest trees
and clear ground, which gives it the appearance of being in a high state
of cultivation. The land, further south, is high, steep to the sea, and
presented a rude and barren aspect. As we approached the shore
advancing to the southward, the country became nearly destitute of
wood and verdure, at least that part of it in the vicinity of the sea shore,
which was nearly straight and compact. The more interior hills, rising
behind those forming the coast, were tolerably well wooded."
From Punta Barra de Arena, the coast runs to the N. by W., a distance
of about 55 miles to a slight projection, named Punta Delgada, imme-
diately to the eastward of which, the coast falls back about two leagues.
This part of the coast appeared to Vancouver on his first visit to be very
much broken, but a subsequent examination proved it to be compact,
the deception having been occasioned by the distance from which it was
viewed, and by the irregularity of the surface, which rises abruptly in
low sandy cliffs from a connected beach which uniformly composes the
sea shore. The interior country appears to be nearly an uninterruptec
forest, but towards the sea side, presents a pleasing variety of open
spaces. In sailing along the coast from Point Delgada, southward, to
Punta Barra de Arena, at the distance of four or five miles, the shore
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 115
will appear compact with two or three small rocky islets near it. As you
proceed, a distant view will be obtained of the inland country, which
is composed of very lofty rugged mountains, extending in a ridge
nearly parallel to the direction of the coast. These are in general
destitute of wood, and the more elevated parts are covered with
perpetual snow.
CAPE MENDOCINO.— From Point Delgada to Cape Mendocino
the distance is about 40 miles. Cape Mendocino is in latitude 40° 27' N.,
and is formed by two high promontories, about 10 miles apart ; the
southernmost, which is the highest, is situated in latitude 40° 23' N.
Off the cape are some rocky islets and sunken rocks, at near a league
from the shore. The southernmost of these from the northernmost
promontory lies S. 61° W., about a league distant; and within it are
two rocky islets, in shape much resembling hay-cocks. The northern-
most of them lies N. 3° W. distant five or six miles, and is nearly of
the same shape and size as the other, to which it is apparently connected
by a ledge of rocks, whose outermost part lies from the above promon-
tory, N. 38° W., about two leagues distant, having a smaller islet, about
midway between them. On some parts of this ledge, the sea constantly
breaks with great violence ; on others, at intervals only. The broken
water appeared to Vancouver from the mast-head to extend along the
coast as far north as could be discerned, which, however, was at no
great distance, owing to the weather being thick and hazy. The whole
of this cape, though by no means a very projecting headland, is very
remarkable, from being the highest on the sea-shore of this part of the
coast. The mountains at its back are considerably elevated, and form
altogether a high steep mass which does not break into perpendicular
cliffs, but is composed of various hills that rise abruptly and are
divided by many deep chasms. In some of these, as well as on some of
the ridges of the hills, are a few dwarf trees. The general surface is
covered with vegetation of a dull green colour, interspersed in some
places with perpendicular strata of red earth or clay. South of the cape,
the coast is nearly straight, forming only a trifling bend. Its elevation
is regular, it may be considered as high land, and is apparently steep-to,
as Vancouver sounded without gaining bottom with 120 fathoms of line,
at distances of from two to five leagues from the shore.
A sunken rock, on which the sea breaks occasionally, has lately been
discovered by Lieut. Knox, U.S. Navy, at about eight miles N.W. by
W. from the rocks off Cape Mendocino. Vessels passing the cape
should give it a berth of about nine miles, although a vessel may pass
inside the reef ; but the ground is foul.
To the northward of Cape Mendocino, the country is not so high
beyond the rocky islets, where it is of a moderate height. With the
116 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
south promontory of Cape Mendocino, bearing S. 60° E., distant 11
miles, it is stated, that there is no bottom with a line 120 fathoms
long.
Vancouver says, " From Cape Mendocino, the coast takes a direction
N. 13°E. After passing the above islets, the shores become straight
and compact, not affording the smallest shelter; and, although rising
gradually from the water's edge to a moderate height only, yet the
distant interior country was composed of hills of great elevation ; before
which, were presented a great variety of hills and dales, agreeably inter-
spersed with wood-land and clear spots. The coast we passed this after-
noon seemed to be generally defended by a sandy beach ; but the
evening brought us to a country of a very different description, whose
shores were composed of rocky precipices, with numberless small rocks
and rocky islets, extending about a mile into the sea; the most pro-
jecting part, which is situated in lat. 41° 8', obtained the name of Rocky
Point, (Trinidad Head, of the recent surveyors). When abreast of
Rocky Point, the colour of the sea suddenly changes from the oceanic
hue, to a very light river-coloured water, extending as far a-head as could
be discerned. A detached rocky islet, about half a mile in circuit, lies
from Rocky Point N. 11° W., distant 13 miles, and about half a league
from the shore. A passage may be obtained in 35 to 50 fathoms water,
black sandy bottom, within this rocky islet."
At about 15 miles north of Cape Mendocino, is the entrance of the
Eel River, a small stream, having nine feet water on the bar. The
entrance is represented to be very narrow, and the swell so high,
generally, as to render it difficult and dangerous for sailing vessels,
although steamers might enter and depart without difficulty.
HUMBOLDT BAY.— The entrance of this bay is about 25 miles to
the northward of Cape Mendocino. It is about half a mile wide
between the breakers, but when within, it widens considerably, the
whole extent of the bay being 16 miles long, and from four to five miles
wide. The entrance between the breakers is nearly straight, and its
direction is rather along the coast ; it is about a mile long, and is said to
have a depth of 18 to 21 feet at low water on the bar. This bay is
perfectly accessible, except in very heavy weather, when the sea breaks
entirely across the entrance. The surveyor, Lieut. Alden, U.S. Navy,
at the period of the examination, had no trouble in getting in, and was
able to beat out against a very light breeze, with little or no tide
in his favour. He thus describes it (f§51) : — " This body of water partakes
more of the character of a lagoon, than an ordinary bay. It is 16 miles
long, and from one to five broad. It is broadest at either extremity,
where it is but a great grassy flat, washed with about one foot of water,
(when the tide is out) and broken here and there by navigable sluices. The
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 117
entrance is practicable, except in very bad weather, wben the sea breaks
entirely across it. There are 21 feet on the bar at low water, and the
ordinary strength of the tide does not exceed two knots. Under
unfavourable circumstances, at low water, and with a very light breeze
blowing directly in the channel, the schooner went to sea without
difficulty. The two sea walls, or narrow necks of land, which so nearly
shut out the sea, are covered with sand-hills, ranging from 10 to 40 and
50 feet in height. On the North Spit, I have marked the place where,
I think, the lighthouse should be located. It is the nearest point to the
entrance, and is therefore less liable to be obscured by fog ; and with a
beacon father back, the two would form the best range to pass between
the north and south breakers — not that it should be attempted at night,
unless under the most favourable circumstances. The country is hilly,
almost mountainous, in the vincinity of Humboldt. The fir and the red
wood predominate in the forests, and I am informed that the land
possesses every requisite for farming purposes. The cattle luxuriate the
year round, in green grass, and the tallest grass I ever saw. The
temperature is very equable ; they have a slight frost in the fall, and the
winter only differs from the summer by being more pleasant. Elk and
deer are found in abundance, and many varieties of wild fowl frequent
the bay. There are no less than four villages or settlements on the
bay. Humboldt, at the entrance, has 13 houses ; Eureka as many ;
Bucksport is just taking a start, and its location is thought to be superior
to all the others, from the fact, that it has better water, and more room
for commercial purposes. Union Town is the largest, having about one
hundred houses. It is located in the North end of the bay. Its prox-
imity to the mine is only the advantage it has over the others, while the
difficulty of transporting supplies from the depot at Eureka seems to be
almost an insurmountable objection to its ever becoming a place of much
importance. Everything has to be carried in small boats up a very
narrow sluice, and that only at high water, while the nearest point of
water communication is a mile from the town. A road can be cut from
either of the other towns to communicate with the one from Union to
the mines, with but little expense or trouble."
TRINIDAD BAY.— This bay it 42 miles to the northward of Cape
Mendocino, and lies immediately under Trinidad Head, or Rocky Point
of Vancouver. On the west side of this point are some rocky islets,
named the Turtles. This bay is not very extensive, but it is a very
convenient and safe anchorage during six months of the year, and will
be found by vessels that have suffered from the strong head winds,
(northerly) that prevail along this coast, a comfortable harbour of refuge.
It is said, that in the vicinity of Trinidad Bay there are some valuable
mines, so that, after the lapse of a few years, it is likely to become a
118 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
place of importance. There are about 100 houses in the village (1851),
and the land in the vicinity, for agricultural purposes, is so rich that it
cannot be surpassed. The gigantic red-wood abounds here in all its
magnificence, always affording to the hardy settler the readiest and most
lasting material for neat and appropriate buildings. The fibre of this
wood is so straight, and so easily separated, that it is split, with com-
paratively little trouble, into all the different forms required for an
unpretending dwelling in a new country.
Trinidad Bay was visited on the 2nd of May, 1793, by Vancouver,
who thus writes : — " About 6 o'clock in the evening, we anchored in
eight fathoms water, dark sandy bottom, in Porto de la Trinidad. Our
station here was in a small open bay or cove, very much exposed, and
bounded by detached rocks, lying at a little distance from the shore.
When moored, the bearings from the ship were, a high, steep, rounding,
rocky headland, projecting a small distance from the general line of the
shore into the ocean, forming, by that means, the bay. This was the
northernmost land in sight, and bore by compass N. 75° W., distant
about three-quarters of a mile ; a high, round, barren rock, made white by
the dung of sea fowl, between which, and the above headland, we had
entered the bay, S. 50° W. at the like distance ; the high distant land
of Cape Mendocino, the southernmost land in sight, South; a rugged
rocky point forming the South-east point of the bay, S. 62° E. distant
one mile and a half ; and the nearest shore, North-east, about half a mile
from us.
The next morning, I went on shore with a guard of marines, and a
working party, in search of wood and water ; these were found con-
veniently situated, a little to the southward of a small Indian village.
The landing was tolerably good, being within several rocks, which lie a
little way from the shore, and greatly protect the beach from the violence
of the surf caused by the north-west swell that breaks with great force
on all parts of this coast.
How far the place is deserving the denomination of a port, I shall not
take upon me exactly to determine ; but in the language of mariners, it
can in no respect be considered as a safe retreat for ships ; not even the
station occupied by the Spaniards, which I conceived to be close up in
the N.N.W. part of the bay, between the main and a detached rock
lying from the headland, which forms the north-west point of the bay,
N. 72° E., about half a mile distant. There, two or three vessels moored
head and stern, may lie in six and seven fathoms water, sandy bottom.
The point above-mentioned will then bear by compass S.W. ; and th<
rocks lying off the south-east point of the bay, S. 50° E. Between these
points of the compass it is still exposed to the whole fury and violence
of those winds which, on our return to the southward, the preceding
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 119
autumn, blew incessantly in storms ; and when we approached the shores,
were always observed to take the direction of the particular part of the
coast we were near. Under these circumstances, even that anchorage,
though the most sheltered one the place affords, will be found to be
greatly exposed to the violence of these southern blasts, which not
only prevail during the most part of the winter seasons, but continued to
blow very hard in the course of the preceding summer. Should a vessel
part cables, or be driven from this anchorage, she must instantly be
thrown on the rocks lying close under her stern, where little else than
inevitable destruction is to be expected. The points of Trinidad Bay lie
from each other S. 52° E., and N. 52° W., about two miles asunder.
From this line of direction, the rocks that line the shore are' nowhere
more than half a mile distant. The round barren rocky islet lies from
the north-west point of the bay, S. by W., distant three quarters of a
mile ; this is steep-to, and has eight or nine fathoms water all round it,
and admits of a clear channel from nine to six fathoms deep, close to the
above point ; from thence to Rocky Point, the shores of the coast are
bounded by innumerable rocky islets, and several sunken rocks lying a
little without those that appear above water ; but I know of no danger
but what is sufficiently . conspicuous. The soundings of the bay are
regular, from nine to five fathoms, the bottom clear and sandy ; but as
our anchors were weighed with great ease, and came up quite clean, we
had reason to consider it to be not very good holding-ground."
This place was also visited by Commander Wilkes, who discovered a
small sunken rock between two islets. Plenty of good water may be
procured in the bay, but during strong westerly winds the anchorage is
unprotected.
At about 30 miles to the northward of Trinidad Head, is the entrance
to the Klamath, or Smith's River, on the bar of which there are about 17
feet at mean low water. The land on the north side of the river is high
and abrupt, but on the south side, a narrow neck of dry sand projects,
with a perpendicular rock on the extreme point. The current sweeps
out of the river with great velocity, causing heavy breakers on the bar,
which, at most times, prevent vessels from entering. The soundings out.
side the entrance are regular, and there are three sunken rocks about a
mile distant from the sandy point. The channel into the river is so
narrow, and the current so strong, that it is deemed unsafe for sailing
vessels to attempt to run in.
In the interior, along this portion of coast, there is a range of very high
mountains running in a direction parallel to the shore, the summits of
which can be seen in clear weather, above the hills which form this iron-
bound coast. One of these mountains, named Mount Shaste, is covered
with perpetual snow, and appears as though composed of large blocks of
120 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
rock ; its conical shape indicates its volcanic character, although no crater
is visible. The position of this mountain is about lat. 41° 20' N., and
long. 121° 45' W. The party under Captain Wilkes had a fine oppor-
tunity of observing this mountain, when travelling overland in 1841. "It
presented a magnificent sight, rising as it does to a lofty height, its steep
sides emerging from the mists which envelope its base, and seem to throw
it off to an immense distance ; its cleft summit gave proof of its former
active state as a volcano. The snow lies in patches on the sides and part
of the peak of this mountain ; but there is a great difference in the
position of its snow -line from that of Mount Wood, or St. Helen's. Its
height is said to be 14,390 feet, but Lieutenant Emmons thinks it not so
high."
PORT ST. GEORGE. — In sailing along the coast to the northward
of Trinidad Bay, towards Port St. George, it will be observed to be com-
posed of steep rocky precipices, broken by deep gullies, which, at a
distance, would lead one to suppose that there were harbours or breaks
in the land. The country is mountainous, and does not present so
pleasing an aspect as that to the southward of Trinidad Bay. In lat.
41° 47' N., you will reach Point St. George, which is composed of a
cluster of remarkable rocky hummocks, having low land behind them,
which gives them the appearance of an island, when seen from a distance.
Off the point there are a number of rocky islets and breakers.
Point St. George forms a bay on each side ; the northern of which is
named Pelican Bay, and the southern, St. George's Bay. Pelican Bay
is very spacious and secure during north-westerly gales ; but there are
several rocks close to the shore which must be avoided. Near these
rocks a stream discharges itself, from whence water can be procured by
boats. In St. George's Bay there is good anchorage during north-west
gales, under shelter of the rocky islets ; but no fresh water can be pro-
cured here.
Vancouver visited Port St. George in April, 1792, and thus writes: —
" Off Point St. George, there extends a very dangerous cluster of rocks,
named the Dragon Rocks. The outermost of these lies from Point St.
George, N. 52° W., three leagues distant. The rocks above water are
four in number, with many smaller ones, and numerous breakers
stretching from the outermost. Point St. George forms a bay on each
side ; that into which we stood from the north side is perfectly open to
the N.W., yet apparently sheltered from the W.S.W., and southwardly
winds by the Dragon Rocks ; the soundings we found regularly from 35
to 45 fathoms, black sand and muddy bottom ; when at the former depth,
Point St. George bore by compass S. 33° E., 10 miles; the northernmost
of the Dragon Rocks S. 7° W. four miles ; and the north point of the bay,
which I named St. George's Bay, N. 24° W., six or seven miles distant.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 121
The surf broke with great violence all round the bay ; and although
we were again in whitish water, there was not any opening on this side of
the point : the shores of the northernmost part of the bay, like the coast
of the bay on the south side of Point St. George, rise very abruptly from
the sea, forming numberless gullies and chasms, which were covered with
a dull brownish herbage, and produced little or no wood. North of the
bay, the shores were again bounded with numberless small rocks and
rocky islets, similar to those already mentioned ; but the low land of
Point St. George terminates in a sandy beach, from whence the coast
takes a direction N. 15° W."
From Point St. George, the coast to the northward is composed of
high steep precipices and deep chasms, falling very abruptly into the sea.
The inland mountains are very lofty, and appear to be tolerably well
covered with trees, apparently pines, although there are some spreading
trees of considerable magnitude. Some of the mountains are barren.
Along the coast are a number of rocky islets. In lat. 4£° N. is the
boundary between Oregon and California.
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
THE COAST OF OREGON.
BY a convention with Spain in 1817, the southern boundary of Oregon
was fixed at the latitude of 42° N., and until 1847, the whole territory so
far south as the Spanish frontier, was claimed by both Great Britain and
the United States, and the subjects of both proceeded to colonize it; but
in that year negociations were concluded between the two powers, by
which the mutual boundary was fixed at the 49° of latitude. The whole
territory extends from 42° to 54° 40' N. latitude, and contains about
480,000 square miles, of which, about 7-12ths belong to the United
States. Nearly the whole region is drained by the river Columbia, with
its tributaries, which takes its name from the ship of Captain Gray, of
Boston, who was the first to ascend the stream, in 1792. The name
Oregon, as applied to both the river and the country, has arisen solely
from the statement of the traveller Carver, that, when on the Upper
Mississippi, he heard of a great river in the interior, flowing westward,
and which he called the Oregon or Oregan, or River of the West. The
principal establishments of the whites are the Hudson's Bay Company's
posts and settlements, and the Missionary Stations of the American
Board of Foreign Missions ; the country generally being still in posses-
sion of the native tribes. Population not known.
FORT VANCOUVER, the Company's principal depot for Columbia district,
stands on the northern bank of the river, 100 miles from its mouth, in
the midst of beautiful and fertile prairies. The fort is merely a stockade
inclosing the Company's buildings, and outside are about 50 huts, occupied
by the mechanics and labourers, with their Indian wives and slaves.
There are several other forts of the same kind scattered over the country.
A Company's ship arrives every year in the Columbia, in spring, with
goods for the Indian trade, and returns in the autumn, after having made
a trip to the Sandwich Islands with furs. A Company's ship, brig,
schooner, sloop, and steam-boat, remain on the coast to traffic and bring
in the furs ; and every spring, numerous parties leave Fort Vancouver in
boats loaded with goods for the Indian trade, at the different inland posts.
The whole number of persons connected with the establishment is
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 123
about 800, who are mostly Canadians, half-breeds, and Indians. The
Mission Board has two stations, and employs several missionaries and
teachers.
RIVER TOUTONNIS, OR ROGUE'S RIVER.— This is the first
river met with after passing the boundary line of Oregon and California,
when sailing northward. It has a very narrow entrance, with a low
shingle beach on each side, by which it may be recognised ; but in con-
sequence of the narrowness of the channel, it is scarcely available for
shipping, there being hardly room to turn. The passage of this river is
between high mountainous land ; and in consequence of the deep inclina-
tion of its bed, the stream is very rapid. There are from 10 to 12 feet
water on the bar, which deepens to four or five fathoms within the dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile inside ; the flats then begin . The overfalls
extend several miles. The tide rises about six feet. It is said that
wood and water can be procured in any quantity. This river is named by
Wilkes, the Klamet or Tootootutna River.
At about 18 miles north of the Klamath River, is a small open cove,
named Ewing Harbour, in which safe anchorage may be obtained during
the summer months. It is said that there is no surf in the landing
cove.
CAPE ORFORD, OR BLANCO is at the extremity of a low pro-
.jecting tract of land, and forms a very conspicuous point, which bears
the same appearance, whether approached from the north or the south.
It is covered with wood as low down as the surf will permit it to grow.
The space between the woods and the wash of the sea appears to be
composed of black craggy rocks, which can be seen at the distance of
seven or eight leagues. Off the cape, there is a group of rocky islets,
four in number, surrounded with dangerous sunken rocks, on which the
sea breaks with considerable force. The outermost of these bears from
the cape S. 38° W., distant four miles, and has outside it, at a short
distance, 45 fathoms, black sandy bottom.
From Cape Orford, the coast runs to the northward, and until about a
league from the cape is lined with rocky islets, which are succeeded by an
almost straight sandy beach, with land behind rising gradually to a
moderate height ; but the interior is considerably elevated, and much
diversified both by its eminences and productions, being generally well
wooded, though frequently there are clear spots, which give the country
an appearance of being well cultivated.
CAPE GREGORY, OR ARAGO, about 30 miles to the northward
of Cape Orford, is very conspicuous, especially when viewed from the
northward, being formed by a round hill on high perpendicular cliffs,
some of which are white, and rise to a considerable height above the level
of the sea : above these cliffs the land is pretty well wooded. About a
124 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
league northward of the pitch of the cape, the rocky cliffs composing it
terminate, and a compact white sandy beach commences, which extends
along the coast eight leagues, without forming any visible projecting point
or headland.
Vancouver, after observing the impropriety of the term " bianco " being
applied to Cape Orford, the cape being of a dark colour, goes on to say
" the land seen to the south of Cape Gregory, by Captain Cook, and by
him considered as answering nearly to the situation of Cape Blanco, must
have been some of the inland mountains, which to the south of Cape
Gregory rise to a great height ; whilst the land near the sea shore,
particularly in the neighbourhood of Cape Orford, was much too low
to have been seen at the distance which Captain Cook was at that time
from it ; and it is fair to presume that the excessive bad weather led
Captain Cook and his officers to consider the extremely white sand on
the sea shore and on the hills to be snow. With us it put on the same
appearance, excepting where it was interrupted by the clumps of trees,
and until it was entirely lost in the forest. There could be no doubt of
its being mistaken in winter for snow, but as the general temperature,
since our arrival on the coast, had been at 59° and 60°, the error of such
conclusion was sufficiently apparent."
Between Capes Orford and Gregory, is a small river named Coquille,
which is not available for any thing larger than small boats and
canoes.
Immediately round Cape Gregory, on the north side, is the Kowes
River, which has not yet been closely examined, but it is highly probable,
judging from appearances at the entrance, that it will be found available
and very useful for steamers.
At about 20 miles to the northward of Cape Gregory, is the Umpqua
River, on the bar of which are about 14 feet, deepening inside to 3 fathoms.
Heavy rollers break across the entrance. Lieut. M* Arthur has ex-
pressed an opinion that this river is practicable for steamers, but dan-
gerous to sailing vessels, unless under very favourable circumstances. Com-
mander Wilkes describes the entrance of Umpqua River as being between
two sand spits, the northern of which is a mile and a half long, and on
the southern spit is a small rock. There are 2 fathoms water on the bar,
which lies outside the spits ; between them, 6 and 7, and inside, 1 1
fathoms. The river, for the distance of 10 miles, admits vessels not
drawing more than 12 feet.
Between the Umpqua and Columbia Rivers there are several small
streams ; but which have not sufficient water for large ships. The names
of these streams are Alseya, Nekas, Yaquinna, and Killamook. From
most of these fresh water can be obtained by boats.
CAPE PERPETUA, in lat. 44° 12' N., and the first projecting
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.
point northward of Cape Gregory, is a high rocky bluff, nearly perpen-
dicular to the sea, which occasionally breaks against it with great vio-
lence. Hence the coast runs to the northward to Cape Foulweather, in
lat. 44° 49' N., which has a very singular appearance, appearing with a
high round bluff point that projects abruptly into the sea ; to the north-
ward there is a remarkable table hill, and to the southward there is a
lower round bluff. From Cape Foulweather the coast takes a direction
a little to the eastward of North, and is nearly a straight and compact
shore, considerably elevated, and in general steep to the sea. The face
of the country is much diversified, being in some places covered with
herbage, and in others with barren rocks and sand ; but in no place is
there very much wood.
CAPE LOOKOUT, in lat. 45° 52', is a small projecting point, having
off it four rocks, one of which is perforated. Hence the cost takes a
direction about N. 8° W., and is pleasingly diversified with hills near the
sea-shore ; in it there are some shallow sandy bays, with a few detached
rocks lying about a mile from the land. /The more inland country is
considerably elevated ; the mountains stretch towards the sea, and at a
distance appear to form many projecting points and inlets ; but the sandy
beach along the shore renders it a compact coast, now and then inter-
rupted by perpendicular rocky cliffs, on which the surf violently breaks.
This mountainous inland country extends about 10 leagues to the north-
ward of Cape Lookout, when it suddenly descends to a moderate height.
COLUMBIA RIVER.— The Columbia River and its valley is by far
the most important and interesting part of Oregon, not only on account
of the variety of soil, productions, and climate, but also from its being
the great and only line of communication between the sea coast and the
interior. The river is estimated to be 750 miles long, and is navigable
from its entrance, a distance of about 100 miles, as far as the cascades,
by vessels drawing over 12 feet of water. Although it possesess at all
times a good depth of water, yet it is difficult and dangerous to enter, so
much so that it can be said to possess but few advantages as a port ; it
therefore is not of such value to the district as the length of its course
and the magnitude of its waters would lead us to expect. It also has the
disadvantage of a shifting bar, so that it is impossible for large vessels to
enter without a pilot.
It has been said that the Columbia is navigable for vessels drawing 12
feet of water, as far as the cascades. These are falls extending a dis-
tance of about 2 miles, and the descent of the river in this space is up-
wards of 40 feet, so that it is rendered impassable even for boats, and a
portage of 2^ miles has to be made. The width of the river is here
reduced to 450 yards, which causes the whole body of the water to rush
through with great velocity, and produces high waves and whirlpools.
126 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
At about 40 miles within the entrance of the river, on the north shore,
is one of its tributaries, named the Cowlitz, which is about 35 miles in
length. It is not navigable during the greater part of the year ; but in
the freshes discharges a large quantity of water into the Columbia, and
so extensive are these floods, that it has been known at times to overflow
its high prairie. About its head waters is some of the finest land to
the north of the Columbia, on which a considerable settlement has
already been made by the Hudson's Bay Company, named the Cowlitz
Farm.
At about 65 miles within the entrance of the Columbia, on the south
bank, is the entrance of the Willamette River and Valley. This valley
extends as far south as the Elk range of hills, where the river takes its
rise, the upper portion of which is termed Mackenzie's Fork. Mac-
kenzie's Fork has its source in the Cascade Mountains ; and after flow-
ing 30 miles west joins the main stream. The principal settlements of
the country have been made in this valley, on account of its good soil
and easy cultivation. It is divided into an upper and lower prairie ; the
first is adapted for pasturage and the raising of stock ; the latter arable
and productive land on which all kinds of grain yield abundant crops.
The southern end of the valley rises gradually into undulating hills, des-
titute of trees, except a few oaks, which are found at the banks of the
streams. The soil is a red decomposed basalt. The Willamette River
flows nearly north, in the middle of the river, and has several small
streams which empty into it. Fifteen miles below the valley the river
falls about 25 feet, and at this place is 350 yards wide. These falls are
33 miles from its junction with the Columbia ; and the river is navigable
to the Klackamus, 3 miles farther down. The banks below the falls are
high and basaltic, to within four miles of its mouth, where they become
low, and subject to be overflown. Its width varies, from there being
many islands in it, which are covered with beautiful groves of ash. The
freshets in this river take place in February and March, and by the
sudden rise at times do great damage. At the falls is the principal
settlement in the territory ; it has received the name of Oregon
city. Its location is very contracted, and ill adapted for trade. The
principal advantage of its site is its suitableness for the establish-
ment of mills, and its being one of the best salmon fisheries in the
country.
CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT, on the north side of the entrance to the
river, is high and cliffy, and has several lofty spruce and pine trees on its
summit. Within the cape the land bends inwards, and forms a bay,
named Baker's Bay, in which vessels generally anchor when awaiting an
opportunity for departing from the river. In this bay there are sound-
ings of 20 to 8 feet ; but it is entirely open to the S.E. Baker's Bay
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 127
terminates to the eastward at Chinook Point, which is 5 miles to the
eastward of Cape Disappointment. Commander Wilkes has remarked on
the occasion of his visit, in 1841 : — " I determined to go to Baker's Bay,
where we could obtain water ; for that of the Columbia is not fresh as
low down as this point. We found the tide exceedingly strong, and
having some apprehensions that the boats might lose their way, I
thought it better for us to make for the Chinook shore, and follow it until
we reached the cape. It may seem strange that this precaution should
be taken ; but it is necessary at all times, even in clear weather ; for the
tide is frequently so strong that it cannot be stemmed by oars ; and too
much caution cannot be observed in passing across the bay. As little
frequented as it is, many accidents have occurred to boats and canoes, by
their being swept by the tide into the breakers on the bar, where all
hands have perished. The Indians are very cautious, and it is only at
certain times of the tide that they will attempt to make the passage.
We reached Baker's Bay in two hours, and formed our encampment ;
and here we determined to remain until the weather should become clear,
and allow us to proceed with our duties."
POINT ADAMS, on the south side of the river, is distant from Cape
Disappointment nearly 5 miles. It is low and sandy, and has, at its
extremity, an Indian village, named Clatsop, which merely consists of
a few rough lodges, constructed of boards, or rather hewn planks, of
large size ; the interior resembled a miserably constructed ship's cabin,
with bunks, &c., the only light being admitted from above, near the
ridge and gable end. Around the whole is a palisade, made of thick
planks and joists, about 15 feet in length, set with one end in
the ground, to protect the inhabitants from attack. The Indians
are an idle and dissolute set, spending their time in gambling and
fighting.
The land near the entrance of the river is well marked, and cannot
be easily mistaken. On the summit of the two capes are several lofty
spruce and pine trees, which the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company
have caused to be trimmed of branches nearly to their tops ; these serve
as conspicuous marks.
From each point of the entrance of the river a sand-spit runs off
nearly 4 miles ; that from Point Adams projecting to seaward of the
other, being nearly at right angles to it ; the distance between them is
nearly one mile. These sand-spits have been formed by the deposits of
the sands brought down by the river, or washed by the abrasion of the
sea from their respective capes. The bar lies outside, and on it there is
said to be no particular danger unless the sea is heavy, when breakers
form on it, and a vessel would be subjected to risk in passing. The sea
on both spits is generally heavy, although at times there are little or no
128 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
breakers. On the spits the depth is generally 1 to 3 fathoms, and there
are also some patches awash ; but this of course is dependent on the
changes which are continually taking place. On the bar the depth is
generally 3J to 4J fathoms. It seems that the south end of the north
spit is the point of the greatest danger, as most of the wrecks have oc-
curred there.
Commander Wilkes says of the breakers on the bar : — "Mere description
can give but little idea of the terrors of the bar of the Columbia : all who
have seen it have spoken of the wildness of the ocean, and the incessant roar
of the waters, representing it as one of the most fearful sights that can
possibly meet the eye of the sailor. The difficulty of its channel, the dis-
tance of the leading sailing marks, their uncertainty to one unacquainted
with them, the want of knowledge of the strength and direction of the
currents, with the necessity of approaching close to unseen dangers, the
transition from clear to turbid waters, all cause doubt and mistrust."
Within the entrance of the river, between Cape Disappointment and
Point Adams is an extensive middle ground, which is dangerous on
account of the little water on it. In one part it dries, forming a sandy
islet. The depth of water on, as well as shape of this bank, depend
very much on the freshets from the river. There are also extensive flats
in the middle of the river, before the village of Astoria.
Astoria. From Point Adams to the entrance of Young's River, on
the south side of the Columbia, the distance is about 6 miles. This is
a small stream flowing through meadows. Astoria is two or three miles
to the eastward of Young's River. It is very beautifully situated, and
was at one time the principal place of trade in this district ; but since
the establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement at Fort Van-
couver, it has gradually declined, until that it is now little more than a
collection of a few log-houses and huts. The site of Astoria is ill ad-
apted for commerce, the navigable channel of the river being narrow,
and only able to accommodate a few vessels. The river, although 3J
miles wide here, has its bed occupied by extensive sands, over which
there is but little water ; these militate very much against Astoria ever
becoming again a place of much importance.
Fort Vancouver, the Hudson's Bay Company's principal depot for
Columbia district, stands on the northern bank of the river, 100
miles from its mouth, in the midst of beautiful and fertile prairies.
It was visited in 1841, by Commander Wilkes, who thus writes: —
" The situation of Vancouver is favourable for agricultural purposes,
and it may be said to be the head of navigation for sea-going vessels.
A vessel of 14 feet draft of water, may reach it in the lowest state of
the river. The Columbia at this point makes a considerable angle,
and is divided by two islands, which extend upwards about 3 miles,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 129
to where the upper branch of the Willamette joins it. The shores of
these islands are covered with trees, consisting of ash, poplars, pines,
and oaks, while the centre is generally prairie, and lower than the banks :
they are principally composed of sand. During the rise of the river, in
May and June, the islands are covered with water which filters through
the banks that are not overflowed. This influx renders them unfit for
grain crops, as the coldness of the water invariably destroys every culti-
vated plant it touches.
The Company's Establishment at Vancouver is upon an extensive
scale, and is worthy of the vast interest of which it is the centre. The
residents mess at several tables ; one for the chief factor and his clerks ;
one for their wives (it being against the regulations of the Company for
their officers and wives to take their meals together) ; another for the
missionaries ; and another for the sick, and the Catholic missionaries. All
is arranged in the best order, and I should think with great economy.
Everything may be had within the fort : they have an excellent apothe-
cary's shop, a bakery, blacksmiths' and coopers' shops, trade-offices for
buying, others for selling, others again, for keeping accounts and trans-
acting business ; shops for retail, where English manufactured articles
may be purchased at as low a price, if not cheaper, than in the United
States, consisting of cotton and woollen goods, ready-made clothing,
ship-chandlery, earthen and iron ware, and fancy articles ; in short
everything, and of every kind and description, including all sorts of
groceries.
Vancouver is the head-quarters of the North-west or Columbian de-
partment, which also includes New Caledonia ; all the returns of furs are
received here, and hither all accounts are transmitted for settlement.
These operations occasion a large mass of business to be transacted at
this establishment.
Vancouver is a large manufacturing, agricultural, and commercial
depot, and there are few if any idlers, except the sick. Everybody seems
to be in a hurry, whilst there appears to be no obvious reason for it.
Canadian French is generally spoken to the servants : even those who
come out from England after a while adopt it, and it is not a little amus-
ing to hear the words they use, and the manner in which they pronounce
them.
The routine of a day at Vancouver is, perhaps, the same throughout
the year. At early dawn the bell is rung for the working parties, who
soon after go to work : the sound of the hammers, click of the anvils, the
rumbling of the carts, with tinkling of bells, render it difficult to
sleep after this hour. The bell rings again at eight, for breakfast ; at
nine they resume their work, which continues till one ; then an hour is
allowed for dinner, after which they work till six, when the labours of
K
130 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the day close. At five o'clock on Saturday afternoon the work is stopped,
when the servants receive their weekly rations.
The mode in which their trade is carried on will give some idea of
the system pursued by the Company. All the imported goods are
divided into three classes, viz. : — articles of gratuity, those of trade, and
those intended to pay for small services, labour, and provisions. The
first consists of knives and tobacco ; the second, of blankets, guns, cloth,
powder, and shot ; the third, of shirts, handkerchiefs, ribands, beads, &c.
These articles are bartered at seemingly great profits, and many persons
imagine that large gain must be the result from the Indian trade ; but
this is seldom the case. The Indians and settlers understand well the
worth of each article, and are not> inclined to give for it more than its
real value, besides getting a present or " potlatch " to boot. The Com-
pany are obliged to make advances to all their trappers, if they wish to
be sure of their services ; and from such a reckless set there is little
certainty of getting returns, even if the trapper has it in his power. In
fact, he will not return with his season's acquisitions, unless he is con-
strained to pursue the same course of life for another year, when he
requires a new advance. In order to avoid losses by the departure of their
men, the parties, some thirty or forty in number, are placed under an
officer, who has charge of the whole. These are allowed to take their
wives and even families with them, and places where they are to trap
during the season, on some favourable ground, are assigned to them.
These parties leave Vancouver in October, and return by May or June.
They usually trap on shares, and the portion they are to receive is
defined by an agreement ; the conditions of which depend very much
upon their skill.
I witnessed the Columbia at its greatest and least heights, and no idea
can be formed of it, unless seen at both these epochs. The flood is a very
grand sight from the banks of the river at Vancouver, as it passes swiftly
by, bearing along the gigantic forest trees, whose immense trunks appear
as mere chips. They frequently lodge for a time, in which case others
are speedily caught by them, which, . obstructing the flow of the water,
form rapids, until by a sudden rush the whole is borne off to the ocean,
and in time lodged by the currents on some remote and savage island, to
supply the natives with canoes. I also witnessed the undermining of
large trees on the banks, and occasional strips of soil : thus does
the river yearly make inroads on its banks, and changes in its
channels.
From the circumstance of this annual inundation of the river prairies,
they will always be unfit for husbandry, yet they are admirably adapted
for grazing, except during the periods of high water. There is no pre-
caution that can prevent the inroad of the water. At Vancouver, they
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 131
were at the expense of throwing up a long embankment of earth, but
without the desired effect. It has been found that the crop of grain
suffers in proportion to the quantity of the stalk immersed : unless the
wheat is completely covered, a partial harvest may be expected.
The temperature of the waters of the Columbia, during the
months of May and June, was 4$°, while in September it had increased
to 68°.
The waters of the Columbia have no fertilizing qualities, which is
remarkable when the extent of its course is considered : on the contrary,
it is said, from experience, to deteriorate and exhaust the soil. It is,
when taken up, quite clear, although it has a turbid look as it flows by.
Quantities of fine sand, are, however, borne along, and being deposited
in the eddies, rapidly form banks, which alter the channel in places to a
great degree."
DIRECTIONS. The following are the instructions given by Comman-
der Wilkes for running into the river; but they must not be followed,
as, since the survey by the Exploring Expedition in 1841, great changes
have taken place, both in the depth of the water on the bar, and in the
shape of the banks at the entrance of the river. A new survey has since
been made (in 1850), by which it appears that a South Channel has
opened; and directions in accordance with that survey, by Lieut.
McArthur, are appended. "We add the instructions of Commander
Wilkes, because they supply useful information on the tides and
winds : —
" The principal dangers in the entrance of the Columbia are the cross
tides, their velocity, and the influence of an under-current, together
with the heavy swell. These become greater from the distance of the
leading marks for the channel, and their indistinctness when the weather
will permit entrance. It is necessary to use them, in consequence of the
compass bearings being of little or no use.*
There is little doubt that the spits are undergoing constant change,
and are both increasing. This is corroborated by those who have had
the most experience. In the memory of many, Cape Disappointment
has been worn away some hundred feet by the sea and the strong cur-
rents that run by it. The middle sands, which lie within the two spits,
* Commander Wilkes, after alluding to the loss of his consort, the Peacock, on the
bar of the Columbia, says : — " The cross-tides change every half hour, and are at *
times so rapid, that it is impossible to steer a ship by her compass, or maintain her \f
position ; and no sailing directions can possibly embrace the various effects produced
upon them by a vessel. A singular fact in illustration of this remark is, that the
safest time to cross the bar is when both the tide and wind are adverse ; and this is
the only port, within my knowledge, where this is the case.
During the summer, haze and fog occur almost every day, in the afternoon."
K 2
132 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
and occupy a great extent of the bay, are subject to still greater changes.
In the course of two months, a large portion of what was dry sand was
washed away. The sea usually breaks on the western edge of these
sands. Two vessels have been wrecked here within the last year ; the
barque Vancouver, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's vessels, and the
whale ship Maine, both totally lost.
After passing the spits, the old channel leads to Baker's Bay, the
usual anchorage for vessels awaiting an opportunity for departure. This
bay is by no means well sheltered during the stormy months, being
exposed to the south-east. Good water and wood can be procured.
The New, or Clatsop Channel leads directly to Point Adams. Changes
in both the channels are said to have taken place since the surveys made
by the Exploring Expedition of the U.S. The alteration in the former
is caused by the accumulation of sand about the wreck of the Peacock ;
that in the latter by the greater deposit of sands, from the failure of the
common spring freshets. I am led to believe that neither is of the
extent reported, and I feel satisfied that the Clatsop Channel will be kept
open by the action of the current of the river, and ought to improve in
depth. Before any degree of reliance can be placed on these reports, an
accurate survey of the river ought to be made, which will serve to show
the changes that have occurred since that made by the Exploring Expe-
dition ; and a comparison of the two surveys will point out the causes that
may be at work to effect it, and the probable remedies that may be used
to prevent the change, or retard its progress.
It is safest to enter the river on the ebb-tide, with the usual north-
west wind, which sets in about 10 or 11 o'clock, A.M., during the summer
months. The entrance should never be attempted with a flood-tide and
north-west wind, unless the Clatsop Channel is followed, and the sea is
smooth.
After making Cape Disappointment, which is easily distinguishable
the dark hummocks and tall pines, trimmed up, with the exception oi
their tops, you may lead in for it on a north-east bearing, if to the south-
ward ; if to the northward, you may run in until you have that bearing
on. A hummock, or saddle-hill, to the northward, on with the outer pai
of the cape-land, will give you notice that you are on the bar, in foi
and a half or five fathoms water : in ordinary weather, the outer line oi
the north spit is readily perceived by the rollers breaking ; the inner line
is always perceptible. When Young's Point is open with dead trees 01
Point Adams, you will be to the northward of the end of the north spit,
and may run down along it, until those two points are on range ; then
haul in for Point Ellice, or the green patch on Chinook hill, if intending
to take the channel by the cape. When Leading-in Cliff is well open
with the inner point of the cape, haul up for the latter, and steer in ; you
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 133
will then have doubled close round the north breaker, in seven fathoms
water ; and it is better to keep the north spit aboard if the wind is not
so scant as to oblige you to beat up for Cape Disappointment: on opening
Grreen Point, you must go about ; it is not safer to go nearer the middle
sand. On ordinary occasions, there will be scarcely ever a necessity to
tack ; the ebb-tide on your lee bow will keep you sufficiently to wind-
ward.
The cape will be required to be passed close aboard, in order to avoid
the sand-spit making off from the middle sands towards the cape : the
two outer bluffs of the cape, in range, will strike it. After you have
passed this range, you may steer into Baker's Bay, and, having passed an
opening in the wood on the cape, you may anchor in from seven to ten
fathoms. In passing the cape, care must be taken not to be becalmed by
it ; if this should happen, the only resource is to down anchor at once,
and wait a favourable tide. The current will be found very strong. It
sometimes runs from five to six knots an hour — a perfect mill-race — and
no boat can make way against it when at its strength.
If desirous to proceed up to Astoria, and one of the native pilots is not
to be had, the only caution necessary, in proceeding up, is to keep the
small islet in the cove of the cape open, until you have the dead trees
nearly S.S.E. (mag.), and then steer over them, as it will be probably
young flood. It is necessary to keep the starboard or sand island side of
the channel, and if near high water, this island, in running up, must be
kept open on the starboard bow ; otherwise the approach to it would be
too near for safety. On reaching the Clatsop Channel, steer up for
Young's Point, keeping in five or six fathoms water. The sand shoals
on either side are very bold. When abreast of Astoria, moor with an
ebb and flood anchor, with open hawse to the northward and west-
ward.
If the intention be to take the Clatsop Channel, the same directions
are to be observed in passing the north spit. When the Leading- in cliff
is open, instead of hauling up for the cape, steer direct for the Clatsop
village, on Point Adams, which will take you into fair channel-way ;
the breakers on each side will be visible : keep in the middle, and
steer up for Young's Point, following the directions as before given.
In coming out, the state of the bar may be distinctly seen from the
top of the cape, but due allowance must be made for the distance. The
surf beating on the cape is a good guide ; if there is much of it, the
swell will be very heavy and sharp between the north and south spits, if
it does not actually break : the best time is with a north-west wind,
and about half ebb, you will then have tide, enough to carry you to
sea.
I look upon it as always dangerous to drop anchor in the channel
134 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
between the cape and the end of the north spit ; if it is done, it should
only be in case of absolute necessity, and not a moment is to be lost
when possible to proceed out or in. If the ship gets off with only the
loss of an anchor, she may consider herself fortunate. The sea breeze
or north-west and westerly winds blow at times very fresh ; a sure
indication of them is a thick hazy bank in the west, to seaward.
In entering the river, the following cautions should be attended to : —
1. The entrance should never be attempted when the passage between
the north and south spits is not well denned by breakers ; it is equally
dangerous, whether it be concealed by the sea's breaking all the way
across, or so smooth as not to show any break.
£. The wind generally fails, or falls light, in the passage between the
north and south spits, if it blows but a moderate breeze ; and leaves a
vessel at the mercy of a strong tide and heavy swell.
3. The best time to enter and depart, is after ebb, and before quarter
flood ; the tide then runs direct through the channels, and is confined
to them. With the prevailing westerly winds, for those intending to
take the north channel, the best time to enter is after half-ebb, though
the wind may be scant ; yet the ebb-tide, acting on the lee bow, will
enable the vessel to keep to windward, and avoid the spits on the middle
sands."
The recent examination of the entrance of the Columbia, in June,
1 850, shows that great alterations have taken place since the survey of
Commander Wilkes. A new South Channel has been opened, through
which it appears that vessels drawing 17 feet can be taken over the bar,
at a quarter flood, or three quarters ebb, without the least risk of
touching, and vessels drawing 20 feet can pass at high water. This is
after due allowance has been made for the "drop" which a vessel makes
when in the swell of the bar, which is, however, much less in the South
than in the old North Channel, when the wind is in the usual north-
western quarter. But how long the channel may continue in this state
is uncertain, the sands being liable to alter after heavy gales.
In the winter or spring seasons, when the wind is in the south or south-
west quarter, there is a lively breaker on the south bar, at which time it
will be smoothest on the north bar, and this southerly wind being fair for
the North Channel, there is no occasion to take the south bar in southerly
winds, going in ; yet, with a moderate draught in a sailing vessel, the
South Channel is ever safest in coming out, although the wind may be
" dead in" to the bar ; the bar being so short and quickly passed that it is
not necessary to tack in shoal water.*
* Lieutenant Bartlett, U.S.- Navy, says : — " My experience at the mouth of the
Columbia convinces me that the South Channel is the practicable commercial channel
of the river, for certainty and safety, with the additional advantage of accomplishing
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 135
Within the entrance of the river, the changes have been equally as
great as outside. Sand Island is nearly a mile to the westward of its
position in 1841 ; and the North Channel seems to be gradually filling
up, whilst the new South Channel is becoming both larger and
deeper. This change will go on until some violent storm throws up the
sand again, and, upon subsiding, leaves the waters of the river to find a
new channel. After crossing the bar, there is a good, unobstructed
channel for ships, as far up as Astoria, beyond which, Tongue Point Bar
presents a serious obstacle to vessels drawing 16 or even 15 feet. The
channel over this bar is very crooked and shallow, so that vessels seldom
pass it without delay. Once beyond Tongue Point Bar, vessels can easily
go up the river as far as Fort Vancouver, and as far as Portland, on the
Willamette River.
The harbour of Astoria is perfectly safe and capacious, and has good
holding ground. Abundance of wood and water can easily be pro-
cured.
On Sand Island, a beacon was constructed in June, 1850, having on it
a white flag, 80 feet above the island, and 85 feet above- high water mark.
Around the base of the flagstaff is a block-house, 35 feet high, and 15 feet
square, which can be plainly seen 12 miles off in clear weather. These
are excellent objects when making the river.
Pilots have been appointed for the river, and it is probable that by this
time the channel is buoyed. Should a pilot not be obtained, you may
run into the river by the following directions, which were written by
Lieut. Me Arthur, U.S. Navy, in November, 1850: —
" It is best at all times and under all circumstances to have a pilot ;
but, should it be necessary to enter the river without one, the directions
are as follows : —
NORTH CHANNEL. — Bring Sand Island in range with Point Ellice,
and stand in towards Sand Island, passing the south end of the north
breaker ; when Cape Disappointment and Leading-in Cliff are in range,
haul up towards the cape, keeping Leading-in Cliff in range, until nearly
abreast the cape. "Give the cape a small berth, and continue on towards
Baker's Bay until the second island in the bay can be seen ; then keep
off, and with the second island and cape in range astern it will pass
clear of the north part of the Middle Sands. As soon as the soundings
shoal on this course, keep off towards Sand Island, and passing close by
the east end of the island, get the beacon on the island in range with a
the passage to or from the river without waiting for a particular wind. Ships fre-r
quently pass the bar inward in 15 minutes after receiving their pilot, and outward
in 30 minutes after getting their anchors. A disabled ship that can be sailed so as
to have good steerage way, can pass over the south bar in safety, when it would be
impossible to get her in by the North Channel."
136 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
tree on Cape Disappointment, (which is trimmed up like an umbrella),
and with that range astern, stand on up the bay, until the custom-house
is on with Young's Point, when haul to the east, and keep the last range
on till nearly up with Young's Point. Pass along the shore, running
by the lead until up to Astoria,
SOUTH CHANNEL. — To enter the South Channel, bring the beacon on
Sand Island to bear N. 40° E., (true), and Point Adams on the peak,
which can be seen east of Point Ellice, and called " Jim Crow," (upon
which there is a notable tree) nearly in range, the vessel will be then on
the bar in the South Channel, in the best water. Steer for the beacon,
taking care not to sag to the eastward; rather keep close to the breakers
on the Sand Island shore. Pass close to Sand Island, and fall into the
range of the beacon with the trimmed- tree on Cape Disappointment, and
proceed as already directed.
The best time for entering is on the first or last of the ebb tide. The
last of the ebb tide is preferable in either channel."
SHOALWATER BAY, &c.— The coast of Oregon between the
Columbia River and Fuca Strait is rocky, much broken, and affords no
harbours, except for very small vessels. It must, therefore, be considered
as extremely dangerous, and particularly on account of its outlying rocks.
The soundings however, will serve as a sure indication by which danger
may be avoided, and safety can always be insured by not approaching
the land into less than 70 fathoms. The bottom is regular, and increases
almost gradually, until the depth of 90 fathoms is reached ; but a short
distance beyond that depth, and at about 15 miles from the land, the
bank suddenly falls off, and no bottom is obtained with a line 200 or 250
fathoms long.
Shoalwater Bay, on the north side of Cape Disappointment, is merely
a deep indentation in the coast, which, from its exposure to the N.W.,
can be of little use for the protection of vessels. It is surrounded by a
low sand beach.
In about lat. 46° 40' is Cape Shoalwater, and the shore, for about 15
miles to the southward of this, appears to be fringed with a dangerous
reef. When sailing along this coast in April, 1792, Vancouver writes : —
" The country now before us presented a most luxuriant landscape, and
was probably not a little heightened in beauty by the weather that pre-
vailed. The more interior parts were somewhat elevated, and agreeably
diversified with hills, from which it gradually descended to the shore,
and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the appearance of a
continued forest, extending as far north as the eye could reach, which made
me very solicitous to find a port in the vicinity of a country presenting
so delightful a prospect of fertility ; our attention was therefore earnestly
directed to this object, but the sandy beach, bounded by breakers
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 137
extending three or four miles into the sea, seemed to be completely
inaccessible, until about four in the afternoon, when the appearance of a
tolerably good bay presented itself. For this we steered, in the hope of
finding a division in the reef, through which, should admittance be
gained, there was great reason to expect a well sheltered anchorage ;
but on approaching within two or three miles of the breakers, we found
them produced by a compact reef, extending from a low projecting point
of land along the shores to the southward, until they joined the beach to
the north of Cape Disappointment. This projecting point is somewhat
more elevated than the rest of the coast. Not a little disappointed, we
resumed our route along the shores of this pleasant country. The pro-
jecting point, at six, bore by compass Nl 10° E. ; the centre of the bay,
and the nearest part of the reef *in a line, N. 69° E. ; distant from the
former about seven, and from the latter, about three miles. Immediately
within the point, the interior country is more elevated than to the north
or south of it ; rising in gradual ascent to land of a moderate height. In
respect of latitude, this point answered nearly to Mr. Mears's Cape
Shoal water ; but, from his description of the adjacent country, it should
rather appear to be his Low Point ; and the bay we endeavoured to enter
to the south of it, Shoalwater Bay ; as in it there appeared two openings,
the one taking a northerly, and the other an eastwardly direction. Mr.
Mears likewise states : — " That, with their glasses, they traced the line
of the coast to the south of Cape Shoalwater, which presented no opening
that promised like a harbour;" those to the south of both these points
flattered our expectations, until the breakers, extending across each of
them, gave us reason to consider them inaccessible, and unworthy any
loss of time whilst accompanied by so favourable a breeze. At sunset
we again shortened sail, and as usual, hauled our wind to preserve our
station until the morning. Our soundings were from 24 to 43 fathoms,
dark brown sandy bottom. It was calm for a few hours during the
evening and night, with a heavy fall of rain. The next morning, at four
o'clock, with a light breeze at E.S.E., we again steered in for the
land, and found that we had been materially affected by a northern
current."
GRAY'S HARBOUR.— This harbour is 40 miles to the northward of
the Columbia, and is situated at the entrance of the Chickeeles River.
The points to the north and south are composed of low sand hills, and
from both of these project sand-spits somewhat similar to those of the
Columbia River. On the northern side is Eld's Island, with several
hillocks, which appear as one from seaward. The channel is narrow,
though deep, and is two miles in length. This harbour is easy to enter,
the wind being usually fair, and it is only necessary to keep clear of the
breakers on either side : but the same cause makes it very difficult to
138 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
depart from. The bay is capacious, but the extensive mud and sand
banks confine the anchorages and channels to very small space. The
land about it is low, with the exception of Brackenridge Bluff on the
north, and Steam's on the south. These are both covered with pines,
the latter bearing S. 85° E., and on with the south side of Eld's Island,
will lead into and through the channel.
Mr. "Whidbey, in his report on this harbour, in 1792, stated that he
thought it probable that the bar was a shifting one, there being a very
apparent difference in the channel on their arrival and at their departure,
when it appeared to have become much wider but less deep. A dry
sand bank on the north side of the channel, near which they anchored
the first evening, was then entirely washed away by the violence of the
sea, which incessantly broke upon the shoals and bar. The surrounding
shores of the harbour are low, and apparently swampy, with salt
marshes ; the soil is a thin mixture of red and white sand over a bed
of stones and pebbles. At a short distance from the water side, the
country is covered with wood, principally pines of a stunted growth.
Wood and water are at too great a distance to be easily procured, par-
ticularly the latter, which is found in small springs only, running through
the sands near Point Hanson, the south side of the channel, at the
distance of a mile from the landing place, over a very heavy sand.
This harbour was surveyed in 1841, by Commander Wilkes, who
says : — " The tract of land bordering on the Chickeeles, below the
mouth of the Sachap, and around Gray's Harbour, is of a poor descrip-
tion for cultivation. The spruce forest extends down to the water's
edge, except in a few places around the harbour, where there are patches
of salt marsh, which produce coarse grasses and cat's tail (typha). The
salt creeks into which the tides flow are generally very tortuous ; and
the meadows are occasionally overflowed at spring-tides. The only
piece of land that appeared suitable for cultivation was immediately
within the South Head, but this is of small extent. The coast, as far
south as Cape Shoalwater, is no more than a smooth sandy beach, which
rises in a gentle acclivity to a line of low sand hills.
Gray's Harbour seems to offer but few facilities for commercial purposes.
The entrance is narrow, the width being from one-half to two-thirds of a
mile, with dangerous breakers on both sides. The depth of water is
from five to seven fathoms. The space, after entering, is extensive, but
the greater part of it is filled up with mud-flats, which are bare at low
water, and confine the harbour suitable for the anchorage of vessels to
very small limits. The River Chickeeles, before entering the harbour,
increases in width to several hundred feet, and is navigable for vessels
drawing 12 feet of water, eight miles above its mouth. The harbour is
only suitable for vessels of from 100 to 200 tons ; and there are places
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 139
where such vessels may find security between the mud-shoals, some
distance within the capes.
The tides here are irregular, and influenced by the winds and
weather. The time of high water at full and change was found to be
llh. 30m.
Fogs prevail very frequently during the summer season. Our party
remained at this place for 23 days, three-fourths of which time it blew
a strong gale from either the south-west or north-west, accompanied
with a dense fog that rendered it impossible to see further than half
a mile.
The Indians in this part of the country are not numerous, and
although some little difficulty was experienced with them on several
occasions, yet upon the whole, they were found to be friendly. They
live principally upon salmon, which, during the season, is taken in large
quantities.
The coast between Gray's Harbour and Cape Shoalwater is bordered
by sand-hills, behind which, from the Indians' account, there are lakes
and streams of fresh water, in which plenty of beaver are found."
CAPE GRENVILLE.— At about 24> miles to the northward of
Gray's Harbour, is a projection of the coast, named Cape Grenville,
off which are three small rocky islets ; one of them being perforated like
that off Cape Lookout.
From Cape Grenville, the coast begins to rise regularly in height, and
the inland country, behind the low land bordering on the sea shore,
acquires a considerable degree of elevation. The shores, in passing,
will be observed to differ in some respects from those to the southward.
They are composed of low cliffs rising perpendicularly from a beach of
sand or small stones, with many detached rocks of various remarkable
forms lying at the distance of about a mile off. The soundings are
regular of from 16 to 19 fathoms, soft sandy bottom.
In lat. 47° #7' is an island, named Destruction Island, situated at a
short distance from the land, which is by far the largest island on this
coast. It is about a league in circuit, low, and nearly flat 011 the
top, and presents a very barren aspect, as there are only one or
two dwarf trees at each end. From its northern end some breakers
extend a short distance.
Along this part of the coast there appears to be a current setting to
the northward, at an uniform rate of nearly half a league per hour, as
Vancouver remarks, that after passing Cape Orford he was carried further
to the northward by 10 or 12 miles per day than he expected. He also
observes, that in the vicinity of Destruction Island, the current or tide set
him rapidly in-shore, so that he was obliged to anchor in a depth of 21
fathoms, on a bottom of soft sand and mud. This in-shore set of the
140 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
current was also experienced by Commander Wilkes, when he visited this
part, in 1841.
The coast from Destruction Island continues to increase in height as
you proceed to the northward. Off it there are many rocky islets and
sunken rocks, extending in some places a league from the shore. Soon
after passing the outermost of these rocks you will plainly distinguish
Cape Classet, the south point of the entrance of Fuca Strait.
At about 18 miles to the southward of Cape Classet is Cape Flattery,
off which are some rocks, named the Flattery Rocks, lying at a distance
of four or five miles from the land. They are from 50 to 100 feet high,
black, and pillar shaped.
Vancouver remarks, that soon after passing Destruction Island, " the
most remarkable mountain on the coast now presented itself. Its summit,
covered with eternal snow, was divided into a very elegant double fork,
and rose conspicuously from a base of lofty mountains clothed in the
same manner, which descended gradually to hills of a moderate height,
and terminated in low cliffs falling perpendicularly on a sandy beach ; off
which were scattered many rocks and rocky islets of various forms and
sizes. This was generally considered, though it was not confirmed by its
latitude, to be the Mount Olympus of Mr. Mears ; it being the only
conspicuous mountain we had observed on the part of the coast we had
visited."
CAPE CLASSET.— Cape Classet is a bold, projecting, and con-
spicuous promontory, thickly wooded. It is of moderate height, and in
an easterly direction bears some resemblance to an island. At a short
distance from the foot of the cape is a pinnacle-rock, of considerable
height, named De Fuca's Pillar, which stands on the beach. Most of the
rocks bordering this coast have this columnar shape ; but this is said to
be so conspicuous that it is singular that it escaped Vancouver's observa-
tion. His words are : — " We did not observe the Pinnacle Rock, as
represented by Mr. Mears and Mr. Dalrymple, in order to identify these
straits as those of De Fuca, or any other rock more conspicuous than
thousands along the coast, varying in form and size ; some conical, others
with flat sides, flat tops, and almost every other shape that can be figured
by the imagination."
Immediately off Cape Classet is a group of rocky islets, named Tatooche
Islets, the largest of which is of an oblong shape, lying nearly in a N. W.
and S.E. direction, about half a league in circuit, with a verdant and
fertile appearance, but without trees ; near this are some small white
barren rocks, some sunken ones, and the islets generally present curious
and romantic shapes. Vancouver remarks, that " on the east side of the
larger island is a cove which nearly divides the island into two parts ; the
upper part of the cliff in the centre of the cove had the appearance of
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 141
having been separated by art for the protection or convenience of the
village there situated ; and has a communication from cliff to cliff above
the houses of the village by a bridge or causeway, over which the inha-
bitants of the village were seen passing and re-passing. On the beach
were seen several canoes, and some of them would most probably have
visited us, had we thought proper to shorten sail. This promontory
(Cape Classet), though not generally elevated, rises very abruptly from
the sea in steep barren cliffs; above these it seems well wooded."
It has been proposed to erect a lighthouse on the largest of the Ta-
tooche Islands, which, to vessels bound from seaward, would be of great
service, as it would enable them to enter the strait at all times, while
at present, ships are frequently compelled to remain at sea till daylight.
When once inside the strait, vessels are comparatively secure.
At about a mile to the N.N.W. of the Tatooche Islands is a dangerous
rock, named the Duncan Rock, separated from the islands by a clear and
navigable channel, in which are 30 to 40 fathoms water. It is just above
the surface of the water (8 to 10 feet) at low spring tides, and over it the
sea breaks with considerable violence. At three-quarters flood it is
generally wholly covered. It was examined in 1847 by Capt. Kellet, and
placed by him in lat. 48° 24' 12" N., and long. 124° 45' 45" W.
At one quarter of a mile N.N.W. from the Duncan Rock, is a danger-
ous patch of three fathoms, over which the sea breaks with great strength.
Close to it all round is deep water, of 60 to 100 fathoms.*
It may be here remarked that Fuca Strait, as well as the coasts of
Oregon and California, as far south as San Francisco, are subject to dense
fogs during the months from October to April.
* Mr. G. J. Gibbon, R.N., when alluding to the supposed existence of this 3-fathom
patch, says: — "From the whirling and broken water extending from the Duncan
Rock, in a N.W. direction, fully half a mile, I am led to suspect the existence of a
dangerous reef of rocks, and as the tide here trends to the southward of West, and
runs at the rate of 3 to 5 miles an hour, influenced by the state of the weather, the
force and direction of the wind, I should recommend all strangers bound into or
out of the strait, to keep to the northward of the stream of it, until at least 4 or 5
miles east or west of its meridian; nor do I consider it advisable ever to pass between
it (the Duncan Rock) and Classet Islands (Tatooche Islands) unless bound into or
out of Neeah Bay, and then only with a good commanding breeze."
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
FUCA STRAIT AND PUGET SOUND.
THE Strait of Juan De Fuca, or, as it is now more generally termed,
Fuca Strait, is the channel separating the south coast of Vancouver
Island from Oregon. It is extensive, being 95 miles in length, with an
average width of 1 1 miles ; and may be safely navigated throughout, there
being no dangers, except the Duncan Rock and o-fathom patch, already
mentioned, as situated near Cape Classet. The shores of the strait are
bold; so bold, that in some places no bottom can b'e obtained, even with-
in a boat's-length of the shore, with 60 fathoms of line. Anchorage is to
be obtained in but few places ; yet the north shore, in the eastern part of
the strait, contains a few good harbours, which will be described in their
proper place. The winds blow for the greater part of the year from
the westward, and at times strongly.
Puget Sound, Hood's Canal, Admiralty Inlet, and the Archipelago of
Haro, are at the eastern extremity of Fuca Strait, and cover an area of
about 2000 miles. The whole is unsurpassed by any estuary in the
world ; and throughout, there are many fine harbours and anchorages en-'
tirely free from dangers. The country by which these waters are sur-
rounded is remarkably salubrious, and offers every advantage for the
accommodation of a vast commercial and military marine, with conveni-
encies for docks, and a great many sites for towns and cities. It is well
adapted for agriculture, and capable of providing everything required.
Water is in great abundance.
In the following description of Fuca Strait, we have availed ourselves
of the remarks of Commander James Wood, R.N., contained in the
Nautical Magazine for 1851, and of the observations of Commander
Wilkes, U.S. Navy.
On the southern shore of Fuca Strait, there are generally soundings
and anchorage sufficient to enable vessels to wait a tide all the way
Dungeness ; also several bays which may be used for the same purpose,
when beating either up or down. These are Neeah Bay close to Cape
Classet, Callam Bay, Freshwater Bay, Port Angelos, and Dungeness Bay.
From Dungeness Point to Wilson Point the coast line is more irregular,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 143
and indented by two harbours, one of which has a very narrow entrance,
but a considerable area of deep water inside ; the other is Vancouver's
Port Discovery, an extensive and secure harbour, having off its entrance
a small island, named Protection Island. In most of these bays and har-
bours water of good quality may be obtained in sufficient quantities ;
indeed, throughout the strait this important article is easily procured.
Between Wilson Point and Partridge Point, on the opposite side, is
the entrance to Admiralty Inlet, the channel leading to Puget Sound.
The northern shore of Fuca Strait, Vancouver's Island, is rocky, and
composed of conglomerate and a reddish granite. On this side of the
strait there is less shelter, the coast line being more rocky, less indented
by bays, with the deep water in general running closer up to it, than on the
southern side. The prevailing winds, also are from the southward of West,
making it a lee shore; and the trend of the coast from Cape Classet being
nearly south, leaves it open to the long and heavy south-west swell of the
Pacific. This is experienced as far up as Sooke Bay, where the opposite
shore affords protection, and from whence the coast begins to be more
broken by bays and harbours.
On both sides of the strait the topographical features are nearly similar.
The hills mostly rising from low sandstone cliffs at the water's edge, broken
by numerous valleys, the sides of which are covered with dense forests of
fir, oak, cedars, &c. On the southern side, they are terminated by the
snowy peaks of the Mount Olympus range, where the hardy pines may
still be seen forcing their way. Those on the northern side, though
quite as precipitous, are not so high, showing no trace of snow in the
summer months. After passing the Race Rocks, or Islets, where the
strait opens into a great basin, the eastern horizon in clear weather is
bounded by a snowy range of fantastic peaks, far above which, towers the
immense white cone of Mount Baker.
Vancouver visited Fuca Strait in April 1792, and observes: — "The
shores on each side of the strait are of a moderate height ; and the delight-
ful serenity of the weather permitted our seeing this inlet to great ad-
vantage. The shores on the south side are composed of low sandy cliffs,
falling perpendicularly on beaches of sand or stones. From the top of
these cliffy eminences, the land appeared to take a further gentle mode-
rate ascent, and was entirely covered with trees, chiefly of the pine tribe,
until the forest reached a range of high craggy mountains, which seemed
to rise from the woodland country in a very abrupt manner, with a few
scattered trees on their sterile sides, and their summits covered with snow.
The northern shore did not appear quite so high ; it rose more gradually
from the sea side to the tops of the mountains, which had the appearance
of a compact range, infinitely more uniform, and much less covered with
snow than those on the southern side."
144 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
It may be here remarked that all the rocky shoals and dangers in these
latitudes are well marked by kelp ; indeed the kelp line, to a stranger,
is in every instance the danger line, and should be avoided, for though it
will sometimes show in a depth of even 40 fathoms, it is always indica-
tive of the presence of rocks, and should not be ventured into unless well
known.
CAPE CLASSET has already been mentioned. It is formed by a
conical hill having several peaks covered with a forest of pines, &c. The
sea face is very much broken into dark, rugged cliffs, probably of slate,
with numerous high off-lying rocks, the principal of which are Tatooche
Islets. It is said that when viewed on an E. by S. bearing, distant 12 miles,
the cape appears like an island, high in the centre, with a gradual round-
ing slope from N.W. to S.E. Between the Tatooche Islets and the shore,
there is a passage from rock to rock of two-fifths of a mile wide ; but as
it is so narrow, and has some sunken rocks in it, with a heavy swell at
most times rolling through, it is needless to say it is unavailable. On
the larger of the islets are some lodges belonging to the Indians of the
Callam tribe.
From Cape Classet, the extreme point of which is fringed with low
rocks, covered with kelp, the coast trends due East, three and a quarter
miles, to Koikla Point, the western extreme of Neeah Bay. It con-
tinues to be faced by the bank of kelp-covered rocks, through which, in
one part, there is a passage into a small bay, named Coe de Cabbet,
where there is a village of the Classet Indians.
NEEAH B AY.— Frorfi Koikla Point, the land takes a sudden bend to
the south-eastward, and, with Wyadda Island, forms Neeah Bay. From
Koikla Point to Mee-na Point is S. 64° E., two miles. Wyadda Island,
which lies N. 69° W., a quarter of a mile from the latter, contracts this
width very much, but forms the principal shelter of the bay. It is a
narrow island of slate rock, about a cable's-length across, and half a mile
long, in the direction N. 30° W. and S. 30° E. From Koikla Point to
its north-west extreme is S. 86° E., 1-4'; off this point a ledge of rocks
extends in the same direction as the island, a cable's length from the cliff.
The south-west, or inner face of the island, is fenced by a rocky bank
which extends two cables' length from the shore, whilst the kelp and foul
ground are found nearly as far again.
From Koikla Point, the shore of the main trends S. 23° E., one mile,
when the cliffs give place to a fine sandy beach forming the bay ; this
portion of the shore is also faced by a low rocky flat, covered with kelp,
continuing as far as the middle of the sandy beach. Close to the end of the
cliffs is an Indian village, and the remains of the old abandoned Spanish
settlement, which was formed here long ago. Near to it is a stream of good
water, very convenient for the supply of shipping, as the kelp breaks the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 145
swell which at all times rolls into the bay, and the beach is steep enough
to allow the boats to lie close-to, except at the low water of spring tides.
From this stream the beach makes a sweep to Mee-na Point, forming the
bight of the bay, the land at the back being low and covered with forest.
Mee-na Point has a village of the same name close to it. These villages
are mostly deserted during the summer season, when the Indians are out
fishing, or roving along the banks of the strait, in search of berries and
the cammas-root, which forms the principal portion of their summer food.
From what has been said respecting the extent of the kelp, both from
the main and the back of Wyadda, it will be seen that the space left
clear for anchorage is not great ; the best berth is with Koikla Point N.
51° W.; Wyadda Island, N.W. point, N. 39° E. ; S.E. point N. 77° E.
There is also anchorage in the channel between the island and the main,
but it is very narrow and difficult to leave without a leading wind. There
are three and a half to four fathoms in the best berths. It is high water/full
and change, at 3 o'clock, the stream setting through the bay with the turn
of the tide, but with little strength. When leaving the bay with light
winds, care must be taken to allow for the set outside, as, at the entrance,
the flood sets towards the rocky ledge off Wyadda Island, and the ebb,
amongst the foul ground which lines the coast to the westward.
This bay does not by any means offer a secure anchorage, as the heavy
swell which often prevails outside is much felt. It is also exposed to
north-west winds, which bring in a heavy sea, and are much dreaded by
the natives.
In 1841, this bay was visited by Commander Wilkes, who says: — "Neeah
Harbour is but a small indentation in the coast, which is partly sheltered
on the north east by Wyadda Island. It is the position where the
Spaniards attempted to establish themselves in 1672, and which they
called Port Nunez Goma. The remains of an old fort are still to be
perceived, and some bricks were found that were supposed to have
belonged to it. Water is to be obtained here in some quantity, and a
small vessel would have no difficulty in getting enough. It offers a
tolerably safe anchorage, though somewhat exposed to the north-west
gales ; yet by anchoring well in, which a small vessel may do, protection
even from these gales might be had.
The ship, on anchoring, was surrounded by many canoes of the Classet
Indians, who inhabit the country around Cape Classet. They were well
disposed to trade, and were greatly surprised that so large a ship should
want no furs, which were of several kinds : the sea- otter was that most
prized, and held at very exorbitant prices, more than they could be
bought for in the United States.
The Classet tribe of Indians is one of the most numerous on the coast
that I had an opportunity of seeing, and seems the most intelligent.
L
146 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
These Indians wore small pieces of an iridescent muscle-shell, attached
to the cartilage of their nose, which was, in some, of the size of a ten
cents piece, and triangular in shape. It is generally kept in motion by
their breathing. They had seldom any clothing, excepting a blanket ;
but a few, who have contrived to make friends with the visitors, have ob-
tained some old clothes: while others seem to be in the pay of the
Hudson's Bay Company. The principal articles of trade are tobacco,
powder (' paulalee '), and leaden balls. These are preferred to most
other merchandise, although more can be obtained for spirits than for
any other article. This shows very conclusively, to my mind, the sort
of trade that was carried on, when the Boston ships entered into rivalry
with the North-west Company, for the purchase of furs.
It was reported to me, late in the afternoon, that a ball had been fired
at some of the sailors engaged in surveying ; but it did not do any
damage, striking the beach some little distance from them. I did not
think it worth while to make any enquiry or disturbance about this
matter, and only mention the fact, to caution those who may hereafter
visit this port, that it is necessary to be upon their guard.
At 2h. P.M., we got under way, with the Porpoise in company, and
succeeded in making an offing before the fog enveloped us. These fogs
are one of the greatest annoyances to vessels arriving on this coast ; for in
fine weather they are experienced almost daily, coming up with the
sea breeze, they continue throughout the night, and until the sun h
sufficient power the next day to dissipate them."
From Mee-na Point to Kydaka Point, the bearing is S. 61° E., 10
miles ; the coast is mostly low cliff, covered with trees, and fringed with
kelp-covered rocks. At two and a quarter miles west of Kydaka Point,
these cliffs disappear, the above point forming the eastern horn of a bay,
and having a ledge of rocks lying off it. This bay is open to the west-
ward.
At one and a half mile to the eastward of Mee-na Point is
Klaholoh or Seal Rock, a singular white rock, 150 feet high, com
of sandstone. This rock shut in with the south-east end of Wyad
Island, clears the rocks off Koikla Point. At six and a half miles i
the same direction, there is a remarkable white patch on the cliffs, caused
by a ship having bared the sandstone. The soundings off this portion
are regular, from five fathoms at the edge of the kelp out to 40 fathoms,
one and a half mile off.
From Kydaka to Sekou Point, the bearing is S. 61° E., thre
miles ; the coast is composed of broken cliff, with the deep soundin
nearer to the shore.
CALL AM BAY. — Sekou Point forms the western extreme
Callam Bay, and bears from Slip Point N. 86° W., two miles, whi
Lie
.;
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 147
gives the bay a depth of three-fourths of a mile. It is too open to the
north-west to afford good shelter, except from easterly winds, but it may
be used as a stopping place for a tide. The soundings vary from 6 to 14
fathoms. A small river falls into the bay, and there are lodges both
at its eastern and western sides ; that at the eastern is called Hygedith.
From Slip Point, off which a ledge of rocks extends, the coast trends
S. 66° E., six and a half miles, it being one high rugged cliff, with the
exception of a gorge, which connects a small bay at its eastern end
with the bay beyond. It is faced by the usual rocks and kelp, the
deep water approaching the rocks very close, not less than 40 to 50
fathoms being found a quarter of a mile from the cliffs.
From Pillar Point, which is so named from being formed by a high
detached rock, the shore takes a sudden bend to the southward, forming
a bay, the hills receding, and leaving a passage for a good sized river, the
Canel, which disembogues itself in this bight, and has nearly filled up
with sand banks its best sheltered or western portion. An Indian
village, called Ketsoth, may be seen on the eastern side of the mouth
of the stream, the inhabitants of which do not bear the best of characters,
and have a most repulsive appearance. The distance from Pillar to Low
Point is S. 74° E., 11| miles, the coast between being principally formed
of broken wooded cliffs with small sandy bays between, into which
numerous little streams run from the hills, which here rise at once from
the beach. The soundings are not so deep off this portion, 33 to 38
fathoms being found two and a quarter miles from the shore, which is
very flat and shallow, the kelp line extending in some places three-
quarters of a mile out, amongst which, numerous patches of rocks show
themselves at low water.
Low Point is a shingle spit, thrown out by the small River Lyre,
and forms its mouth.
From Low Point to Tongue Point the bearing is N. 86° E., 4*9 miles.
This part of the coast is even more broken, and the cliffs higher than
those last described. It is divided into two portions by a very rugged
broken point, 0*4 of a mile off which, is a sunken rock, on which the
sea breaks at low water. This point is three and three-quarter miles from
Low Point. To the westward of it the soundings are convenient for
anchorage, but there is little or no shelter, and the coast is lined
with rocks. To the eastward, is Crescent Bay, the western horn of
which it forms.
CRESCENT BAY. — The entrance to Crescent Bay is contracted
to a quarter of a mile off its western point, and has a rocky ledge ex-
tending a third of a mile off the eastern or Tongue Point. It is
small, and of no depth ; the soundings varying from three to six
fathoms, and it affords shelter to none but very small craft or boats.
L 2
148 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Tongue Point is formed by a spur of a conical hill which is a very
prominent object when working either up or down the strait ; if kept
on with the north-west end of Wyadda Island, it will lead to the
northward, clear of Duntze Rock and all the dangers to the west-
ward of Neeah Bay. It is called Striped Peak, from a white stripe
on its eastern face, where a land-slip has left the soil clear of trees.
From this point to Observatory Point the bearing is S. 74° E., three
miles. The coast is a rugged cliff, fringed with rocks, close to which
the deep water approaches.
From Observatory Point to Angelos Point the bearing is East, three
and a quarter miles, the coast between them forming a bay, one mile deep,
called Freshwater Bay ; this is clear, and tolerably well sheltered, having
anchorage in from five to ten fathoms all over it. Good water may
be had in the western bight. Off Observatory Point there is a small
island, and some rocks. From the point the coast runs in nearly South,
two- thirds of a mile, then S. 78° E., two and a quarter miles, when it
makes a sudden bend to the north-eastward, and extends out one and
a quarter mile to the point. The western half of the coast is cliff, with
a sand and shingle beach ; the eastern half is low, with a shingle beach.
Point Angelos has a beach of shingle and sand; it is a low and
gradually rounding point, formed by the River Elwha, which at the time
of the examination had two mouths, but as it runs for some distance
close to the beach, it is likely that both the position and number of
these entrances depend very much upon the melting of the snow, and
from other sources of supply in the Angelos Valley, from whence this
river flows. From Angelos Point, the hills recede, and leave a level space
between them and the coast ; from thence they rise suddenly to a grei
height, their summits capped with snow, even in summer, forming som<
of the highest peaks of the Mount Olympus range. The most coi
spicuous break is a deep and narrow valley abreast this point, calL
Angelos Valley, from whence, as before remarked, the River Elwhafloi
in a good sized stream, having sufficient water to admit our boats. The
whole of this country is covered with fine wood, and abounds in deer
and other game, but it is difficult to penetrate, from the underwood
and fallen trees. There are several Indian lodges on and near the
coast.
From Angelos Point to the commencement of Ediz Hook, the bearing
is S. 72° E., 3*8 miles, the coast forming a slight curve or bay, the
shores of which are alternately cliff and low ground. These cliffs are
for the most part bare of trees, and form a good mark for pointing out
the position of Port Angelos. The beach is mostly shingle. The
soundings off this part extend some distance out, 30 fathoms being
found nearly three miles off the bight of the bay. The tide runs
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 149
strongly here, and abreast the commencement of the Hook are several
ripplings and overfalls, which are caused by the sudden fall of the lead
from 9 to 30 fathoms ; for here the bank terminates abruptly, and the
deep water approaches close to the back of the shingle spit forming Port
Angelos.
PORT ANGELOS.— Port Angelos is one of those singularly formed
harbours and roadsteads which, under various modifications of size and
shape, abound in the strait. It is formed by the long, narrow, and
slightly curved shingle spit, called Ediz Hook, which extends N.
84° E., 2f miles from the cliffs which form its base. It is only
a few yards broad at high water for the greater part of its length,
but, like all the rest, its outer extreme is broader, and has a rounded
form. The curve is convex from the shore. At its base, or the apex of
the inner water, there is a small, shallow lake, which communicates with
the harbour by a narrow channel.
It may be remarked here that in every instance these spits are thrown
out in the direction of the flood tide (stream), and it is probable that this
is a rule which obtains in every part of the world, for wherever a shingle
spit is thrown out, it generally takes the direction of the flood stream, let
the prevailing winds be what they may. This circumstance may be a
useful hint, in the construction of works for preventing the growth of
shingle spits.
One of the most singular features of the spit just described is, that
though so narrow, it has deep water close-to on both sides, 25 to 28
fathoms less than a, hundred yards from the high water mark on the
inside, whilst from 30 to 40 fathoms may be had at the same distance
from the outside. From the commencement of the spit the cliffs recede,
and leave a level space of no great width between them and the shore of
the harbour. The rest of the coast of this port is composed of cliff and
these flat spots alternately ; the latter, where not overgrown with trees,
are covered with wild oats and a strong grass. Several small streams fall
into the bay, at any of which vessels may water, but all in the western
or upper part of it are subject to the inconvenience of having a long
flat in front of them at low water. The largest and best stream is a
little to the eastward of the entrance of the harbour, and is there-
fore exposed to the swell, but in smooth water it may be used with
advantage.
From the end of the spit to the main the breadth of the entrance is
one and a half mile ; but some rocky patches, having less than four
fathoms on them, extend a quarter of a mile from the main, and reduce
the available distance to little more than a mile ; its depth is two and a
quarter miles, and it affords anchorage in any depth from 5 to 20 fathoms
all over it. It is defended from all winds but from E. to E.N.E., and
even these may be avoided, by anchoring near the spit, whilst their force
150 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
and the sea they bring are much broken by Dungeness Point. There
are three separate Indian lodges within the harbour, one at the upper
or western end, another about the middle, the other a little to the east-
ward of the entrance. Captain Wood found these people civil, harmless,
and disposed to barter their salmon, &c., which are obtained outside of
the spit, where they seem to be plentiful.
When entering the harbour, care should be taken to allow for the
strong tide which sweeps past the spit-head. This point, however, is
steep, from 10 to 20 fathoms being found close to it. After clearing it,
a vessel should haul at once up the harbour, to avoid the before-mentioned
rocky patch, and anchor as convenient, observing that the water deepens
from four fathoms close to the kelp off the main shore, to 25 or 28
fathoms close to the spit. The time of high water is 3h. 50m. P.M.,
full and change, with a rise of tide of eight feet.
From Ediz Hook to Dungeness Point the bearing is N. 78° E., twelve
and a quarter miles, being a chord of a large but not a deep bay. From
the lodges abreast the entrance to Green Point the bearing is N. 85° E.,
four and three quarters miles ; this coast is composed of high sandstone
cliffs, mostly bare. With reference to the before-mentioned mark for
recognising the position of Port Angelos, it will be seen that the cliffs
on both sides are bare of trees, and composed of the same white sand-
stone ; whilst those within the harbour are nearly covered with trees,
and thus form a dark break or interval in the white line of cliff, which is
easily distinguished from seaward. Two miles from the lodges there is
a break in the cliff, where the small river or brook before-mentioned
finds its way to the beach, with another Indian lodge close to it. The
beach is mostly shingle and sand, but at low water the flat portion as well
as all the salient points are found to consist of boulder stones ; this is par-
ticularly the case at Green Point, where another small stream runs out,
and a break in the cliff affords access to the country by means of a
narrow valley. From Green Point to the bight or turn of the bay, which
is marked by another break in the cliff, the bearing is N. 86° E., two and
a half miles ; this part of the coast makes a sweep or bend, and is formed
of the same high and inaccessible sandstone cliffs, as before described,
and it may be remarked here that they preserve this character all
the way to the turn of the Dungeness cliffs, having but one break
in them.
At high water spring tides, the sea washes the foot of them, but as the
water recedes, a road is formed by the fine sandy beach, which both the
Indians and wild animals prefer to forcing their way through the thick
forest above them. At one and a half mile, N. 78° E., from Green Point,
and half a mile from the beach, lies a sunken rock, having only 1 1 feet
on it at low water, but six to ten fathoms all round; it is well marked by
kelp, and only lies in the way of vessels working up under the lee of
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 151
Dungeness. From the before-mentioned bight or break in the cliff,
the coast runs N. 46° E., for four and a half miles ; of this only two
miles are cliff, for they then make a sudden bend to east, for two and
a quarter miles, forming the base of the long, curved, Dungeness spit,
which commences at the spot where they turn, and where they become less
steep, and are clothed with trees. From the termination of the above
straight line, the spit sweeps round, and runs N. 72° E., one and a half
mile, to the point. The whole of this spit is composed of shingle and sand,
and is very narrow, except at the northern apex of the interior lake, where
the junction of the inner and outer coast lines forms a broader and higher
belt. With this exception, when the tides are high and a strong westerly
wind is blowing, the sea washes over the whole of it, covering its summit
with abundance of drift wood, amongst which are some very large trees.
Within the line connecting the two points Ediz Hook and Dungeness,
the soundings are regular, from 18 to 25 fathoms into five to three fathoms,
at a quarter of a mile from the beach. Outside the line the soundings
increase very gradually to 80 or 90 fathoms, but abreast the turn in the
spit the deep water approaches very close, and continues to do so up to
the shoal that runs out off the end of it, as much as 50 fathoms being
found less than one-third of a mile from the beach.
In easterly winds, anchorage may be had in this bay, but it is too much
exposed to westerly and north-westerly winds to be recommended.
From the extreme end of Dungeness Point, a shoal extends N. 41° E.,
one mile, having only two fathoms over it at low water spring tides. It is
narrow, but very steep, the lead falling at once from five or six fathoms
into 20 to 50 fathoms. In hauling round the point, either going in or
coming out, care should be taken to give this a clear berth, as the tide sets
over it with considerable strength, causing a strong over-fall, and in bad
weather a very nasty sea.
DUNGENESS BAY is formed by the spit just described, and en-
closes a large space available for anchorage, where shelter may be found
from any winds, from North round by the west to S.E., in from five to ten
fathoms, even with the wind at south-east. The land round Port Dis-
covery and Protection Island is so near that very little sea could be felt
till it got to East. The bottom is stiff mud, forming very tenacious hold-
ing-ground, and but little tide is felt. There is very good water to be
had in a cove at the bottom of the bay close to the entrance of the lagoon.
At low water, however, the flat which fills up this bight and extends some
distance out would be a great hindrance to a watering-party. When
going either up or down the strait, this is a more convenient place to wait
for tide or daylight than Port Discovery, or the anchorage under Protec-
tion Island, being more easy both of access and egress, and having less
depth of water.
152 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
The outside of the spit has been described ; the inside is precisely simi-
lar, except that of the beach, which shoals off very gradually, leaving a mud
flat, narrow towards the point, but gradually widening as it sweeps into
the bight of the bay, where it extends three-quarters of a mile off the
shore, and is mostly dry at low water springs, leaving, however, a very
narrow channel into the lagoon. From the spot where the lagoon com-
mences, the beach lies S. 22° W., for rather more than a mile, when it
is terminated by its entrance. The spit is of the same character as that
outside, but narrower and not so high. The entrance to the lake is small
and choked with shoals, but at high water a small vessel may enter, and
find sufficient depth within to float her at low water. The Hudson's Bay
Company's schooner Cadboro did this, and both traded and watered ; but
it could only be done at spring tides, and is not to be recommended. The
southern side of the entrance is formed by two points or spits, the inner
one of which runs out from the east end of the cliff before -mentioned, and
overlaps the North Spit. The outer point is the end of a spit of shingle
which forms the commencement of the beach that runs to the eastward
and makes the coast line in that direction.
it has been recommended to build a lighthouse on Dungeness Point,
and Lieutenant Me Arthur, U.S. Navy, says : — "I have carefully ex-
amined the roadstead of New Dungeness, and find it to be safe and capa-
cious. The holding-ground is excellent, and it is well protected from
all winds except those from the N.E. ; a quarter from which it seldom
or never blows so hard as to endanger shipping. The ingress and
egress are remarkably convenient. A point, two and a quarter miles
in length, extends from the main land, and completely shelters the
anchorage from the strong and prevalent north-west winds. This
point is quite low and narrow, and not discernible at night. On the
extremity of this point I would recommend a lighthouse of the first
power to be built ; the shaft to be not less that 80 feet in height. Thus
situated, it would guard navigators against the spit, as well as point out
the anchorage. The entrance is entirely clear ; but, as the profile of the
bottom is so precipitous, I would advise navigators to come to an anchor
in not less than 10 or 13 fathoms water."
Commander Wilkes observes that a vessel may approach Dungeness
Point to within a quarter of a mile, and after rounding it, safe and secure
anchorage may be obtained, in from 10 to 15 fathoms water, in a road-
stead sufficiently capacious to accommodate a very large fleet. Abundance
of wood, water, and fine fish may be obtained.
The following is by Mr. G. J. Gibbon, R.N., of H. M. sloop Modeste,
in 1844:—
" I would recommend all strangers when bound into Fuca Strait,
after they have made both capes, to get into a mid-channel course,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 1 53
steering about E. \ S., until the centre of Classet Island bears anything
to the westward of S.S.W., then an E \ N. course will take you up off
Kocky Point (which is the most south-eastward projection of Vancouver
Island, and has off it many rocks above water ; the largest of them is
about the size of the hull of a ship of about £00 tons, and is the southern
most of the whole group), and sufficiently to the northward to clear the
shelving ground off False and New Dungeness. Should you be bound
for Port Victoria, and from the direction of the wind have to borrow on
the north shore, be sure to give these rocks a berth of at least half a mile,
for the tide runs here very strong and irregular. From the outer or
southern rock, the mouth of Victoria bears N.N.E. J E., about 11 J miles
distant. It has a dangerous rock lying off it, covered with only 11 feet of
water, and bears from the south-eastern point of the harbour about south,
500 fathoms. I know of no good anchorage without the harbour, the
land being steep-to, and bottom rocky. H.M. sloop Modeste, in Septem-
ber, 1844, anchored in 35 fathoms water, about a mile S. J E. from the
mouth of the harbour, and N.N.E. \ E. from Rocky Point.
Being abreast of Rocky Point, and bound for New Dungeness, steer
S.E. \ E. to S.E. by E., depending on the direction of the wind and the
set of the tide, and having reached within sight of the Ness (being the
eastern end of a remarkable belt of pine trees which extends the whole
length of the southern side of Dungeness Bay), bear a little to the
southward of S.S.E., which will clear you of a long shelving spit of
sand, extending about three-quarters of a mile to the northward from
the extreme point of Dungeness Spit, over which the tide runs strongly,
and produces a dangerous race for boats. Run on that bearing until
within the bay, and when you have brought the extreme point of Dunge-
ness Spit to bear from N. by W. to N. \ W., you may then haul up for the
head of the bay, and anchor in any depth, from seven to four fathoms,
good tough holding-ground.
The best position for a small vessel to anchor in is, about a quarter of
a mile from the north side of the bay, with the extreme point of the sandy
spit bearing from N.N.E. to N.E. in from five to four fathoms water.
There is excellent water to be had from a small river in the south-west
part of the bay, where you can enter your boats at half-tide, and fill the
casks in the boat. Potatoes, salmon, and a great variety of fish are
brought by Indians to barter for clothes. Whale and salmon oils are also
offered in small quantities.
The natives are not unlike those at Cape Classet ; the men have a wild
and savage aspect, are of the middle stature, somewhat robust, and their
complexion tawny ; while their only covering is a sin all plaited grass-fringed
apron round their loins. The women present a soft and mild appearance,
and are not of an uninteresting complexion ; they have a pleasing manner of
articulating words of their language, and were it not for the deformity of
154 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the upper part of their heads, which are flattened when infants, they
would be symmetrically formed. They are blessed with a bewitching
risibility of expression, which is seldom displayed with more becoming
modesty by an enlightened race. Their dress is simply a fringed belt,
made from the fibres of the inner part of bark of the white cedar, worn
round the loins.
The climate, I think, is in no way insalubrious, at any season of the
year. The distant country is exceedingly mountainous, many of the
highest peaks, Mount Baker especially, being capped with perpetual snow ;
whilst there are many extensive plains, clad with exuberant pasture,
where numerous herds of elk and deer are found. The dense forests of
pine, cedar, oak, yew, maple, poplar, ash, willow, alder, elder, and hazel,
are the abiding places of the bear, panther, wolf, fox, racoon, lynx, and
squirrel ; whilst the lakes abound with wild-fowl, swans, geese, ducks,
seals, &c., and, in season, the swamps and marshes afford cover for snipe
and plover.
It is in the lakes of the high land where the sagacious beaver builds its
huge dam with such adroitness and skill, so that its instinct would seem
to surpass the genius of man himself."
BUDD'S HARBOUR.— At about 6 miles to the southward of Dunge-
ness Point is Budd's Harbour, the entrance to which is by a narrow
channel of two and a half fathoms water, but which may be easily deepened
should it be necessary. It is a fine and very capacious harbour, being four
miles long, and one and a half mile wide, and perfectly secure at all times
for repairs. When inside there is a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms,
shoaling gradually as you approach the head of the harbour.
PORT DISCOVERY.— The entrance to this port is aboutseven miles
to the south-eastward of Dungeness Point. It is a harbour easy of access,
and affords good protection ; but the depth of water and the high preci-
pitous banks will almost preclude its being made the seat of a settlement.
The anchorage is close to the shore in 27 fathoms water. The extent of
the harbour is about seven and a half miles, with an average width of one
and a half mile, and its points, which terminate in low sandy projections,
interlock each other. At the head of the harbour is a small stream
which has its rise at some distance in the country : there is also a small
stream on the western shore, five miles from the entrance, the outfall of
which is through one of the low spits of sand constituting most of the pro-
jecting points of the inlet.
Vancouver remarks that " these projecting points usually acquire a
form somewhat circular, though irregular ; and, in general, are nearly
steep-to, extending from the cliffy woodland country, from 100 to 600
yards towards the water's edge, and are composed of a loose sandy soil.
The surface of some was almost entirely occupied by a lagoon of salt
water, or brackish swamp ; others were perfectly dry ; no one of them
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 155
produced any trees ; but were mostly covered with a coarse spiry grass,
interspersed with strawberries, two or three species of clover, samphire,
and a great variety of other small plants, some of which bore very beautiful
flowers. On a few of the points were some shrubs that seemed to thrive
excessively, such as roses, a species of sweet-briar, gooseberries, rasp-
berries, currants, and other small bushes, which, in their respective sea-
sons, produce most probably the several fruits common to this and the
opposite side of America. These all appeared to grow very luxuriantly ;
and, from the quantity of blossoms with which they were loaded, there
was great reason to believe them very productive.
We had little trouble in clearing a sufficient space for our encampment,
which was very commodiously situated, close to the north side of the
stream or brook. In my excursion up the harbour, I found that it ex-
tended about four miles from the ship, and then terminated in a muddy flat
across its head, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The water,
which was seven fathoms deep close to the flat, gradually deepened to 10,
20, and 30 fathoms, good holding-ground. On this bank were found some
small indifferent oysters. The shores beyond it are low and thickly
wooded, and through them there appeared to run a very considerable
stream of water, with several smaller ones, emptying themselves into the
harbour. The back country had the appearance of a swampy fen for a
considerable distance. We landed not far from the largest rivulet, where
we found a deserted village, capable of containing about 100 inhabitants."
If Port Discovery lies under any disadvantage it is its great depth of
water ; but the bottom is excellent holding-ground, and free from rocks.
Towards the upper part of the harbour it decreases in depth, and there is
perhaps not a more eligible spot for riding than off the first low sandy
point on the western shore, about four and a half miles from the entrance ;
here Vancouver anchored, and obtained supplies of wood and water. The
country in the neighbourhood of the port is of a moderate height, although
bounded on the west side by mountains covered with snow, to which the
land from the water's edge rises, in a pleasing diversity, by hills of gradual
ascent. The snow on these hills probably dissolves as the summer ad-
vances, for pine trees are produced on their very summits. On the sea
shore the land generally terminates in low sandy cliffs ; though in some
spaces of considerable extent it runs nearly level from high water mark.
There are few places where the variety and beauty of the flowers are so
great as they are here ; the general character of the soil around this har-
bour is a thin, black, vegetable mould, with a substratum of sand and
gravel. The vigour and luxuriance of its productions prove it to be a
rich fertile mould, which might possibly be considerably improved by the
addition of the calcareous matter contained in the marrow-stone that pre-
sents itself in many places. The trees grow so closely, that in some
156 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
places the woods are almost impenetrable. The timber consists principally
of pine, fir, and spruce. Of the latter there are two species, one of
which resembles the hemlock-spruce of the United States : it has a very
tall growth, and puts out but few, and those but small lateral branches.
Some maple-trees grow in the open ground and on the banks, but they
are too small to be of any service to the settler.
The Indians in the vicinity of Port Discovery are of the Callam tribe.
They occupy a few miserable lodges on one of the points, and are a most
filthy race, so much so, that the appearance of their lodges is absolutely
disgusting.
Before the entrance of Port Discovery, is a small island, named Protec-
tion Island, which is about one mile in extent, and has a reef of rocks
extending off the east and west ends. It is separated from the points of
Port Discovery by a channel, one and a quarter mile wide, in which there
is a depth of water of from 50 to 60 fathoms. Had this island been
located by the most able engineer, it could not have been placed more
happily for the protection of the port, not only from the N.W. winds, to
the violence of which it would otherwise be greatly exposed, but against
all attempts of an enemy, when properly fortified ; hence it has been well
named Protection Island.
Port Discovery was visited in 1841, by Commander Wilkes, who
remarks : — " After passing Protection Island, an extensive bay opened,
on whose shores we saw the long poles mentioned by Vancouver, and
represented in his book. The use of these he was unable to discover,
but the Indians informed us that they were for the purpose of suspending
nets for taking the wild-fowl that frequent these shores in great numbers.
On these poles the nets are set up at night, at which time the geese search
these grounds for food : fires are then' lighted, which alarm the birds,
and cause them to fly against the nets, by which they are thrown upon
the ground, where, before they have time to recover themselves, they are
caught and killed.
The description of Vancouver is so exactly applicable to the present
state of this port, that it was difficult to believe that almost half a century
had elapsed since it was written. The beautiful woods and lawns of
Protection Island, in particular, exist unchanged. The lawns still
produce the same beautiful flowers and shrubs, and though closely sur-
rounded by dense woods, do not seem to have been encroached upon by
their luxuriant growth, although there is no apparent reason why it
should not, long ere this, have overrun them.
The name of Port Discovery was given by Vancouver. Protection
Island covers it completely to the north, and would render it easily
defensive against the most formidable attack. The only objection to it
as a harbour is the great depth of the water, which in the middle is
THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 157
nowhere less than 40 or 50 fathoms, and is often as much as 16 fathoms
close to the shore.
There is no permanent settlement of Indians at Port Discovery, and
during our stay we had visitors from the various neighbouring tribes.
The two sexes of all who visited us were dressed almost alike, and can
hardly be distinguished in external appearance from each other : both
wear their hair long, and both are equally dirty. All the adults have
their heads much flattened, which appears to be performed, as it is among
the more southern tribes, by compressing the frontal and occipital bones
by several thicknesses of bark, until they become set, and the head takes
a permanent shape. Their children seem to give them but little trouble ;
in their 'infancy they are tied to a piece of bark, which is hung to a tree
or pole, where it is kept in motion by a string fastened to the toe of the
mother. These Indians appear to have but few of the comforts, and
barely the necessaries of life. They live principally on fish, shell-fish,
the cammas-root, and potatoes. They have muskets and bows and
arrows ; the bows are short and small, but possess great strength,
and are made of yew : their arrows are pointed with iron or bone."
At six and a half miles to the eastward of Protection Island is Point
"Wilson, the western side of the entrance to Admiralty Inlet.
PORT SAN JUAN.— The first bay on the north side of Fuca
Strait, when entering from the westward, is Port San Juan, which is
nearly opposite Cape Classet, and is a fine deep harbour, but open to the
south-west, and exposed to the full effect of both wind and swell. It is
about three and three-quarter miles in breadth in a N.N.W. direction, and
one and a half mile broad, and has soundings over it of 8 to 10 fathoms,
decreasing to four and three at the head of the bay. Its western side
has some rocks, awash, lying off it some little distance ; and there are
also some ledges, named the Hammond and Observatory Rocks, off the
eastern side of the bay ; but you may avoid all these rocks by keeping
as much as possible in mid-channel. The River Gordon falls into the
head of the bay on the north side, and on the south side is Cooper's
Inlet ; both these are shallow, but supply fresh water. The Observatory
Rocks, on the east side of the entrance, are in lat. 48° 31' 30" N., and
long. 124° 28' 15" W., according to the observations of Captain Kellett,
R.N., in 1847. Variation 21° E.
From Port San Juan the coast runs in nearly an unbroken line, 22 i
miles, in an East direction, to Sherringham Point, and is high with deep
soundings a short distance off. At seven miles from Port San Juan is
the River Sombrio, close to which is a reef of rocks, and 10 miles farther
is the River Jordan ; both these rivers are small streams. At four miles
from Sherringham Point is Point Otter, three and a half miles beyond
which is Sooke Inlet.
158 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
SOOKE INLET. — This is a narrow channel, three and a half miles
long, leading into a wide basin two miles in extent, which is perfectly
landlocked, and has a depth of 10 to 15 fathoms. Sooke Inlet is diffi-
cult to navigate, on account of its winding direction. On its northern
side the water is shallow, and sends off several spits of shingle, one of
which joins Whiffin Island, so that the entrance is limited to a few yards
in width. The depth is from three to nine fathoms, and the safest course
appears to be to keep along the eastern side ; but it is not recommended
to attempt this inlet without a pilot.
On the eastern side of Sooke Inlet, and just off the coast, is Secretary
Island, a small, but bold rocky islet, separated from the shore by sound-
ings of 15 to IGfathoms; it liesinlat.480 19'30"N., and long. 123° 42' 40"
W., and has from 80 to 90 fathoms at one and a half mile to the south-
ward of it. At nearly three miles to the eastward of Secretary Island is
Beechey Head, the western side of the entrance to Becher Bay. This
bay is about one and a half mile in extent, but, although possessing a
depth of water of from 9 to 15 fathoms, it is too exposed to the south-
ward to be of much use. In it are Frazer and Wolfe Islands, but as
there are several rocks scattered about, it must not be attempted without
a pilot. Beechey Head is estimated to be in lat. 48° 18' 30" N., and long.
123° 39' 27" W.
From Smyth Head, the eastern point of Becher Bay, the distance to
Cape Church is about one mile in a W.S.W. direction ; near Smyth
Head are the Bedford Islands, and off Cape Church are Church and
several other islets. From hence the distance to Cape Christopher, the
most southern point of Vancouver Island, is about one mile in an E.N.E.
direction, and the coast then turns to the northward, one and a half mile
to Cape Calver, the southern point of Pedder Bay.
Between Capes Christopher and Calver is Bentinck Island with
several islets and rocks about it, and at one mile to the south-westward of
this island are the Race Islets or Rocks, which are steep-to, having deep
water in their immediate vicinity.
PEDDER BAY.— From Bentinck Island the coast takes an abrupt
turn to the northward, forming several bays and harbours ; the hills, also,
recede here from the coast line, leaving a more level country. The first
is a long narrow inlet called Pedder Bay, the northern point of which
forms a cove, weirsheltered from all but south-easterly winds, having
good anchorage, and being convenient for awaiting the turn of the tide
off the Race Rocks. The north-east side of the bay is William
Head, separating it from Parry Head, the north limit of which is Albert
Head, three and a quarter miles farther to the northward.
ROYAL BAY. — This is an extensive bay to the northward of Albert
Head, in which there is good and safe anchorage. At the bottom, or
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 159
north-east corner of the bay, is the entrance to Esquimalt Harbour, a safe
and excellent port. From Sailor Point, forming the eastern extreme of
Royal Bay, the coast trends to the eastward again, also forming the
western point of the entrance into Port Victoria, a narrow, intricate, as
well as shallow harbour ; but which, though so small, the Hudson's Bay
Company have selected as the site of their establishment, from the superior
nature of the adjacent soil. Amongst its other disadvantages, there lies
off the entrance a dangerous patch of rocks, called Brotchy Ledge, with
two feet water over it.
ESQUIMALT HARBOUR.— The entrance to this harbour, as
before- stated, lies at the north-east corner of Royal Bay, and is about
one-quarter of a mile wide, passing between Duntze Head on the east,
and Fishguard Island, off Rodd Point, on the west. A depth of from
eight to nine fathoms will be found in the entrance, but gradually a lesser
depth as you proceed inwards. On the eastern side of the harbour
lies Village Bay, having a depth of from five to six fathoms, in the
eastern portion of which are some rocks, named the Village Rocks. Esqui-
malt Harbour runs inland about two miles, in a north-westerly direction
from the entrance, but it is contracted by the Inskip Islands, at three-
quarters of a mile due West, from which is a rock in mid-channel having
only 10 feet water on it.
For about one hundred yards off Fishguard Island the water is shoal,
and to the southward of Duntze Head, which is bold-to, are some islets,
named the Brothers, off which are the Scrogg Rocks, some sunken rocks
which extend 150 yards, the outermost being S. by E., one-third of a
mile, from Duntze Head.
VICTORIA HARBOUR.— In this harbour is the most important
settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company in Vancouver's Island. It was
established in 1842, and it is probable that the establishment at Fort
Vancouver on the Columbia River may, after a few years, be removed to
it. The country in the immediate vicinity of the harbour is highly
fertile, and said to be well adapted to either tillage or pasture. It is
well wooded, and produces abundance of grass and clover. Water, also, is
very abundant.
The entrance to Port Victoria is rendered somewhat difficult by a bar
which stretches across, but when inside, the depth increases to two and a
half and three fathoms. It is said that buoys have been placed on all the
shoal patches, but it is not advisable for strangers to attempt to run
in without a pilot. The settlement is about three-quarters of a mile
within the entrance, where are a fort and the requisite buildings for
trading.
There is a dangerous shoal, named Brotchy Ledge, lying about a mile
to the south-eastward of the entrance of the harbour, at half a mile from
160 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the eastern shore. On one spot there are only two or three feet water,
and as immediately around it are 14 to 20 fathoms, with eight fathoms
between it and the eastern shore, it is highly dangerous. Two beacons
have lately been established on the shore side, for the purpose of marking
its situation ; one of these is on a small hill, hence named Mount
Beacon. If these beacons are brought in one, they will lead over the
ledge.
It is said that since 1846 considerable additions have been made to the
buildings at Victoria, and the stockade now includes all the goods stores,
and extends 450 feet by 330. The dairy also has been much improved,
and a breed of cattle introduced. Butter in considerable quantities is
salted for exportation, as well as salmon ; large quantities of which, as
well as grain, are sent to the Sandwich Islands and Russian settlements
to the northward. A good substantial wooden bridge has been thrown
across the narrows above Victoria, and a road cut to a saw mill, now in
the course of erection on a small stream that runs into the head of
Esquimalt Harbour.
From Point Victoria, the coast to the eastward is low, and indented as
far as Point Gonzales, off which are two small islands, named Trial
Islands. From this point it trends northwards, forming a deep but rocky
and shallow bay, called for this reason Shoal Bay, which is closed up by
two low rocky islets, named Discovery and Chatham Islands, and by a
bed of rocks named the Chain Rocks. The northern horn of this bay
is named Cadboro Point, and behind it is a hill named Mount Tolme.
From hence the coast of Vancouver Island runs to the north-westward,
forming the western shore of Haro or Arro Strait.
SAILING DIRECTIONS.— When running in for Fuca Strait, two
precautions must be observed. The first is that Cape Flattery does not,
as is generally supposed, form the southern point of the entrance, but
is a projection of no particular elevation, in lat. 48° 0*6' N., and long.
124° 47' W., or 17 miles to the south ward of Cape Classet, which is the
true southern extreme, and is situated in lat. 48° 23' N. and long.
124° 44' W.
The other is, to allow sufficiently for the usual southerly set, so as to
keep in the parallel of 48° 28', when the Strait will be well open, then
make for the centre of it, as should the wind fall light, (as it mostly does
at sun-set in fine weather,) before Neeah Bay can be reached, the vessel
will probably be set by the ebb tide towards Duncan Rock, and its off-
lying danger, Duntze Rock. These are to be provided against by all pos-
sible means, as this tide sets directly over towards them, the former being
nearly covered at high water, and the latter having but two and a half
or three fathoms over it, and occasionally a heavy sea breaking on it.
There is also very deep water close to them ; whilst farther to the north-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 161
west, towards the Vancouver side, the kedge may be let go in from 40 to
60 fathoms.
Vessels from Neeah Bay, bound up the strait to Victoria, should
shape a course to make the Race Islets or Rocks, bearing S. 84° E., 43
miles from the north point of Wyadda Island, and when one mile north
of this point, an E. by S. course will lead one and a half mile to the
southward of them. Having run that distance, they should then haul up
for Royal Bay, as, unless about to enter Victoria or Esquimalt Harbour,
this is the best anchorage.
As the winds are mostly from the westward, it is generally necessary
to beat down ; in which case vessels leaving Victoria or Royal Bay
should start so as to be off the Race Rocks at the first of the ebb, but
failing in this there is good anchorage and shelter in the cove at the
south-west end of Parry Bay, where they may await the turn of the tide.
By being off these rocks at the first of the ebb, the anchorages either in
Sooke, Pillar, or Callam Bay, may be reached before the flood makes.
When leaving either of these anchorages, it is advisable to keep on the
southern shore, during the rest of the beat to Neeah Bay, which may
generally be reached in one tide more.
When leaving Neeah Bay with an ebb tide, to beat out of the strait,
care must be taken, as before remarked, to avoid being set towards the
dangers off Tatooche Island.
It may be as well to remark here, that the current or tide stream
within the strait seems to be affected by various causes, and is con-
sequently subject to great irregularities. At springs there is generally a
strong and tolerably regular set of the tidal stream, six hours each way,
beginning on the shore rather sooner than in the offing, but at neaps
the tides are not so regular, for, when beating down, Commander
Wood passed through even three different streams, within as many miles
of the land.
Between the points at the entrance, the current is affected by the
coast stream which sets across them, the flood going to the northward,
the ebb to the southward.
Between Point Angelos and the Race Rocks, the tide runs about
three knots, especially off the latter, and must be allowed for when
hauling round them for Victoria. Beyond this the tides are not so
strong, but move rather slower through the great basin before men-
tioned, but even here, off all the points, such as Trial Islands, Point
Wilson, Dungeness, &c., it runs very strong at springs, from two and a
half to three knots.
Throughout the western portion of the strait, the stream follows the
general direction of the coast, except, as before remarked, at the entrance,
where both flood and ebb are more or less influenced by the coast stream.
M
162 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Abreast of the Race Rocks the stream divides, the northern portion
setting direct for Trial Islands, and so up the Haro Strait ; the middle
portion making a direct course for the entrance of the Rosario Strait ;
whilst the southern stream sets past Dungeness Point for Point Wilson,
and so up Admiralty Inlet. Off each of these straits, or inlets, the
main stream of ebb is more or less affected by the body of water poured
into it, till, off the Race Rocks, they all unite and run parallel with the
coast to the ocean.
It is high water, full and change, at Neeah Bay, at 3h. P.M. ; at Port
Angelos, at 3h. 50m. P.M., rise 8 feet; and at Victoria, 4h. P.M., rise
10 feet.
ADMIRALTY INLET, PUGET SOUND, AND HARO STRAIT.
Admiralty Inlet is the inlet leading to Puget Sound. On the eastern
side of the inlet, as well as at the head of Fuca Strait, and the waters
within the Gulf of Haro, as far as Point Roberts, in lat. 49° N., there
are many fine harbours and bays formed by the islands and projecting
headlands. Some of these are more extensive than others, but they will
all in time become places of resort for vessels. Situated on the east
side, they are more accessible for trade than those on the peninsulas on
the west side ; and from having a larger area of country lying around
them, susceptible of improvement, they must become more thickly and
densely populated.
The archipelago, between Haro Strait and Ringgold's Channel, offers
many fine anchorages. The islands composing it afford large quantities
of sandstone and granite for building purposes, which, from its nearness
to water transportation, may be easily taken to any locality within these
waters. The Gulf of Georgia and Johnson Straits are not well adapted
for navigation, in consequence of the rapidity of the tides, and the many
sunken rocks at the northern outlet. The harbours within them, both
on the main land and Vancouver's Island, are useless, on account of the
great depth of water and the perpendicular banks.
The Narrows, which connect Admiralty Inlet with Puget Sound, are
a mile in width and four and a half miles long ; the tide here runs with
great velocity, carrying a ship through with great rapidity, and at times
not without danger. The banks rise nearly perpendicular, and are com-
posed of sandstone ; a great variety of shrubs grow along their base.
This narrow pass seems as if intended by nature to afford every means for
the defence of Puget Sound, and will no doubt be made use of when
the country becomes more peopled. Point Defiance, on the east, com-
mands all the approaches to it.
Puget Sound may be described as a collection of inlets, covering a
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 163
area of 15 square miles, the only entrance to which is through the Nar-
rows, which, if strongly fortified, would bid defiance to any attack, and
guard its entrance against any force.
The inlets, in the order in which they come from the entrance, have
received the names of Carr's, Case's, Hammersley's, Totten's, Eld's,
Budd's, and Henderson's ; they are united by passages which form seve-
ral islands and peninsulas. All these inlets are safe, commodious, and
capacious harbours, well supplied with water, and the land around them
is fertile. On many of the islands and peninsulas are to be found slate
and sandstone, which, though soft and friable in some places where
it has been exposed on the surface, will be found suitable for building
purposes.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of these waters, and their safety. Not
a shoal exists within the Strait of Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound,
or Hood's Canal, that can in any way interrupt their navigation by a
seventy-four gun ship.
The shores of all the inlets and bays are remarkably bold, so much
more so, that in many places a ship's side would strike the shore before
the keel would touch the ground. Some few of them have creeks run-
ning into them with water sufficient to turn mills. These creeks all have
extensive mud-flats at their mouths, with fertile prairies at their heads
and along their banks. The spring tides rise 18 feet, those of the neap
12 feet, affording every facility for the construction of dry-docks, &c.
The country on all these salt-water inlets is thought to be remarkably
healthy ; the winter is represented to be mild, and but of short duration,
and the channels and harbours are never obstructed by ice.
ADMIRALTY INLET.— At the entrance of Admiralty Inlet, on the
western side, is Port Townsend, a fine sheet of water, three and a quar-
ter miles in length, by one and three-quarters in width. Near the
head of the bay, on the western side, is an extensive table-land, free
from wood, which would afford a good site for a town. The eastern side
of the bay is formed by two islands, so that when within you lie nearly
land-locked. This bay is free from dangers, there being all over it a
depth of 10 to 15 fathoms, and it is well protected from the quarters
whence stormy winds blow. It has anchorage of a convenient depth,
and abundance of fresh water may be obtained. At the extreme west
end of the bay there is a lodge of Indians (1841), and here the soil is
a light sandy loam, apparently very productive, as it was covered with
wild flowers, and strawberry plants in blossom. From this part of the
bay Mount Baker is distinctly seen to the north-eastward, and forms a fine
sight when its conical peak is illuminated by the setting sun.
Vancouver visited Port Townsend in 1792, and remarks: — " It proved
to be a very safe and more capacious harbour than Port Discovery, and ren-
M 2
161« SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
dered more pleasant by the high land being at a greater distance from the
water side. Its soundings also give it a further advantage, being very
regular from side to side, from 10 to 20 fathoms depth of water, good
holding-ground ; but with respect to fresh water, so far as we could deter-
mine by our transitory visits, it was very deficient."
The north-east point of Port Townsend is a high steep cliff formed
of indurated clay, much resembling fuller's earth, and hence, named by
Vancouver, Marrow-stone Point ; it is the northern point of the outer-
most island on the east side of the bay. East of this cliff, the shore is
extended, about a quarter of a mile, by one of the sandy projecting points
so peculiar to Fuca Strait. The country on the eastern shore of the bay,
as far as the eastern snowy range, presents a very luxuriant appearance ;
at its northern extremity is Mount Baker, and Mount Rainier also is
clearly visible, bearing about N. 42° E.
At the southern extremity of the islands forming the eastern side of
Port Townsend, is a small bay named Oak Cove, or Port Lawrence, in
which there is a depth of 8 to 15 fathoms. It is situated just at the junc-
tion of Admiralty Inlet and Hood's Canal, and is separated from the head
of Port Townsend only by a narrow strip of land. . This is considered to
be a very convenient anchorage.
Departing from Oak Cove, and following the western side of Admiralty
Inlet, after sailing about five miles, you will reach Foulweather Bluff, a
high perpendicular point, forming the western side of Hood's Canal, and
separating it from the Inlet. This in some positions has the appearance
of an island.
Soon after passing Foulweather Bluff you will reach a small cove,
named Pilots' Cove ; and soon after, another, named Apple-tree Cove, from
the numbers of that tree which were in blossom around its shores at the
time of the survey. This latter cove is about 10 miles from Foulweather
Bluff, and, although but of small extent, it answers for a temporary
anchorage; in it there are soundings of 3 to 10 fathoms.
About two miles, south of Apple-tree Cove is Port Madison, a fine
harbour, having a depth of 15 to 30 fathoms. It is about two miles in
extent, and affords every possible convenience for shipping. Between
this harbour and Port Orchard is a large island, named Bainbridge Island,
which is separated from the shore by a narrow but deep channel, wide
and deep enough to allow ships to pass to Port Orchard.
It has been remarked by Commander Wilkes that " the scenery of this
portion of Admiralty Inlet resembles strongly parts of the Hudson River,
particularly those about Poughkeepsie and above that place. The dis-
tant highlands, though much more lofty, reminded us of the Kaatskills.
There were but few lodges of Indians seen on our way up ; and the whole
line of shore had the appearance of never having been disturbed by man.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 165
PORT ORCHARD. — At about seven miles to the southward of Port
Madison is Restoration Point, the south-eastern point of Bainbridge
Island, and the northern point of the entrance to Port Orchard. Here
Vancouver found that the tides were materially affected by the direction
and force of the wind, not only in respect to their rise and fall, but as to
the time of high water. The former seldom exceeded seven or eight feet,
and the latter generally took place about 4h. 10m. after the moon had
passed the meridian.
Port Orchard is one of the most extensive and beautiful of the many
fine harbours in these inland waters, and is perfectly protected from the
winds. It consists of two inner and an outer harbour. The former,
although the entrance is by a strait not more than 200 yards wide, is from
a half to one and a half mile in width, and extends for a distance of six
miles. The water is deep enough for the largest class of vessels, with
a bold shore, and good anchorage.
The only danger in Port Orchard is a reef of rocks nearly in the middle
of the entrance from Admiralty Inlet. This port is very extensive, and
surrounded by a large growth of trees, with here and there a small prairie
covered by a verdant greensward, and with its honeysuckles and roses,
when in bloom, resembling a well kept lawn. The soil is superior to
that of most places around the sound, and is capable of yielding almost
any kind of production. The woods are alive with squirrels, while tracks
along the shore, and through the forest, show that the larger class of ani-
mals also are in the habit of frequenting them.
Commander Wilkes says : — " Port Orchard was found to communicate,
on the north, with Port Madison, which we had surveyed on our way up
the sound. Lieutenant Maury, with the boats, surveyed this passage, and
found that it had a depth of four and a half fathoms at low tide. Near
this passage is a place where the Roman Catholic Missionaries have esta-
blished a station for teaching the surrounding tribes. A large cross is
erected, and a building 172 feet long by 72 wide, which was found to
contain many rude images. Many of the natives are capable of saying
their prayers and telling their beads, and some were met with who could
sing some Catholic hymns in their own language."
Vancouver writes on May 24th, 1792: — "We found the entrance of
the opening situated in the western corner of the cove, formed by two in-
terlocking points about a quarter of a mile from each other ; these formed
a channel about half a mile long, free from rocks or shoals, in which there
was not less than five fathoms water. From the west end of this narrow
channel the inlet is divided into two branches, one extending to the S.W.
about five or six miles, the other to the north about the same distance, con-
stituting a most complete and excellent port, to all appearance perfectly
free from danger, with regular soundings, from four fathoms near the shores
1G6 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
to nine and 10 fathoms in the middle, good holding-ground. It occupied us
the whole day to row round it, in doing which we met a few straggling
Indians, whose condition seemed excessively wretched and miserable.
The country which surrounds this harbour varies in its elevation ; in some
places the shores are low level land, in others of a moderate height, falling
in steep low cliffs on the sandy beach which in most places binds the
shores. It produces some small rivulets of water, is thickly wooded with
trees, mostly of the pine tribe, and with some variety of shrubs. This
harbour, after the gentleman who discovered it, obtained the name of Port
Orchard. The best passage into it is found by steering from the village
point for the south point of the cove, which is easily distinguished, lying
from the former S. 62° W., at the distance of about two and a half miles,
then hauling to the N.W. into the cove, keeping on the port or S.W.
shore, and passing between it and the rocks in the cove ; in this channel
the depth of water is from 9 to 15 fathoms, gradually decreasing to five
fathoms in the entrance into the port. There is also another passage
round to the north of these rocks, in which there are seven fathoms water ;
this is narrow, and by no means so commodious to navigate as the southern
channel."
Immediately opposite the southern entrance of Port Orchard there is a
small island ; and beyond this are two islands, named Vashon Islands,
which occupy a space of about ten miles, and have soundings of two to
nine fathoms between them. On either side of these islands is deep
water of 40 to 60 fathoms ; but the best passage is considered to be the
western one.
At the bottom of Admiralty Inlet, in the East Channel, there is a
small bay, named Commencement Bay, which affords good temporary
anchorage, and a supply of wood and water. A rivulet empties into it,
named by the Indians, Puyallup, at the entrance to which there is a delta,
but none of the branches into which it is divided are large enough for a
boat. The Indians in the vicinity are described as being very filthy.
PUGET SOUND.— At two miles from the south end of Vashon Island
is the entrance to the Narrows, a narrow channel four and a half miles
long, connecting Admiralty Inlet with Puget Sound. The banks on
either side are very lofty, and have deep water close-to.
Puget Sound is very extensive, and contains many islets and inlets. Its
shores are very fertile, and, enjoying a fine climate, it is likely in future
years to be of considerable importance. Throughout its extent there is
deep water, and but few if any dangers besides what show.
Puget Sound was visited in 1841 by Commander Wilkes, who thus
describes the narrows, when entering the sound : — " We had great diffi-
culty in getting beyond the reach of the eddy winds occasioned by the
liigh banks. The scenery about this pass becomes very fine ; on all sides
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 167
are high projecting bluffs of sandstone, rising almost perpendicularly from
the water, with a great variety of shrubs along their base. The tide
which runs through the Narrows with great velocity, causes many eddies
and whirlpools, through which a ship is carried with extraordinary rapi-
dity, while the danger seems to be imminent. The Porpoise succeeded in
entering the Narrows first, and in a few minutes was lost sight of; the
Vincennes entered, and seemed at first to be hurrying to destruction, with
her sails quite aback. We were carried onward wholly by the force of the
tide, and had backed and filled only once before we found ourselves in as
spacious a sound as the one we had just left. This narrow pass seems as
if intended by its natural facilities to afford every means for its perfect
defence."
NISQUALLY. — This is the station of the Puget Sound Company, a com-
pany formed for the purpose of turning to advantage the agricultural
capabilities of the southern part of Puget Sound. Although not osten-
sibly connected with the Hudson's Bay Company, yet it is in reality a
branch of it, the shares being held by its officers, and the servants of
the latter Company being employed in its service. The capital is about
£500,000, divided into shares of £100 each ; the operations of this
Company are consequently extensive. They began by making large
importations of stock from California, and some of the best breeds of
cattle from England, and have now the supplying of all the forts and sta-
tions of the Hudson's Bay Company on the west side of the American
continent ; the Russian ports are also supplied by it with grain, butter,
and cheese, in considerable quantities.
The country in the vicinity of Nisqually presents an inviting aspect,
and, with the exception of some bluffs, is undulating, and covered with
trees of the pine, white-oak, and arbutus kind. The soil of this forest-
land is a thin brown stratum of sandy vegetable earth, with a sub-soil of
clay and gravel ; the latter having the appearance of being water-worn.
These are succeeded by the tract of prairie-lands in the immediate vici-
nity of the station, which are valuable as pasture-lands for flocks of sheep
and dairy-cows. These prairies have a very extensive range in a south-
east direction, and are connected with the valley of the Cowlitz, on the
south, towards the Cascade Mountains ; over them in various parts are
strips of forests. "Within this district are numerous ponds or lakes,
surrounded by rich meadow-land, which latter furnishes luxuriant crops
of nourishing herbage. No part of Oregon is better adapted for dairy
purposes than this ; and wheat, rye, barley, oats, &c., come to per-
fection.
Nisqually is about nine miles from the Narrows. The anchorage off it
is very contracted, in consequence of the rapid shelving of the bank, which
soon drops off into deep water, so that only a few vessels can be accom-
168 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
modated. The shore rises abruptly to a height of about 200 feet, and
on the top of the ascent is an extended plain, covered with pine, oak, and
ash trees, scattered here and there, so as to give the plain a park-like
appearance. The hill side is mounted by a well-constructed road of easy
ascent. From the summit of the road the view is beautiful over the
sound and its many islands, with Mount Olympus covered with snow
for back-ground. Fort Nisqually, with its outbuildings and enclosure,
stands back about half a mile from the edge of the table-land. It is con-
structed of pickets, enclosing a space of about 200 feet square, with a
bastion at each corner. Within this enclosure are the agent's stores, and
about half a dozen houses, built of logs and roofed with bark. Its locality
is considered to be badly chosen, on account of the difficulty of obtaining
water, which has to be brought a distance of nearly a mile.
In the garden at Nisqually, on the 12th of May, 1814, peas were a foot
high ; strawberries and gooseberries in full bloom, and some of the former
nearly ripe, with salad that had gone to seed, three feet high and very
thrifty.
The hill at Nisqually is an insuperable objection to the place ever be-
coming a deposit for merchandize, as it would very much increase the
labour and expense of transportation. Water, however, can be obtained
for vessels with great ease, from a small stream that flows in abreast of the
anchorage. The harbour is also exposed to the south-west winds.
Better sites than Nisqually, for the location of a town, are to be found
in this neighbourhood. There is one, in particular, just within Kitron
Island, about two and a half miles north of Nisqually anchorage, where
the shore has a considerable indentation, and, although the water is deep,
vessels would be partially protected from the S.W., S.E., and N.W. winds,
which blow with great violence, and also from any sea. Water can be
obtained with as much facility, and the hill is not so precipitous.
Commander Wilkes says : — " The spring tides were found to be 18 feet,
those of the neaps 12 feet. High water, on the days of full and change,
at 6h. 10m. P.M. During the whole of our stay there was found to be a
great discrepancy between the day and night tides, the latter not rising
as high as the former by two feet.
The country in the vicinity is thought to be remarkably healthy, and
on all these salt-water inlets, the winter is represented to be mild, and
but of short duration. The mean temperature, six feet under ground,
during our stay at the observatory, from the 20th of May till the 14th of
July, was found to be 58'5°. I was not fully satisfied that this record
gave correct results for the mean temperature of the climate, although
frosts do not penetrate the ground ; for, by the same manner of trying it,
and under almost the same circumstances, at Astoria, we obtained only
54°, although the place is a degree to the south of Nisqually. At Nis-
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 169
qually the greatest range of temperature was found to be 55°, the lowest,
37°; and the mean, during the same period, 63*87°: the barometer stand-
ing at 29-970 in.
The Indians round Nisqually are few in number, and the whole tribe
does not amount to 200, including men, women, and children. They be-
long to the tribes who flatten their heads, and are represented as vicious,
and exceedingly lazy, sleeping all day, and sitting up all night to gamble.
So strong is the latter propensity among all these tribes, that it is said,
that after parting with all their moveable property, they will go so far as
to stake their wives and children, and lastly even themselves for years
of slavery.
CASE INLET. — In the western part of Puget Sound are a number of
inlets, the principal and largest of which is Case Inlet. It has a north-
westerly direction, and runs to within two miles of Hood's Canal, a com-
munication with which might easily be made. Between the nearest points
of junction is a large pond, named Kellim or Kellmsu Lake. In Case
Inlet are several large islands.
MOUNT RAINIER, &c. — From Puget Sound the high lands in the interior
are distinctly visible ; of these, the elevation of Mount Rainier has been
determined to be 12,330 feet. The white summits of Mounts St. Helen's
and Hood are very conspicuous, and resemble each other closely, appear-
ing from some points of view as perfect cones. Mount Rainier is at all
times a very striking object from the prairies about Nisqually, rising, as
it does, almost imperceptibly from the plain, with a gradual slope, until
the snow-line is reached, when the ascent becomes more precipitous.
Since 1845 the craters on the tops of Mounts Rainier and St. Helen's have
been in a state of activity. It is said that these mountains have never yet
been ascended.
HOOD'S CANAL. — The entrance to Hood's Canal is on the western
side of Foulweather Bluff, the point of land separating it from Admiralty
Inlet, and lies in latitute about 47° 56' N. The canal extends for a dis-
tance of nearly 40 miles, in a S.S. W. direction, and then turns to the N.E.
for 10 miles, approaching Case Inlet in Puget Sound, as before stated.
The average width of the canal is two miles, and in it are the good
harbours of Ports Ludlow, Gamble, Suquamish, Scabock, and Daboq, of
all which surveys have been made.
The banks of Hood's Canal, as far as Tskutska or Hazel Point, do not
exceed 100 feet in height, and are formed of stratified clay, with a light
gravelly soil above it, thickly covered with a species of pine. This is the
character of the eastern shore for its whole extent ; but the west and north
shores above this point become more bold and rocky, with a deeper and
richer soil, formed by the alluvial deposits from the Mount Olympus
range.
170 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
Throughout the whole extent of Hood's Canal there is deep water of
40 to 50 and 60 fathoms, gradually decreasing in depth towards its extre-
mity. It is in general too deep for anchoring; yet there are a few good
harbours. The first harbour is on the western side, opposite Foulweather
Bluff, and is named Port Ludlow ; it is about one and a half mile in
extent, and may afford occasional shelter. At three and a half miles
farther up the inlet, on the same side, is what Vancouver at first supposed
to be a high round island, but he afterwards found it attached to the main
by a low neck which was partly sandy, but principally occupied by a
salt-water swamp. Port Gamble lies on the opposite side of the canal,
and has a narrow entrance between the kelp, which runs in two and
a quarter miles, in a southerly direction. The canal hereabout runs
S.W. \ S., 14 miles, and is generally about one and a half mile wide ; and
in a south-westerly direction from the above island is situated Suquamish
Harbour, off which lies a dry sand-bank. So scarce is the water in this
part of the country, that no streams can be found, with the exception of a
few falling into the small harbour formed by the before-mentioned island
or peninsula. Commander Wilkes found that Hood's Canal did not termi-
nate where Vancouver ended his survey, but ran for about 10 miles in a
north and easterly direction, and approached within two and a half miles
of Puget Sound, the land in the intermediate space being hilly and rough.
Black Creek is a large inlet lying at the south extreme of Hood's Canal,
which the Indians use in communicating with the Chickeeles and Colum-
bia Rivers. Before reaching the southern end of the Canal, the rocky
shore of the west side, near Mount Olympus, gradually slopes into low
land, with a thickly-wooded and good soil. At the extreme end of the
canal there is also a wide creek, which has an extensive mud-flat at its
mouth. This is the case with all the rivers that empty into these
waters.
In the small harbours in Hood's Canal there is plenty of water, and
in some of the streams there is sufficient power to turn mills. Along
the banks of the canal there is not a very great extent of country
adapted for cultivation.- The climate is very similar to that at Nis-
qually.
The shores in the southern part of the first reach of Hood's Canal
exhibit by no means the same luxuriant appearance that prevails to the
northward, being nearly destitute of open verdant spots, and alternately
composed of sandy or rocky cliffs, falling abruptly into the sea, or termi-
nating on a beach ; whilst in some places the even land extends from the
water side, and with little or no elevation. The low projecting points
cause the coast to be somewhat indented with small bays, where, near
the shore, are soundings of 5 to 12 fathoms. Vancouver observes that
although the canal is only two miles wide, yet he could obtain no bottom
THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 171
with a line 110 fathoms long. In Commander Wilkes's chart, the depth
appears nowhere to exceed 62 fathoms, so that Vancouver's inability to
reach the ground may perhaps be ascribed to the effects of a strong
current.
In lat. 47° 41' N. is Hazel Point, so named from the number of hazel-
trees growing on it, which divides the canal into two branches, one
taking a direction nearly true North, and the other running to the S.W.
That running to the northward has an extent of about nine miles, and
contains Dahap and Colseed Inlets ; while the southern inlet is the main
body of the canal. Just opposite Hazel Point is Hahamish Harbour,
which is formed on the west side by Seabeck Island ; and due North
from Seabeck Island, on the west side of the canal, is Sylopish Rock,
situated dose to the shore.
Vancouver observes in sailing up Hood's Canal: — " To the westward
and north-westward lay a range of snowy mountains, which gradually
descended in a southern direction, whilst the summit of the eastern
range now and then appearing seemed to give bounds to this low
country on that side. Between the S.E. and S.W. a country of a very
moderate height seemed to extend as far as the eye could reach ; and,
from its eminences and vallies, there was reason to believe that this
inlet continued to meander a very considerable distance, which made me
much regret that we were not provided for a longer excursion. Yet,
having proceeded thus far, I resolved to continue our researches, though
at the expense of a little hunger, until the inlet should either terminate,
or so extensively open, as to render it expedient that the vessels should
be brought up ; which would be a very tedious and disagreeable opera-
tion, in consequence of the narrowness of the channel, and the great
depth of the water. Soundings in some places only could be gained
close to the shore ; and in the middle no bottom had anywhere been
found with 100 fathoms of line, although the shores were in general
low, and not half a league asunder."
WHIDBEY ISLAND.— This is a long crooked shaped island, lying
at the entrance of Admiralty Inlet, and forming for a considerable
extent its eastern shore. It is about 33 miles long, and so irregular is-
its outline, that in some places it is not more than a mile broad. The
soil of the island is represented to be good, and the timber to be excel-
lent, and it is said that there are also several open plains ready for the
plough. On the island there are many small villages, and the inhabi-
tants, which are of the Sachet tribe, are more numerous than_in other
parts of Fuca Strait or Puget Sound.
The channel between Whidbey Island and the main is named Pos-
session Sound. In it there are several places of excellent anchorage, of
which the principal are Ports Gardner and Susan, and Penn Cove. The
172 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
water throughout is in general deep, although not so much so as
Admiralty Inlet.
The western point of Whidbey Island, Partridge Point, is in lat.
48° 13' N. and long. 122° 45' W. It forms the eastern point of entrance
to Admiralty Inlet, and is a high white sandy cliff, having a verdant
lawn on either side of it. Vancouver says : — " When passing at the
distance of about a mile from this point, we very suddenly came on a
small space of 10 fathoms water, but immediately increased our depth
to 20 and 30 fathoms. After advancing a few miles along the eastern
shore of the gulf, we found no effect either from the ebb or flood tide,
and the wind being light and variable from the northward, at three
o'clock in the afternoon we were obliged to anchor in 20 fathoms water,
sandy bottom."
On the west side of Whidbey Island, immediately opposite Port
Townsend in Admiralty Inlet, is an open bay, named Admiralty Bay,
in which are soundings of 20 to 8 fathoms. It is about two miles
in extent, and will occasionally afford shelter from northerly winds,
BONILLA ISLAND. — This is a small low sandy island, lying nearly
seven miles to the north-westward of Partridge Point. At its western
end is a low cliff, above which are some dwarf trees. Some rocks lie
on its western side, at nearly three-quarters of a mile from the shore ;
and the eastern side of the island is formed by a very narrow low spit of
land, nearly level with the water. From this island the remarkable
high snow-capped mountains, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier bear,
the former N. 63° E., and the latter S. 27° E. To the southward of
these are visible two other very lofty round snowy mountains, lying
apparently in the same north and south direction, or nearly so. They
appear to be covered with perpetual snow as low down as can be seen,
and seem as if they rose from an extensive plain of low country.
FIDALGO ISLAND. — This is an island about six miles in extent,
separated from the northern end of Whidbey Island by a narrow and
dangerous passage, named Deception Passage. In nearly the centre of
the island is a lofty hill, named Mount Erie ; and on the western side
of the island are two smaller islands and rocks, named Burrows and
Allan Islands. Fidalgo Island is nearly connected to the main by low
marshy land. Deception Passage communicates with Possession Sound,
and is a narrow intricate channel, which, for a considerable distance, is
not 40 yards in width, and abounds with rocks above and beneath the
surface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the great
rapidity and irregularity of the tide, render the passage navigable only
for boats or vessels of very small burden.
The country about Fidalgo Island presents a very different aspect to
that further southward. The shores are composed of steep rugged rocks,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 173
whose surface varies considerably in respect to height, and exhibits
little more than the barren rock, which in some places produces a little
herbage of a dull colour, with a few dwarf trees.
POSSESSION SOUND.— This is the extensive sound between
Whidbey Island and the main, and its principal and indeed only
navigable entrance for ships is from Admiralty Inlet, between the south
end of the island and the main shore, in lat 47° 54' N. On the eastern
shore, near the entrance, is the outlet of the Sinahormis River; off which
is a small high island, lying in the middle of the sound, which has 12 to
20 fathoms close-to all round it. The shores of the sound are in
general regular, and of but moderate elevation, and Vancouver
observes : — " We found the shores of the inlet to be straight, compact,
and about two miles apart. In several places we attempted to land near
the upper end, but found ourselves as often repulsed by a flat sandy
shoal, which extended directly across. The land there seemed of a
swampy nature, was thinly wooded, and through it was the appearance
of a shallow rivulet falling into the sea; farther back it was more
elevated, and the surrounding country being covered with timber, made
us conclude that it was fertile."
At about nine miles within the entrance of Possession Sound is Allan
Point, the southern extremity of Camano Island. This island is nearly
14 miles long, and its upper part is joined to the shore by a tract of
swampy land, through which a small stream flows ; behind this the
country is more elevated, and covered with timber. On the east side
of Camano Island is Port Susan, which extends 11 miles to the north-
westward, and has deep water soundings all over it, excepting at its
head, where is the swampy land just noticed, which is fronted by a
quantity of kelp.
On the eastern side of the entrance of this port is a small bay, into
which flow two excellent streams, but so nearly on a level with the sea,
that Vancouver could procure water only at low tide, or at some
distance up the brook, which latter was easily effected, as the boats
could go up as far as where the fresh water fell from the elevated
land.
Port Gardner is on the west side of Camano Island, and is merely a
reach of Possession Sound ; in it there is deep water of 30 fathoms, and
good shelter from all winds. In the western part of the port there is
a deep bay, extending into Whidbey Island about five miles, the shores
of which appear to be clean, excepting some rocks off the eastern shore,
at the entrance. From Port Gardner the trend of the sound is towards
the N.W., about eight miles, to Penn Cove.
Penn Cove is an inlet on the east side of Whidbey Island. It is a
very excellent and commodious harbour, and has regular soundings of
174 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
10 to 20 fathoms, good holding-ground. The extent of the cove is
about five miles, and when within there is shelter from all winds. The
head of the cove is not more than a mile from Partridge Point, the
western extremity of the island, so that the island is here nearly
divided. On each point of the harbour Vancouver found, in 1792, a
deserted village.
From Penn Cove, Possession Sound runs to the northward about
eight miles, and has a very contracted channel, although deep enough
for vessels. From the eastern shore an extensive flat runs out, nearly
over to Whidbey Island, and narrows the channel to the width of about
three-quarters of a mile ; on this flat there are several islets and rocks.
In the northern part of the Sound is the entrance to Deception
Passage ; and between Fidalgo Island and the main is a narrow tortuous
channel over the marshes, leading into Bellingham Bay, which is fit
only for boats.
Vancouver says of Penn Cove, in 1792: — " The surrounding country,
for several miles, in most points of view, presented a delightful pros-
pect, consisting chiefly of various meadows, elegantly adorned with
clumps of trees ; amongst which the oak bore a very considerable pro-
portion, in size from four to six feet in circumference. In these
beautiful pastures, bordering on an expansive sheet of water, the deer
were seen playing about in great numbers. Nature had here provided
the well-stocked park, and wanted only the assistance of art to constitute
that assemblage of surface which is so much sought in other countries,
and only to be acquired by an immoderate expense in manual labour.
The soil principally consisted of a rich black vegetable mould, lying on
a sandy or clayey substratum ; the grass, of an excellent quality, grew
to the height of three feet, and the ferns, which, in the sandy soils,
occupied the clear spots, were nearly twice as high. The country
in the vicinity of this branch of the sea is, according to Mr. Whidbey's
representation, the finest we had yet met with, notwithstanding the
very pleasing appearance of many others ; its natural productions were
luxuriant in the highest degree, and it was, by no means ill supplied
with streams of fresh water. The number of its inhabitants he esti-
mated at about six hundred, which I suppose would exceed the total of
all the natives we had before seen ; the other parts of the sound did not
appear by any means so populous, as we had been visited by one small
canoe only, in which were five of the natives, who civilly furnished us
with some small fish. The character and appearance of their several
tribes here seen did not seem to differ in any material respect from each
other, or from those with which we had already met.
In a bay just to the westward of the north point of the entrance to
Possession Sound, there is a -shoal at a short distance from the shore.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 175
It shows itself above water, and is easily discovered by the soundings
gradually decreasing to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, so that it cannot be con-
sidered as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay.
HARO AND ROSARIO STRAITS.— Between the east end of
Vancouver's Island and the main, there is an extensive group of islands,
the larger of which is named San Juan and Lopez Islands. They have
not yet been closely examined, and we have but little information
respecting them, but they are known to contain some well sheltered
anchorages. The easternmost island, named Lopez Island, is nearly 20
miles in extent, and off its south-east point, which is low and rocky, is
a dangerous sunken rock, visible only at low water ; there is also a
dangerous cluster of small rocks about two miles further to the north-
ward, some of which are always above the water.
The strait separating Vancouver's Island from San Juan and Lopez
Islands is named Haro Strait. It is about six miles wide, and has deep
water in it. Near its northern extremity are a number of small islands.
Rosario Strait is between Lopez Island and the shore ; it has also deep
water in it, and scattered over its surface are a number of islands. These
straits form the communication between Fuca Strait and the Gulf of
Georgia, which is an extensive sound separating Vancouver's Island from
the main.
At about eight miles within the south entrance of Rosario Strait is
Cypress Island, an island four miles in extent, so named by Vancouver
on account of the number of cypress-trees growing on it. On the west
side of the island is Strawberry Bay, a bay of small extent, and not very
deep ; but in which there is good anchorage on a sandy bottom. When at
anchor in 16 fathoms, fine sand, the south point of the bay bears S. 40° E. ;
a small islet forming nearly the north point of the bay, and round which
there is a good clear passage, West ; and the bottom of the bay, East,
distant three-quarters of a mile. This situation, though very commodious
in respect to the shore, is greatly exposed to the wind and sea in a S.S.E.
direction.
Strawberry Bay was so named by Mr. Broughton, from the quantity
of strawberries growing there. The anchorage is good and secure, al-
though somewhat exposed ; yet, in fair weather, wood and water may
easily be procured. Cypress Island is principally composed of high rocky
mountains, and steep perpendicular cliffs, which, in the centre of Straw-
berry Bay, fall a little back, and the space between the foot of the moun-
tains and the sea-side is occupied by low marshy land, through which are
several small runs of most excellent water, that find their way into the
bay by oozing through the beach. The rise and fall of the tide are incon-
siderable, though the stream when Vancouver visited the bay was rapid,
176 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
the ebb coming from the eastward. It is high water at 2h. 37m. after
the moon passes the meridian.
On the east side of Cypress Island are some islands, the principal of
which are Sinclair and Guemes Islands ; these face Bellingham and Pa-
dilla Bays on the main land.
BELLINGHAM and PADILLA BAYS. — These bays are situated within
Cypress and Guemes Islands, and are separated from each other by a nar-
row straggling point, named William Point. There is a communication
between Possession Sound and Padilla Bay, but it is too shallow and tor-
tuous for anything but boats. Throughout Bellingham Bay there is good
and secure anchorage, in a depth of eight to four fathoms. Opposite to
its north point of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some de-
tached rocks lying off it ; hereabout is a stream of excellent water. To
the north and south of these high and rocky shores, the shores are less
elevated, especially to the northward, where some verdant lawns are seen.
The bay extends as far north as lat. 48° 40', but the land behind it is in-
convenient to communicate with, on account of an extensive flat which
runs a considerable distance off, particularly in the southern part of the
bay.
To the northward of Bellingham Bay is Gaston Bay, which extends as
far north as 48° 47' N., and is formed to the westward by a long strag-
gling peninsula, named Point Francis. It is about five miles in extent,
and joins Bellingham Bay. Of its capabilities and advantages we have no
information.
BIRCH BAY. — At about 10 miles to the northward of Point Francis is
a small bay, named, in consequence of the abundance of black birch found
growing there, Birch Bay. The south-east part of this bay is formed by
nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, from whence the higher woodland coun-
try retires a considerable distance to the north-eastward, leaving an exten-
sive space of low land between it and the sea, separated from the high
ground by a rivulet of fresh water, which discharges itself at the bottom,
or north extremity of the bay. On the low land very luxuriant grass is
produced, with wild roses, gooseberries, and other bushes in abundance.
Here Vancouver anchored in June 1792, and, by the mean result of eleven
meridional altitudes of the sun, determined the latitude to be 48° 53J' N.,
and the variation of the compass, by nineteen sets of azimuths, to be
19° 30' E. The tides were found to be very inconsiderable, but were not
particularly noticed.
Vancouver remarks, when sailing to the northward from Strawberry
Bay : — " We directed our course to the N.W., along what appeared to be
a continuation of the continental shore, formed by low sandy cliffs, rising
from a beach of sand and stones. The country, moderately elevated,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 177
stretched a considerable distance from the N.W. round to the south-east-
ward, before it ascended to join the range of rugged snowy mountains.
This connected barrier, from the base of Mount Baker, still continued
very lofty, and appeared to extend in a direction leading to the westward
of north. The soundings along the shore were regular, from 12 to 25 and
30 fathoms as we approached or increased our distance from the land, which
seldom exceeded two miles : the opposite side of the gulf to the south-
westward, composed of numerous islands, was at the distance of about two
leagues. In the evening we steered for a bay that presented itself, where,
about six o'clock, we anchored in six fathoms water, sandy bottom, at
half a mile from the shore."
The coast to the northward of Birch Bay forms two open bays, of
which the southernmost and smallest has two rocks, lying off its south
point, and extends in a circular form to the eastward, with a shoal of
sand projecting some distance from its shores ; this bay affords good
anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms water. The other bay is much
larger, and extends to the northward. The shoals attached to the shores
of each, and particularly to those of the latter bay, prevent a nearer
access to their heads than four or five miles.
Point Roberts, the western extremity of the previously mentioned bays,
is a low narrow peninsula, the highest part of which, to the south-eastward,
is formed by high white sand-cliffs falling perpendicularly into the sea ;
from whence a shoal extends to the distance of half a mile round it, joining
those of the larger bay. The south-west extremity of the peninsula,
at not more than a mile in an east and west direction from the former
extremity, is a low projecting sandy point, with 10 to 7 fathoms water
within a few yards of it.
From Point Roberts the Gulf of Georgia runs to the north-westward,
and separates Vancouver Island from the main land. It is but little
visited, there being no trade or traffic to occasion vessels to frequent this
part, consequently it is not necessary for us to enlarge upon it farther.
Suffice it to say, that as you advance northward the shores rise to what
may be considered elevated land, and that the forests are composed of a
less variety of trees, and that their growth is less luxuriant. The trees
most commonly seen are pines of different sorts, the arbor vitae, the orien-
tal arbutus, and, probably, some species of cypress. On the islands a few
dwarf oaks are met with, and in the vicinity of Birch Bay, the Weymouth
pine, Canadian elder, and black birch are plentiful.
N
178 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
VANCOUVER ISLAND.
VANCOUVER, named also Nootka or Quadra Island, is a large island
close on the coast of North America, to the north of the Columbia River,
and crossed by the 50° N. latitude. It is separated from the main land
by Queen Charlotte's Sound, the Gulf of Georgia, and the Strait of Fuca.
It is about 250 miles long, and 70 broad, at its widest part, and contains
30,000 square miles 5 is rocky and elevated, but no part of it attains to
any great height.
The winter in Vancouver Island is generally very stormy, with heavy
rain in the months of November and December, the south-east wind then
prevailing. There is some frost and snow about the low land in the be-
ginning of January, which is seldom of long duration, and never inter-
rupts agricultural operations. Early in February, vegetation begins to
advance, and about the commencement of March, everything assumes the
beautiful hue of spring. April and May bring in alternate warm showers
of rain and sunshine, and the heat becomes extremely oppressive in the
months of June and July. In August and the beginning of September,
vegetation dries up, from the drought of summer, and is then easily ignited,
which is generally done by the natives when passing along the coast in
their canoes. The weather being then very foggy, still, and close, the
atmosphere becomes so much darkened by the fog and smoke combined,
that the sun occasionally appears to us of a deep red colour, even at noon-
day. In the month of October the rainy season sets in ; the soil being
then moist, and the weather not very cold, the grass grows vigorously.
The pasturage for the cattle is then better than during the two preceding
months.
The fur-bearing animals generally hunted on the island are beaver, bot
black and grizzly, raccoon, minks, land-otter, &c., and the sea-otter
hunted about Nitinat and Scott's Islands. The elk and deer are said to
abundant in the interior of the island. The fish generally taken by tl
natives in the vicinity are as follows, viz. : — halibut, flounders, skat
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. * 179
rock cod, sardine, salmon, trout, and several varieties of the herring
species.
From the month of September to the month of April following is a
very favourable time to obtain supplies of vegetables at this place and
Nisqually. A ship of war of 500 men could always depend upon receiv-
ing supplies of flour, beef, and pork, at this place and Nisqually ; and,
during the time specified in the preceding remark, upon receiving supplies
of potatoes and other vegetables.
Of the interior of Vancouver Island but little is known, no exploring
party having as yet penetrated very far into the country. Along the shores
there are many excellent harbours, particularly on the western coast,
where the shore line is much indented. In the northern part of the island
it is said that coal is very abundant, and also of good quality, so that it is
probable that it may ultimately become of considerable importance.
Along the northern shores salmon is represented to be very plentiful.
The principal settlements on Vancouver Island are Victoria Harbour in
the south, and Beaver Harbour in the north part of the island ; of these
Victoria Harbour is the principal. They are both in the possession of the
Hudson's Bay Company, whose charter for the colonisation of this part
of the American continent bears date January 13th, 1849.
The following, from recent despatches from the island, will be interest-
ing : — " The climate is found to be agreeable, and, even in the northern
part, considerably milder than that of England. For settlers, the facilities,
both as regards the raising of produce and the erection of works and dwel-
lings, appear to be greater than had been anticipated. Game is every-
where abundant, and is calculated to prove an important item in econo-
mising domestic expenditure, while, in addition to wild fowl on the waters,
there are many valuable fisheries, besides a great frequency of oyster-beds.
Deer are often met, and there are also some black bears5 which, however,
are considered harmless. One of the most remarkable peculiarities of the
island is the great number of inlets, or arms of the sea, which, being deep
and narrow, and penetrating a considerable distance inland, furnish in
many instances, from the great rush of water in and out, an important
and permanent motive power. The natural features of the country are
described as being very beautiful, owing to its lakes, hills, woodlands, and
occasional patches of prairie. The oak is abundant, frequently growing
in glades, with park-like regularity. There is also a cypress which grows
to a large size, and is particularly valuable for building purposes. The
pines are of three sorts, and are found 160 feet in height, and from 12 to
16 feet in circumference. One description is extremely plentiful, and
possesses superior qualities for ship-building purposes. Varieties of
maple and other trees are likewise common, and the valuable hemp known
as the urtica canabina grows wild and luxuriantly in the woods. Artifi-
180 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
cial grasses, it is believed, might be cultivated with great advantage, and
seeds of every description have been sent out. The soil generally is a dark
vegetable mould, averaging 18 inches in depth, and unusually fertile.
Contrary to what is seen in England, the best lands are mostly those where
pine-trees grow. The flora of the island is much the same as that of
Great Britain. With regard to its mineral resources, the principal rocks
are stated to be all of an excellent kind for building materials, both as
respects appearance and durability. It is also considered that the geolo-
gical features of the districts thus far surveyed are all such as strongly to
favour the anticipation that gold may be found throughout an extensive
range. There is an abundance of feltspar and quartz, specimens of which
have been transmitted to London for examination. Ironstone is likewise
found in several places, but its value has not yet been determined. The
quantity of iron is sufficient to affect the compass considerably, and cap-
tains of vessels who have visited the island are of opinion that this disturb-
ance is unusually great along its shores. The native Indians behave well,
and a small party of settlers penetrating into the interior with a canoe
met a number of them, by whom they were warmly welcomed. They
described a large lake which no white man had ever yet seen, but which
the explorers now visited, and found to be about 20 or 30 miles in length,
and from two to three miles in breadth."
The southern shore of Vancouver Island having been described in the
account of Fuca Strait, it now only remains for us to add the little infor-
mation we possess of the western shore.
NITINAT SOUND.— The entrance to this sound lies 10 miles to the
N.W. of Bonilla Point, the northern point of Fuca Strait. It is an inlet of
about 12 miles in extent, filled with islands, and supposed in many parts
to contain good anchorage ; but of its capabilities we have no information .
The north-western point is named Terron Point, and its south-eastern,
Carrasco Point ; under the former is a channel, named on the charts
Cayuela Entrance. This sound also bears the name of Berkeley Sound.
The land between Nitinat and Clayoquot Sounds, in the vicinity of the
coast, may be considered as rather low, forming alternately rocky cliffs
and sandy beaches, with many detached rocks lying at a little distance from
the shore, which land, when viewed from a distance, bears the appearance
of being well wooded. The surface of this low country is very uneven, and
at a short distance from the sea meets a compact body of rugged dreary
mountains, whose summits are covered with snow, which, says Van-
cover, extended on many, though not on all of them, a considerable way
down, and impressed us with no great opinion of their fertility.
CLAYOUUOT SOUND.— This sound lies in lat. 49° 10' N., and is
very extensive. Over its surface are many large islands, particularly one
named Flores, which is nearly 15 miles long ; and in the eastern part of the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 181
sound is an extensive arm of the sea running into the land in a northerly
direction about 25 miles, which is named Brazo de Tofino. Of the
advantages of this sound we have no information, but in its southern part,
a little within the entrance, there is said to be a moderately good harbour,
named Port Cox.
Cape Estevan, in lat. 49° 25' N. is the southern point of entrance to
Nootka Sound. Off it a great many sunken rocks extend some distance.
In sailing to the southward from this, Vancouver had soundings of 90 and
4*0 fathoms at the distance of 8 to 10 miles from the land.
NOOTKA SOUND is an extensive inlet, formed, on the western side,
by the large island of Nootka, which is 12 miles in extent, and separated
from the shore by a narrow channel, named Tasis Canal. Through this
canal it is probable that ships may pass, and so, leaving Nootka Sound,
gain access to the ocean by Esperanza Inlet. This sound was formerly of
considerable importance, but of late years has much declined.
The only account we have of Nootka Sound is that of Captain Cook,
who visited it in 1778. " On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it
with the name of King George's Sound ; but I afterwards found that it is
called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner
of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 49° 33' N., and in the longitude of
126° 36' E. The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breaker's
Point to the entrance of the sound, is covered with a chain of sunken
rocks, that seemed to extend some distance from the shore ; and, near the
sound are some islands and rocks above water.
We entered this sound between two rocky points that lie E.S.E. and
W.N.W. from each other, distant between three and four miles. Within
these points the sound widens considerably, and extends into the north-
ward four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches towards its
bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity to ascertain.
But, from the circumstance of finding that the water freshened when our
boats crossed their entrance, it is probable that they had almost reached its
utmost limits. And this probability is increased by the hills that bounded
it towards the land being covered with thick snow, when those towards the
sea, or where we lay, had not a speck remaining on them, though in gene-
ral they were much higher. In the middle of the sound are a number of
islands of various sizes The depth of water in the middle of the
sound, and even close home to some parts of the shore, is from 47 to 90
fathoms, and perhaps more. The harbours and anchoring-places within
its circuit are numerous ; but we had no time to survey them. The cove
in which our ships lay is on the east side of the sound, and on the east
side of the largest of the islands. It is covered from the sea, but has
little else to recommend it, being exposed to the S.E. winds, which we
182 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
found to blow with great violence ; and the devastation they make some-
times was apparent in many places.
The land bordering upon the sea- coast is of middling height and level, but
within the sound, it rises almost everywhere into steep hills, which agree
in their general formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with some
sharp, though not very prominent ridges on their sides. Some of these
hills may be reckoned high, while others of them are of very moderate
height; but even the highest are entirely covered to their tops with the
thick woods, as well as every flat part toward the sea. There are some-
times spots upon the sides of some of the hills which are bare ; but they
are few in comparison of the whole, though they sufficiently point out the
general rocky disposition of the hills. Properly speaking, they have no
soil upon them, except a kind of compost, produced from rotten mosses
and trees, of the depth of two feet or more. Their formations are there-
fore to be considered as nothing more than stupendous rocks of a whitish
or gray cast when they have been exposed to the weather ; but, being
broken, they appeared to be of a bluish-gray colour, like that universal
sort which was found at Kerguelen's Land. The rocky shores are a con-
tinued mass of this ; and the little coves in the sound have beaches com-
posed of fragments of it, with a few other pebbles. All these coves are
furnished with a great quantity of fallen wood lying on them, which is
carried in by the tide, and with rills of fresh- water sufficient for the use
of a ship, which seem to be supplied entirely from the rains and fogs that
hover about the tops of the hills ; for few springs can be expected in so
rocky a country, and the fresh water found farther up the sound most
probably arose from the melting of the snow, there being no reason to
suspect that any large river falls into the sound, either from strangers
coming down it, or from any other circumstance. The water of these
rills is perfectly clear, and dissolves soap easily. The weather during our
stay (March 29th to April 26th, 1778) corresponded pretty nearly with
that which we had experienced off the coast. That is, when the wind was
anywhere between North and West the weather was fine and clear ; but,
if to the southward of West, hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we
had any experience of it, is infinitely milder than that on the east coast
of America under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the
thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 42°; and very
often in the day it rose to 60°."
FRIENDLY COVE. — This small cove lies on the north-western side of
Nootka Sound, just within the entrance, and is situated at the southern
extremity of Nootka Island. It is not more than three cables' length in
extent, and the depth shoals gradually from six to two and a half fathoms.
When inside, anchorage in six fathoms is afforded under shelter of the
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 183
islands on the south side of the bay, which protect the cove from all
quarters but the east.
This place was visited in 1837 by Sir E. Belcher, who places the prin-
cipal island at the entrance in lat. 49° 34' 59" N., and long. 126° 35' W.
He has observed : — " We anchored in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, the
very interesting point of Cook and Vancouver's operations. At first I
doubted my senses, that so small a space could have occupied so much
type, and until I had examined it myself in my boat, did not think that
it could afford shelter to two vessels. However, by placing one anchor
outside, one well in, and the stream cable to the rocks, the Sulphur be-
came well secure, with the Starling within us. The greatest distance
between any two points does not exceed a quarter of a mile, and mostly
rocky."
At about four or five miles to the northward of Friendly Cove is an
anchoring place, named Mowenna or Marvinas Bay, which is in con-
siderable repute. Although further from the sea than Friendly Cove,
it yet possesses over it several advantages in point of security and accom-
modation. The land in its vicinity continues to be low to a greater
distance than about Friendly Cove, and seems to be composed of less
rocky materials. The extent of this harbour is but small, but being
well protected against all winds, and its distance from the ocean pre-
venting it being much affected by the swell, several vessels might ride
here in perfect security ; and as it has a fair navigable channel out of it
in a southerly direction, vessels can sail from this harbour whenever the
land wind prevails to push them clear of the sound, with infinitely more
ease than from Friendly Cove ; out of which they are first obliged to
warp a considerable distance, and to anchor not only in an inconvenient
depth of water, but on an uneven rocky bottom, in addition to which, in
the event of the wind suddenly setting strongly in from the sea, their
situation becomes by no means pleasant. The departure from Friendly
Cove, although not difficult in the summer season, yet is said to be
subject in winter to great inconvenience, and indeed danger, from the
heavy sea that rolls in stormy weather into the sound, especially during
the S.E. gales, against which, from its vicinity to the ocean, it is not
sufficiently protected. As a military establishment, however, Friendly
Cove is greatly to be preferred to Mowenna, as nothing can pass or re-
pass into the sound unobserved from it.
At about four miles to the E.N.E of Friendly Cove is the entrance to
an extensive inlet of Nootka Sound, named Zuciarte Arm, which is
formed on the north side by a large island. Immediately within the
entrance of this inlet, on the north side, is Resolution Cove, a small place
in which Cook anchored in 1778, and refitted his vessel. Its advantages
are unknown, but as he stayed here some time, it must have been found
184 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
a suitable place. The time of high water on the days of full and change
is 12h. 20m., with a rise of tide of about 8ft. 9in. in the day time, and
in the night time of two feet more.
Proceeding northwards from Nootka Sound, a shoal is marked on the
charts as existing two and a half miles from the land, with Mocuina
Point, the northern point of the sound, bearing East, distant nine miles.
At 15 miles north-west of the entrance of the sound is Ferrer Cove ; and
beyond this about five miles is Esperanza Inlet, the inlet separating
Nootka Island from the main, which has an island, named Catala, at its
mouth, besides several rocks.
WOODY POINT. — From Esperanza Inlet the coast trends round to the
north-westward to Woody Point, in lat. 50° 6' N., and long. 127° 52' W.,
and is but little known. Vancouver, when sailing down the coast from
Woody Point to Nootka, intended examining it, but was prevented by
adverse winds. It appeared from a distance of three or four miles to
contain several openings, apparently coves or harbours. Innumerable
rocky islets and rocks lined the shores, which, on advancing, became
low, but the country behind rose into hills of considerable height,
divided by many valleys ; beyond these it rose to mountains so elevated
that at that season of the year, August, 1792, many patches of snow
were still undissolved.
Woody Point is an extensive projecting promontory, and of con-
siderable height. About half a league westward of it is a small rocky
islet, and another larger one lies N. 28° W., about a league from the
north part of the point.
Immediately to the northward of Woody Point is an extensive inlet,
named Port Brookes, in which are some islets and rocks. From hence
to Cape Scott, the coast, when viewed from a distance of three or four
leagues, appears to be much broken, and to form many inlets, coves,
and harbours. Under Cape Scott is an extensive inlet, named Josef
Bay, which probably affords good anchorage. It appears to consist
properly of two bays, but has not yet undergone an examination.
Off its north point of entrance are two small islets.
CAPE SCOTT, the north-west point of Vancouver Island, is in lat.
50° 47' N., and long, 128° 27' W. It is a low hummock, joined to the
main land by a narrow isthmus, and off it about three and a half miles
are some islands, the channel between being clear. There are also a few
breakers at a small distance from the cape, in a direction of S. 27° E.,
about seven miles. In the vicinity of the cape the land is composed of
hills of moderate height, although to the south-eastward it soon becomes
very mountainous.
The islands off Cape Scott consist of a group of three small and
almost barren islets, with many rocks and breakers about them. West
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 185
from the westernmost of them, a ledge of rocks extends about two miles,
and south of it is another, about a league distant. The westernmost
islands and rocks are named Scott's Islets, the middle, Lanz Islets,
and the islet nearest Cape Scott, Cox Island. The outermost of
the group, the Scott's Islets, are in lat. 50° 52' N., and long.
129° 5' W.
Vancouver says of the soundings in this part : — " We saw Scott's
Islets bearing S. 22° E., about seven leagues distant. The wind during
the day was light and variable, though attended with fair weather ; in
the evening it seemed fixed at S.S.W. ; when, not being able to pass to
windward of Scott's Islets, our course was directed to the north of them,
towards Cape Scott, having soundings and a soft bottom at the depth
of 80 and 90 fathoms, until about nine in the evening, when the water
suddenly shoaled from 60 to 17 fathoms, and the bottom became rocky.
On this we instantly stood back to the westward, lest we should approach
some danger, but we did not perceive either breakers or shoals, although
the night was still and clear. These soundings were from the western-
most of Scott's Islets, N. 18° E., about five leagues; from this circum-
stance, and from the distant rocks and shoals we saw extending
from the shores of Calvert's Island, it is highly necessary that the
space between Calvert's and Scott's Islands should be navigated with
great caution."
In the northern part of Vancouver Island, within Queen Charlotte
Sound, is Beaver Harbour, in the vicinity of which, coal of an excellent
quality has recently been discovered. It is represented to afford
moderately good anchorage, but further than this we have no infor-
mation. Since the discovery of the coal, many ships have touched
at it.
186 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
ISLANDS AND ROCKS
OFF THE COASTS OF
CENTRAL AMERICA AND CALIFORNIA.
COCOS ISLAND. — This is an island about four miles in extent, the
northern part of which, Chatham Bay, lies in lat. 5° 3%' 57" N., and long.
86" 58' 22" W., according to the determination of Sir Edward Belcher
in 1838. It is of considerable height, particularly the western part, and
when viewed from a distance of six or seven leagues, on a bearing of
N. 73° E. to N. 81°E., its south-west extremity appears to rise abruptly
from the sea, in steep rugged cliffs, to a considerable height, and then
in a more moderate ascent to its most elevated part, which is a hill of
no great size, from whence it descends more uniformly to its northern
extremity, which appears like a detached islet. When viewed from
the northward, opposite the bays, the shores appear to be composed of
broken, perpendicular, rocky precipices, beyond which the surface rises
unevenly to the summit of the island, the whole covered with a thicket
of small trees near the shore, but on the more elevated land in the
interior, with large spreading trees. This island can be seen more than
20 leagues off; but of its interior little is known, except that it is
rocky and mountainous, and probably contains a large lake or sheet of
water, such having been seen by some of the party under Sir E. Belcher.
Its shores have only partially been examined, and principally at the
northern part of the island, where there are two bays containing
moderately good anchorage. Off the coasts are several detached islets
and rocks, which extend some distance, and particularly from the S.W.
part of the island, where they run off fully two miles, and would be
dangerous, if it were not that they are sufficiently high to be seen
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 187
and avoided. The lower parts of these detached islets consist of a belt
of white barren rock to the water's edge, and their tops are generally
covered with trees. The coasts of the island are generally steep perpen-
dicular cliffs, against which the sea breaks with so much violence as to
preclude an attempt to land in any part except in the bays on its
northern side. In many parts of these cliffs are falls of excellent water,
a supply of which, it is said, can easily be procured, as well as cocoa-
nuts, and plenty of wood for fuel.*
Captain Colnett, who visited the island in 1793, says: — " The western
side of the island is the highest, and presents itself in the form of a
round hill. The eastern side appears to be much broken, the land
sloping in most parts abruptly to the sea, but in others presenting bold
and perpendicular cliffs. The island does not appear to possess a spot
where trees can grow that is not covered with them, or some kind of bushy
plant, which, when blended with the barrenness of intervening rocks, pro-
duces a picturesque effect ; while the streams pouring down from their
various fountains to the sea greatly heighten the beauty of the scene.
It is Otaheite on a small scale, but without the advantage of its climate,
or the hospitality of its inhabitants."
Vancouver appears not to have had so favourable an impression of the
island, as Captain Colnett. " This island cannot be considered as having
a pleasant appearance in any one point of view, for although its inland
surface is much diversified by hills and valleys, yet the only low land
of any extent that we were certain it possesses is in the bottoms of the
two bays, each of which forms the extremity of one of these valleys,
bounded by craggy precipices, from the foot of which extends a narrow
strip of low flat land that terminates in a beach at the water side,
resembling more the dreary prospect exhibited at the heads of the
several branches of sea we had so recently explored on the coast of
North West America, than anything else I could compare them to.
Every other part of the shore seemed to be composed of steep, broken
precipices of rock, of which substance the interior of the island was
apparently composed, as the naked cliffs were frequently seen protruding
their barren sides through the thicket, which otherwise covered the
surface of the island. This thicket, so far as we were able to ascertain,
was chiefly composed of a great variety of trees of a moderate size, with
an impenetrable underwood of the vine or supplejack kind, which op-
posed any excursion into the country ; some attempts were, I believe,
made to penetrate there by the water course, but this, from rocky
* This is according to Vancouver j but recent visitors to the island have stated that
all the trees have been cut down.
188 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
precipices and other obstructions, was found to be equally impracticable ;
our knowledge of its productions must consequently be confined to our
observations on the small margin between the woods and the sea shore,
the only part that was accessible to us."
The primary advantage of Cocos Island is the abundant supply of
water which it affords. This abounds in every part, and is to be easily
procured at the stations to which vessels can resort. From its purity
and limpid appearance, and from its being destitute of any colour or
unpleasant taste, either from dead leaves or other decayed matter,
Vancouver was led to infer, although heavy rains had fallen during his
stay in January, 1795, that the larger streams of water have a more
remote and permanent source than accidental showers. The soil in the
immediate vicinity of the streams falling into the bays is of a poor,
loose, sandy nature ; but at a little distance behind the beach, and in
the fissures of the rocks, there is a rich black mould, apparently of great
fertility, and this is probably the case in other parts of the island. All
the vegetable productions of the island grow luxuriantly. On the rocky
cliffs near the sea, where the uneven surface will permit anything to
grow, there is a coarse kind of grass, which affords an excellent retreat
for the sea-fowl, and also a particular kind of tree, something like the
cloth plant of the South Sea Islands, but much larger. Some of these
trees grow to the height of 30 feet, and have a brightish coloured bark,
free from branches to the top, where the leaves fall over, giving the trees
the appearance of umbrellas. Besides these trees there are others in
the interior, occasionally of a considerable size.
CHATHAM BAY. — The north-easternmost anchorage of the island is
named Chatham Bay, from the armed tender accompanying Vancouver.
It is not very large, and off its east and west points are two islets, the
western and larger named Nuez, and the eastern Conic Islet ; these
afford protection from the sea, especially the western islet. The width
of the bay from point to point of the islets is about a mile, in a direction
of S. 52° E., and N. 5£° W. ; and from this line of direction its extent
to the bottom of the bay is also about a mile. The soundings are regular,
of from 12 to 50 fathoms, and vessels may ride very snugly within less
than half a mile of the beach, in about 20 fathoms water, but in a less
depth the bottom does not appear to be so free from rocks. Here
Vancouver anchored, in January, 1794, in 33 fathoms, on a sandy and
gravelly bottom, apparently good holding-ground and free from rocks.
The east point of the bay, which is a small conical islet lying close to the
north-east extremity of the island, bore S. 51° E., half a mile ; the west
point of the bay S. 75° W. ; a steep rocky islet lying off it, from S. 87°
W. to N. 66° W. ; and the watering place at the mouth of a very fine
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 189
stream, emptying itself over a sandy beach S, 13° W., about three-
quarters of a mile. Within this the Chatham also anchored, in 26
fathoms, similar bottom.
Sir Edward Belcher says, that in Chatham Bay a vessel may anchor in
six fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the beach, but the best
anchorage is in 12 fathoms. There a constant draught will be experi-
enced between the openings of the- islets, and a vessel can generally
enjoy the refreshing sea-breezes, and fetch out at once, clear of the
dangers, which are but few.
From the depth of #0 fathoms, the soundings outside of Chatham Bay
soon deepen to 40 and 50 fathoms, the latter at only one and a quarter
mile from the shore. Both this and Wafer Bay afford good protection
from the winds prevailing during the early months of the year ; and from
the abundance of the vegetation growing close to high water mark,
it would seem that neither of them are subject to violent storms, or
heavy seas.
WAFER BAY, — At about a mile to the westward of Chatham Bay is
Wafer Bay, which is more extensive and exposed than it, and its
soundings are neither so regular, nor is the bottom so good. Into this
bay a large stream of fresh water flows, and the sea breaks heavily.
Captain Colnett appears to have preferred this bay to Chatham Bay ; he
says : — " It may be easily known by a small rugged barren rock, about
the size of a large boat, bearing west of the body of the bay about five
or six miles. It lies east and west, and its greatest depth is not two
miles, nor is it one in breadth ; but I would not venture into it in a
vessel of more than 200 tons. Its anchorage is in from 7 to 50 fathoms,
and is nearly sheltered from all winds. This bay is also preferable to
that at the North point, because the shore of the first is steep ; while that
of the latter consists of a beautiful valley and sandy beach, where cocoa
trees appear in greater numbers than I have seen in any other place.
There is also a rivulet of water 18 or 20 feet in breadth, which is supplied
from a basin one mile inland, in which our crew, to avoid the sharks,
went and bathed. Although this bay is so small, it is very convenient,
and as secure as the anchoring places generally are which are not
entirely sheltered. Its principal inconvenience arises from the constant
rains ; as out of the four days we were beating off it, it rained during
three of them, and sometimes with heavy storms of lightning and
thunder. Those on shore experienced an equal amount of wet weather ;
and so thick was the rain, that, for eight hours together, we were not
able to see twice the length of the ship ; but this may not be the case
at all seasons."
Of Wafer Bay it may be said that one of its principal inconveniences
is the heavy rollers, particularly at low water, at which time the flat
190 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
extends out a considerable distance. It is also more subject to calms
than Chatham Bay, and consequently not so easy of ingress and egress ;
and being exposed to westerly winds, watering at all times is difficult,
and at low tide quite impracticable.
The climate was considered by Vancouver to be temperate and
salubrious. The thermometer, in January, 1 795, was usually between
78° and 80°, yet the heat was not- so oppressive as was experienced
further to the northward, and no inconvenience was experienced from
the heavy rains.
The rise and fall of the tides by the shore are very considerable and
regular, twice in the 24 hours, without any apparent stream, and are
not influenced by the currents. The night tides appear to be the
highest, and probably rise 10 feet perpendicularly; but at the time of
the observations, the surf was too high to permit a very correct measure-
ment. The time of high water is about 2h. 10m. after the moon passes
the meridian.
Cocos Island appears to be well provided with sea-fowls ; pigs, also,
were left there by Captain Colnett, which appear to have increased
and multiplied considerably. Fish are abundant, but difficult to catch ;
eels are large and numerous, as also are the turtles, but they appear
shy of coming to the land. It is said that there are a large number
of rats of the white and brown kinds on the island, also land crabs
of a prodigious size, and that goats are in the interior, but keep to the
heights.
MALPELO ISLAND. — The correct position of this island has not
yet been ascertained, but lat. 4° N. and long. 81° 32' W., will not be
far from it. Captain Colnett places it in lat. 4° 20' N., and long.
80° 45' W. It is a high, barren, and perpendicular rock, visible about
20 leagues. A small quantity of green moss, and a few dwarf bushes
grow in its cracks or gullies, and are the only signs of vegetation it pos-
sesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the whole may extend about
9 or 10 miles in a north and south direction. TKe centre of the
island bears a resemblance from several points of view to the crown of a
head ; and its being barren accounts naturally enough for the name
Malpelo, which the Spaniards have bestowed on it, and which signifies
bald head.
In the vicinity of this island the currents are strong, and have much
the appearance of breakers ; the set appears probably to be to the N.E.
by E., at the rate of two and a half miles an hour.
GALLEGO ISLAND, &c. — Between longitudes 104° and 106° W., and
latitudes 2° and 6° N, there are said to be two islands, bearing the names
of Gallego and Duncan, but their existence requires confirmation ; as
also does one named Passion Island, reported to be in lat. 16° 54' N.,
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 191
and long. 109° W. A writer in the Nautical Magazine for 1848, states
the correct position of the latter to be lat. 17° 11' N., and long. 106° 2V
W., and that it appears from aloft to be high, and peaked in several
places.
CLIPPERTON ROCK.— This rock is in lat. 10° IT N., and long.
109° 10' W., and may be seen four or five leagues off. When seen from
a distance of 10 or 12 miles, it is not unlike a sail, but as you approach
it, it has more the appearance of an immense castle. The colour is very
dark, in fact nearly black. This most dangerous rock and shoal is but
little known, and thought by many not to exist, it becomes, therefore, the
more important to avoid it, and give it as wide a berth as possible. Its
vicinity is generally indicated by the presence of numerous sea-birds —
the white gannet, wide awake, and booby, which are often found as much
as 50 or 60 miles from the rock.
The above position of Clipperton Rock is from the determination of
Sir Edward Belcher, but it has recently been stated that its more correct
position is lat. 10° IS' W N., and long. 109° 7' 30" W. The island is
between seven and eight miles long, and is almost an even height from
one end to the other, being only six or eight feet above the sea-level.
The rock in its highest point is about 150 or 170 feet ; and the width of
the island is about 1700 or 1800 yards. The island is composed of the
whitest sand, and the only appearance of vegetation is one continous fine
brown line, supposed to be of grass or rushes. The rock is conical, un-
equal, and jagged, and at the northern end has a circular hole right
through, about 50 feet from the top. The sea breaks over the whole
extent of the island to windward, and at the north-east and south-west
ends, at different distances from the sand- bank. It has been observed
that, "as the calms are sudden in these latitudes, and the winds
variable (Clipperton being on the edge of the south-east trade-wind), if
a ship is anxious to sight the rock, she should pass to the eastward of it,
as the western side is evidently the windward side ; if it becomes calm
when they are in the neighbourhood, there is less danger when they are
to leeward, the swell will throw them off.
Clipperton is the most naked, solitary danger that imagination can
picture, situated as it is in the midst of the ocean, 600 miles from
Acapulco, and 500 miles from Socorro and Gallego. The sand bank
seems ill able to support the weight of the huge rock, and the rock itself
appears to be sinking from its treacherous foundation. The sight of this
tremendous and distressing danger, and the reflection it calls up of the
awful calamities it has been the cause of, reminds one of the sublime
truth of M. de Lamartine's remark, when he was surveying some of the
ruins of the Hill of Baalbec, that ' Silence is the only language of man,
when what he feels outstrips the ordinary measure of his impressions.'
192 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
There is an association with the ruins in the midst of a desert, and this
solitary rock standing in the midst of the pathless ocean."
In May, 1839, Clipperton Rock was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, and
after mentioning that from a distance of about 15 miles, it presented the
appearance of a brig close hauled, owing to the sun's rays playing on its
nearest face, he proceeds to say : — " The name, Clipperton Rock,
certainly misled us, and had we made the point at night, with a fair wind,
would, almost inevitably, have severely damaged or destroyed both
vessels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the northward ;
merely assuming it to be a solitary rock.
Nothing in this name would lead a seaman to imagine a high rock,
placed on the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, three miles long
north and south, by the same east and west.
Its description should stand thus : — A very dangerous low lagoon
island, destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern edge, which
may be mistaken for a sail.
This rock can be seen 15 miles. In thick weather the low coral belt,
which appears like sand, will not be distinguished until close to it. The
breakers on the eastern side of it do not afford sufficient warning for a
vessel to trim or change course. On the northern part of the belt,
the land is a little raised, and appears to be clad with something like
grass.
There are two entrances, which at high water may be safe ; but at the
moment we passed, the surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the
rocks bare. The dangers from the rock, northerly, extend two miles
easterly, and the same north-westerly. On the beach several large trees
were observed, and an object which was thought to be part of a vessel,
near the western opening.
In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one
large hole of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock,
attaching it to the eastern side of the island. This literally constitutes
two islands, formed by its two openings ; both are on the weather side of
the island.
No living trees were seen, but the whole island was covered with
gannett, boobies, frigate pelicans, and several kinds of tern, which had
also been noticed in great numbers during the previous week, at least
500 miles to the eastward. From this, an easterly current may be
inferred, as these birds generally keep in its stream or tail course.*
No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur, with 100 fathoms of line, but
* It does not therefore follow, as a matter of course, as noticed by some writers,
that the appearance of birds denotes land to windward ; they are more likely guided
by tide.
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 193
the Starling had soundings with less than 100, on the northern side of
the island.
Sharks, porpoises, and turtle were observed together. The former
annoyed us much hy biting at our patent logs, for which one was taken,
and made an example of. They were very large, and literally swarmed.
In all probability, they were attracted by a shoal of file (balistes) and
other small fish which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the
Island of Cocos."
REVILLAG1GEDO ISLANDS.— This is a group of islands in lat.
18° 43' N., the largest of which, Socorro, is stated to be nearly 30 miles
in extent. They are evidently of volcanic origin, and are said to supply
neither wood nor water. The name Rivella Gigeda, or Revillagigedo
as the islands are more generally called, was given by Colnett in 1793,
in compliment to the Viceroy of Mexico, from whom he had received
much kindness and civility.
SOCORRO. — This island is lofty, making in several peaks, the highest
of which is probably 2000 feet above the sea level. Its northern and
western shores have, as yet, only partially been examined, the principal
anchoring-places being on the south-eastern coast, which is represented
to have a dreary and forbidding aspect. The general direction of the
island is W.N.W. and E.S.E., and its average breadth is about three
leagues. It may be said to consist of one mountain, which can be
seen at the distance of about 20 leagues in clear weather, falling in a
gradual descent on the south side. It is in a great measure covered with
brush-wood, intermixed with the low prickly pear-trees, and occasionally
shaded with other trees of a larger growth. Some few patches of the
soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it ; and the top
of the high land has the appearance, from a distance, of being an extinct
volcano : the surface is of a whitish colour, like that of pumice-stone.
Although Socorro has not recently given evidence of volcanic action, yet
there is little doubt that the whole of this group of islets originated from
that source.
Off the north and west coasts of Socorro there are some detached
rocks ; and some rocks extend also off the south shore, which is a high
bold coast. On this side of the island are two bays, Corn wall is * and
Braithwaite Bays, in which there is moderately good anchorage, under
shelter of the land. Captain Colnett says : — " The seasons of the year
being considered, I think the safest anchorage, from June to December,
is between the south and south-west points, opposite to two white coral
* In this bay there are soundings of 30 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom. Colnett
anchored herein 1793, in 25 fathoms, at about two miles from the shore, with llic
extremes of the island bearing from W.N.W. to E.S.E. ; and two small sandy beaches
N. by E. to N.N.E.
o
194 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR
beaches, which are the first two in succession from the south point of the
island towards the west. It is the place where we first anchored, and
remarkable from the pinnacle rocks which lay close off the west point of
the bay. I prefer this place in the bad season, as the wind seldom blows
more than two points to the southward of East. In the good season,
however, that is from the latter end of December to the beginning of
June, I prefer the south-east bay, being better anchorage and nearer to
the cove, which was the only good landing-place we discovered, and is
easily known, being a stony beach at the first inlet in the shore to the
eastward of the south point : all other parts of the coast on the south
side of the island are iron-bound, which makes it extremely difficult, if not
impossible, to land, except in very fine weather."
Braithwaite Bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the eastward and
southward; in it the soundings are 17 to 10 fathoms, sand and coral.
Its position is lat. 18° 43' 14" N. and long. 110° 54' 15" W., according
to Sir Edward Belcher, who observes : — " The landing is rocky, with
shores of lava coule, and nothing like a beach. Neither wood nor water
was visible, although from the constant clouds which hang over the high
peaks, there must be a supply in some other point. Lieut. Wood was
despatched to examine the westward bay for wood or water. His
report (not having landed) was, ' that goats were observed, the bay
spacious, but no indications of wood or water visible.' It is probable
that the goats find water.
I found it difficult to penetrate into the interior of the island, even
for a few hundred feet, owing to the prevalence of the cactus opuntia;
all who attempted to do so suffered for their curiosity. One of my boat's
crew made himself ill by eating a large bean which grew abundantly ;
but as I partook of them cooked without injury, I suspect him to have
indulged too freely." Some of Captain Colnett's people also suffered
severely from the same cause.
ST. BENEDICTO ISLAND. — This island is to the north-eastward of
Socorro, in lat. 19° SO' N. and long. 110°45' W., and when viewed
from the southward, has a barren appearance, with little or no vegetation.
It is about six miles long, in a N.E. and S.E. direction, and two or
three in breadth, and has a few rocks, just above the water, off several
parts of it. Its surface is uneven, and its aspect is described as romantic,
it having the appearance of two distinct islets, when seen from a distance
of nine or ten miles. On its western side is a small bay, which has
not been examined.
ROCA PARTIDA. — This is a dangerous barren rock, 50 or 60 fathoms
long, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, lying in lat. 19° 9' N. and long.
112° 2' W. Its breadth is only 25 or 30 fathoms, and both ends are II
or 120 feet in height, the north-west end appearing forked, and tl
THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.
195
south-east end like a ragged hay-cock. The two heights are separated
by a ragged saddle, which rises 18 or 20 feet above the surface of the sea,
and is nearly perpendicular. At a boat's length from the rock there are
35 fathoms ; and at half a mile off, 50 fathoms ; and afterwards no bottom
with 100 fathoms of line. The rock appears from every direction like a
sail under a jury-mast.
CLARION ISLAND.— To the westward of Revillagigedo Islands is
Clarion Island, a small island of considerable height, and very similar in
its natural features to Socorro Island. The hills are lofty, the highest
peak being estimated to be 1500 feet high, and when bearing to the
N.E. they make in three hummocks, which give the island, from a
distance, the appearance of three distinct islets. It is probable that it
contains but little fresh water, although there must be a great deal
precipitated from the clouds, which almost constantly hang over the high
land. Neither wood nor other necessaries can be obtained, still a vessel
in great distress might have her wants to some extent relieved.
The island is about five and three-quarter miles long, and two miles
broad, and has been but little examined, particularly the north shore.
On its southern side is a small bay named Sulphur Bay, the east side of
which is in lat. 18° 20' 36" N. and long. 114° 40' 19" W. ; in this Sir
Edward Belcher attempted to moor, but was prevented by the breaking
of his anchor. The east end of the island appears to be steep and pre-
cipitous.
In the vicinity of Clarion, several islands have been reported, and Sir
Edward Belcher sought for them for a considerable time, without success.
It may therefore be concluded that as the position of the island was not
till lately very accurately ascertained, it has been seen by various parties,
and reported by each as a distinct discovery.
ALIJOS ROCKS. — This is a very dangerous group of rocks, lying
off the coast of California, in lat. 24° 57' 25" N. and long. 115° 45' 20" W,
ALIJOS ROCKS, bearing about S. 14° E., distant two miles.
The southernmost and largest rock is about 110 feet high, and there
are many above and under water close to it. See view of them in the
chart of the coast of California, published by the proprietor of this work.
GUADALOUPE ISLAND.— This island is to the northward of the
Alijos Rocks, and its north point is represented to be in lat. 29° 10' 50" N.,
o2
196
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR, ETC.
and long. 118° 18' 30" W. It is about 15 miles long by five miles
broad, and is very lofty in the interior, a chain of hills extending
through the whole length of the island. The highest of these hills is
over £000 feet high, and one near the north point of the island is
estimated to be even 3412 feet in elevation. The island can be seen a
distance of about 60 miles, and will appear, when bearing either east or
west, lower at its southern extremity thari at its northern.
GUADALOUPE TSLAND, the North Point bearing S. 46« E., five and a half miles.
Off the south end of the island are two rocky islets at some distance
from the shore, the outermost of which is 500 feet high. The shores are
in general bold, but have not been closely examined ; although it is said
that a small cove exists on the south-east shore, which is formed by some
rocky islets, and contains the only anchorage in the island, the riding
being in seven fathoms, and the shelter from all winds except those
between S.E. and E.N.E.
But few supplies of any description can be obtained here, the island
being quite barren and rocky, and affording very little sustenance for
any thing except goats. It is said that wood and water may be
obtained from a cove on the north-east side of the island.
Vancouver says that the Spaniards were accustomed to make this
island when bound to the southward from Monterey, or from their other
northern settlements ; in which route they passed to the westward, out
of sight of the islands forming the canal of Sta. Barbara, for the advan-
tage of continuing in the strength of the N.W. winds; and thus they
reached this island, and afterwards steered a course for Cape San Lucas.
APPENDIX.
GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC.
DURING the period that this work has been going through the press, the
elaborate report of the engineers engaged in the survey of the Isthmus
of Tehuantepec, with a view to the construction of a railroad from the
Gulf of Mexico to the shores of the Pacific, has appeared ; which supplies
some additional information to that by Captain Masters, contained in the
body of the work, pp. 34 — 41.
LA VENTOSA. — The bay selected as the place of junction for the
railroad with the Pacific is that of La Ventosa, situated in latitude
16° IT N. and longitude 95° 14' W., according to the determination of
the surveyors ; which position is about 12 miles to the south-eastward of
the Town of Tehuantepec. It is not very extensive, being only two or
three miles across ; but it presents some advantages which the other bays
on this coast do not possess. Although open to the South and East,
vessels may safely ride at anchor in it, as the holding-ground is excellent,
and the depth of six and seven fathoms almost all over the bay, very con-
venient. The soundings are gradual from three fathoms at the distance
of 100 yards from the beach, to seven and eight fathoms at the distance
of 1000 yards ; and the anchorage is on a muddy bottom extending E.N.E.
from the Point of the Morro.
Mr. Temple says of La Ventosa : — " I am of opinion that La Ventosa
is not only the best, but the point for a harbour on the Pacific coast of
the Isthmus. It is a far better and safer port than either Valparaiso in
Chili, or Monterey in California ; ports in constant use the year through-
out. I speak from personal observation, as well as from an examination
of the several charts, and the similarity of outline has suggested the com-
parison ; for, although the indentation of the coast is possibly a little
deeper at each of these places than at La Ventosa, yet they are both open
to the northward, and as the general trend of the coast is nearly north and
south, the prevailing gales blow directly along shore n d into these har-
bours, creating a heavy swell, and often forcing vessels to slip and go to
sea for safety : whereas, at La Ventosa the trend of the coast is east and
west, so that the Northers blow directly off-shore, and create no swell
198 APPENDIX.
whatever. The danger being from the sudden strain brought upon a cable
by the surging of a vessel in a sea-way, and not from the steady strain
caused by the wind, it follows that northers may be disregarded in an
estimate of the safety of this anchorage, as was satisfactorily shown in the
case of the Gold Hunter. But Northers, although frequent during the
winter, and seldom occurring at other seasons, are the only gales that
blow in this region. The southerly winds, characteristic of the summer
and autumn, are said to be nothing more than thunder squalls of short
duration, and incapable of raising a sea. Even the fresh and steady sea-
breezes that prevailed during the latter portion of our stay at La Ventosa
were unaccompanied by any increase of swell."
The following is an extract from the Report on La Ventosa by the
engineer, P. E. Trastour, Esq. : —
" The western extremity of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an
isolated rock of oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 feet
high and 2600 in circumference ; and a little more to the south by a
pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval filled in with sand,
and forming an angular projection into the sea, known under the name of
the Point of the Morro.
On the west, the Point of the Morro is contiguous, by its base, to an
uninterrupted series of rocky hills, lining the beach and covering an ex-
tent of GOOO feet. They cut perpendicularly the flank and rear of an
agglomeration of moderate heights, somewhat rugged and precipitous at
their summits, and forming together a thick cluster of granitoidal struc-
ture, disposed in strata wherein feldspath and amphibole are predo-
minant. It is the last link of that chain which, detaching itself at the
north-west from the Cordillera of Oaxaca, descends by an irregular series
of decreasing heights, passes to the north of Huamelula, turning it at the
south-east, and terminates at the Pacific Ocean, where it separates the
Bay of La Ventosa from the Bay of Salina Cruz.
The sandy strand of La Ventosa commences at the foot of the lateral
portion of the Cerro Morro, facing the east, and describes from the south
to the north-east an arc nearly two and a half miles in length ; then takes
an easterly and almost rectilinear direction, but drawing a little towards
the south, extends on about six miles further, where it runs into the sea:
after which it turns back again abruptly and inclines towards the north,
though ' trending ' all the while in an easterly direction.
From the summit of the Cerro Morro looking toward the east, the beach
loses itself in a distant horizon, and unfolds to the eye a long belt of white
sand from two to three hundred feet wide, terminating inland by a vast
plain, scarcely broken upon by the isolated hillocks of Huazontlan. This
plain, of a slightly undulating nature, is composed of sand, clay, and vege-
table earth. It is covered with trees of middling size, which grow both
APPENDIX. 199
thinner and smaller, as one advances towards the east. But in the direc-
tion of the Cordillera which separates the Isthmus into two parts, north
and south, this alluvial country is generally flat, presenting at rare inter-
vals detached heights, easily avoided in the planning of a road of any
character whatever, offering to the view fields of corn, indigo, sugar-
cane, palm-trees, nopals, bananas, orange-trees, cocoanut-trees, and
plants of which the vigour and variety bear witness to the great fertility
of the soil.
The sandy beach of La Ventosa itself is cut by lagoons of little depth,
having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed of the Tehuantepec
River. At the time of the periodical overflow, this current flows over a
low country before reaching the Pacific Ocean, in which it then empties
itself, not only by its mouth, situated 16° 20' 40" N. latitude and
95° 15' 25" W. longitude, but also by means of those lagoons, its sole
outlets during the dry season.
The volume of the water of the river is subject to very great variations
in the course of the year. In the rainy season it reaches 12 feet depth,
in years of an extraordinary character.
The rainy season usually commences in the month of June and finishes
in the beginning of October. The Isthmus, in general, offers as many
different climates as localities, differing from one another by their situa-
tion, the nature of their soil, the atmospheric phenomena, and the posi-
tion of their mountains in respect to the cardinal points.
ADVANTAGES. — The immense basin of La Ventosa presents a safe and
commodious barbour to vessels of all sizes. Closed at the west by the
heights of the Morro, it is open at the south and east. This configura-
tion of the bay allows vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of
the quarter from which the wind blows. Throughout its great extent,
and on entering it from the sea, no shoals are to' be met with; everywhere
a good anchorage is to be found. The bottom is of compact sand, and a
great proportion of it is mixed with clay.
The depth is almost regularly graduated : it presents at from 350 to
8000 feet distance from the shore, a progressive running from 17 to 53
feet, and averaging, for the first" thousand feet, two feet increase per
hundred feet, and about six inches per hundred feet for the following
thousand feet.
The greatest difference that has been observed in the level of the water
was six and a half feet.
WINDS. — Besides the variable winds, which are rather light, and the
land and sea breezes of the morning and evening, two prevalent winds,
the north-north-east and south-south-west winds, reign during a great
portion of the year on the southern coast of the Isthmus. The first of
these two atmospheric currents is not felt at 60 miles east of La Ventosa,
200 APPENDIX.
beyond the Barra dc Tonala ; nor at 62 miles west, beyond the moun-
tain of Chahuhe, which bounds on the west the lagoon of Tengu-
lunda.
The north-north-east wind usually begins to blow about the 15th of
October and ceases in the fore part of April. In the month of November
it blows without interruption, and at that time it reaches its maximum.
Towards the middle of December it ceases during intervals of from 10 to
12 days, and then begins anew to blow one or two weeks. These altera-
tions or interruptions and renewals are reproduced at short and unequal
periods. But the length of the period of discontinuance goes on gra-
dually increasing till the wind only blows one day, and finally ceases
completely.
The Indians of Santa Maria del Mar are familiar with the indications
announcing the coining of the north-north-east winds. In the evening
at about sun-down, if the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and
San Miguel Chimalapa (seen from the coast) are concealed from the view
by quantities of slate-coloured vapour, it is indicative that the northers
will blow the day following, and will last as many days as the summits of
those Cordilleras continue to be covered with similar clouds. Vapour of
a corresponding hue, seen at the same hour, at the horizon of the Pacific
Ocean, announces that the south-south-west wind will blow on the day
following.
The south-south-west wind, which in winter succeeds the north wind,
during one or two days at most, is the only general wind prevailing dur-
ing the months of June, July, and August. After some gales of more or
less intensity, which may be compared to the violence of the north wind,
and not exceeding one and a half or two hours' duration, the southerly
wind is definitely fixed. Towards evening its intensity decreases till the
next morning, when the same phenomenon is renewed. Still, this wind
is subject to more interruption than the north wind, and the intervals
of repose last longer. The south-south-west wind, passing over the
ocean, reaches the coast of the Isthmus laden with vapours, which at
certain hours of the day resolve themselves into abundant showers.
In winter and in summer, during the prevalence of the southerly and
northerly winds, the current of the sea is from east to west ; its greatest
velocity is about one and a half mile per hour. This continual move-
ment in the waters of the Pacific is only discernible at a distance of about
6000 feet from the shores of La Ventosa.
The bay of La Ventosa is much safer than the harbour of Vera Cruz.
Violent tempests frequently render the latter inaccessible during several
days, and even when the north wind blows, the communication between
the town and the vessels in the harbour is interrupted. During our
APPENDIX. 201
sojourn at the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, we have never had to record one
tempest or hurricane on the Pacific Ocean.
In December, 1850, while we were atLaVentosa, the north-north-east
wind blew (offshore) with extreme violence from the 7th to the 17th
of that month, and we remarked, with surprise, that the sea was not
agitated.
To enable you to appreciate the condition of the sea at La Ventosa,
such as it actually is, it would perhaps be well here to mention that our
soundings were effected by means of an open boat, five feet beam by 18 feet
long, which we had brought from New Orleans, and which was conveyed
across the Cordillera ; with this boat we were able to sail out eight miles
into the open sea."
BOCA BARRA.— At about 22 miles to the eastward of La Ventosa
is the Boca Barra, the entrance to an extensive lagoon. The coast be-
tween is low and flat, and has soundings of five and a half to eight fathoms
at one and a half to two miles from the shore. The lagoon runs into the
land about 12 miles, and is altogether fully 30 miles in extent, but it is
of little use to navigation, there being numerous shoals scattered over its
surface, and the entrance being too shallow to admit vessels even of a
moderate size. On the bar breakers constantly prevail, which add greatly
to the difficulty experienced in running in.
The soundings immediately outside the entrance of the Boca Barra are
two and a half to four fathoms, fine sand. On the 9th of November,
1850, at llh. 45m. a current was found setting out of it at the rate of
seven and a half miles an hour.
APPENDIX.
WINDS IN THE PACIFIC.
THE following remarks on the winds which prevail in some parts of the
Pacific, and on the North-western Coast of America, are by Lieutenant
James "Wood, late commanding H. M. S. Pandora : —
" The prevailing winds of the Pacific, with the exception of those on
the coasts of Chili and Peru, are little known. A few remarks, there-
fore, on those that obtain along the western coast of America, from the
river Guayaquil to Vancouver Island, as well as on the more regular and
extended aerial currents which traverse the vast expanse of the open
ocean, condensed from observations and information collected during a
four years' cruize over the greater part of it, may not be destitute of
interest and utility, especially as the northern portion is but little
known, and promises, ere long, to become the theatre of an important
trade between the coasts of China and the new and rich countries
which American enterprise and energy are now so rapidly peopling and
raising from obscurity on the coast of California.
The whole of this extensive line may be divided into three portions
or zones : —
First. — The intertropical, which is more or less affected by the fine
and rainy seasons.
Secondly.— The dry and arid portion which extends from 23°
to 32° north, where the winds blow with almost the regularity of a
trade wind.
Thirdly. — The more variable northern coast, which is subject to
greater vicissitudes of climate.
GUAYAQUIL RIVER TO GUASCAMA POINT. — The Intertropical. —
Along the whole of the coast from the river Guayaquil, in lat. 3° S., to
Guascama Point in 2° N., the wind is mostly from south to west all the
year round ; the exceptions are few, and generally occur in the fine
season. Both in beating up this coast to the southward, and in running
down it, the former in the months of May and June, the latter in those
of October, November, and January, we had the wind from S.S.E. to
W. (by the south,) with a constant current to the north-eastward, the
APPENDIX.
only difference being that the winds were lighter, and the weather finer
in May and June as we got to the southward ; whilst the contrary took
place in October and November; and in January the weather was
generally fine, with moderate breezes.
CHOCO BAY. — After entering the Bay of Choco, of which Point Guas-
cama forms the southern horn, the winds become more variable ; but
during the time we were in the bay (from the end of January to the
middle of March) it never blew very fresh, though the weather was often
unsettled and heavy rains frequent. The prevailing wind was from
south-west, but north-westerly winds were not uncommon.
CHIRAMBIRA POINT TO THE GULF OF SAN MIGUEL. — When past
Chirambira Point (the northern horn of Choco Bay) we had the wind
more from the northward, and in the latter end of March had to beat
up to Panama Bay against north-westerly and north-easterly breezes,
blowing a fresh breeze at times, especially as we approached the bay.
In surveying this last-named part, in January, 1848, we found the winds
more variable, heavy rains almost always accompanying a change to south-
west, from which quarter we once or twice had a stiff breeze.
GULF OF SAN MIGUEL TO THE GULF OF DULCE, INCLUDING THE
BAY OF PANAMA. — First, or Intertropical Winds. — Between the southern
point of the Gulf of San Miguel and the Gulf of Dulce, including
Panama Bay and the coast of Veragua, the winds are regulated by the
seasons. Towards the end of December the northers begin to blow.
These are fine, dry breezes which generally come on in the afternoon,
and blow very fresh from N.N.E. to N.N.W. till near midnight, with a
perfectly clear and cloudless sky, and the air so dry and rarified that
objects on a level with the horizon are distorted and flattened, and the
same effects are caused as are seen during an easterly breeze off our own
coast. Though generally a double-reefed topsail breeze, they occasionally
blow much harder, especially off the coast of Veragua, where, in the
months of January and February, even a close-reefed topsail breeze is
not uncommon. During even the strongest of these, a dead calm often
prevails 10 or 15 miles off the land, the only evidence of the gale that
is blowing within a few hundred yards of you being the agitation of the
water, which is raised into short hollow waves, which break on board of
and tumble you about awfully.
Towards the end of March up to the middle of April, the Northers
begin to cease, and are succeeded by calms and light sea and land breezes,
with occasional squalls from the south-westward. As April advances the
squalls get stronger and more frequent, and by the early part of May the
rainy season generally sets in, during the greater part of which south
and south-westerly winds prevail : these are not very violent within the
Bay of Panama ; but -from Punta Mala, westward, gales from the above
204 APPENDIX.
quarters are frequent, and sometimes severe, bringing a very heavy sea
with them.
GULF OF DULCE TO THE GULF OF FONSECA. — From the Gulf of
Dulce, proceeding westward along the shores of Costa Rica, Guatemala,
and Mexico, we find the winds still follow the changes of the seasons,
modified, however, by locality. For instance, whenever the northers
prevail, we find them blowing off the shore at nearly right angles to the
run of the coast ; thus, as soon as the coast of Nicaragua is approached
(which takes a more northerly direction than that before mentioned), we
find, during the fine season, the northers exchanged for breezes called
'Papagayos.' These blow from N.N.E. to E.N.E. or E., and are
accompanied by the same clear fine weather as the northers ; the pre-
vailing wind, however, during this season (from January to April) is from
south-east to north-east. From May to November, which is the rainy
season, the weather is mostly bad, gales from the west and south-
west with thunder, lightning, &c., being frequent and at times
violent.
GULF OF FONSECA TO THE GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC. — After passing
the Gulf of Fonseca, where the land again trends nearly due west, the
northerly winds are lost, till on reaching the Gulf of Tehuantepec we
meet them once more, but under a different name, and assuming a more
violent character. Along this portion where the mountains approach,
and even in some places form the coast line, the winds during the fine
season are the usual tropical land and sea breezes ; the former from N.W.,
the latter from S. to W.S.W. and W. The remaining months are marked
by even worse weather from the same quarters as is found on the Nica-
ragua coast.
THE GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC TO TEJUPAN POINT. — First, or Inter-
tropical Winds. — The heavy blasts which blow over the Isthmus of Te-
huantepec, derive their source from the country they cross. They seem
to be caused by the northers in the Gulf of Mexico, which here find a
vent through the opening formed between the Mexican and Guatema-
lian mountains. They blow with great force from North to N.N.E.,
and raise a very high short sea ; their force is felt several hundred miles
off the coast. During the season when they prevail (December to April)
every preparation should be made to meet and carry sail through them :
if this can be done they are soon crossed, and 200 to 250 miles of westing
(or easting) made ; otherwise, if you are obliged to heave to, 36 to 118
hours of heavy weather may be expected, exposed all the while to a very
high and short sea. In the rainy season these cease ; but the weather
here, as along the whole coast of Mexico, is then very bad, gales and
strong breezes from S.E. to S.W. constantly occur, whilst squalls
accompanied by thunder and lightning, with heavy, and almost inces-
APPENDIX. 205
sant rain, characterise the season throughout. These gales are at times
very severe, rendering the navigation of such a coast very unpleasant, as,
with one exception, there is scarcely any shelter from them to be found.
During the fine season, however, nothing can be more regular or quiet
than the weather on the Mexican coast ; a regular sea breeze sets in
about noon, beginning from S.S.W. to W.S.W., and getting more
westerly as the sun goes down, decreasing with it, and gradually sinking
into a calm as the night closes in. This is succeeded by the land wind
off the shore, which is more irregular in its direction and force, but these
winds, and the method of making a passage to the westward, along the
coast, have been so well, and so truly described by Dampier and Basil
Hall, that nothing remains but to add my testimony to the correctness
of the accounts they give, as far as their phenomena fell under my
own observation.
As soon as the coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does
about Tejupan Point, we meet the northerly winds which blow down
the Gulf of California, and which are found pretty steady during the
fine season a few miles off the coast : by taking advantage of these, and
the daily variations caused by the land and sea breezes, the passage is
made from this point to San Bias and Mazatlan; but it is always a
tedious beat, owing to a contrary current and frequent calms.
CAPE ST. LUCAS TO SAN DIEGO. — Second Portion or Division. —
From Cape St. Lucas to San Diego, or from 23° to 32° N., the general
direction of the wind is from west to north, but during the winter
months, or from November to April, this coast is subject to violent gales
from the S.E., which, as most of the bays and anchorages are open
towards that quarter, are much dreaded. This is especially the case along
the northern portion of this division, as towards Cape San Lucas they
are less frequent; however, they always give ample warning of their
approach. The only way, therefore, of making a passage up this coast, is
by standing off upon the starboard tack ; as you get out, the wind draws
to the eastward, till either the variables are reached, or you can fetch
your port on the other tack. In the summer season the only alteration
is that the wind is more westerly in the mornings, and draws round with
the sun as the day advances.
FROM SAN DIEGO TO SAN FRANCISCO. — Third Division. — From San
Diego to San Francisco the wind prevails from the north-westward nearly
all the year round. This coast is subject to the same south-easterly
gales as the coast of Lower California, but they are more frequent here,
and blow with greater force. All its bays and roadsteads are similarly
exposed with the exception of the above named ports, which are
perfectly secure and defended from all winds. During the winter,
therefore, vessels always anchor in a convenient berth for slipping, with
206 APPENDIX.
springs and buoys on their cables, so that on the first appearance of
heavy clouds approaching from the south-east, with a swell rolling uj>
from the same quarter (the invariable signs of the coming gale), they
may be able to slip and go to sea without loss of time. These gales last
from 12 hours to two days, and are accompanied by heavy rain, which
lasts till the wind changes, which it often does very suddenly, and blows
as hard for a few hours from the north-west, when the clouds clear off
and fine weather again succeeds. Off Conception Point gales and strong
breezes are so frequent as to obtain for it the appellation of the Cape
Horn of California. They are mostly from north to west, and frequently
blow with great force, especially in the winter, when they sometimes
last for three days together, without a cloud to be seen, till they begin
to moderate. But here one of the most remarkable features of this
coast first shows itself, viz., the frequent and dense fogs, which, during
more than half the year, render the navigation from San Diego north-
ward most unpleasant. In making the land, the only way to deal with
them, is to feel your way into the coast with the lead during the day-
time, as it frequently happens that a thick fog prevails at sea, while, at
the same time, within a mile or two of the land, a beautiful clear bright
sky, and open horizon are to be found : if disappointed in this, you have
but to wear, haul off again, and heave to till the desired change does
take place.
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO VANCOUVER ISLAND. — From San Francisco
northward to Fuca Strait, the north-westerly are still the prevailing
winds ; in the months of June, September, and October, we found them
almost constantly so : hard gales from all points of the compass, however,
may be looked for here at all seasons, especially during the winter, and
the equinoxial months. These begin generally from S.E. to S.W.,
bringing thick rainy weather with them. After blowing from these
quarters for some hours, they fly round to the northward, |bv the west,)
with little if any warning, except the increased heaviness of the rain, and
blow even harder than before. During the spring, easterly and north-
westerly breezes are more prevalent than at other seasons. In the
summer months, westerly winds and fine weather prevail, but from the
end of July to the end of August the fogs are so frequent that many
weeks will sometimes pass without a clear day.
FROM THE SOUTHWARD TO PANAMA BAY.
Method of Making Passage within the 1st Division. — From what has
been said respecting the winds which prevail within the first division, it
will be seen that the passage from the southward to Panama Bay is easily
made during the greater part of the year ; but in the fine season, when
APPENDIX. 207
within the influence of the northers, the following plan should be adopted.
Make short tacks in-shore, as there is generally a set to the northward
found within a few miles of the land, and where that is interrupted, a
regular tide is exchanged for a constant current farther off. Between
Chirambira Point and Cape Corrientes the land is low and faced with
shoals, caused by the mouths of the numerous rivers which have their
outlets on this part of the coast, but after passing Cape Corrientes, it
may be approached pretty closely, except off Francisco Solano Point,
where some shoal rocky patches extend to seaward, as the coast is in
general bold-to. Care, however, should be taken not to run into the
calms caused by the high lands, as it is difficult to get off into the breeze
again, and the swell sets in-shore where it frequently happens that no
anchorage is to be found till close to the rocks.
In beating up the Bay of Panama, in the fine season, the eastern pas-
sage, or that between the Islas del Rey and the main is to be preferred,
as, with one exception, it is free from dangers. The water is smooth, and
a regular tide enables you to make more northing than it would be pos-
sible to do in nine cases out of ten, against the strong current and short
high sea which at this season prevail in the centre or on the western side.
During the rainy season a straight course up the bay is preferable to
entangling yourself with the islands, the current generally following the
direction of the wind.
FROM PANAMA BAY TO THE SOUTHWARD. — But the great difficulty,
at all times, consists in getting either to the southward or westward of
Panama. The passage to the southward is made in two ways, — either by
beating up the coast against a constantly foul wind and contrary current, or
by standing off to sea till sufficient southing is made to allow you to fetch
your port on the starboard tack. Both plans are very tedious, as it fre.
quently takes twenty days to beat up to Guayaquil, whilst six or seven
days are an average passage down.
FROM PANAMA BAY TO THE WESTWARD. — If bound to the west-
ward during the northers, a great deal of time may be saved by keeping
close in-shore, and thus take advantage of them ; they will carry you as
far as the Gulf of Nicoya. When past the Morro Hermoso, ' Papagayos '
may be looked for, and with them a course should be steered for the Gulf
of Tehuantepec, when it will depend on the port you are bound to,
whether, after crossing the gulf by the aid of one of its gales, you should
keep in or off shore. If bound for Acapulco, keep in, and beat up ; but
if bound to the westward, you cannot do better than make a west course,
as nearly all the winds will allow you : but as the in-shore winds are now
under discussion, we will leave the consideration of the best means of
reaching the trade-winds for a future occasion.
The passage to the westward of Panama, during the rainy season, is a
208 APPENDIX.
most tedious affair, calms, squalls, contrary winds, and currents, accom-
panied by a heavy swell, and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere
loaded with moisture and rain, are the daily accompaniments. It often
occurs that 20 miles of westing are not made in a week, and it is only by
the industrious use of every squall and slant of wind, that the passage can
be made at all. Opinions are divided amongst the coasters as to the pro-
priety of working to the southward and trying to get rid of the bad
weather, or beating up within a moderate distance of the land. My
experience would lead me to prefer the latter, as the strong winds and
frequent squalls which so often occur near the land, sometimes allow a
long leg to be made to the north-westward, while, farther off, this advan-
tage is sacrificed for only a shade finer weather.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS RESPECTING THE OFF-SHORE WINDS. —
With respect to the winds which prevail in the open ocean, the same
general rules obtain in the Pacific, as are recognised throughout the rest
of the globe, i. e., a north-eastern trade within the limits of the northern
tropic, and a south-eastern within the southern ; also as to the prevalence
of westerly winds when either to the northward or southward of those
boundaries. There are, however, exceptions to these rules. Within the
tropics, wherever large groups of islands are found, the trades are subject
to great variations both in direction and force. Also to the northward of
the tropic of Cancer, when bound from the Sandwich Islands for the
American coast, there are many instances, during the spring and summer,
of 45° or even 50° of north latitude being reached, before a westerly
wind could be obtained.
FROM THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS TO CAPE ST. LUCAS. — I have already
alluded to the difficulty of getting to the westward from the Bay of
Panama. The trade wind seems to possess no steady influence to the
eastward of a line drawn from Cape St. Lucas, in 22° N., to the Gala-
pagos Islands on the equator. Amongst these islands the south-eastern
trade wind is steady during nine or ten months of the year, and it is only
in January and February, and sometimes March, that they are interrupted
by long calms, and occasional breezes north and north-west, but these are
never of any strength. To the northward of them, the eastern limit of
the trade seems to depend upon the time of the year. In the early part
of April, I have found it between the parallels of 8° and 13° North, 900
to 1000 miles farther to the eastward than at the end of June ; and in
the intermediate months, either more or less to the eastward as it was
earlier or later in the season, but in no case that I have met with has a
steady or regular trade been experienced till the above line has been
reached. It is this circumstance, and the prevalence in the intermediate
space of westerly winds, calms, and contrary currents, that makes the
passage from Panama to the westward, as far as this line, so tedious. I
APPENDIX. 209
have been 40 days beating from the entrance of the bay, in 80° W., to the
eastern edge of the trade, in 1 1 1° W-, a distance of less than 2000 miles, or,
on an average, about 40 miles per day.
FROM THE MERIDIAN OF CAPE ST. LUCAS, WESTWARD. — When
once within the influence of the trades, a passage is easily made either to
the southward, westward, or northward ; but it must be borne in mind
that the eastern verge of this trade seems, in these parts, to be influenced
by the seasons. Thus in June and July, I found it fresh from
N.N.W., and even at times N.W., as far out as the meridian of 125° W.>
whereas in March and April it was light from N.N.E. to E. and E.S.E.
from our first meeting it in 98° W. till passed the meridian of Cape St.
Lucas in 110° W., where I picked up a good steady breeze from N.N.E.
As a general rule the wind is found to haul more to the eastward as
you get farther off the land, and I did not find this rule affected by
the latitude, as, although, as I have stated, the wind hangs to the north-
ward, and even at times to the westward of north, near the eastern limit of
the trade, from the tropic of Cancer to the variables near the equator, I
found it about the meridian of the Sanwich Islands, as far to the eastward
on and near the line as it was in 35° north, in which latitude the westerly
winds are in general met with.
FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD AND EAST-
WARD.— The passages, therefore, from the Sandwich Islands to any part
of the north-west coast of America, are made by standing to the northward
till the westerly winds are reached, when the run into the coast is easily
made, taking care, however, if bound to a port to the southward of you,
not to bear up till well in with the land, when, as I have said, north-westerly
winds will be found to carry you down to the southward.
On this coast, as a general rule, the land should always be made to the
northward of the port you are bound to, as in almost all cases the wind
and current both prevail from the northward from Vancouver Island to
Cape Corrientes of Mexico.
Though lying between the parallels of 19° and 23° north, the Sandwich
Islands are often visited during the winter months with strong breezes
and gales from south and south-west, but for the rest of the year the
trade-wind blows pretty steadily. In making a passage from thence to
the coast of Chili or Peru, the best way is to stand across the trade as
near the wind as the top-mast-studding-sail will stand. This, as the
direction of the wind is in general from E.N.E. to E., will enable you to
make Tahiti, and pass the Society Islands by one of the clear channels to
the westward of it. It is of little use trying to fetch to the eastward of
these, as not only do you lose much time by hugging the wind too close,
but also the strong current which sets to the westward, from 20 to 40
miles a day, is pretty sure to drift you that much to leeward ; and even
p
210 APPENDIX.
were this not the case, so difficult, tedious, and dangerous is the naviga-
tion amongst the archipelago of low coral islands which lie to the east-
ward, that unless you can weather the Marquesas altogether, it is better
even to bear up, than to entangle yourself in such a labyrinth. After
passing the Society Islands, stand on to the southward, till in or about the
30th parallel the westerly winds will be found. These will carry you into
the coast; care being taken, as on the northern coast, not to bear up when
within the influence of the southerly winds, till near enough to the land
to ensure keeping them down to your port.
TRADE WINDS AFFECTED BY GROUPS OF ISLANDS. — I have before
stated, when once within the influence of these island groups, the trade
winds are found to be subject to great alterations and deflections, or lost
altogether. This is especially the case during the time the sun is to the
southward of the equator amongst those in the southern hemisphere.
West and south-west, as well as north-west winds are then often experi-
enced, and amongst the far western groups, heavy gales almost amounting
to hurricanes are experienced, when from their latitude they should be in
the very centre of the trade winds. As a proof of this deviation from
the usual course of the trades when near large groups of islands, I may
mention, that when making the passage from the Sandwich to the Society
Islands, in June, 1849, I had the wind nearly east all the way to the
parallel of the Marquesas (10° S.), when it came from the south-eastward ;
but I left Tahiti at the same month for Valparaiso with a north-
westerly wind, though this island is situated in 17° South. This carried
me 500 miles to the westward, nor did I again meet the trade, though the
usual boundary (the parallel of 30° S.) was not passed till I had sailed
with (for the most part) a fair wind, upwards of 2000 miles to the east-
ward.
From the time I left Pitcairn's Island (13th July) to within 100 miles
of the American coast, a distance of more than 3000 miles, I experienced
strong winds, and sometimes gales from south round by west to north-west,
only one day's interval ; this being, from all accounts, the general charac-
ter of winds in these latitudes." — Naut. Mag., Sept. 1850.
APPENDIX.
WEST COAST OF MEXICO.
COMMANDER C. B. Hamilton gives the following remarks on the west
Coast of Mexico : —
"This is considered highly dangerous in the bad season, viz. from
June to 5th November, and all the vessels obliged to remain in the
neighbourhood lie up, either in the secure harbour of Guaymas, or at
Pichiligue, in the Bay of La Paz, both in the Gulf of California.
The hurricanes that occasionally visit this coast are so much dreaded,
that in the months of July, August, September, and October, the ports
are deserted, and trade ceases. I believe the Frolic is the first vessel of
any nation, whether man-of-war or merchant-ship, that ever remained the
whole bad season on the coast. And, that off the two most dangerous
ports, viz. San Bias and Mazatlan. I shall therefore give all the
information I can, relative to the bad season.
The hurricane so much dreaded on this coast is called the Cordonazo
de San Francisco, a name given by the Spaniards on account of the
hurricane prevailing about the time of San Francisco's day, the 4th of
October, the word Cordonazo signifying a heavy lash with a rope or
whip ; but from my own experience, and all I can learn, these Cordo-
nazos may be expected any time from the middle of June to the 5th of
November ; the worst ones that have been experienced of late years
having occurred on the 1 st of November, although the weather usually
clears up about the 20th of October, and sometimes even sooner ; and
as soon as the weather does begin to clear up, a ship may, with common
precautions, venture into the anchorages again, for this reason, as soon
as the weather has cleared up, the change in the appearance of the sky
and weather will give ample warning of a coming hurricane, whereas, in
the previous four months before the weather has cleared up, the thing
that adds to the danger of this coast is, that owing to the threatening
appearance of the sky every evening, and the violent thunderstorms and
squalls at night, accompanied by heavy rain and lightning, the wind
veering about, you are first led to believe that the hurricane is coming
every night, and latterly you see it is utterly hopeless to foresee the
coming of it, as, every night, appearances were as bad as they could be ;
p 2
APPENDIX.
the barometer here being of little or no use, and a tremendous se*
occasionally setting in. Thus the remaining off this coast during the
hurricane season will cause great anxiety.
The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly flj
round to the southward and S.W. : you have generally time to get
sea when it commences at S.E. ; but, as I have before shown, you musl
go to sea every night, if you can, if you would be free from the danger
of the Cordonazos coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets
in whilst the weather is in this threatening state, and the wind still light,
which makes it impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened
to be out and on shore when the swell came, it was impossible to hoist
them in, and for this reason we have frequently been obliged to send our
boats from the ship, with their crews, to be hauled up on shore, and
remain there until the swell went down, that I might be ready to slip
and go to sea.
It appears that the Cordonazos come on an average once in six or
eight years, and we experienced none during our stay, although we had a
gale on the night of the 21st of September. I was fortunately under
weigh, and had plenty of room when it came on, having stood out to
sea on the evening of the 19th, on account of the weather being bad, and
fearing the full of the moon on the 20th.
It commenced about 9h. 30m. P.M., from S.E., flying round to S.W. ;
heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to
close reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and
obliging us to batten down. The squalls came on very suddenly, the
prevailing winds being in the bad season from S.E. to S. and S.W., and
the heavy swell usually before and after the full and change of the moon.
The swell is such as is seen in the Bay of Biscay in a heavy gale,
and unfortunately usually sets into the bays before the wind comes.
I therefore think that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias or Mazatlan
by a Cordonazo, would have small chance of escape, especially off the
former, as she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to
slip and stand out the instant it commences from S.E. is her best course.
The range of the thermometer for June was 77° to 86°; July,
80° to 87° ; August, 81° to 89° ; September, 83° to 92° ; October, 83°
to 90°.
The barometer appeared to be of little service, usually remaining at
30 inches : seldom varying above a tenth, except during a heavy squall,
when it rose considerably.
Our anchorage off San Bias during the bad season was usually in 1 2 J
fathoms, soft mud, — Piedro de Mer, N. 58° W.; Piedrode Tierra just
open to southward of bluff to the southward of San Bias River, N. 4-7°
E. ; Point off watering-place, N. 72° E.
APPENDIX*
OffMazatlan, during the same season, in 23 fathoms, soft mud ; centre
of Creston Isle, N. 13° E. ; north-west extreme of North Vienado Isle, N.
28° W. ; southernmost rock on south side of Mazatlan, N. 30° E. ;
small black rock nearly covered, N. 28° E.
I should not recommend a ship to lay closer than this, which is the
best berth to get out from, in case of bad weather.
Excellent biscuit can be procured at Guaymas, at a very moderate
price ; and a most superior spirit, riot inferior to the best whiskey, called
Tequella Mascal, can be procured in any quantity at San Bias, at a very
reasonable price, by applying to the consul at Tepic.
After the 4th of November the coasting and other vessels again make
their appearance on the west coast of Mexico. San Bias is very sickly
during the bad season. Guaymas is healthy, although the thermometer
stands there at the astonishing height of 106° in July, August, and
September, and owing to the extreme dryness of the atmospere, ships
receive much injury, by the wood opening. Furniture, apparently well
seasoned, there cracks and falls in pieces.
On this coast there are some immense fish of the ray species. I caught
one of them, and with difficulty hoisted one on board ; it measured 19
feet in breadth across the back, the mouth was three feet five inches wide,
and the flesh was three feet six inches deep in the centre. I had no
means of ascertaining the weight, but found I could not lift it with the
yard tackles and 60 men, it requiring 130 men, with the heaviest purchases
in the ship, to hoist it in.
These fish are common on the west coast of Mexico and Gulf of
California, where they are more dreaded by the pearl divers than
sharks, or any other fish." Naut. Mag., Sept., 1849.
To these remarks we will also add the following, by Captain Masters : —
" On the whole coast of Mexico (on its Pacific side) from June to
November, the weather is very tempestuous, with rain, thunder, and
lightning, and in many parts of it this season is also very sickly. On
the coast of Oaxaca, and in the Gulf of Tehuantepec, the rainy season
generally commences about the end of April, or the beginning of May,
from which time the roadsteads are very unsafe, until the bad weather
breaks up, which is in December, and on the Sea of Guadalaxara and
Sonora in November.
The dry season is generally fine, the sky generally clear, and the
winds moderate, and rain falls very seldom. From our leaving Mazatlan,
in January, to our sailing from the coast of Oaxaca, on the first of April,
we had not even a sign of a shower.
A heavy fall of dew is almost a sure indication of a breeze from the
northward. A few hours previous to its springing up, the air becomes
sultry and parching, and continues so during the time the norther is
214 APPENDIX.
blowing. In the Gulf of Tehuantepec, particularly, the norther is very
uncomfortable. A dismal haze hangs over the land, and the wind
conies off in gusts as if it had passed over a furnace, veering from
N.N.W. to N.N.E. On the western coast it is generally to the west-
ward of North.
In the dry or summer season, a vessel bound to the northward of Cape
Corrientes from Chili, or round Cape Horn, should cross the equator in
long. 105° or between it and 110°, and proceed due north if possible.
The wind in her progress to the northward will haul round from S.E. to
E. and N.E., with a current setting in the same direction as the wind is
blowing, or nearly so, and at times at the rate of one mile per hour. It
is very probable that in standing with the starboard tack on board, that
westing will also be made. If a ship be on the larboard tack, and the
wind supposed to be N.N.E. , she would make a very bad landfall, taking
the current into consideration, even allowing her to be as far north as
15°, but by standing on as far as the latitude of Cape San Lucas, there
is every chance, indeed almost a certainty, of having the wind from the
north-west, and at the same time the whole range of coast under the
lee. I stated this opinion to the captain of an American whaler who
had been on the coast several times ; he fully agreed with my observations,
and said that the prevailing wind on the coast of California is north-
west, and that the best way to make a short passage to the Gulf of Cali-
fornia or Mazatlan would be to keep clear of the coast of Mexico,
and stand well to the northward. In the winter, or rainy season, as the
wind is often from the south and east, a direct course would be most
advisable.
In my passage to Mazatlan we did not stand to the northward, as I
afterwards found, far enough, although we did not tack to the eastward
until we were in latitude 18J0, the wind in general being N.E. As we
got to the eastward the wind gradually hauled to the northward, when
we made the coast of Mexico, about 40 miles to the south-east of Cape
Corrientes, from which it took us three days to get to the southward of
the Tres Marias. When in-shore, the wind, when it blew fresh, was
from the N.W. ; and when moderate, from N. to N.N.E. In the
morning we had an irregular land-breeze, the current setting constantly
to the S.E. From the Tres Marias we were two days getting to
Mazatlan, with the wind as already stated.
It appears that in the Gulf of California, in the dry or summer season,
the wind is mostly from the N.W., in strong breezes, with a short chop
of a sea running. The coasting-vessels always keep the California shore
aboard in beating up the gulf.
The port of Guaymas is said to be the best in the whole coast of Mexico.
It is also more healthy than the southern part of the coast. Vessels
APPENDIX. 215
in the rainy season lay up here ; it is the only place, with the exception
of San Bias, that can be considered safe, on this part of the coast."
Lieutenant S. Osborn says : —
" A vessel anxious to keep on the coast of Mexico or its neighbour-
hood, during the bad season, cannot do better than run over to the Bay of
La Paz, on the west shore of the Gulf of California, and but little to the
north of Mazatlan. This spendid harbour is formed by the main land of
South California on the starboard hand going in, and a long chain of
islands with shallow passages between, on the port hand. The most eastern
island is Espiritu Santo, the north end of which lies in lat. 24° 30' N. and
long. 110° 22' W., and has a large rock due north of it, distant five miles.
In approaching this bay from Mazatlan, the Island of Cerelbo will be
first made, high and mountainous, north end lat. 24° 23' N., long, of
south end 109° 45' W.; from it Espiritu Santo will be seen, bearing about
W. by N. The bay is at least 30 miles deep, and for the first 20 miles a
deep bold shore on either hand, no bottom with 20 fathoms close to the
islands. Large vessels anchor under the Island of San Juan de Neponnek ;
but small ones anchor within half a mile of the village of La Paz : fish,
water, turtle, cheese, and fruits are to be obtained here ; and cattle, also,
in the wet season, when pasturage is to be found on the coast. Snakes
are very numerous and venomous.
A knowledge of the tides and currents in the neighbourhood of this
port would be very serviceable ; it has been much frequented by the
Americans during their operations against Mexico. A vessel bound to
California could only have one object in making the Mexican coast, en
route, namely, that of communicating with her owners, by overland des-
patch through Mexico, and as that is a possible occurrence, I will give the
few following notes for general guidance.
A vessel making the passage northward from San Bias had better
make an in-shore track, until she reaches the latitude of, or sights Cape
Lucas, the southern promontory of South California, as she will there get
the true wind, which blows almost without intermission along the line of
coast from the northward. A west, or may be south of west course will
only be first made good, but as an offing is obtained, the wind will be
found to veer a little to the eastward. However, it will always be the
object to make headway, and get out of the tropic without any reference
to the longitude, as a strong north-west wind will soon in 25° or 28° N.
run off the distance, provided you have sufficient northing.
The attempt to beat up in-shore amounts to perfect folly, if it does not
deserve a worse name, a strong current accompanying the wind ; and the
latter must be taken into consideration, when running in for your port with
westerly winds.
MONTEREY. — A vessel bound to Monterey ought to make the high
216 APPENDIX.
land of Santa Cruz on the northern extremity of the bay, and then shape
a course for the anchorage. A man-of war, in 1846, was nearly cast away
by standing for Cape Pinos, the southern extreme, and being set into the
dangerous bay of San Carmel, in one of the thick and sudden fogs peculiar
to this coast.
The anchorage of Monterey is in a small elbow formed on the northern
side of Cape Pinog". With north-west winds, there is sufficient scope from
the Santa Cruz shore for a considerable sea to get up ; but, with good
ground tackling a vessel need not hesitate to ride out any gale ; the offset
from the shore, which is steep-to, and the kelp, materially increasing her
chances of safety. The shore should not be approached nearer than 10
fathoms, and the vessel moored open hawse to the north-west.
The bearings from our anchorage were as follow : — Point Santa Cruz,
N. 45° W. ; land of Cape Pinos, N. 62° W. ; and the pier head, S. 22° W.
Watering at Monterey is attended with much trouble and inconveni-
ence. The Americans promised to improve it by carrying water to some
point near the landing-place, but the present gold mania has most likely
destroyed their projects.
Supplies in the shape of beef and mutton are plentiful, good, and were
cheap. The climate all the year round allows of the most successful salt-
ing. Vegetables grow in profusion at Carmelita ; and potatoes, though
small, are good : cheese is to be got in any quantity.
Wood for planks or spars is plentiful, though not of the first quality ;
but from the little port of Santa Cruz a superior quality of pine is obtain-
able, it growing to a very large size. Santa Cruz boasts of a ship-building
establishment, and many of the schooners trading on the coast have been
launched from the yard of an enterprising Frenchman residing there.
From the pine forest about Monterey we cut three top-gallant masts •
the trees requiring little trimming, as the following dimensions will show: —
diameter of tree at base three feet, whole height of tree 110 feet, height
of first branches from the ground 70 feet. These top-gallant masts, when
fidded, stood tolerably well, and were only set aside in consequence of
getting very superior spars from Puget's Sound.
The sportsman will be repaid in the neighbourhood of the town, indeed
the whole country is one great game preserve, from elk to quail. I had
forgotten to mention that the American oak grows here in vast profusion,
and affords excellent crooked timber for knees, &c., and is, moreover, first-
rate fire-wood.
Should a vessel, however, be bound to California direct, I would cross
the Equator in the Pacific Ocean in about 100° W. long. Cross the N.E.
trade with a top-mast-studding-sail set, and thus pass into the limit of the
westerly winds, about 300 miles to windward of the Sandwich Islands, and
once in them take good care to keep to the northward of my port, for as
I
APPENDIX. 217
you approach the shore, the wind will draw round north, and the current
to the southward increase.
Captain Beechey will be found an excellent guide as to the harbour of
San Francisco, and has in no way exaggerated its capabilities. It has only
two drawbacks, that of a narrow entrance in an unsheltered line of coast,
where fogs are both sudden and dense, and the sudden manner in which
the rollers set in on the bar at the mouth. A merchant-man, however, is
not so likely to miss his port when its being correctly made depends prin-
cipally on knowing his latitude."
FURTHER REMARKS. — The following extract from the remarks of
H. M. S. Spy, Lieutenant-Commander S. O. Woolridge, as to Mazat-
lan and Moleje Bays, Gulf of California, may prove interesting, though
there are in it many points stated, irrelevant to the present purpose : —
" Our passage from Callao to Mazatlan, of a few hours less than 26
days, is considered exceedingly good ; indeed, one of the best ever made.
As we drew in-shore, I found the current affected by the wind. With
northerly winds, the current set to southward, and vice versa. We re-
mained at Mazatlan 10 days, during which time the weather was, upon
the whole, fine. At night we had occasionally strong squalls, with rain.
July 17th, 1847, weighed for Guaymas. All the charts of the gulf
are miserably incorrect, and not to be trusted ; but, I see no difficulty in
navigating it by the lead. The water appeared to shoal very gradually
from 17 to 6 fathoms, when I always tacked. I used to stand into 10
fathoms at night, and six by day. As far as I can judge, Captain Hamil-
ton's (Frolic) positions of the coast are very fairly correct ; and there is
no doubt we are indebted to him for a capital assistance in navigating the
gulfs, in the absence of all Government charts. The shoal laid down in
black in his chart, off Ignacio Point, I passed over ; but, I placed the
island further to the eastward (in lat. 25° 22' N., long. 109° 18' 36" W.)
than Captain Hamilton's red Ignacio Isle.
I arrived at Guaymas on the 21st, in four days from Mazatlan. Dur-
ing this passage, we experienced strong currents running to the N.W.,
from a mile to one and a half a mile an hour. They were much influenced
by the wind, which, from the 19th to the 21st, was south-easterly and
southerly. Current also runs with more force on the eastern shore, which
side we kept.
Cape Haro can be easily distinguished by the Tetas, or Paps, which
resemble the teats of a goat ; they are to the northward. The Island of
St. Pedro Melasco is just visible from the deck, to the N.W. The land
on the Yagui shore is high and peaked ; keeping this broad on your star-
board bow, steer to the northward of a deep bay where the land breaks
off, and you will soon perceive the Island of Pajaros, which is at the
entrance, or facing Guaymas. The water is deep all along the Island of
218 APPENDIX.
Pajaros, that is to say four fathoms, so close as to throw a biscuit oil
shore.
A large ship will have to anchor soon after passing Pajaros ; that is,
abreast the Morro, in five fathoms. A small ship can anchor inside the
Isles of Ardilla and Alrnagre, and in four and three and a half fathoms,
just inside them; and in three fathoms, as far in as the point off the town.
You may go close to either of the Isles Ardilla or Almagre, in three and
three and a half fathoms.
Fresh beef and vegetables are to be obtained here, but the price depends
greatly on the season of the year. In August, when the Spy was there,
it was a bad time of the year, being the hottest season ; the thermometer
averaging 98° in the shade (Farht.), when the country is very dry, and
there is no herbage for cattle, which makes it difficult to obtain, and
higher in price. Spy paid eight dollars a quintal for it, and the same for
vegetables ; but in October I am told it is much lower. There is also
very good flour to be obtained here, between July and March, that is, all
the end and beginning of the year; and with little difficulty (chiefly
depending on time) very good biscuit can be made. In August this-
article is also scarce, and dear in comparison, because the new batch of
flour is just coming in, and the difficulty of transportation from the interior
is very great, owing to no herbage for the mules. I contracted for 640
quintals of biscuit for H. M. ships Constance and Spy, at 10 dollars the
quintal, to be delivered at the contractor's house, and bags found by
purchaser. Flour at this time was sixteen dollars the carga, or 300 Ibs.
But I am told in September and October it will fall to nine dollars the
carga, when biscuits will be proportionably cheaper. Water is very diffi-
cult to be got ; it is to be obtained by sending about four miles for it, or
it can be purchased ; but owing to its having to be brought in on mules
or in carts, the price is very high. I wanted 12 tons, which I found
could not be obtained for less than SO dollars, which would be nearly
10 shillings a ton; I therefore weighed, August 10th, and proceeded to
Moleje Bay." Captain Hamilton speaks of this place, but gives no
information for making it.
" Conception Point is difficult to make out, when you have about a dozen
of the same kind within a few miles of each other. However, the best
marks I can give are some table-land which is very remarkable, and is
rather to the right of Moleje village. Keep this about two points on your
starboard bow, and you may stand in, until you discover some sandy islets
which are off a point called Punta Ynes. When you are east and west
with them, you will be distant from them a,bout three miles. After pass-
ing these islets, then steer S. and S.S.W., until you make out the Pyramid
Rock, spoken of by Captain Hamilton. This rock is named Sombrerito,
or Little Hat. I thiuk it bad to call it Pyramid Rock, as there is a point
APPENDIX. 219
which, in standing in, may be easily mistaken for it, resembling also
a pyramid ; but the rock is a pyramid fixed on a round pedestal like
a fort. Another good way of making out this place is, when the wind
is fair, to keep Tortuga Island about 20 miles (?) distant, bearing about
N.W,, and steer in S.E., till you make out the sandy islets, and proceed
as above. There is a passage between the islets and the main land for
small vessels, but, though very inviting, should not be attempted. I tried
it, but getting into two and a half fathoms, I put about as quick as
possible. My anchorage marks in Moleje Bay were as follow, in five
fathoms :— Point Conception, N. 84° E. ; Tortuga Isle, N. 4° W.; Lobos
Isle, N. 2°E.; Sombrerito, S. 67° W. (Pyramid Rock of Captain Hamil-
ton) ; Equipalito, S. 22° W. (Rock on south side of entrance to the river) ;
and Punta San Ynes, N. 10° W.
This is very close in, but I wished to facilitate the watering : about
half a mile further to the northward, in eight fathoms, is a very good
berth. In going into the bay after making out the Sombrerito, if you
wish to go close in, take care not to bring the Sombrerito at all on your
starboard bow ; that is, do not open the mouth of the river, as, by sounding,
I discovered a rock with only one fathom on it ; it is on a sand-bank with
three fathoms all round it, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore;
but the rock itself has only one fathom. It lies with the entrance of the
river open, directly between the Sombrerito and the Equipalito rocks
distant from half to one mile off shore. I am surprised Captain Hamilton
has not mentioned it, for I must have gone very close to it, in rounding
my vessel to. The report of the facility of watering is very delusive and
uncertain.
In the first place I cannot think it possible to water out of the river, as it
is salt for at least two or two and a half miles, and a great portion of the
time, boats could not possibly get up so far. I was there, fortunately,
when the moon was nearly full, and the water was only low between
eleven at night and four in the morning, so that I was enabled to water
about 18 hours out of 24, and though I had but one small boat (23-feet
cutter), I managed to get 12 tons in two days. She had to go one and
a half mile up the river, to the house of Joseph Padras, and the casks
were rolled about 100 yards to a small stream in his garden ; with a
force pump it might be obtained without running the casks. The water
is delicious to drink at the stream, but it is so very low, and our water,
after being a day or two on board, became so black, and smelt so strong
of decayed vegetable matter, that, though it improved by keeping, it
served chiefly for cooking and washing.
In going up the river, in boats, keep close to the Sombrerito, and keep
the starboard shore on board, till you are a mile or one and a quarter
up the river, when you will encounter a sand-bank in the centre of the
220 APPENDIX.
river, and must keep over on the port shore to clear it. Abreast this
sand-bank is the Rancho of Jose Padra. At the time I visited this place,
in August, owing to the dryness of the season, and the want of fodder,
there was no beef or vegetables to be procured. The bay is open to the
north-east winds, and there is no shelter from the sea, which rolls in
heavily ; but with all other winds I think any man-of-war could get out,
if she did not leave it too late, till the sea was too heavy, as there is
plenty of room for beating.
The passage from Quay mas to Moleje Bay can be easily done in 20
hours. I left Moleje again on the 14th, and arrived at Guaymas on the
16th, being 36 hours. On the 26th of August I sailed from Guaymas
for Mazatlan, where I arrived on the 3rd of September, in eight days.
This, at this season of the year, is considered very fair, as south-easterly
winds and calms prevail. I kept over, by advice, on the western
shore, and passed inside of Catalon Island ; but I think the more
you can keep in mid-channel the better. We experienced little or
no currents, but the wind was very light, and the weather fine all
the way.
On the 30th and 31st of August we had an easterly current, about
14' per diem. We anchored off Mazatlan, about 4' off Creston, on the
following bearings, 23 fathoms water : — Creston Island, N.N.E. J E. ;
Rock, N.E. J E. ; Vienado, N.N.W. ; and Town, N. by E. J E. This
is a very good berth for a large ship like the Constance, but on the 8th
I went about I V further in, with the following bearings, in 22 fathoms
water :— Creston, N.N.E. J E. ; Town, N. by E. \ E. ; and Rock,
N.E. J E. This is a very good berth for a small vessel, and quite far
enough off for safety, and more convenient when you have occasionally to
communicate with the shore, with only one boat fit for the purpose.
Here I lay till the 23rd of September: during the whole time we
experienced light winds, and generally fine weather. The nights were
always and invariably attended with heavy thunder, and very vivid
lightning, and generally heavy rain with an occasional squall.
On the morning of the 19th we experienced a very heavy squall,
which lasted for about two or three hours, and the water regularly boiling,
which, for the time, made me imagine that it was the commencement of
a very heavy cordenazo ; but in four hours it had passed off, and was
quite fine. As far as I could judge, the weather was not worse than you
would meet with anywhere at certain seasons, but the rolling your boats
into the water every now and then is the natural consequence of being
anchored three or four miles off the land, in the open sea where the
current at times keeps the ship swung across the wind.
On the 23rd, the barometer being very low all day, the moon being
near the full, and the sun near the Equinox, it was deemed advisable to
APPENDIX.
weigh, but we experienced nothing more than very terrific lightning and
thunder, with heavy rain.
On the £6th, I weighed for Guaymas again. During this passage, of
seven days, we had very light winds, and chiefly from the north-west.
On the 2nd October, we experienced a very heavy long rolling swell,
from the south-east, which lasted two days. It was subsequently
accounted for by being informed that on that day, at Mazatlan and San
Bias, it blew a very heavy gale of wind ; but in the gulf we had no wind
but only the swell.
We arrived on the 4th of October, and sailed on the 6th for Mazatlan,
where we arrived on the 13th, in seven days. During most of this
passage, the winds were very light and variable, and I kept about the
mid- channel. The last three days, though the wind was from south-east
and south-west, the current ran to the southward, from half a mile an
hour. I anchored outside Creston, about two miles at first, but requiring
about 28 tons of water, and seeing two merchant-ships inside, I weighed
on the 16th, and ran in also.
Anchorage marks : — Town, N. by "W. | W. ; Creston, N.W. by
W. i W. ; Outer Rock, S. J E. At this season it is better not to
anchor nearer Creston, in case of blowing you have room to drag." —
Nautical Magazine, 1848.
222
APPENDIX.
PASSAGES TO AND FROM
VARIOUS PORTS IN THE PACIFIC.
THE following remarks on passages to and from various ports on the
Coast of Western America, and in the Pacific, are by Captain
Beechey, R.N. :—
" KOTZEBUE SOUND TO CALIFORNIA.— These passages were
made from October 14th to 7th November, 1826, and October 6th to
29th, 1827, when north-westerly winds prevail, and consequently at a
favourable time for getting to the southward. In both years they occu-
pied exactly 23 days ; and it is further remarkable, that in each, the
Alentian Islands were passed on the ninth day after our departure. The
route pursued by the Blossom was to the westward of King's Island, and
between St. Lawrence Island and the mainland of America, and thence,
within sight of St. Paul's and St. George's Islands, to the Strait of
Oonemak.
To the eastward of King's Island the soundings are very irregular,
varying from nine to six fathoms ; and as at the season above mentioned
the weather appears to be generally bad, it is advisable to go to the
westward of the island, where the water is deep. Between St. Lawrence
Island and the continent of America there is a bank with 1 1 fathoms
water upon it. If, on approaching it in foggy weather, it be doubtful,
from the shoaling of the water, whether it be not the island that is the
occasion of the decrease of soundings, haul over to the American shore,
and the water will deepen. To the southward of St. Lawrence it is
necessary only to mention the islands of St. Paul and St. George, which
apparently may be safely approached within four or five miles ; but I
could not get near them in either year to ascertain what dangers lie close
off the shore.
I should recommend the passage being always made to the eastward
of these islands, as between them and Oonemak there is a strong current
from Bristol Bay, which in 1827 drifted the Blossom 35 miles to the S.W.
in the course of the day. The Strait of Oonemak, lying between the
APPENDIX. 223
Islands of Oonemak and Coogalga, appears at present to be the safest
opening to the Pacific from Kamschatka Sea. The Aleutian Islands in
the autumn appear to be enveloped in fog about half-way down, and to
have a region of mist lying to windward of the archipelago, which makes
it necessary for a ship to be certain of her position, before she attempts
any of the channels as she might be led down so close upon the land in
the fog, that she would not have room to rectify a mistake, should she
unhappily incur any, which is very likely to happen, from the irregularity
and velocity of the currents about the islands. Under these circum-
stances I should recommend making the north-west end of Oonemak,
and afterwards keeping along the coast of that island to the southward.
As this island lies 40 miles to the northward of the other islands of the
chain, Amnak excepted, which is three degrees to the westward, it cannot
be mistaken, unless the reckoning of the ship is very incorrect indeed.
And by so doing, in the event of not liking to attempt the passage, a
vessel will still be far enough to windward, supposing the breeze to be
from the northward, to weather the other islands of the chain ; and if
from the westward, she may reach into Bristol Bay.
We had no opportunity of seeing the summits of either Oonemak or
Alaska, which, when clear, are good guides for the strait ; but when the
low land of the former can be seen, the south-west point of Oonemak
may be known by a pointed rock situated near the base of a remarkable
wedge-shaped cliff, conspicuous from the northward and north-westward.
The narrowest part of the strait is between this rock and Coogalga Island,
and the distance exactly nine and a half miles, in a S. 1° 30' E. (true)
direction. In a line between these, at the distance of four miles from the
rock, there are soundings in 30 fathoms, and I understand that if neces-
sary there is anchorage close under Oonemak.
Coogalga Island is about four miles in length, and may be known by a
remarkable peak near its N.E. extremity, in lat. 54° 16' 52" N. and long.
164° 47' 6" W. The variation off it is 20° 50' E.
From the Aleutian Islands to San Francisco we steered nearly a direct
course, with winds generally from N.W. and W., and made Punta de los
Reyes on the 3rd November. In this passage the currents were variable.
From Beering's Strait to the Aleutian Islands they prevailed to the west-
ward, and near the islands ran strong, but afterwards they continued be-
tween S.E. and S.W. On our arrival off California, the whole amount, in
1826, was S. 89° W., sixty-four miles ; andin 1827, S. 26° W., forty miles.
MONTEREY TO WOAHOO, SANDWICH ISLANDS. — This
passage (January 5th to 25th, 1827,) was begun at a period when the north-
west and westerly winds are proverbially prevalent upon the coast of
New Albion, and extend a considerable distance to the westward.
We sailed from the Bay of Monterey on the 5th January, and im-
APPENDIX.
mediately took a northerly wind, which carried us into the trades ; and we
arrived off Mowee on the twentieth day. Our passage might have been
considerably shorter, had we not taken a circuitous route in search of
some islands reported to lie to the southward, and had sail been carried
throughout the 24 hours, instead of hauling to the wind as soon as it was
dusk, to maintain our position during the night, that nothing might be
passed unseen within the limit of our horizon.
As we left the extra-tropical latitudes, the atmosphere gradually be-
came more hazy and humid, the clouds increased, and in 18° N. we had
some showers of rain. On the 18th, in lat. 16° 18' N. and long. 136° W.,
we had a very strong trade at N.E., with squally weather, and a long cross
sea from the westward, which was afterwards found to be the effect of a
gale of wind in the parallel of 21° N. ; but which did not reach us.
There was very little current in this passage ; this little generally ran to
the southward and westward, and averaged 3*6 miles a day. The baro-
meter, though so far entered in the tropical latitudes, was perceptibly
affected by the changes of weather, but maintained its horary oscillations.
On my arrival I found that from the 15th to the 21st there had been
very strong gales from the westward at Woahoo, and from S.W.at Owyhee.
This was, no doubt, the cause of the high cross sea we experienced from
the 18th to the 23rd. I found also that the Harbinger, an American
brig which quitted Monterey nine days after the Blossom, was obliged to
lie-to for three days, from the 20th to 23rd January, in a strong gale from
the S.W. She had steered a direct course from the Sandwich Islands,
in which she experienced very variable winds, and, on the whole, had
bad weather, and was only one day less performing the passage than our-
selves : whence I think it fair to conclude that nothing is lost by running
well into the trade. During the winter season, I should recommend
ships gaining the 17th parallel before they shaped a direct course
for the islands. This seems to me to be the best mode to ensure a good
passage and fine weather.
SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN BLAS (MEXICO).— We found no
difficulty (December 6th to 21st) in getting to the southward, the pre-
vailing wind at this season being from the N.W. It is advisable, how-
ever, to stand about 40 or 50 leagues off the coast, to avoid interruptions
from variable winds, which occur near the land. These winds are in
general taken advantage of by vessels bound in the opposite direction to
that of our present course.
The weather throughout this passage was remarkably fine. The wind
was from W.N.W. to N.N.E., until we made Cape San Lucas, when it
veered to E.N.E., and obliged us to pass between the Tres Marias Islands.
This route occasioned the loss of a day, and I should advise any vessel
making the passage to close the land to the northward of Cape San
APPENDIX.
Lucas, provided the wind were in the north-east quarter ; as in addition
to the inconvenience which a shift of wind to the E. would occasion,
there is another arising from a strong current, which generally sets out
of the Gulf of California. From the Cape steer for Isabella Island, and
thence for Piedro de Mer.
Between 33° N. and Cape San Lucas we found a current to the west-
ward, and from the Cape to the Tres Marias to the southward. The whole
effect of current from San Francisco to these islands was S. 58° W., 80 miles.
SAN BLAS TO ACAPULCO AND VALPARAISO.— At this
season (March 8th to May 1st, 1828) north-westerly winds prevail upon
the coast between San Bias and Acapulco, inclining towards the land in
the day, and to the sea in night. We passed four miles to westward of
Corvetena (a small rock, situated N.W. by N., nineteen miles, from Cape
Corrientes,) without having soundings in eighty fathoms. On the 10th
were within sight of the volcano of Colima, 12,003 feet above the sea,
and on the 13th anchored at Acapulco.
At San Bias we heard various opinions upon the best route from
Acapulco to Valparaiso, some being in favour of a passage to the east-
ward of the Gallapagos, by keeping along the land, and carrying the
N.W. wind, and others to the westward, by steering at once out to sea.
We adopted the latter mode of proceeding ; and after light and variable
winds, principally from the eastward, crossed the equator in 99° 40' W.
on the eleventh day of our passage, about two degrees more to the
westward than was intended.
After two days' unsettled weather and hard showers of rain we got the
S.E. trade in 3° S. latitude. It was at first held to the southward, but, as
we proceeded, veered gradually to the eastward, and obliged us to make
a long sweep, in which we went as far to the westward as 108°, and having
brought us into 23° S. and 106° W. it left us. We had afterwards
variable winds and squally weather, and found some difficulty in approach-
ing our destination. At this season very unsettled weather prevails on
the coast of Chili, and storms and heavy rains from the northward are by
no means unfrequent. It appears to me to be advisable at this period to
steer direct for the port, if possible, and to disregard the chances of winds
and of currents near the land. The currents in the first part of this
passage run about seven miles a day to the eastward, but from 8° N. and
98° W. to 19° S. and 108° W. they flowed in a S. 88° W. direction, at
the average rate of about 28 miles per day, and on our arrival at Valpa-
raiso they had drifted the ship S. 87° W., 401 miles, or at the average
rate of 1 1 \ miles a day. Bancroft Ljtrt*.rjr
On account of these strong currents it is desirable to cross the equator
well to the eastward, in about 96° or 97° W., and to pass the latitudes
in which they prevail as quickly as possible, by keeping clean full."
Q
226 APPENDIX.
MONTEREY TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
IT has been mentioned in the course of the work, that the coasts of
Oregon and California are being surveyed by order of the United States
Government. The following sailing directions by Commander W. P.
Mac Arthur, assistant in the survey, are the first results of that
survey : —
" Previous to giving sailing directions for this part of our coast, I
propose to notice the character of the winds, at different seasons, with
their effect upon the sea and currents.
From March to October the prevailing wind along the coast, and for
many miles to the westward, is fresh from the north-west, being freshest
from lOh. A.M. to 2h. P.M., and not unfrequently falling light during the
night. During this season of the year, the north-west wind blows with
almost the regularity of a trade-wind. During the months of August
and September, fogs prevail to a great extent, and impede and endanger
navigation materially.
During the greater part of the year above-mentioned, there were no
heavy gales of wind and little or no rain.
These winds cause a current of about half an knot per hour along the
coast, setting to the southward.
From October to March the wind is variable, both with regard to velo-
city and duration. During this season heavy gales occur from the south-
east, south, and south-west, generally accompanied by protracted rain,
and causing a very heavy sea and swell along the coast.
The current during this season acts generally to the northward, varying
in velocity with the strength of the wind.
These facts being known, it is now to be considered how directions
should he given which would be most useful to navigation.
Sailing vessels bound to the northward from Monterey, or any more
northern port during the summer season, should stand well off-shore, not
too close hauled until about 200 miles from the land, when they will be
beyond the influence of the southerly current, and in a situation to take
advantage of a slant of wind, which frequently occurs from the W.N. W.
They would do well not to approach the land, unless favoured by the
APPENDIX.
winds so as to enable them to lay their course, or nearly so, until up
with the latitude of the destined port.
Steamers should follow the coast from point to point as nearly as
possible, always keeping within 15 miles of the land. They will by this
means shorten the distance, and frequently avoid the strong north-west
wind, as they will often find it quite calm close in with the shore, when
there is a wind to seaward.
Vessels bound to the northward in the winter season should keep as
close along the land as practicable, and take every advantage of all
southerly winds to make latitude. They should always endeavour to
make the land at least 20 or 30 miles to the southward of the destined
harbour.
If bound to the southward keep the coast in sight, and take advan-
tage of either tack upon which the most latitude may be made, always
making the land to the northward of the port in summer, and to the
southward in the winter season.
Bound to San Francisco or Monterey, use every opportunity to observe
for latitude and longitude, so as to know the vessel's position up to the
latest moment, as fogs and haze, preventing observations prevail near the
land. Allow generally for a southerly set of half a mile per hour, until
within about 50 miles of land ; after which, at times, it is not appreciable.
With these precautions vessels may steer boldly on, shaping a course
for the South Farallon, an islet about 250 feet high and a mile long,
having 14 fathoms water, and good holding-ground on the S.E. side.
This islet has been recommended as the site for the outer light of San
Francisco.
On approaching soundings the water becomes of a pale green colour.
Soundings may be had in 60 to 40 fathoms, soft ooze, if approaching
Punta de los Reyes, Below 40 fathoms is near the land, and the surf
should be heard, if haze prevents the land from being seen. If the
soundings are 30 fathoms or under, and the sea smooth, anchor with a
kedge until the land becomes visible, so as to take a compass bearing, as
the position cannot otherwise be relied on.
If up with the South Farallon and night approaching, or there are
appearances of fog, anchor at the Farallon and wait till daylight, when
the morning breeze will carry the vessel to the bar, or pilot-ground ;
course N.E. J E. (by compass), 27 miles.
Inside the Farallones the ' set ' is generally towards the north shore,
but it may be approached without risk, keeping outside of the kelp,
which marks rocks under water.
Duxbury Reef is six miles, W. by N. i N., from Boneta Point, pro-
jecting nearly two miles from the bluff; is well marked by the bluff, and
the sea generally breaks on it.
Q 2
228 APPENDIX.
To ENTER SAN FRANCISCO WITHOUT A PILOT, bring Alcatraz Island
in range with Port Point, and run on. This gives Point Boneta a good
berth, and all dangers on the south shore are plain in sight.
IF BOUND INTO MONTEREY, shape the course for Point Ano Nuevo, in
order to avoid Point Pinos. At Ano Nuevo there is no danger clear of
the shore line. When up with Cape Ano Nuevo, the Point Pinos (the
the only point where the pines reach the sea,) will be clearly seen, and
as the beach rises to view the Town of Monterey also. Give the south
shore a good berth, (most necessary near night, as it generally falls calm,)
and stand on ; anchor nearest to the western shore, a short distance from
the wharf. The holding-ground is good, and with good tackle vessels can
ride at anchor in safety at all seasons of the year.
Going out, make long stretches towards Afio Nuevo, in order to avoid
the ' set ' and swell off Point Pinos.
The Bay of Carmel, south of Point Carmel, must be carefully avoided.
Punta de los Reyes is a high, bold, and very prominent head-land,
visible in clear weather 50 miles.
Between May and October vessels may anchor in Sir Francis Drake's
Bay, but it is not advisable, as a kedge is equally safe to preserve posi-
tion outside in case of fog.
From Punta de los Reyes to Bodega the coast is variable in height, but
clear of danger, and with a commanding breeze may be approached at
pleasure. Should the wind fail when to the northward of Punta de los
Reyes, drop the kedge on reaching 30 fathoms, as the swell will set the
vessel gradually towards the beach.
Bodega Head is known from Punta de los Reyes by having a beacon
on the sea bluff like a block-house, 25 feet square, and near it a staff, on
which there is usually a flag.
Falling in with the land northward of Bodega, do not pass inside of
fixed kelp, as it indicates foul ground. «
From Bodega to Cape Mendocino the coast consists of high, bold cliffs,
with but few indentations ; the dangers are only at the shore line.
Near Cape Mendocino is Blunt's Reef (a small patch of rock under
water), sea generally breaking upon it.
There is a clear channel, two and a half miles in width, between the
reef and the Sugar Loaf Rock at the Cape.
There are no dangers from Cape Mendocino to Trinidad Head ; the
beach may be approached to within one mile, and the anchorage is good
all along the shore in 13 fathoms.
Having passed to the westward of Cape Mendocino, Trinidad Head
will be readily known by referring to the view. Trinidad Head is an
open roadstead, only available from April to November. The southerly
winds of winter render it an unsafe anchorage. To enter, pass between
APPENDIX.
the main round bluff, or headland, and the islet until the town is opened,
when anchor in eight fathoms, good holding-ground. In April and
October anchor well outside, to have room for getting under way if ne-
cessary. Do not pass inside the Turtles, as the ground is broken and
the swell generally heavy.
Captain Ottinger, U. S. Revenue Service, reports three fathoms at low
water on the bar of this harbour; no directions can be given until
surveyed.
North of Trinidad Head do not approach the shore closely, unless the
breeze is steady. The dangers are in plain sight. At night it generally
falls calm, and if calm the swell will set the vessel too near the beach.
Klamath River has 15 feet on the bar at low water. It is not difficult
of entrance with a good breeze, but very difficult to get out of, the cur-
rent running so strong that sailing vessels must come out stern foremost
to be steered. There is a staff on the south side of the river, on which
a white flag, with black ball, is generally hoisted.
Port St. George is a safe anchorage in the summer at the point indi-
cated by the anchor. The reef off Cape St. George consists of rocky
islets. The in-shore channel is good and clear, and shown by the track
of the schooner Ewing. From Pelican Bay, with a breeze, take this
channel.
From Cape St. George to the Toutounis, or Rogue's River, there are
no special dangers. In the summer, vessels may anchor anywhere along
the coast, and there are landing-places south of all the rocky points. The
Toutounis, or Rogue's River has but 10 feet on the bar, is rapid, and
passes between high mountains.
Avoid the kelp, which indicates rocks under water, and do not ap-
proach the shore at night.
Ewing Harbour is a safe anchorage in summer. There is no surf in
the landing cove.
From Cape St. George to Cape Orford, the coast is thickly inhabited
by bands of wild Indians, and care is necessary not to be surprised by
them.
There is a reef of rocky islets off Cape Orford.
From Cape Orford to Cape Arago there is no danger clear of the
beach.
The Kowes River has not yet been examined. The anchorage to the
northward of the bluff is good.
The Umpqua is accessible for steamers, and for small sailing vessels
only, under very favourable circumstances.
When off Cape Arago, in clear weather, the high sand bluffs of the
Umpqua are plainly seen.
The coast from the Umpqua River to the Columbia is generally
APPENDIX.
bordered by a sand beach, with white sand hills, and the interior is
densely wooded with fir or pine. The cliffs, when they occur, are bold^
but afford no shelter for anchoring. In the summer, a vessel may anchor
in 20 fathoms off any of these beaches.
The Alseya, Yaquinna, and Killamook Rivers require further exami-
nation.
In proceeding to the northward in winter, make Killamook Head, and
if the weather renders approach to the bar of the Columbia undesirable,
keep to the southward of Cape Hancock, (Disappointment,) as the cur-
rent is northerly in winter.
There are good pilots in attendance at the mouth of the Columbia,
and the chart of the entrance and bar will give directions for approaching.
The pilots are usually off the south channel, in a small schooner showing
a fly at the main. If not seen, fire your guns.
Cape Hancock (Disappointment) has several trees trimmed up, showing
a ' broom top,' and may be thus known from the cape to the northward
of Shoalwater Bay.
To avoid mistaking Shoalwater Bay for the mouth of the Columbia
(the soundings being similar), make Killamook Head. Never omit this
in winter. There are no dangers off the beach northward of Killamook
Head, and the soundings in approaching it are regular.
NOTE. — Notwithstanding the remarks as to the general fact of the winds
prevailing in the N.W. and N.N.W. quarter during the summer, it is
proper to state that, in the month of June, 1850, the winds to the north-
ward of San Francisco were light from the southward and westward,
with showers north of Mendocino for the whole month, and the coasters
ran to the northward with all steering sails.
It is, however, yet to be demonstrated whether June is a regular period
of southerly breezes.
231
BEARINGS AND DISTANCES, WITH THE VARIATION OF THE
COMPASS, FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MONTEREY, AND
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
POINTS.
True
Bearings.
Variation.
Distance
in Nautical
Miles.
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE SOUTH-
WARD, AS FAR AS MONTEREY,
S 3° E
15° 30' E.
16
Point San Pedro to Point Ano Nuevo . . . u
Ano Nuevo to Santa Cruz
S. 11 E.
S 42 E
22*
20
S 30 E
22
FARALLONES DE LOS FRATLES.
Nan T?
no
S Farallon to N W Farallon «
Nqo \\r
No -wr
OfJ
N W Farallon to Point Reyes
Nil F
N.W Farallon to Point Boneta
N 80 E
31
SKO "p1
39
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE
NORTHWARD.
N 62 W
e i
Point Boneta to N.W. Farallon
S 80 W
O3
01
Point Boneta to S. Farallon
S 62 W
Oft
Point Boneta to Point de los Reyes
N 64 W
30
Point Reyes to Point Fornales . . t
NO -I*/"
19
Point Reyes to Bodega Head
NX W
17
N17 "W"
34
CAPE MENDOCINO TO THE NORTH-
WARD.
Cape Mendocino to Blunt' s Reef
N. 80 W.
16° 30' E.
24
Cape Mendocino to False Cape
N. 8 E.
4
N. 83 E.
16
N. 31 E.
23
False Mendocino to Trinidad Head .....
N. 20 E.
38
Humboldt Bar to Trinidad Head. .
N. 11 E.
16
232
BEARINGS AND DISTANCES, &C. Continued.
POINTS.
True
Bearings.
Variation.
Distance
in Nautical
Miles.
Redding's Rock to the Turtles
S. 11° E.
16° 30' E.
13
Redding's Rock to the Klamath River , .
Redding's Rock to Port St. George
N. 45 E.
N. 20 E.
14
22
Port St. George to Klamath River
S, 16 E.
18° E.
10
Cape St. George to N.W. end of reef
Rogue's River Reef to Cape St. George
N. 43 W.
S. 15 E.
6
38
Ewing Harbour to Rogue's River Reef,
S.W. extremity
S. 16 W
17 J
Ewing Harbour to southern end of Orford
Reef
N. 61 W.
19° E.
9
Cape Orford to southern extremity of Or-
ford Reef
S 37 W
7i
Cape Orford to Coquille River
N 18 E
20
Coquille River to Cape Arago
Cape Arago to Kowes River
N. 3 E.
E 5 N
9O° 4-O' F
14
5
Cape Arago to Umpqua River
N 17 E
18
Umpqua Head to Cape Perpetua
N 14 E
27
Cape Perpetua (S. end) to Alseya River . .
Alseya River to Cape Foulweather
Foulweather to Yaquinna
N. 9 E.
N. 5 W.
N ^ F
28
6£
21
Yaquinna to Cape Lookout
North
17
Cape Lookout to False Killamook
N 5° W
25
False Killamook to Killamook
North
71
Killamook Head to S. bar of Columbia . .
Killamook Head to Cape Hancock (Disap-
pointment) . . . ,
N. 3° W.
N 3 W
'2
17
01 1
•**$
FINIS.
P. P. THOMS, PRINTER, 12, WARWICK SQUARE, LONDON.
CATALOGUE
OF THE
LATEST AND MOST APPROVED
CHARTS, PILOTS, AND NAVIGATION BOOKS ;
SOLD WHOLESALE, EETAIL, AND FOR EXPORTATION,
BY
JAMES IMRAY AND SON,
(Late Blachford and Imray,)
CHART PUBLISHERS,
AND
MANUFACTURERS OF NAUTICAL INSTRUMENTS
No. 102, MINORIES, LONDON.
MAY BE HAD AT EVERY SEAPORT IN THE UNITED KINGDOM, AND NUMEROUS
FOREIGN PORTS.
1854.
ADDRESS.
IN introducing our new Catalogue, we avail ourselves of the opportunity
to express our best thanks to our numerous Correspondents and Nautical
Eriends, for the kind patronage they have hitherto favoured us with ; and
for the very valuable and useful information we are constantly receiving
from them. The high estimation for correctness in which our publications
are held, is chiefly to be attributed to the assistance so received, and we
can assure them that we are always ready and happy to receive sugges-
tions that may tend to the improvement of any of our Works.
At the present time many hydrographical surveys are being carried on,
not only by our own Government, but by the Governments of Foreign
Countries, and it is to be expected that the intelligence and high Nautical
talent of the surveyors, together with the employment of instruments of
an improved character, will materially add to our acquaintance with many
parts of which previously our knowledge was but imperfect. To the
rapid advance of hydrographical science we are not indifferent, and as it
is our object and desire not to be behind with the times, we natter our-
selves that for accuracy and extent of information our several publications
cannot be surpassed. Almost every survey brings to light new discoveries,
and where fresh information renders necessary, improvements are intro-
duced that the publications may continue to bear the high character for
correctness that they have hitherto maintained.
*%* CORRESPONDENTS, in giving orders, are particularly requested to refer
to the present, rather than to any former Catalogue ; and, in addition,
if they write down the number, leading words, and price of each
article, it may prevent mistakes.
James Imray and Sons Catalogue.
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<fec., &c. This publication, embracing the twofold properties of Chart and Map,
will be found equally useful to the mariner, merchant, or man of business : and
is well adapted as an embellishment to a counting-house, cabin, or library.
Price, in sheets, or lined with blue paper, col. 16s. Od.
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Coast of Norfolk, on a large scale. Drawn from the survey of Commanders
Hewett and Washington, R.N. . . 4s. Od.
35. East Coast of ENGLAND and SCOTLAND, from Yarmouth
to Duncansby Head, Cape Wrath, and the Orkneys, with plans of the River
Humber, River Tees, Sunderland Roads, Holy Island, Berwick, and the Firth of
Forth, on three large sheets, with a Book of Directions ... .... 10s. Od.
36. A Chart of the EAST COAST of ENGLAND & SCOTLAND
from Flamborough Head to the Orkneys, drawn from the Surveys made by Com-
manders Slater and Otter, R.N. ; with Plans of the Rivers Tees and Tyne, Fern
and Staple Islands, Hartlepool, and Sunderland, illustrated with some views.
5s. Od.
37. A Chart of the COAL PORTS of YORKSHIRE, DURHAM,
and NORTHUMBERLAND ; with plans on a large scale of the Rivers Tees
and Tyne, the Ports of Sunderland, Hartlepool, Whitby, Scarborough, and
Blyth, with Coquet Island Road. Drawn from the Surveys of Commanders
Hewett, Slater, and Washington, R.N. Illustrated with views of the Light-
houses, &c. .... .... .... 5s. Od.
38. A Chart of the RIVER TEES and HARTLEPOOL BAY,
with an enlarged plan of the Port of Hartlepool, and views of all the Light Bea-
cons. Drawn from the late Sui'vey .... .... 3s. Od.
39. The FIRTHS of FORTH and TAY, on a very large scale, with
plans of the River Forth from Grangemouth to Stirling, of the River Tay to
Dundee, Harbours of Leith, Grangemouth, Burntisland, Dunbar, Elie, Kirkaldy,
and Charleston. This Chart contains many valuable remarks on the Tides and
Currents, and has coloured drawings of the tidal signals at Leith, Granton, and
Dundee. Compiled principally from the late Admiralty surveys. Accompanied
with a Book of Sailing Directions .... 5s. 6d.
40. The NORTH COAST OF SCOTLAND, from the Pentland
Frith to the Butt of the Lewis, on a large scale, being a continuation of No. 43,
following, and particularly useful to vessels going North-about .... 4s. 6d.
41. The ORKNEY ISLANDS, including the Coast from Duncansby
Head to Cape Wrath, on a large scale, of one inch to a mile, showing the vari-
ations, setting of the Tides, with their velocity, and their rise and fall at spring
and neap ; together with all the tracks between the different islands ; much
improved by Mr. Porteus, Pilot to the North Sea squadron. (Blaohford's
Edition) .... 6s. 6d.
JMinories, London .
42. The SHETLAND ISLANDS, on a large scale, containing
particular plans of Fair Island, Valey Sound, Lerwick Harbour, and Balta Sound.
(Blachford's Edition) .... 6s. 6d.
43. The LEWIS'S, or WEST COAST and ISLANDS of SCOT-
LAND, from Cape Wrath to the Mull of Cantire, and part of Ireland, on a large
scale, improved from the late surveys of Mr. M'Kenzie and Captain Huddart,
accompanied with a Book of Directions .... .... 8s. 6d.
The North Sea, Coasts of Holland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, and Greenland-
44. A Chart of the NORTH SEA, on two large sheets, from the
Strait of Dover to the Scaw, with the Coast of Norway to Bergen, and the
opposite Coasts of England and Scotland to the Orkneys. In this Chart the
banks have been laid down from the most recent observations ; it has been com.
piled with great care and labour, and will be found to aiford much valuable
information ; accompanied with a Book of Directions .... 8s. Od.
45 A Chart of the NORTH SEA, on one large sheet, extending from
the Island of Jersey to Bergen in Norway, the Shetland and Orkney Islands
&c., with a particular plan of Christiana Fiord .... .... 4s. Od]
46. The COASTS of ENGLAND and HOLLAND, from Dungeness
to Flamborough Head on the English side, with those of France, Holland, &c.,
from Calais to Hamburgh ; also particular plans of the Flemish Banks, and of the
River Scheldt 10s. Gd.
47. The NORTH COAST of HOLLAND from the Texel to Hamburg
showing the Entrances to the Eivers Elbe, Weser, Ems, Jahde, and Hever,
Drawn from the latest surveys, and much improved by the introduction of
descriptive notes, &c., &c. .... .... .... .... 6s. Od.
48. The RIVERS EMS, WESER, ELBE, and HEVER, being one
sheet of the above chart .... .... .... Os. Od.
49. A Chart of the SLEEVE, extending from Christiana Fiord to
Gottenburg, on a large scale .... .... .... .... 5s. Od.
50. Chart of the CATTEGAT, SOUND, and BELTS, with plans
on a large scale of the Sound and Grounds, Little Middle Ground, part of the
Great Belt, Lamsbacka Fiord, and Wcederoe Anchorage. Drawn from the most
recent Danish and Swedish surveys, accompanied with a Book of Sailing
Directions ..... 8s. 6d.
51. A Chart of the SOUND and GROUNDS, on a large scale,
with plans of Drogden and the Harbour of Elsineur, illustrated with views of
the principal Churches, the Observatory, and other objects in Copenhagen,
deduced from the most recent surveys .... 5s. Od.
52. The BALTIC, or EAST SEA, on a very large scale, showing
the navigation from the Sound to the Gulf of Finland, with plans of the Harbours
of Dantzic, Memel, and Eartholms, Stettin, Hano Bay, Roger-wick, Kevel Roads,
Riga, &c., with views and descriptions of the principal Lighthouses and Beacons.
Drawn from the latest surveys made by order of the Governments of Prussia,
Sweden, Denmark, and Russia, accompanied with a Book of Directions 8s. 6d.
53. The BALTIC SEA and GULF of BOTHNIA, from the Sound
of Stockholm and Dagerort, including particular plans of the River Dwina to
Riga, the Harbour of Memel, and the Eartholms, with views of the Headlands
and Leading-marks,deducedfrom the latest Russian, Danish, and Swedish surveys,
accompanied with a Book of Sailing Directions. (Blachford's edition) 8s. 6d.
James Imray and Sons Cataloyue,
54. The GULF of FINLAND, copied from the recent Russian and
Swedish surveys, extending from the Island of Dago to St. Petersburg, contain-
ing particular plans of Rogerwick or Port Baltic, Eevel, Cronstadt, Wiborg, and
Biorka Sound, Frederickshavn, and Lovisa ; views of Headlands, Light-houses,
&c., with a Book of Directions .... .... . 8s. 6d.
55. The COAST of NORWAY and WHITE SEA, on a very large
scale. This chart is drawn from the late Norwegian and Eussian surveys ; and
shows the whole navigation from the British Isles to Archangel It contains
plans of the vicinity of Hammerfest, the Port of Drontheim, and the bay of
Archangel, and is illustrated with several views of the coast. Accompanied with
a Book of Directions .... .... lOs. 6d.
This Chart and No. 57 following (the White Sea), will show the navigation to Archangel on a
very large scale
56. The COAST of NORWAY and WHITE SEA, from England
to Archangel, and Onega, with particular plans of Hammerfest, Pushlacta, Bay
of Sweetnose, and Archangel Bay. (Blachford's edition) .... 8s. Od.
57. A Large Chart Qf the WHITE SEA, with particular plans of
Pushlacta, Archangel Bay, the Port of Hammerfest in Qualoe Island, and the
Coast of Lapland, from the North Cape to the Entrance of the White Sea ;
accompanied with a Book of Directions .... .... 8s. Od.
58. The NORTHERN SEAS, with the discoveries of Captains Parry
and Scoresby, intended for the Greenland and Baffin's Bay Fisheries, including
plans of Disco Island, Fair Haven, on the Coast of Spitzbergen, Magdalena Bay,
and Hambro' Cove, with Map of the Polar Regions, and a particular Chart of the
White Sea to Archangel .... .... 8s. Od.
France, Spain, Portugal, Mediterranean Sea, Coasts of Africa, and Islands Adjacant.
59. The WEST Coasts of FRANCE, SPAIN and PORTUGAL,
and part of the St. George's and English Channels, showing the entire navigation
from Liverpool and Cork to the Strait of Gibraltar ; with plans on a large scale
of Swansea, Passage, Vigo, St. Ube's, San Lucar, and Bilbao Harbours ; the
Rivers Gironde, Tagus, Douro, &c., accompanied with a Book of Directions
10s. Od.
60. Two Sheets of the above Chart, extending from Liverpool and
Galway to Bordeaux, Santander and Vigo Bay, with a plan of Swansea Bay,
without Directions .... .... 7s. 6d.
61. The BAY of BISCAY, on a very large scale, drawn from the
recent surveys made by order of the French Government, with plans of the
Harbours of Brest, Douarnenez Passage, St. Sebastian, Santona, Santander,
Vares or Barquero, Vivero, Cedeira, Bilbao, Ferrol, &c., the Rivers Loire and
Gironde, Basque Roads, &c., accompanied with a Book of Directions 8s. Od.
62. The COASTS of SPAIN and PORTUGAL, extending from
Cape Ortegal to the Strait of Gibraltar ; with plans on a large scale of the Rivers
Tagus and Douro, the Harbours of Ferrol, Corcubion, Vigo, St. Lucar, &c.
Drawn from the late Spanish and Portuguese surveys, and improved by the
introduction of descriptive notes, views of Headlands, &c. Accompanied with a
Book of Sailing Directions 8s. Od.
This Chart and No. 61 preceding (the Bay of Biscay) will show the whole navigation from the
English Channel to Gibraltar on a large scale.
63. The MEDITERRANEAN SEA, on a large scale, with about
30 plans of the Harbours, among which are the following : — Cadiz, Mahon,
Almeria, Malaga, Alicante, Barcelona, Villeranche, Strait of Gibraltar, Cartagena,
Genoa, Hyeres Road, Leghorn, Toulon, Marseilles, Algiers, Strait of Bonifacio,
Gulf of Naples, Palermo, Strait of Messina, Valetta, Smyrna, River Danube,
Alexandria, Cephalonia, Trieste, Patras, &c. Illustrated with numerous views
of the coast, and descriptive notes. Drawn from the late surveys made by order
of the British, French, Austrian, and Russian Governments, by Commanders
Smyth, Copeland, Graves, Monnier, Le Saulnier de Vauhello, Gautier, Beau-
temps-Beaupre, De Hell, A. Bernini, Dortet de Tessan, &c. A large and beau-
tifully engraved Chart, accompanied with a Book of Directions 18s. Od.
Minories, London.
64. The same Chart, without the Book of Directions 16s. Od.
The Chart may also be had in Two Parts, as follows.—
65. GIBRALTAR to SICILY. This Chart will show the whole
navigation between the Coasts of Portugal and Sicily, and contains plans of the
following Harbours, besides numerous views of the coast : — Villefranche, Bar-
celona, Mahon in Minorca, Cadiz, Alicante, Malaga, Almeria, Cartagena, Strait
of Gibraltar, Valetta, Strait of Messina, Palermo, Gulf of Naples, Strait of Boni-
facio, Algiers, Genoa, Hyeres Koad, Leghorn, Toulon, Marseilles. Accompanied
with a Book of Directions .... .... .... .... 9s. Od.
66. ITALY to ALEXANDRIA. This part comprises the navigation
between the Gulf of Venice, Black Sea, and the Levant, and contains plans of
the Harbours of Alexandria, Cephalonia, Trieste, Gulf of Patras, the Channel
between Zante and the Morea, Mouths of the Danube, Odessa, Smyrna, &c. : it
is also illustrated with several views. Accompanied with a Book of Directions
9s. Od.
67. The MEDITERRANEAN SEA, from Gibraltar to the Grecian
Archipelago, being three sheets of the above Chart, No. 63. Accompanied with
a Book of Directions .... .... .... 14s. Od.
68 The MEDITERRANEAN SEA, including the Gulf of Venice,
Archipelago, and the Black Sea, with particular plans of the principal Harbours,
on a large scale, viz. : the Bay of Gibraltar, Marseilles, Leghorn, Trieste, Genoa,
Corfu, Gulf of Smyrna, Alexandria, and the Islands of Malta and Gozo ; com-
piled from the approved surveys of Captain W. H. Smyth, E.N., Visconte Tofino,
and others, accompanied with a Book of Directions (Blachford s edition)
10s. 6d.
69. A CHART of the LEVANT, or Eastern Portion of the
MEDITEEKANEAN SEA, principally designed to exhibit the trade to Alexan-
dria, Beyroot, Iskenderoon or Alexandretta, and Smyrna; embellished with
particular plans of the Harbours of Alexandria, Beyroot, Karagatch, Marmorice,
Smyrna, Tripoli, and the Bay of Acre ; accompanied with a Book of Directions
7s. Od.
70. The ISLAND of SICILY, on a large scale, with plans of the
principal Harbours, viz. : Messina, Syracuse, Augusta, Bay of Palermo, and
Trapani, a new edition, revised and corrected .... 5s. Od.
71. The ARCHIPELAGO, and IONIAN ISLANDS, on a very
large scale, with plans of Marmorice and Karagatch Harbour, Corfu, and Zante
Bays, the Gulf of Smyrna, and Khios Strait, &c., and illustrated with several
views of the coast, drawn chiefly from the late surveys of Commanders W. H.
Smyth, E. Copeland, T. Graves, &c., of the Eoyal Navy. A beautifully engraved
and accurate Chart .... .... .... .... 10s. 6d.
72. The BLACK SEA and SEAS of MARMORA and AZOV,
on a very large scale. This Chart is drawn from the latest surveys, and contains
plans of the Dardanelles and Bosphorus, the Eiver Danube to Galatz, the Ports
,of Odessa, Bourgas, Sinope, Ghelendjik, Anapa, Balaklava, Kustundji, Iniada,
Varna, Soirjouk-kaleh, Yalta, Ourzouf, Sevastopol, Trebizond, the Strait of
Kertche, and Estuary of the Don. Accompanied with a Book of Directions. A
beautifully engraved and elegant Chart 12s. Od.
73. LISBON to SIERRA LEONE, including the Madeiras, Canaries,
and Cape de Verde Islands, with particular plans of Puerto de Naos and Puerto
Cavallo, in the Isle of Lanzarote, Mogadore, Port Praya, in the Island of St.
Jago, the Bay of Portendick, and the Eiver Sierra Leone, on a large scale 8s. 6d.
74. The AZORES, or WESTERN ISLANDS, on a very large scale,
with particular plans of Horta and Pirn Bays, Fayal Channel, St. Michael Island,
Ponta Delgada, Villa Franca Eoad, St. Lourenzo Bay, Villa de Porto, Praya,
Praya in Terceira, Angra Bay, the Forrnigas and Dollabarat Shoals, &c., &c.,
illustrated with numerous views. Drawn principally from the recent survey of
Captain Vidal, E.N. A beautifully engraved and cheap Chart 5s. Od.
1 0 James Imray and Son's Catalogue,
75. The ISLANDS of MADEIRA, PORTO SANTO, and the
Dezertas, with a plan of the Harbour of Funchal, and illustrated with some
views. Drawn from the recent survey of Captain Vidal, E.N 4s. 6d.
76. The CANARY ISLANDS, according to the recent survey of
Captain Vidal and Lieutenant Arlett, of the Koyal Navy, containing enlarged
plans of Santa Cruz, Puerto de la Luz, Arreciffe, Strait of Rio, and Strait of
Bocayna, &c/ Illustrated with some views .... 5s. Od.
77. The CAPE VERDE ISLANDS, on a very large scale, with plans
of Porto Praya, Porto Grande, Mordeira Bay, and English Road, drawn chiefly
from the surveys of Commanders A. T. E. Vidal and W. Mudge of the Royal
Navy .... 5s. Od.
The Atlantic and Southern Oceans, America, West Indies, Coasts of Guayana, Brazil, &c.
78. A Chart of the NORTH ATLANTIC, from Greenland to the
Equator, on a very large scale ; with plans of the Harbours of Funchal and New
York, and illustrated with some views. This Chart contains much valuable
information on the winds and currents, and will be found superior to any
before published . . 8s. Od.
79. The Eastern Sheet of the above, extending to long. 39 deg. "W-,
convenient to those going to the East Indies .... .... 5s. Od.
80. The same extending to the PLATE and the CAPE of GOOD
HOPE, showing the best track for vessels bound to the Brazils and the East
Indies 10s. 6d.
81. The SOUTH ATLANTIC, from the Equator to 65 deg. south
latitude, on a very large scale ; with plans of the Cape of Good Hope, Ascension
and St. Helena Islands, Berkeley Sound and Port Stanley, and illustrated with
some views. Much valuable information on the winds, currents, and temperature
of the water, is embodied in this Chart, and no expense has been spared in pro-
ducing a good publication .... .... .... .... 8s. Od.
NOTE.— This Chart, and the Chart of the North Atlantic, No. 78, will show the whole navi-
gation to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn, and will be found very serviceable, as the
directions of all the currents are delineated.
82. NOVA SCOTIA and BAY of FUNDY, extending from Cape
Breton to Cape Cod, on a very large scale ; with plans of the Gut of Canso,
Halifax, St. John's, Shelbum, and Boston Harbours ; constructed from the
surveys of Mr. Anthony Lockwood, Holland, Des Barres, and others 8s. Od.
83. The Same, with an additional half sheet, extending to Miramichi
and Chaleur Bay .... .... .... .... .... 10s. 6d.
84. A CHART of the ISLAND of NEWFOUNDLAND and
BANKS, and the COAST of LABRADOR, extending to Sandwich Bay, with plans,
on an enlarged scale, of St. John's, Placentia, Burin and Fogo Harbours,
St. Peter's Isle, Great Jervis, Labrador, Eed Bay, Mecklenburgh, and Sophia
Harbours, with York or Chateau Bay. This Chart is well adapted for the
Fishery and Newfoundland Trade, as it is upon a very large scale, and exhibits
the Banks and Soundings ; accompanied with a Book of Directions 10s. 6d.
85. The ISLAND of NEWFOUNDLAND and BANKS, on a
reduced scale, with particular plans of St. John's and Croc Harbours, and
St. Pierre Island 6s. Od.
86. The BANKS and Part of the Island of NEWFOUNDLAND,
compiled principally from the recent surveys made by order of the French
Government. This Chart contains plans of St. John's and St. Pierre Harbours,
and shows the Banks in an accurate manner, on a very large scale, and will be
found extremely useful to those engaged in the Quebec and Montreal Trade
7s. 6d.
Minories, London. 1 1
87. The COAST of LABRADOR, and North Part of the Island
of NEWFOUNDLAND, with plans, on a large scale, of Croc Harbour and the
Strait of Belle Isle. This Chart extends from lat. 48 deg. 30 min. to 55 deg.
30 min. N., and exhibits the Coast of Labrador to that latitude, and will be
found very useful to the Labrador fishermen, and St. Lawrence traders, as,
independent of the plans, it gives the coast on, a large scale 7s. 6d.
88. A General Chart of the GULF and RIVER ST. LAW-
RENCE, Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, and the Island of Newfoundland, with all
its Banks, upon a very large scale, enriched with particular plans of St. John's,
Croc, and St. Pierre Harbours, in Newfoundland, the Harbour of St. John,
New Brunswick, and an enlarged plan of the River St. Lawrence, compiled from
the valuable survey of Captain H. W. Bayfield, R.N. ; accompanied with a Book
of Directions 10s. 6d.
89. The GULP of St. LAWRENCE, on a large scale, with plans of
Gaspe Harbour, Miramichi Bay, Hillsbro' Bay, and the Mingan Islands.
Drawn from the recent surveys of Captain Bayfield. (An accurate and beauti-
fully engraved Chart) 8s. Od.
90. The RIVER St. LAWRENCE, extending from the Island of
Anticosti to Quebec and Montreal, on a very large scale, compiled from the
valuable surveys of Captain H. W. Bayfield, R.N., accompanied with a Book of
Directions 10s. 6d.
91* The COAST of NORTH AMERICA, extending from Halifax,
in Nova Scotia, to the River Chesapeake, and from thence to Baltimore and
t Washington ; taken from the latest and most approved surveys, with enlarged
plans of Patuxent River, the Harbour of New York, and Delaware River ; with
a Book of Directions 10s. Od.
92* The COAST of NORTH AMERICA, from Halifax, in Nova
Scotia, to Cape Hatteras, with plans of the River Delaware, New York, Patuxent
River, and River Chesapeake ; accompanied with a Book of Directions 14s. Od.
98* The COAST of NORTH AMERICA, extending from Baltimore
and Washington to the Gulf or Strait of Florida, including part of the Gulf of
+ Mexico; taken from the latest and most approved surveys, with plans on an
enlarged scale of St. Augustine, Nassau, and St. Mary's River, the Savannah
River, Port Royal, Beaufort, Charleston, and the River Chesapeake; with a
Book of Directions 10s. 6d.
94* The COAST of NORTH 'AMERICA, from New York to
Florida, containing plans, on a large scale, of St. Augustine, Savannah River,
Beaufort, St. Mary's River, Nassau River, Charleston, Port Royal, River Chesa-
peake, and Patuxent River ; accompanied with a Book of Directions 14s. Od.
95* The COAST of the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,
from SAVANNAH to BOSTON, including New York, Philadelphia, &c., taken
from the latest and most approved surveys, with plans of the principal Har-
bours and Rivers, on an enlarged scale, viz. : St. Augustine, Nassau, and
St. Mary's River, the entrance to Savannah River, Charleston Harbour, Port
Royal, the Chesapeake, Patuxent, Harbour of New York, and the River Dela-
ware ; accompanied with a Book of Directions .... .... 14s. Od.
96. The COASTS of BRITISH AMERICA and the UNITED STATES,
being a complete Directory for the Bays, Harbours, Roadsteads, &c. on the East
Coast of North America. Compiled chiefly from the surveys made by order of the
British, French and United States Governments. Intended to accompany the
Charts of the Coast of North America. Price, in cloth 7s. Od.
t These Charts, Nos. 91 and 93, will show the whole Coast of the United States from Halifax,
in Nova Scotia, to Florida.
* These Charts incorporate the surveys made by order of the United States Government, and
are a splendid and complete set, got up at considerable expense, and the greatest care has been
taken in their construction, in order that they should not be inferior to any published.
1 2 James Imray and Son's Catalogue,
97. A GENERAL CHART of the WEST INDIES and COAST
of COLOMBIA, with plans, on a large scale, of the Harbours of Vera Cruz, Port
Royal, Chagres, Limon, and Havanah. Compiled from the latest English,
French, and Spanish surveys, and improved by the introduction of views of the
coast, descriptive notes, <fcc., &c. .... .... .... 10s. 6d.
98. The WEST INDIES and COAST of COLOMBIA DIRECTORY,
a work giving a description of the various harbours, anchoring places, &c., in
the West Indies. Intended to accompany the General Chart of the West
Indies and Coast of Colombia. Price, bound in cloth .... 7s. Od.
99. The GULF of MEXICO, on four large sheets, including plans
of the following Harbours and Bays : — Pensacola Harbour, Mobile Bay,
Mouths of the Mississippi, Vera Cruz, the Anchorage of Anton Lizardo, and
Laguna de Terminos Harbour .... .... .... 10s. 6d.
100. A CHART of the WEST INDIES, from TRINIDAD to the
Gulf of Mexico and Bay of Honduras, showing the Windward Passages, on a
large scale ; with plans of the Harbours of Kingston and Port Royal (Jamaica),
Belize (Honduras), Vera Cruz, and Laguna de Terminos, drawn from the
surveys made by Commanders Owen and Barnet, R.N. ; accompanied with a
Book* of Directions .... 16s. Od.
101. A CHART of the WINDWARD PASSAGES, drawn prin-
cipally from the surveys of Commanders Owen and Barnett, with plans of
Kingston and Port Royal, Balize, Laguna de Terminos, and Vera Cruz Har-
bours ; accompanied with a Book of Directions .... .... 12s. Od.
102. The BAHAMA ISLANDS and BANKS, with the Strait of
Florida and adjacent coasts, with plans, on a large scale, of the principal Har-
bours. Drawn from the late surveys of Commanders Owen and. Barnett, of
the Royal Navy, and the Spanish and United States Coast Surveys. Accom-
panied with a Book of Directions .... .... .... 8s. Od.
103. A CHART of the CARIBBEE ISLANDS, including the
Spanish Main, the Coasts of Guayana, Surinam, Demerara, Berbice, and
Cayenne, with Directions .... .... 8s. 6d.
104. The ISLAND of JAMAICA, with particular plans of Montego
Bay, Port Antonio, Savannah la Mer, Kingston Harbour, and the Bay and
Port of Morant 5s. Od.
105. The ISLAND of CUBA, on a very large scale, with plans of
Havanna, and the principal Harbours, drawn from the recent Spanish surveys,
(a new, beautiful, and accurate chart) .... 5s. Od.
106. The BAY of HONDURAS, on a very large scale, and beau-
tifully engraved, with plans of Balize, and other Harbours. Drawn from the
recent surveys of Commanders Owen and Barnett, of the Royal Navy 7s. Od.
107. The COAST of COLOMBIA and CARIBBEAN SEA,
on three large sheets, with plans of the Harbours of Greytown, Barcelona,
Cumana, Porto Cabello, Santa, Anna, Sabanillo, La Guayra, Chagres, <fec., &c.
Drawn from the late surveys made by order of the British and Spanish Govern-
ments ; accompanied with a Book of Directions .... .... 12s. Od.
108. The NORTH COAST of BRAZIL and GUYANA, extending
from the River Orinoco to Maranham, including plans of the Harbours of
Cayenne, Surinam, B,erbice, Demerara, and Essequibo, with Directions 8s. 6d.
109. The BRAZIL COAST, from the EQUATOR to RIO
JANIERO. Drawn chiefly from the French surveys made by M. Le Baron
Roussin, Capitaine de Vaisseau, &c., &c., and assisted by the remarks of several
experienced Captains trading to the different ports. This Chart is truly
valuable to the Brazil Trade, as, independent of its superior scale, it has par-
ticular plans of all the principal harbours, &c., viz., Maranham, Manoel, Luiz
Bank, River Aracati, Rio Grande, Do Norte, Parahyba Do Norte, Pernambuco,
Maceio, Bahia, or San Salvador, Abrolhos Channel, Bay of Espirito Santo, Port
Frio, and the Harbour of Rio Janeiro accompanied with a Book of Directions
12s. Od.
Minories, London. 13
110. The BRAZIL COAST, from CAPE ERIO to the RIVER
PLATE, from the most recent authorities ; with particular plans of the Har-
bours of Cape Frio, Rio Janiero, Marambia, Santos, Cananea, Paranagua, and
Santa Catherina, with views .... .... .... .... 6s. Od.
111. The RIVER PLATE, on a very large scale, with plans of the
Harbours of Monte Video, Buenos Ayres, the Anchorage off Cape St. Mary,
the Road of Maldonado, Colonia Road, Barrogan Bay, &c., &c. Drawn from
the late surveys made by Commander Sulivan, R.N., those of MM. Duperre,
Belveze, Chevalier, Gueydon, Santi, and Barral, of the French Navy, and the
Spanish Surveys .... .... .... 5s. Od.
112. The East and West Coasts of SOUTH AMERICA, showing
the navigation from the River Plate round Cape Horn to Valparaiso, with plans
on a large scale of Valparaiso and St. Carlos Bays, the Strait of Magalhaen,
&c., &c. Drawn from the surveys of Captains Fitzroy and King, of the Royal
Navy. A beautifully engraved and accurate chart . , . . .... 12s. Od.
113. The WEST COAST of SOUTH AMERICA, from VALPA-
BAISO to TRUXILLO, with plans, on a large scale, of the Harbours of Valpa-
raiso, Papudo, Hqrcon, Quintero, Coquimbo, Attico, Huasco, Hay, Ylo, Arica,
Pisco, and the Chinea Islands, and Callao. Drawn chiefly from the surveys
made bv Captain Fitzroy, RN. Illustrated with some views of the coast
10s. Od.
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Captain Beechey, and Commander Belcher, of the Royal Navy 5s. Od.
116. The COAST of CALIFORNIA, from SAN BLAS to SAN
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veys, the Charts of Vancouver, &c., &c., and much improved by recent obser-
tions made by English and French Naval Officers .... .... 7s. .6d.
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de Fuca Strait, Port Victoria, Nootka Sound, Port St. Juan, Becher and Pedder
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many remarks OB the tidal phenomena, currents, winds, <fcc., &c. 10s. Od.
1 4 James Imray and Son's Catalogue,
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15
132. The NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, extending from the Equator
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PILOTS.
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Indian and Chinese Seas, with those of Australia, and also the Seas between
the British Isles and the Cape of Good Hope, particularly designed for the use
of ships trading to the Cape, Mauritius, Red Sea, Persia, Bombay, Bengal,
Malacca, Bencoolen, Java, Canton, and Australia .... £5 10s. Od.
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING CHAETS.
No. 1. The North Atlantic,
2. The English Channel,
3. The Coasts of France, Spain
and Portugal,
4. The South Atlantic.
5. The Cape of GoodHope,
No. 6. The Mauritius,
7. The Indian and Pacific,
8. The Bay of Bengal,
9. The China Seas,
10. Australia.
135. The complete EAST INDIA PILOT, drawn from the most
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and particular, on a large scale, exhibiting the entire navigation, both out and
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Seas between the British Isles and Cape of Good Hope, particularly designed
for the use of ships trading to the Cape, Isle of France, Red Sea, Persia, Bom-
bay, Bengal, Malacca, Bencoolen, Batavia, Canton, Manilla, Swan River, King
George's Sound, Port Adelaide and Port Jackson, in Australia ; Hobart Town
and Launceston, in Van Diemen's Land ; Bay of Islands, and Port Nicholson,
in New Zealand ; &c., &c. ; half-bound, with Russia backs and corners
£11 11s. Od.
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No. 1. The World,
2. The North Atlantic,
3. The English Channel,
4. The Coasts of France, Spain,
and Portugal,
5. The Azores,
6. Madeira,
7. Cape Verde,
8. The Canaries,
9. The South Atlantic,
10. St. Helena,
11. Ascension,
12. Brazil,
13. Cape Frio,
No. 14. The River Plate,
15. The Cape of Good Hope,
16. The Mauritius,
17. The Indian and Pacific,
18. The Bay of Bengal,
19. The China Seas,
20. Horsburgh's Eastern Passages,
21. The Strait of Sunda,
22. The Strait of Malacca,
23. Coast of China,
24. Australia,
25. The North Pacific,
26. The South Pacific.
16
James Imray and Son's Catalogue,
136. The 'NORTH AMERICA PILOT, complete from England,
comprising all the Coast of America, from the Gulf of Florida to Nova Scotia,
including the Strait of Belleisle, Gulf and River St. LaAvrence, Bay of Fundy,
and the whole of Newfoundland, with the principal Harbours, on a large
scale £± 10s. Od.
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING.
No. 1. The English Channel,
2. The St. George's Channel,
3. West Coast of Ireland,
4. The North Atlantic,
5. The Azores,
No. 6. The Newfoundland Banks,
7. The Gulf of St. Lawrence,
8. The River St. Lawrence,
9. Halifax to the Chesapeake,
10. Baltimore to Florida.
137. The WEST INDIA PILOT, exhibiting the whole Navigation
from England to any part of the West Indies, Coast of Columbia, Bay of
Honduras, and Gulf of Mexico, with plans of the principal Harbours, on a
large scale .... . . , . j£4 10s. Od.
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING.
No. 1. The English Channel,
2. The St. George's Channel,
3. The West Coast of Ireland,
4. The North Atlantic,
5. The Azores,
No. 6. The West Indies,
7. The Coast of Columbia,
8. The Bay of Honduras,
9. Cuba.
138. The WEST
combined
INDIA and NORTH AMERICA
PILOTS
£6 10s. Od.
139. The MEDITERRANEAN PILOT, comprehending the entire
of the Navigation from London to the Coast of Spain, Portugal, the Mediter-
ranean and Black Seas ; including plans of the principal Harbours, Bays,
Roadsteads, and Islands, in the Mediterranean, Gulf of Venice, Archipelago,
Sea of Marmora, and the Levant .... .... .... £4 10s. Od.
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING.
No. 1. The English Channel,
2. The Bay of Biscay,
3. France, Spain, and Portugal,
4. The North Atlantic,
5. The Gut of Gibraltar,
No. 6. The Mediterranean,
7. Sicily,
8. The Archipelago,
9. The Black Sea,
10. The Levant.
140. The CATTEGAT, BALTIC, and GULP of FINLAND
PILOT, extending from London to St. Petersburg!!, with particular plans of
the principal Harbours in those Seas, deduced from the Danish, Swedish, and
Russian surveys, accompanied with the New British and Foreign Coaster's
Guide ... .... £4 Os. Od
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING.
No. 6. Cattegat,
7. Sound and Grounds,
8. The Baltic,
9. The Gulf of Finland.
No. 1. The Thames,
2. Orfordness to Flambro' Head,
3. England and Scotland,
4. The North Sea,
5. Sleeve,
141. The BRAZIL PILOT, extending from England to Cape Horn
and Cape of Good Hope, with the Islands of Madeira, Canary, Cape de Verde,
and the Azores, on a large scale .... .... £4 10s. Od.
CONTAINING THE FOLLOWING.
No. 1. The English Channel,
2. The St. George's Channel,
3. The North Atlantic,
4. The Azores,
5. Madeira,
6. The Canaries,
7. Cape Verdes,
No. 8. The South Atlantic,
9. St. Helena,
10. Ascension,
11. Brazil,
12. Cape Frio,
13. The River Plate.
Minor ies, London. 1 7
142. The ST. GEORGE'S and BRITISH CHANNELS, and
Complete NORTH SEA COASTING- PILOT, containing No. 1, The St.
George's and British Channels, from Liverpool and Dublin to London. — No 2,
The River Thames, with all its entrances, on a large scale ; including the navi-
gation from Ramsgate and Orfordness to London, with a Plan of Harwich Har-
bour.— No. 3. The East Coasts of England, from Orfordness to Flamborough
Head, with Plans of Yarmouth Roads and the River Humber, on a large scale. —
No. 4, The East Coasts of England and Scotland, from Flamborough Head to
the Orkneys ; with Plans on a large scale of the Earn Islands, River Tees,
Berwick and Sunderland Ports, entrance to the River Tyne and Hartlepool Bay.
— No. 5, A general Chart of the North Sea, extending from the Islands of Jersey,
Guernsey, &c., to Bergen in Norway, the Shetland Islands, &c. IGs. Od.
143. The NORTH SEA and COASTING PILOT, containing the
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Coast of England, from Orfordness to Flamborough Head, with Plans of Yar-
mouth Roads and River Humber, on a large scale. — No. 3, The East Coasts of
England and Scotland, from Flamborough Head to the Orkneys ; with Plans on
a large scale of the Farn Islands, River Tees, Berwick and Sunderland Ports,
entrance to the River Tyne and Hartlepool Bay. — No. 4, A general Chart of the
North Sea, extending from the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, &c., to Bergen in
Norway, the Shetland Islands, &c .... .... 12s. Od.
144. The ENGLAND and SCOTLAND PILOT, containing the
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large scale. — No. 2, The East Coast of England, from Orfordness to Flam-
borough Head. — No. 3, The East Coasts of England and Scotland, extending
from Flamborough Head to the Orkneys, with plans, on a large scale of the
Farn Islands, River Tees, Berwick and Sunderland Ports, entrance to the River
Tyne and Hartlepool Bay 10s. Od.
145. The COAL TRADE PILOT, containing the following Charts,
viz . — Xo. 1, The River Thames on a large scale. — No, 2, The East Coast of
England, from Orfordness to Flamborough Head, with plans of Yarmouth
Roads and the River Humber. — No. 3, Chart of the Coal Ports, extending from
Flamborough Head to Coquet Island, containing plans of Sunderland and Har-
tlepool Harbours, the Rivers Tees and Tyne, Scarborough, Whitby, Blythe and
the Coquet Road ; and illustrated with views of the principal lighthouses 9s. Od.
146. The HULL and YARMOUTH PILOT, containing the following
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scale, No. 2. The East Coast of England, from Orfordness to Flamborough
Head, with plans of Yarmouth Roads and the River Humber. — No. 3, A Chart
of Yarmouth and Lowestoft Roads, extending from Covehithe to Wintertori
Ness ; with plans of the Stanford, Hewett, and Cockle Channels 10s. Od.
147. The ENGLAND and HOLLAND PILOT, consisting of four
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ness and Ramsgate to London, with a plan of Harwich Harbour. — No. 2, The
East Coast of England, from Orfordness to Flamborough Head, witli plans of
Yarmouth Roads and River Humber.— No. 3, The Rivers Mil..? and \Veser,
Eyder, Ems, and Hever, including Heligoland.— No. 4, The New General Chart
of the North Sea, showing all the Navigation from Jersey, Guernsey, &c. to
Bergen in Norway .... .... l^s> ^<1.
148. The NORTH SEA and COAST of HOLLAND PILOT,
consisting of five sheets, viz :— No. 1, The River Thames, with all its entrances,
on a large scale. — No. 2, The East Coast of England, from Orfordness to Flam-
borough Head, with plans of Yarmouth Roads and River Humber. — No. 3, The
East Coasts of England and Scotland, from Flamborough Head to the Orkneys,
with plans of the Farn Islands, River Tees, Berwick and Sunderland Ports,
entrance to the River Tyne, and Hartlepool Bay. — No. 4, The Rivers
Elbe, Weser, Eyder, Ems, and Hover, including Heligoland.— -No. 5, The New
General Chart of the North Sea, showing all the, Navigation from Jersey,
Guernsey, &c. to Bergen in Norway 1()S- (^-
c
18 James Immy and Sons Catalogue,
149. The MARITIME FLAGS OF ALL NATIONS, on a large
sheet, richly coloured, 7s. 6d. ; if mounted on cloth and rollers, coloured and
varnished, 15s. ; in book, 15s.
150. The HEAVENS. A Chart delineating the stars from the 1st to
the 4th magnitude, inclusive, constructed principally from the Catalogue of the
Royal Astronomical Society 5s. Od.
NOTE. — The proprietor begs to observe, that the strictest attention is given, by constant re-
vision and correction, to keep the whole of these publications as free from error as it is possible
to make them ; and that he is at all times very thankful for, and prompt in attending to, any
suggestions for their improvement.
NEW PUBLICATIONS.
WORKS BY JAMES GORDON, A,M.
LUNAR AND TIME TABLES,
UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF
THE BOARD OF TRADE, THE TRINITY HOUSE, LLOYD'S, AND THE HONOURABLE
EAST INDIA COMPANY,
Adapted to New, Short, and Accurate Methods for finding the Longitude by Chrono-
meters and Lunar Distances : including Methods of applying Corrections to a
Lunar Distance for the Spheroidal Figure of the Earth, the Apparent Elliptical
Forms of the Sun and Moon, and for the Temperature and Density of the
atmosphere. With an appendix, containing four additional new Lunar Methods,
demonstrations of the Rules, and Mathematical Formulre for constructing the
Tables. To which are added Maps of the Stars, and rules for finding the principal
Heavenly bodies. Approved by the Astronomer Royal, and others. Bound in
Cloth .... .... ........ .... .... 8s. Od.
The Court of Directors of
THE HON. EAST INDIA COMPANY
have been pleased to present Mr. GORDON with the Sum of FIFTY POUNDS, as a
Reward for his work on the LUNARS : and at the same time ordered FIFTY COPIES
for the use of the INDIAN NAVY.
The Lords Commissioners
OF THE ADMIRALTY
have also been pleased to grant a similar Eeward of FIFTY POUNDS.
I.—By the ASTRONOMER-ROYAL.
THE mathematical part, as far as I see, is correct to terms of the second order,
inclusive ; which is the proper limit for Lunar Calculations.
The practical application of the First Method is easy enough. Tt is more accurate
than Mrs. Taylor's method ; and the increase of trouble is so little, that I should
think any good navigator -would prefer it ; / would do so myself.
I am well satisfied with your first method ; and, I think, it may safely be used for
lower altitudes than you have proposed. (Signed) G. B. AIRY.
Note. — The above was written by PROFESSOR AIRY, in 1839, when a specimen of
the Tables was published, extending only to Altitudes of 15°, whereas they now ex-
tend to Altitudes of 7 ° • PROFESSOR A's remark, regarding the presest method being
more accurate than Mrs. Taylor's method, equally applies to the similar methods of
Thomson and others, as they are all founded on the same principles.
Minories, London. 19 i
II.— By Rear- Admiral SIR F. BEAUFORT, Hydrogra-
pher to the Admiralty.
Admiralty, Feb. 6, 1850.
SIR,— I herewith return your book, and have the pleasure of adding, that I have
just made a very favourable report of it to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.
Your Lunar Tables are very superior in merit to Thomson's, and your mode of
computing the Altitudes very concise and convenient.
(Signed) F. BEAUFORT,
Hydrographer to the Admiralty
III.— By CAPTAIN DENHAM, R.N., and F.R.S., one
of the Surveyors to the Admiralty.
United Service Club, Feb. 14, 1850.
HAVING discussed Mr. GORDON'S new Lunar and Time Tables, it is incumbent on
me to respond to his invitation of my opinion respecting them, and which I now do,
as most justly due to him, by thanking him, for myself and brother seamen, for so
lucid and brief a process which his work presents to us for deducing the Longitudes
at Sea. (Signed) H. M. DENHAM, Captain, R.N. and F.R.S.
THE CHARTERER'S GUIDE;
Being a sure guide to Merchants, Shipowners, Shipmasters, Shipbrokers, &c., in
Chartering Ships on correct principles, containing Tables and Rules for finding
the quantity of cargo which a ship can carry, and, consequently, the freight she
•will earn; the rules being founded on the exact proportionate rates of freight,
and not on the London printed rates, which are proved to be, in many cases,
very erroneous. Containing, also, an introduction on Freight, Charterparties,
and Bills of Lading, and a section on Exchange, giving Tables of the various
Weights, Measures, and Moneys, of all the principal kingdoms. With an Appen-
dix containing the Passenger's Act 5s. Od.
The present work is intended to assist parties engaged in Chartering Ships to cal-
culate the rate and amount of freight on correct principles.
If the register tonnage of a vessel denoted the actual capacity of the vessel in
measurement tons of 40 cubic feet, or had any fixed proportion to that capacity, it
would be easy to calculate the quantity of goods, of any specified kind, which the
vessel would carry. But, as the present mode of measuring vessels is defective, the
register tonnage is not a certain guide to ascertain the quantity of cargo which a
vessel can carry, as much depends on the peculiar build of the vessel.
A good carrying vessel will carry one-half more than her register tonnage ; and on
this principle the quantity of cargo may be ascertained, as in Article 59.
The only correct mode of ascertaining the quantity of cargo which a vessel can
carry, is to ascertain practically the quantity of dead weight which the vessel can take
as a complete cargo : say the number of tons of coals. , Also, ascertain practically the
number of measurement goods the vessel can stow ; which will give the contents of
the vessel in tons of 40 cubic feet. With these data, the quantity of any specified
kind of goods which a vessel can take as a complete cargo may be calculated as in
Articles 60, 61, 62, and 63.
The mode of making these calculations by means of Logarithms is given in
Article 64.
In chartering vessels, it is often the case that a certain rate of freight is stated for
a specified kind of goods ; and should the vessel be loaded with any other kind of
goods, the Charterparty stipulates that a proportionate rate of freight will be paid.
It is, therefore, of the utmost importance to the shipowner or shipmaster to know
what the exact proportionate rates of freight of different kinds of goods should be,
in order that he may be certain that he will earn the amount of freight which he
expects. This is found by means of Tables 1, 2, or 3. See Articles 67 and 87.
22 James Imray and Son's Catalogue,
to point out the practical methods of discovering its rate and error ; and here the
Author has effected such improvements in the mode of rating it by equal altitudes,
as to render it the simplest that has yet been offered to the public.
A method is also given of finding the longitude by the Chronometer, without the
assistance of an ephemeris : this is a point of the utmost importance to the Navigator,
but more especially in foreign countries, and other places where the Nautical Almanac
cannot at all times be procured.
In the next place is given a new and concise method of finding the longitude at
sea by Lunar Observations, independently of the moon's horizontal parallax ; this
method is adapted to the distances as now given in the Nautical Almanac. It is, how-
ever, intended for another set of distances to be hereafter computed ; namely, the
distance between the moon's bright limb and the nearest limb of the other object;
by which means the solution of this very important problem is rendered the most
simple that has ever yet been brought into use ; for in the application of it, parallaxes
and semidiameters are dispensed with, these being the elements that render this
part of the computation so very troublesome and perplexing to a beginner, and even
those of larger experience.
FolloAving this, is given a very useful and convenient method of ascertaining the
altitude of the heavenly bodies, at any proposed time, with a description of the Com-
pass, and a method of correcting it by astronomical observations. After this comes a
method of keeping a Journal at sea, in Avhich is given every circumstance that can be
met with by a ship running on a long voyage ; the whole being illustrated by a
sufficient number of Kules and Examples for every purpose to which attention may
be directed.
With reference to the Tables it may be stated, that those which are common, and
have been previously in the hands of the public, are reprinted from the most correct
copies ; but the Tables from 14 to 38, both inclusive, are all new, and calculated by
the Author himself ; and in as far as regards their accuracy, it may be mentioned that
they have all been examined by differences, the proofs of which were compared with
the* originals, first by four different readers, and afterwards by the Author and another
skilful individual, so that it is presumed that few, if any, errors of any consequence
have escaped.
Upon the whole, it is presumed that the work as it now appears, with the Appendix
containing the principles and practice of Great Circle Sailing, together with twenty
additional methods of determining the latitude and the longitude by Lunar Obser-
vations will meet the Mariner's approbation, and prove conducive to his intimate and
extensive acquaintance with the subject of navigation in all its bearings.
GREAT CIRCLE SAILING.
A Treatise on the theory and practice of Great Circle Sailing, comprising the several
cases which require the application of Spherical Trigonometry ; with practical
rules and examples : to which is added an abstract of the formula} and rules, with
outline charts .... .... ... .... 2s. Od.
TRIGONOMETRICAL SURVEYING.
Containing fiill and detailed solutions of all the most important cases of Triangula-
tion that usually occur in the surveying a Country or a Sea Coast ; the principles
herein discussed being of the utmost utility in determining the position of re-
mote and prominent objects, whether on land or at sea. The whole illustrated
by numerous Diagrams, showing the method of constructing and calculating the
several cases and varieties treated of in the work .... 5s. Od.
SPHERICAL TRIGONOMETRY.
Comprising the Stereographic Projection of the Circles of the Sphere ; together with
the construction and calculation of all the cases of Right and Oblique Angled
Sperical Triangles, the calculations being performed by means of Tabular For-
mulae of easy reference and application, deduced from the development of a
Spherical Trahedral figure on a plane. The whole being illustrated by numerous
Diagrams, and particularly adapted to the use of Geographers, Navigators, and
Astronomers .... .... .... .... • • • • 5s. Od.
Minor ies, London. 23
With KEY TO THE EXERCISES .... .... .... 7s. Od.
Comprising Solutions in full, of all the Examples proposed for the learner's Exercises,
under the several cases and varieties into which the subject is divided ; with the
appropriate formula for computing the three varieties of each example, selected
in their order, from the Tables given in the work
SPHERICAL ASTRONOMY.
Comprising the Stereographic Projection of the Sphere, on the Planes of the Six Great
Circles, usually drawn on common Globes, including the meridian, horizon,
equator, ecliptic, and the equinoctial and solstitial colours ; with Tables of for-
mulae and numerous problems and Rules for determining the declinations,
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£ s. d.
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surface of the Sea, from £2 2s. to 440
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Ditto, in Brass Frame, each 0 3 6
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Two-hours' ditto ! ... _0 -5 j
Massey's Log and Directions 4 10
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James Imray and Sons Catalogue
Tape measures, from one pole to six poles in length, divide
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3 for land
&c. 6s. tc
£ s.
0 15
015
d.
0
Q
1 Storm Glasses, or Prognosticators, from 10s. 6d. to
0 14
5
Steel Joint Dividers, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 inch, per dozen, 15s to
1 10
o
Ditto, with Shifting Leg .£1 10s. to
3 0
0
Brass Joint Dividers, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 inch 9s to. .
0 18
Q
Ditto with Shifting Leg, 18s. to
1 16
o
Compasses, with Pen and Pencil Points, and Box Scale, in ca
36
0 4
fi
Ditto, with Steel Joints
0 6
6
0 8
g
Ditto, with Steel Joints
0 10
5
Ditto, and Bow Pen
0 12
Q
Full Set of Steel Joint Instruments, with Bow Pen, Ivory Sea
and Brass Protractor
le, Sector,
1 2
fi
Ditto turned Check Instruments, and Ivory Protractor
1 15
o
Ditto, round shank ditto, with lengthening bar
2 2
o
Ebony Parallel Rules, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24 inch, from li
Two-feet Box Gunter's Scales
5. to ....
0 6
0 2
0
ft
Ditto improved by Don .. .
0 5
Q
Ditto, Sliding Gunter's Scale
0 7
fi
Ten, 12, 15, 18, and 21 inch Globes, in black frames, from £2
Ditto in high mahogany frames, from £4 4s. to
12s. 6d. to
10 10
21 10
0
o
LOG BOOKS
3 Months — plain
6 Ditto ditto
9 Ditto ditto, half-bound
12 Ditto ditto, ditto ..
3 Months — ruled
6 Ditto ditto
9 Ditto ditto, half-bound
12 Ditto ditto, ditto
3 Months— printed
6 Ditto ditto
9 Ditto ditto, half-bound
12 Ditto ditto, ditto
s.
2
3
6
7
3
4
6
7
3
4
7
9
d.
6
6
0
0
0
0
6
6
6
6
6
0
CARGO BOOKS.
Captain's— printed
Mate's ditto
1
1
6
0
JOURNALS.
1 qr. Plain, in marble paper
2 qr. ditto half-bound
1 qr. Ruled faint, in marble paper
2 qr. ditto ditto, half-bound
1 qr. Ruled faint, and. £ s. d., in marble paper
2 qr! ditto ditto, ditto half-bound
1 qr. Printed, one or two hours
2 qr. ditto ditto half-bound
3 qr. ditto ditto ditto
3
1
3
1
4
2
5
7
6
6
6
6
9
0
6
6
0
LOG SLATES.
SIZE IN INCHES. 8 by 6 11 by 7 12 by 8
13 by 9
14 by
10
Very strong, for Ship's use . . 2s. 6d. 3s. 4s.
4s. (id.
5s.
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